The purpose of a clutch pedal stop is to eliminate any extra clutch pedal travel past the point of clutch disengagement. I found the clutch engagement point in the tC vague and difficult to time. Also, the clutch pedal felt uncomfortably far away when fully depressed. I had a clutch pedal stop in my 325i, liked it, and thought the tC needed one as well. I couldn’t find one for sale, so I made one. Works great, and would be a nice compliment to a short shifter.

Here’s how I made it. You can get everything you need at a hardware or home improvement store, except perhaps the foam and rubber sheet, which I had lying around, and originally ordered from McMaster-Carr.

Parts:
-1” or 1-1/2” long elevator bolt (2” is too long) with ¼”-20 threads
-1/4”-20 nut
-1/4” lockwasher
-1” long 4-40 machine screw
-1/16” adhesive backed foam
-1/16” adhesive backed rubber

Special tools:
-1/4-20 thread tap
-4-40 thread tap

The elevator bolt has a large flat head that will become the new stop. We just need a hole to screw it into.

Have a look under the dash at the stock setup. Remove the existing stop pad. Luckily, there is already a hole that we can use for the stop, and it is even the right size. All it needs is to be threaded.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/clutch_pedal_tc/beforewithnotes.jpg

Tap this unused hole with the ¼”-20 thread tap. Space is tight under there. Try to keep the tap as perpendicular to the face of the hole as possible. I found that a 12-point 7/32” socket fit the tap well enough.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/clutch_pedal_tc/tappinghole.jpg

Here’s the hole with shiny new threads.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/clutch_pedal_tc/tappedhole.jpg

To give the new stop a little cushion, and to prevent the sound of metal-to-metal contact when the pedal hits the stop, cut out a circle from the foam sheet and stick it onto the head of the elevator bolt.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/clutch_pedal_tc/applyingfoamtoelevatorbolt.jpg

Put a nut and lockwasher on the bolt and screw it into the threaded hole. You’ll need to carefully adjust the stop later, but for now screw it all the way in, at least so the stand off is less than ½”. It is shown here with a flat washer, but I changed to a lockwasher later. For an OEM look, use a black oxide coated bolt and grade 8 nut and lockwasher.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/clutch_pedal_tc/boltinstalled.jpg

Now, because the clutch pedal doesn’t move down as far, it doesn’t depress the clutch disengagement switch. This switch ensures that the car can’t be started unless the clutch is disengaged. We need to extend the length of the switch.

Use the 4-40 tap to thread the inside of the switch post. Again, Toyota was nice enough to make the hole the right size, so no predrilling is required.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/clutch_pedal_tc/tappingswitch.jpg

Screw the 4-40 machine screw into the switch post. The length of the screw sticking out of the switch post should be long enough to engage the switch when the pedal is pushed down against the clutch stop, but not so long that it pushes the end of the switch post any deeper than flush with the metal body of the switch.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/clutch_pedal_tc/switchwithscrew.jpg

If you think it looks better, you can put a nylon spacer on the screw after final adjustment.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/clutch_pedal_tc/switchwithspacer.jpg

To prevent noise when the pedal arm contacts the switch, cut out a circle from the rubber sheet and stick it to the backside of the tab that depresses the switch.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/clutch_pedal_tc/applyingrubbertotab.jpg

Proper adjustment of the stop is very important. If the stop is too high, the clutch will never completely disengage, causing clutch wear.

Adjust the stop with the car running and in first gear. Let up slowly on the clutch pedal and see how much travel you have before the clutch begins to engage. Keep the door open because you may be able to hear the clutch beginning to engage before the car starts to move. Adjust the stop out until you have at least ¼” of pedal travel before even the slightest hint of engagement. Give yourself even more extra travel if you tend to let the pedal creep upwards when you are stopped in traffic. When you have the adjustment correct, hold the bolt still and tighten the nut.

Any time you adjust the length of the clutch stop, double check that the length of the screw in the switch post is correct.

