Thinking of getting them...anyone have experience with these?.....

Probably not. Modern electronics and ignition systems give very intense sparks and I seriously doubt any extra voltage would make any perceptable difference.

Walt

Call me crazy, but last time I looked, the 1NZ-FE engine has a coil on plug design. So you dont have spark plug wires :doh:

The Nologys ADD wires with larger coilpacks mounted above the intake manifold/fuel rail. I could see giving them a try if they wern't almost 200.00!! But, like I said, I really doubt a difference could be detected.

Walt

Nology works, but I like the SUN Hyper Voltage system better. they have dyno proven results. I've run the voltage on my scion for weeks and its improved mpg and power noticably

the nology does not change you coilpacks. just adds spark wires. i'm debating this mod. in theory adding length between coilpack and sparkplug will lower performance but everyone who's bought them swears that they're better.

and i don't think the hypervoltage will do much.

moved to power hungry....

and i don't think the hypervoltage will do much.

i dynoed it on my VW for 5 whp.

it been dynoed on a volvo for 15 whp and an rx7 for 14 whp...but your right it probably does nothing :tap:

with these motors not much of anything short of f/i does much. lol. i cant justify 188.00 for something that might work well or might just do nothing. i'd rather get the nology wires since i've read rave reviews about them on xa/xb's on here

I have used the Nology on other vehicles all heavily modded and they are awesome...however on 108hp and not hightly modded you probably won't notice much of a difference.....

well i'm modded enough to run 16.0

Guess what: You guys (those seeing/feeling HP gains) are hallucinating. Read this (excerpt derived from research & developmental studies conducted by a REAL performance ignition wire company):

Magnecor Wire Study-

"CAPACITOR" EFFECT WIRES with grounded metal braiding over jacket
The most notable of exaggerated claims for ignition wires are made by Nology, a recent manufacturer of ignition wires promoted as "the only spark plug wires with built-in capacitor." Nology's "HotWires" (called "Plasma Leads" in the UK) consist of unsuppressed solid metal or spiral conductor ignition wires over which braided metal sleeves are partially fitted. The braided metal sleeves are grounded via straps formed from part of the braiding. Insulating covers are fitted over the braided metal sleeves. These wires are well constructed. For whatever reason, Nology specifies that non-resistor spark plugs need to be used with their "HotWires." In a demonstration, the use of resistor plugs nullifies the visual effect of the brighter spark.

Ignition wires with grounded braided metal sleeves over the cable have come and gone all over the world for (at least) the last 30 years, and similar wires were used over 20 years ago by a few car makers to solve cross-firing problems on early fuel injected engines and RFI problems on fiberglass bodied cars — only to find other problems were created. The recent Circle Track Magazine (USA, May, 1996 issue) test showed Nology "HotWires" produced no additional horsepower (the test actually showed a 10 horsepower decrease when compared to stock carbon conductor wires).

The perceived effect a brighter spark, conducted by an ignition wire, encased or partially encased in a braided metal sleeve (shield) grounded to the engine, jumping across a huge free-air gap (which bears no relationship to the spark needed to fire the variable air/fuel mixture under pressure in a combustion chamber) is continually being re-discovered and cleverly demonstrated by marketers who convince themselves there's monetary value in such a bright spark, and all sorts of wild, completely un-provable claims are made for this phenomena.

Like many in the past, Nology cleverly demonstrates a brighter free-air spark containing useless flash-over created by the crude "capacitor" (effect) of this style of wire. In reality, the bright spark has no more useful energy to fire a variable compressed air/fuel mixture than the clean spark you would see in a similar demonstration using any good carbon conductor wire. What is happening in such a demonstration is the coil output is being unnecessarily boosted to additionally supply spark energy that is induced (and wasted) into the grounded braided metal sleeve around the ignition wire's jacket. To test the validity of this statement, ask the demonstrator to disconnect the ground strap and observe just how much energy is sparking to ground.

Claims by Nology of their "HotWires" creating sparks that are "300 times more powerful," reaching temperatures of "100,000 to 150,000 degrees F" (more than enough to melt spark plug electrodes), spark durations of "4 billionths of a second" (spark duration is controlled by the ignition system itself) and currents of "1,000 amperes" magically evolving in "capacitors" allegedly "built-in" to the ignition wires are as ridiculous as the data and the depiction of sparks in photographs used in advertising material and the price asked for these wires! Most stock ignition primaries are regulated to 6 amperes and the most powerful race ignition to no more than 40 amperes at 12,000 RPM.

