sdparks
09-26-2005, 12:18 AM
I ordered the rear lip spoiler for the tC, and just couldn’t convince myself that drilling holes in the hatch as the instructions indicate would add anything to the ease or quality of the install. As I see it, drilling only adds a lot of time and several more opportunities to screw something up. The entire perimeter of the underside of the spoiler has 3M VHB tape on it. This is a structural bonding tape, the kind of stuff that can replace rivets in aircraft. It is more than enough to hold a cosmetic spoiler in place.
This installation method will save you from buying the installation kit, finding and buying the required hole saw, lining up the template in the install kit, all of the drilling, the removal of interior panels required for cleaning up the metal shavings, sealing around the drilled holes, etc.
Tools needed:
This depends on the method you choose. Read through the DIY first and decide how you want to proceed.
Parts needed:
tC lip spoiler
Extra 3M VHB tape (optional)
Parts not needed:
tC lip spoiler installation kit
Here’s what I did:
The spoiler appears to be a rotationally molded thermoplastic part. There are two plastic studs and two threaded metal studs molded into the underside. Obviously, these have to go.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2879.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2880.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2881.jpg
Remove the four circular foam gaskets. You will put these back on later, so stick them to a piece of wax paper to keep the adhesive side clean.
I drilled out the two plastic studs using a large drill bit. There are probably several other good ways to get rid of these.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2883.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2890.jpg
First, I’ll tell you how I removed the studs, and then I’ll tell you how I would try it if I had the opportunity to do it again.
I cut off the metal studs with a cutoff wheel on the Dremel, then ground and sanded the remaining stubs flush. As you can see, this gets messy, so it probably would have been a good idea to put a layer of masking tape over the VHB tape to keep it clean.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2886.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2888.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2891.jpg
The metal studs got quite hot when they were being cut off, hot enough to soften the thermoplastic around the base of the stud, allowing the stud to move around. I had to push the remainder of the stud back down into the spoiler. If I had the chance to do this over, I would try heating the stud with a propane torch (a small butane torch might even be enough) and pulling the entire stud out with pliers. Similarly, it might be possible to heat the plastic studs and scrape them off, or cut them off with a hot knife.
Now, clean everything up, and replace the foam gaskets. They will allow you to place the spoiler on the car without much of the adhesive making contact, so you can make adjustments before engaging all of the tape. You can buy the 3M VHB tape (I had bought some a while back at Target, part number 4011), so you can add more to the spoiler if you don’t feel comfortable with what is already there.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2899.jpg
Now, practice positioning the spoiler before you remove the liner from the tape. You only get one chance once the liner is off, so take the time to become familiar with the fitment.
Getting the spoiler in the correct position is actually easy. The ‘hangey-down' tabs in the back on each end help ensure that the forward-to-back position is correct, so you mostly just need to concentrate on the left-to-right positioning. Practice.
The area on the hatch where the spoiler will be attached must be free of wax, dirt, etc. and be completely dry. I used a tar and wax remover and followed that up with Dawn and hot water, then clean water. The Toyota installation manual for the spoiler recommends a 3M surface prep solvent that certainly works very well.
Pull off all of the tape liner and gently set the spoiler into position on the hatch. Keep a finger on each end of the spoiler so that you can feel the edge of the hatch and keep the spoiler centered as you lower it. The foam should be keeping the tape off of the hatch at this point, except maybe at the very ends. Push the spoiler forward so the hangey-downs touch the back of the hatch, double-check the spacing on each side, take a deep breath, and press down evenly and straight-down.
Press down around the perimeter of the spoiler and make sure the tape makes contact everywhere.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2894.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2902.jpg
This installation method will save you from buying the installation kit, finding and buying the required hole saw, lining up the template in the install kit, all of the drilling, the removal of interior panels required for cleaning up the metal shavings, sealing around the drilled holes, etc.
Tools needed:
This depends on the method you choose. Read through the DIY first and decide how you want to proceed.
Parts needed:
tC lip spoiler
Extra 3M VHB tape (optional)
Parts not needed:
tC lip spoiler installation kit
Here’s what I did:
The spoiler appears to be a rotationally molded thermoplastic part. There are two plastic studs and two threaded metal studs molded into the underside. Obviously, these have to go.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2879.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2880.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2881.jpg
Remove the four circular foam gaskets. You will put these back on later, so stick them to a piece of wax paper to keep the adhesive side clean.
I drilled out the two plastic studs using a large drill bit. There are probably several other good ways to get rid of these.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2883.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2890.jpg
First, I’ll tell you how I removed the studs, and then I’ll tell you how I would try it if I had the opportunity to do it again.
I cut off the metal studs with a cutoff wheel on the Dremel, then ground and sanded the remaining stubs flush. As you can see, this gets messy, so it probably would have been a good idea to put a layer of masking tape over the VHB tape to keep it clean.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2886.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2888.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2891.jpg
The metal studs got quite hot when they were being cut off, hot enough to soften the thermoplastic around the base of the stud, allowing the stud to move around. I had to push the remainder of the stud back down into the spoiler. If I had the chance to do this over, I would try heating the stud with a propane torch (a small butane torch might even be enough) and pulling the entire stud out with pliers. Similarly, it might be possible to heat the plastic studs and scrape them off, or cut them off with a hot knife.
Now, clean everything up, and replace the foam gaskets. They will allow you to place the spoiler on the car without much of the adhesive making contact, so you can make adjustments before engaging all of the tape. You can buy the 3M VHB tape (I had bought some a while back at Target, part number 4011), so you can add more to the spoiler if you don’t feel comfortable with what is already there.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2899.jpg
Now, practice positioning the spoiler before you remove the liner from the tape. You only get one chance once the liner is off, so take the time to become familiar with the fitment.
Getting the spoiler in the correct position is actually easy. The ‘hangey-down' tabs in the back on each end help ensure that the forward-to-back position is correct, so you mostly just need to concentrate on the left-to-right positioning. Practice.
The area on the hatch where the spoiler will be attached must be free of wax, dirt, etc. and be completely dry. I used a tar and wax remover and followed that up with Dawn and hot water, then clean water. The Toyota installation manual for the spoiler recommends a 3M surface prep solvent that certainly works very well.
Pull off all of the tape liner and gently set the spoiler into position on the hatch. Keep a finger on each end of the spoiler so that you can feel the edge of the hatch and keep the spoiler centered as you lower it. The foam should be keeping the tape off of the hatch at this point, except maybe at the very ends. Push the spoiler forward so the hangey-downs touch the back of the hatch, double-check the spacing on each side, take a deep breath, and press down evenly and straight-down.
Press down around the perimeter of the spoiler and make sure the tape makes contact everywhere.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2894.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/lip_spoiler_tc/IMG_2902.jpg