Here is the completed installation.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/clutch_pedal_tc/complete.jpg

You may find shifting awkward at first because the clutch begins to engage so soon, but you’ll quickly get used to it.

Ohhhh hang on this is what i was asking about a few weeks back.

So this removes that spare inch of nothingness the clutch pedal has, and also reduces how far it has to travel.

Is it uncomfortable in terms of daily driver, stop-go traffic?

Can you see any issues, with the sort of changing where you "stamp" on the clutch. Not that I drive like that you understand.

Ohhhh hang on this is what i was asking about a few weeks back.

So this removes that spare inch of nothingness the clutch pedal has, and also reduces how far it has to travel.

Is it uncomfortable in terms of daily driver, stop-go traffic?

Can you see any issues, with the sort of changing where you "stamp" on the clutch. Not that I drive like that you understand.

This mod will reduce the extra pedal travel 'below' the point of engagement, but not the extra travel 'above'. If you really have 'nothingness' at the top of the pedal stroke (feels like you're pushing against nothng but a light spring), maybe there is something wrong, like air in the hydraulic circuit.

Once you get used to driving with the stop, it is better in all types of driving. I've driven the car on the track with this mod and it really helps.

Will Add to the tech...

But how do you start the car. You know how the clutch has to be ALL the way in, even past the catch point. So how does that work with the stop?

Read the article :P He shows how to build an extension for clutch engagement sqitch doo-hicky thing-a-ma-jig

Superb!!!! dang fine article and absolutely correct on being a real performance enhancement. Quicker shifts, more acurate clutch engagement, can really help reduce missed shifts which can save you alot of money in the long run, maybe short run as well.

Thanks, just one more thing we have not done yet that is on our list of to do, you just did 75% of the work for us buddy:):)

Rick

wow i love you

hahaha i cant wait to get off work now a new free mod for tc

Aftermarket paart idea: Clutch Stop. Maybe out of a block of plastic or rubber, something more sturdy and fixed, to handle long-term use. Could screw it into that open hole maybe. First one to fab this baby has my money for sure, because I really dislike the slack in the clutch. It feels like 6 inchs between engage/disengage and the floor :(

love free mods.

i did this and all i can say is wow i love it lol one of the best mods i have done on my tc so far lol and it cost me 1.75 in hardware at the ace that is 2 block from my house lol with the trip and the browsing in ace it was still just a 20min project most the time spent at ace lol


thank you so mutch sdparks
:bow: :bow: :bow:


you made my clutch in to a on off switch lol

I did this mod. Nice improvement when shifting! Thank you much sdparks!

I made a booboo tho. Somehow I think i busted the spring on the clutch disengage switch, so now it does not pop out anymore! I was worreid this would cause no-shifts, but I test drove it with no problems. I am curious what exactl does this switch do anyways? It seems like all the functionality is in the clutch pedal assembly but the disengage switch doesn't do much of anything.

I did this mod. Nice improvement when shifting! Thank you much sdparks!

I made a booboo tho. Somehow I think i busted the spring on the clutch disengage switch, so now it does not pop out anymore! I was worreid this would cause no-shifts, but I test drove it with no problems. I am curious what exactl does this switch do anyways? It seems like all the functionality is in the clutch pedal assembly but the disengage switch doesn't do much of anything.

The switch makes sure that you have the clutch disengaged when you start the car so the car doesn't lurch forward if it is in gear. Be careful! Your car now thinks the clutch is always disengaged.

The switch makes sure that you have the clutch disengaged when you start the car so the car doesn't lurch forward if it is in gear. Be careful! Your car now thinks the clutch is always disengaged.

It's funny, I've never driven a car that had this until I drove cars in the states.

In Europe it's assumed that you check it's not in gear, or you press the clutch before you turn the ignition.

I still have the habit that I wiggle the gear stick left and right before turning the key.

It's probably added by car manafacturers to protect them from the "McDonalds Hot Coffee" law suits.