It is common knowledge amongst automotive electrical engineers that it is unwise to use ignition wires fitted with grounded braided metal sleeves fitted over ignition cable jackets on an automobile engine. This type of ignition wires forces its cable jackets to become an unsuitable dielectric for a crude capacitor (effect) between the conductor and the braided metal sleeves. While the wires function normally when first fitted, the cable jackets soon break down as a dielectric, and progressively more spark energy is induced from the conductors (though the cable jackets) into the grounded metal sleeves, causing the ignition coil to unnecessarily output more energy to fire both the spark plug gaps and the additional energy lost via the braided metal sleeves. Often this situation leads to ignition coil and control unit overload failures. It should be noted that it is dangerous to use these wires if not grounded to the engine, as the grounding straps will be alive with thousands of volts wanting to ground-out to anything (or body) nearby.

Unless you are prepared to accept poorly suppressed ignition wires that fail sooner than any other type of ignition wires and stretch your ignition system to the limit, and have an engine with no electronic management system and/or exhaust emission controls, it's best not to be influenced by the exaggerated claims, and some vested-interest journalists', resellers' and installers' perception an engine has more power after Nology wires are fitted. Often, after replacing deteriorated wires, any new ignition wires make an engine run better.

OTHER DEVICES CLAIMING TO INCREASE SPARKS:
Never be fooled by any device that is fitted between the ignition coil and the distributor, and/or distributor and the spark plugs (sometimes in place of ignition wires) for which claims of increased power, multiple sparks, and better fuel economy are made. These devices have come and gone over the last 50 years, and usually consists of a sealed container in which the spark is forced to jump an additional gap or is partially induced to ground on its way to the spark plug gap. These devices can also be cleverly demonstrated to produce sparks the human eye perceives as being "more powerful." The only "increase" a gullible consumer can expect from these devices is an undesirable increase in load on their vehicle's ignition system.

-------------
Looking for real performance wires? Visit www.magnecor.com to read more technical specifications, product information and application guide.

yeah of course this comes from a biased source. aka magnecore sales rep or magnecore employee.

The recent Circle Track Magazine (USA, May, 1996 issue)
about says it all...

outdated and biased.

The recent Circle Track Magazine (USA, May, 1996 issue)
about says it all...

outdated and biased.Electricity doesn't really get outdated. That article was right on the money though. I have told you guys from day 1 that these Nology wires are crap. Kinda hard to be honestly objective when you spend your hard earned money on snake-oil and such. Wouldn't sound right to tell your buddy you got hosed. Hard to admit to yourself too. So yeah, enjoy your new "horsepower" . :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

The recent Circle Track Magazine (USA, May, 1996 issue)
about says it all...

outdated and biased.
Electricity doesn't really get outdated. That article was right on the money though. I have told you guys from day 1 that these Nology wires are crap. Kinda hard to be honestly objective when you spend your hard earned money on snake-oil and such. Wouldn't sound right to tell your buddy you got hosed. Hard to admit to yourself too. So yeah, enjoy your new "horsepower" . :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
the article was one person trying to persude his point of view. no supporting facts or research articles.
and the kicker was his last paragrapgh about MSD's being useless...
i have dyno proven it to be helpfull
1973 AMC Javelin 304ci +17 hp from MSD...

now, do not read into this as me saying Nology are the best product out there. far from it.
i am just pointing out this author sucks. no facts, no research, all biased and opinionated.