It's probably added by car manafacturers to protect them from the "McDonalds Hot Coffee" law suits.

:rofl:

ok ok no one do this till i figure out wtf happend to my car lol

this morning i smelt some clutch so i took out the washer becouse me bolt was as low as it goes then i started the car and it ran fine

then i got out of work at 5 and my car wouldnt start but the battery is fine so i checked all the fuses and couldnt find any thing poped so i checked the switch for the clutch and it was broken. i tried to take it off but you cant with out a socket wrench. so i decided to try and check the wires for voltage and the power wire has nothing right now...


im a little confused and realy stuck at work lol


its a 1 hour drive home so im not sure what the walk will equate to lol but some of my friends are coming to pick me up


any ideas on how i can fix this any helpe would be grately appreciated or an explination of how this switch works i dont think these to wires are supposed to make contact becouse i tried that and got nothing not eve a spark or poped fuse


hmmmmm.......

ok ok no one do this till i figure out wtf happend to my car lol

this morning i smelt some clutch so i took out the washer becouse me bolt was as low as it goes then i started the car and it ran fine

then i got out of work at 5 and my car wouldnt start but the battery is fine so i checked all the fuses and couldnt find any thing poped so i checked the switch for the clutch and it was broken. i tried to take it off but you cant with out a socket wrench. so i decided to try and check the wires for voltage and the power wire has nothing right now...


im a little confused and realy stuck at work lol


its a 1 hour drive home so im not sure what the walk will equate to lol but some of my friends are coming to pick me up


any ideas on how i can fix this any helpe would be grately appreciated or an explination of how this switch works i dont think these to wires are supposed to make contact becouse i tried that and got nothing not eve a spark or poped fuse


hmmmmm.......

Man, that sucks...

It may be that there is no voltage to the switch unless you are actually trying to start the engine. Did you check the wires while turning the key to the start position? Be sure you are in neutral if you try that.

The switch may be broken if you shortened the length of the stop but didn't shorten the switch extension, which would cause the switch to be pushed in too far.

I have edited the DIY to change the length of the switch extension from 1/2" to whatever it takes to activate the switch properly.

We did our car today and I noticed a slight bit of off angle contact on the switch from the tab that pushes it in. It was not very severe but over time I knew it could lead to extra wear and possibly eventual failure.

I just grabbed one of my big channel locks, vise grips or a cresent wrench would work just fine as well, and bent the tap so it hits flush on the switch, no side load on it now at all, took all of 2 minutes max.

I do not expect any problems:)

Rick

I still haven't noticed any side effects from busting the spring on the disengage switch. The clutch seems fine -- I feel no grinding or friction when shifting. The car turns on just fine. I looked underneath and the switch is pushed in about 1.2 inch further than it should be.

ok i fixed part of it the reason there was no power is becouse the starter fuse popped so i replaced that and cut the 2 wires for the switch and connected them now she starts up almost fine


my cd player doenst turn on

my sunroof wont open

my speedo doesnt work or the speedo on my rsm

my abs light is on

my break light is on

my maint. req. light is on

other then that she is all good im sure these are due to more fuses but ill have to check that tomorrow becosue i need sleep lol i have to wake up in 6 hours

wow does this suck lol

on my way to work this morning my cars voltage was droping and it stalled out after about 40min of driving when the voltage hit 9.3

i had my friend come to help me but that was a 1 hour drive for him so i stood in the cold (accoring to the tc it was 43F) directing cars aroudn mine

then when he got there we jump started the tc and now my break light isnt on my maint req light isnt on my abs light isnt on my spedo works again but now my turn signals dont work


also before the battery died the cel when on and so did the srs air bag light

we checked all the fuses with a test light and they are all find

also my radio still doesnt work


any help would be great im going to try and fix this issue tonight (i hope)

Th eonly possible way your clutch stop could be involved is a damaged switch but it would only be a short to ground or open and not let the car start. It passes 12volts to the #1 pin of the starter relay when the key is turned fully to start position.

So, IF this is related then there is probably a short from the part of symptoms but it is hard to imagine being able to pass enough current through that size wire and cause so many other problems.

Is it possible the harness was damaged or pinched in some way during the process of installing the stop? I would get a mirror and some good lighting and look it over very very carefully. You can also replace all the fuses, etc and get what you can working, start the car or at least on IGN and wiggle everything around under there and see what happens.

There are two main power feeds into the relay/fuse block on the front of it, a big white one, constant power and a smaller blue one if I remember correctly is on when in the IGN position. I have modded my car in that area so much it is hard to relate to one that is mostly stock now.

Either way, sounds like an intermitant short or open, blowing fuses generally means a short, just enoughto load things down and cause problems but not enough to burn up something enough to find it easily.

Just thought of another area to check, in the middle on the back of the R/F block there is a 40 pin connector that feeds into the integration relay, check out that area as well.

Hope this is at least some help!

Rick

Th eonly possible way your clutch stop could be involved is a damaged switch but it would only be a short to ground or open and not let the car start. It passes 12volts to the #1 pin of the starter relay when the key is turned fully to start position.

So, IF this is related then there is probably a short from the part of symptoms but it is hard to imagine being able to pass enough current through that size wire and cause so many other problems.

Is it possible the harness was damaged or pinched in some way during the process of installing the stop? I would get a mirror and some good lighting and look it over very very carefully. You can also replace all the fuses, etc and get what you can working, start the car or at least on IGN and wiggle everything around under there and see what happens.

There are two main power feeds into the relay/fuse block on the front of it, a big white one, constant power and a smaller blue one if I remember correctly is on when in the IGN position. I have modded my car in that area so much it is hard to relate to one that is mostly stock now.

Either way, sounds like an intermitant short or open, blowing fuses generally means a short, just enoughto load things down and cause problems but not enough to burn up something enough to find it easily.

Just thought of another area to check, in the middle on the back of the R/F block there is a 40 pin connector that feeds into the integration relay, check out that area as well.

Hope this is at least some help!

Rick

thanks i tried switching some of the relays earlier when i thought the car was realy messed up and was waiting in the cold i switched both the knon working fan realys with ing. and fi but it still wouldnt start

it starts now so i know that it is neither of these but i still have to dig and find out what is wrong with my other stuff


im going to do alot of digging around in the wireing of the tc tonight if any one has any docs on the wireing thoughs would be help full if you can email them to me if not well i guess scionlife will have some soon brought to you buy me lol

Check your mail in a bit buddy;)

Rick

Check your mail in a bit buddy;)

Rick

i love you :love:


hahaha thanks alot man

Did you get the file? My SUPER FAST CABLE connection is not so fast right now, in fact sucks, got to figure out why, grrrrrrrr.

Rick

i cant check it till i get home sorry


but i sure as hell hope i did lol

...would this work in an xA?

Did you get the file? My SUPER FAST CABLE connection is not so fast right now, in fact sucks, got to figure out why, grrrrrrrr.

Rick


nope didnt get it


can you resend it???

man....I'll be avoiding this mod like the plague until you figure out wtf happened ;)

Sorry to hear you got gremlins on a new car.

man....I'll be avoiding this mod like the plague until you figure out wtf happened ;)

Sorry to hear you got gremlins on a new car.


hahaha new my tc is probly the most abused scratched on this site lol she works hard but i still love her lol she just through a little fit the past couple of days but i worked things out with her :rofl:


i had a fuse blown for the ecu ign. and some how the car still ran lol

but that caused most the issues lol still amazed that it ran all the way home after work
or evne ran at all

but now the voltage stays constant and it runs fine my windows work and my turn signals and well every thing and i dont have to step on my clutch to start my car now



the mod is safe once again i would just take out the switch and strap thoughs to wires together but thats just me








yep im still confused about wtf happend to my car lol and come to think of it this fuse showed that it was fine when i checked it with the multi meeter but i wont argue with sucess lol pluss it looked fried when i took it out