The author did not include a bibliography, but his points are valid withstanding. The last paragraph does not reference MSDs, which are a whole 'nother animal,( and actually DO have a function and work),It was referring to inline resistance and pseudo-capacitance tricks that have been around for 50 years or so. Remember the old JC Whitney catalogs that advertized spark plugs that could "fire in oil"? Nothing but an air gap built into the plug to allow more coil saturation. Any old motocrosser could tell you what to do when your 10 miles from the truck and foul a plug; you lift the spark plug wire about 3/16" away from the plug and more often than not the bike will fire right up. The theory is sound, but the longevity is not. Coils will run much hotter, severely shortening their life, plug electrodes wear much faster, wires break down quicker, etc....The science of electric spark ignition is not that complex and all these ideas that are touted as new and revolutionary are as old as the hills and are not generally used much for a very good reason. Do you think all the car engineers from all the various makes are not well aware of this "superior technological breakthrough" and would not use it if it worked well? Sort of like the 50MPG carburetor? These companies exist simply to prey on the naieve. If a product makes more power than another at a reasonable cost, you can be assured it will find it's way to the racetrack quick, fast, and in a hurry. REAL racers dont use crap like this. They use MSDs, CDIs, magnetos, and powerful coils and low resistance wiring. It's said that fishing lures catch more fishermen than fish. Same with this junk. And as far as proof goes, where's the unbiased proof that this junk DOES work? I have personally never seen any. So is the mindset that something works great as long as the manufacturer says so in clever advertising, until proven that it doesn't? Doesn't sound like a well thought out plan.

here is the reference...

Never be fooled by any device that is fitted between the ignition coil and the distributor, and/or distributor and the spark plugs (sometimes in place of ignition wires) for which claims of increased power, multiple sparks, and better fuel economy are made.
it implies that MSD's do not work

anyways...be informed about what you buy.
thats the real message here.

i have been in the automotive repair and tuning scene for almost 10 years and have never seen a wire or plug make power...unless there was something terribly wrong with the part it replaced!!
The 1NZ-FE has a coil on plug design that is the most efficient setup for almost any engine
deviating from this will not only void your warranty(if u care)
it will cause your coils to work so much harder to overcome the capacitor and cylinder pressure vs. just cylinder pressure
I cannot say these are not worth the money or not

but I will say that those who spend...are gonna defend
no one wants to be the guinea pig-moron

i have been in the automotive repair and tuning scene for almost 10 years and have never seen a wire or plug make power...unless there was something terribly wrong with the part it replaced!!
The 1NZ-FE has a coil on plug design that is the most efficient setup for almost any engine
deviating from this will not only void your warranty(if u care)
it will cause your coils to work so much harder to overcome the capacitor and cylinder pressure vs. just cylinder pressure
I cannot say these are not worth the money or not

but I will say that those who spend...are gonna defend
no one wants to be the guinea pig-moron


I turned wrenches for 20 years before I went back to school for Engineering and I have to agree. Over the years lots of companies have tried lots of tricks and the bottom line is that you can't beat a carbon core resistor wire hooked to a resistor plug.

The so called "Capicitor effect" of shielded wires screws with the timing causing misfire and LOSS of power. I have to admit that if you are building a car for liiks and these will show they look the best. Moot point here as you can't see the wires on a Scion.

Copper core wires will give you a longer life, but if they are close anything feris (stuff with iron in it) they lose energy to inductive capicatence. I don't think anyone even makes these any more I believe Accell was the last company that made them and even they said they sucked.

Carbon Core wires tend to wear out over time, and should be handled as little as possable and should NEVER be bent at sharp angles. Take them out of the box, lay them out and install them then don't touch then until you replace them with the new plugs.

Never use "Build them yourself" wires of any kind unless you have the proper equipment to crimp the ends on, a hydraulic or pneumatic crimper and a proper spark plug wire stripping tool.

When you do install new plugs and wires don't forget to use the silicone sealer that came with them, if you didn't get sealer go back to the store and buy some. If you drive your car on this planet you have to seal the plug boots. The only exception is if you are doing heavy duty drag racing you may not want to seal the boots, if you are drag racing and need to "vent" your boots you will know after your first pass untill then seal the boots.

There is a reason carbon core wires have been around for almost 100 years and all this other crap comes and goes. It is crap that is why.

seal the boots? whats the poing. unless you have massive oil leaks through your valve cover...


on honduhs they produce power. dyno proven on a buddies prelude. but honduhs have a distributer and you aren't adding length of wire between the coil(s) and the plug like the nology scion kits do.

bblhed,TXboxdriver, you guys are right on the money! At last we find some intelligence on this forum. :bow: :bow: :bow: I would put Nology wires right behind the Turbonator on my must-have list, yet I see so many people come on here and post how great they are. Then some other young fellow asks where he can buy a set too! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Not unlike the " I put in irridium plugs and my car runs so much better!!!" To tune a car properly you first must be very objective and learn how to test and evaluate what you have done. The best racers can do this well and some have exceptional mechanics that can do it for them if they cannot. I have a Toyota scan-tool that helps me be very objective and quantify results in real time. I have yet to see any ignition product of any kind out perform the stock setup. If you went back in time 30 years ago, sure ignition systems could be inproved. But todays federally regulated emissions standards for system monitoring allow for 0% missfire PERIOD. If your car misfired 1 single time it would be recorded in the misfire data list and could be reviewed in freeze-frame. If you have a stock ignition system that NEVER EVER misfires (not even once!), how exactly do you improve on that???? If some fuel was being left unburned, the A/F sensor and sub O2 sensor would detect this and this info would be revealed in long and short fuel trim numbers. I only wish more people could understand how these engines actually work and see how foolish some of these claims seem to those that do know better. When someone posts asking if something works or not and the responses are somewhat divided, DO YOUR HOMEWORK and educate yourself to the point that YOU can make a sound decision. Want more power? How about a turbo? Have you ever seen someone post that turbos don't increase HP? Maybe that's because turbos indeed DO increase power and it's fairly easy to evaluate after you install one. If you have to strain yourself to tell if your new mod increased power, it probably wasn't so worthwhile in the first place. Don't fall for hype, hold out for results.

still ssay it worked great on my heavily modded eclipse gsx...

bblhed,TXboxdriver, you guys are right on the money! At last we find some intelligence on this forum. :bow: :bow: :bow: I would put Nology wires right behind the Turbonator on my must-have list, yet I see so many people come on here and post how great they are. Then some other young fellow asks where he can buy a set too! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Not unlike the " I put in irridium plugs and my car runs so much better!!!" To tune a car properly you first must be very objective and learn how to test and evaluate what you have done. The best racers can do this well and some have exceptional mechanics that can do it for them if they cannot. I have a Toyota scan-tool that helps me be very objective and quantify results in real time. I have yet to see any ignition product of any kind out perform the stock setup. If you went back in time 30 years ago, sure ignition systems could be inproved. But todays federally regulated emissions standards for system monitoring allow for 0% missfire PERIOD. If your car misfired 1 single time it would be recorded in the misfire data list and could be reviewed in freeze-frame. If you have a stock ignition system that NEVER EVER misfires (not even once!), how exactly do you improve on that???? If some fuel was being left unburned, the A/F sensor and sub O2 sensor would detect this and this info would be revealed in long and short fuel trim numbers. I only wish more people could understand how these engines actually work and see how foolish some of these claims seem to those that do know better. When someone posts asking if something works or not and the responses are somewhat divided, DO YOUR HOMEWORK and educate yourself to the point that YOU can make a sound decision. Want more power? How about a turbo? Have you ever seen someone post that turbos don't increase HP? Maybe that's because turbos indeed DO increase power and it's fairly easy to evaluate after you install one. If you have to strain yourself to tell if your new mod increased power, it probably wasn't so worthwhile in the first place. Don't fall for hype, hold out for results.
yeah untill the turbo blows this crappy motor to bits. or you de-tune it to be safe and u just got hosed out of 2+thousand dollars for less than 40 hp gain.

seal the boots? whats the poing. unless you have massive oil leaks through your valve cover...

Point is that if you don't seal the boots the will eventualy leach water up into the boot causing misfire, and carbon tracing along the side again causing misfire. Do you realy think all those plug wire companies would spend the money and add the cost of silicone sealer if it didn't work? If you don't believe me look in the boots of any 10 quality sets of plug wires, you will find a glob of silicone in there. Silicone sealer is probably the only improvement to plug wires made in the last 75 years besides better jacketing (also silicone) that has made a diffrence.

If you can't remember having to cary a can of WD-40 in case it rains, or don't know why you would want to cary it or how you would use in the rain, thank silicone jacketd plug wires, and boot seal.

And just how many miles were on that Honda when the wires were swaped? 80K + on the original wires? I don't see anyone saying that they swaped brand new carbon core wires for this crap and saw an improvement. There is a reason for that.

what parts are siliconed together? cuz i've installed many many wire sets and never noticed any and never had mis fires.

and he had 2 or 3 month old 8 mm wires on then swapped to nology wires.