Cool, send me an email directly, will try it that way, big file.

rick@raamaudio.com

OK, big file would not go out, let me know if you got some little ones as attachements:)

Rick

thanks for the right up!! its great. im gonna give this a werl

thanks for the right up!! its great. im gonna give this a werl

remember cut the clutch switch wires lol and just strap them together its not like you need them any ways it should be a force of habit to stop on the clutch by now

hey all...
i found a fix for all those who are worried about breaking the compression switch by extending it. i went to the local home depot today and bought "Magic Sliders". they are 1" in diameter and have double sided sticky tape on the pack. I simpily just stacked the "sliders" bout 4 high (depening on how you have your elevator bolt adjusted) and placed it on the back side of the metal tab that hits the switch. easy as that. as you might have already guessed i had some trouble with extending the switch. so i decided to come up with a much simpiler way to solve the problem. hope this helps some of you.

COOL! Great idea:)

Our clutch stop came in handy autocrossing today:)

Rick

so i've been driving around with this mod in for the whole day and i gotta say... i love it. great feel. faster shifting. who can complain

It's great to hear that several of you are enjoying this mod. The feedback makes the effort of writing it up worthwhile. There have been some good ideas added as well.

Just finished up the mod on the fiance's car. Shifting just feels so much better now. I had a b*tch of a time finding an elevator bolt with as large and flat of a top as the one you used. I ended up using one with a smaller top. Seems to work fine though.

Thanks for the idea.

if you are having troubles with the disengage button, just clip the wires coming from it and wire it up to a push button switch that you can install in your dash. That way there will be no problems. When you start your car all you have to do is hold the button.

or even better you could stick a rubber stopper on the clutch pedal tab, so the button is un-altered

i think imma try this mod shounds likea great idea

dude i cant find a freakin elevator bolt newhere i went to home depot and loews this is ___...

myself, along with three other manual tc's in our club tried this mod yesterday.
I love it! elimanates all that extra nonsense play in the clutch. It took about 10 minutes and cost less than a buck.

Is it possible to do this mod w/out tapping anything?

I don't have and don't know how many ppl might have a tap set. I'd love to get one though, both metric and english. Any idea how much they run?

I'm being lazy, I'll prolly just look it up right after this, but post up a response anyway, maybe someone else can use the info.

Great write up, awesome pix, just the right amount of detail in the step by step... dude you should go pro and work for a magazine!

Is it possible to do this mod w/out tapping anything?

I don't have and don't know how many ppl might have a tap set. I'd love to get one though, both metric and english. Any idea how much they run?

I'm being lazy, I'll prolly just look it up right after this, but post up a response anyway, maybe someone else can use the info.

Great write up, awesome pix, just the right amount of detail in the step by step... dude you should go pro and work for a magazine!


you can get the one you need and turn it with pliers for like $1 or a small set would be about 10 bucks but shop around

reviving an old thread!! but i'm got almost all the supplies for the mod cept for the machine screw 4-40, i've only can find a 3/4 inch long one not a 1 inch, would that be fine???? i went to murreys and hompe depot, but they dont' carry one inch!!

Go to your local Ace, etc, small hardware store chain, most have alol more items than the big stores when it comes to nuts and bolts;)

Not sure if the 3/4" would work or not.

Rick

is there a difference b/w a regular bolt and an elevator bolt because i asked the guyz that worked they're and they don' even know what that means

is there a difference b/w a regular bolt and an elevator bolt because i asked the guyz that worked they're and they don' even know what that means

The elevator bolt has a large flat head, about 1" in diameter. Without the large head, I don't know how much contact the bolt head would make with the pedal arm. You don't want to risk having the pedal arm slip off of the bolt head, because the pedal could get stuck.