If you look up in the boot on a new set of wires you will see a little white glob in there, that is the silicone that seals the boot to the plug. They are nice enough to put it in there for you at the factory because they know you need it.

The stuff is like silicone you use on your tires, only thicker, NOT "form-a-gasket"!

what parts are siliconed together? cuz i've installed many many wire sets and never noticed any and never had mis fires.

and he had 2 or 3 month old 8 mm wires on then swapped to nology wires. The silicone is dielectric grease and seals out moisture, prevents the boot from seizing to the plug body, and keeps spark form trying to get out of the boot. And you say he had"2 or 3 month old 8mm wires". Were these some aftermarket crap too? The real test would be to try a new set of stock wires and then the Nology, to see the difference then. Did you see the post where I tried to emphasize the importance of RELEVANT, logical testing, and the ability to understand what it tells you? I find it amusing that some of the more vocal "experts" on this subject would not know the most basic of topics such as dielectric grease and its function. Rule #1: educate yourself before trying to educate others.

I find it amusing that some of the more vocal "experts" on this subject would not know the most basic of topics such as dielectric grease and its function. Rule #1: educate yourself before trying to educate others.

Spoken like a man that knows why you used to cary WD-40 and how to use it :clap: :bow:

Hell yeah! :rofl: My first car was a whipped 69 Nova SS396. Hit a puddle at speed and car would conk out! Wash the engine and it would take quite a while to get running again. WD-40 was a life-saver! :rofl:

what parts are siliconed together? cuz i've installed many many wire sets and never noticed any and never had mis fires.

and he had 2 or 3 month old 8 mm wires on then swapped to nology wires. The silicone is dielectric grease and seals out moisture, prevents the boot from seizing to the plug body, and keeps spark form trying to get out of the boot. And you say he had"2 or 3 month old 8mm wires". Were these some aftermarket crap too? The real test would be to try a new set of stock wires and then the Nology, to see the difference then. Did you see the post where I tried to emphasize the importance of RELEVANT, logical testing, and the ability to understand what it tells you? I find it amusing that some of the more vocal "experts" on this subject would not know the most basic of topics such as dielectric grease and its function. Rule #1: educate yourself before trying to educate others.

ah well dielectric grease is a helluva lot different than silicone. at least in my book.

and the wires were 8mm accel spiral core wires. very common in the hot rod/performance car market. not cheap crap capacitor wires as so most of you think.
yes i did see your post about relevent testing. and dyno tuning would be relevent to me. he used to work at a shop with virtually unlimited dyno access
and in case you were implying i was an expert. never have i said such a thing.

Um, dielectric grease is pure silicone to be exact. Relevant testing would be back to back dyno tests with the Accel wires, Nology wires and new stock wires, and then repeat about 5 times or so and average your findings. It would be highly unlikely that the Nology wires would prove to be an improvement. I was not referring to just you on the other comment. I have be "enlightened"by many "experts"on this forum. :rofl: :rofl:

when i think silicone i think the caulking type.
no way to test stock wires , to accel to nology he has since sold the car.

You wouldn't want boobs filled with caulk would you? :rofl: Silicone is a viscous fluid. Thickened, it is the consistency of grease. Silicone sealants have polymers, plasticisers, and hardeners added so it will cure to a rubbery state. Silicone by itself will never dry or harden. (Luckily for many voluptious women!) :rofl:

ha ha ha . lol. true. but fake ones suck 90% of the time anyways. ha ha i'll just look for a naturally vuluptious woman. lol

Back some time ago I went in for the spark plug wire stuff, and I tried them all. Believe me I tried just about every wire set you could imagine. For my money, and I did spend a lot of it on wires you just can't beat a good set of wires from the parts store or even the ones from the dealer.

Even if you do see a few horses from a set of gimic wires, they just wear out too quickly for me. Now I drive 60 miles a day for work, and I'm just not willing to risk sitting on the side of the road. Too many of those so called good plug wires let me down at dark thirty for me to ever trust them again. I would maybe use Accel carbon core basic fitted wires but that is mostly for looks, and I would cary a spair set just in case.

Save your money. and use it for something else that will give you more bang for the buck. Even colored flex loom for the underhood wiring is a better investment. at least you will be able to see it.

eww flex tubing is hideous. lol