The guy who said just put an extra stopper on it has the right idea. I was really bored and tired of extra play (not as much as my tC tho! ) in my Si's clutch, and got to looking. Theres like 1cm of room behind the stock clutch stop and the firewall soooooooo... either sticking a new bolt in or just adhering a few of the feet on is the way to go.

Going to give this a try. my first custom mod. do things like this void the warranty?

watching, and I don't think this will be voiding any warranties.

ignitionr34 wrote:
reviving an old thread!! but i'm got almost all the supplies for the mod cept for the machine screw 4-40, i've only can find a 3/4 inch long one not a 1 inch, would that be fine???? i went to murreys and hompe depot, but they dont' carry one inch!!


I can vouch for the Magic Sliders that Acsilva84 used (Page 2). I did this mod about eight months ago, and it hasn't given me any trobles. The nice thing about them is that they allow for slippage between the Magic Slider and the plastic switch so its not putting any undo lateral stress on it.

Magic Sliders is a good idea makes it much more simpler. I just hope the plastic won't crack after long term use.
So do we heighten the clutch stopper and the disengagement switch by the same amount?

i just did this mod and it's awesome, i only drove my car around for a couple minutes to test it out but it seems great so far. i'll post again tomorrow after i drive to work and back with it.

Can ya show a pix of the magic slider installed in your car? Please? Thanks

I think im gonna try this mod out, i hate the long throw of the clutch pedal..

I did not realize how old this thread was! Anyway, I pulled this mod off right now. But did a few things different. I didnt tap the hole, I just drilled through it to accommodate a larger bolt. I didnt use an elevator bolt either, just found a bolt with a WIDE head and used that. Used two nuts, a flat washer, and a lock washer. The flat washer and one nut on the "head" side of the bolt, and the lock washer and other nut on the back side. It was kind of difficult to get the nut on the back side, but with patience and skilled fingers I got it to thread. Then it was just a matter of adjustment.

As far as the neutral safety switch goes, I just got a wire tap and squeezed it together (grounding the two wires to each other). I was never for disengaging the clutch to start the car.

Pretty easy install, took all of ten minutes! Gonna let the guys in my club know about this one...

And like someone said, the clutch is now an on-off switch. No middle ground, I love it.

yea i did this a while ago and love it. a nice touch with all my other shifting mods. i also did it very differently. i used some plastic collar thing i found at my job for the stop.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n159/cavalier94sq/IMG_1304painted.jpg

Here is a question for you guys... I plan to do the clutch stop on my tc. I currently have an alarm/remote start installed on my car, and it bypassed my clutch. So i do not even need to use my clutch to start my vehicle... I still do, but i have without it... Do i need to worry about that step of this project, or is the clutch engage switch only matter for starting the car?

I think the clutch switch also allows the cruise to be shut off when you step on the clutch. But I'm guessing you can't use cruise already anyway since you bypassed the switch.

i use cruise everyday! haha

there are two switches on the clutch pedal. The one you bypass is just for the starter.

Ive devised a clutch stop that is unobtrusive to ur stock stuff down there.

0 Gauge Wire.

My audio system is running thick extra heavy duty wrapped Kicker 0 gauge wire and we ran it to a pre-existing hole behind the 3 pedals.

Lol it just so happens that when i clutch now im hitting the wire...and causing no damage to it either cause its so thick!!

i can move it out and away if i want to, which i did, for a day, and it felt crappy

so my 0 gauge clutch stop is back and in working order.

I suggest extra insulation on that area. With time, it will wear out.

^yea i wrapped it up further in electrical tape


i dont care anyway i have 100ft of kicker 0 gauge sittin around anyway lol

^yea i wrapped it up further in electrical tape


i dont care anyway i have 100ft of kicker 0 gauge sittin around anyway lol

you'll care once you wear though the insulation on the wire and you either blow a fuse or burn the car up.

^yea i wrapped it up further in electrical tape


i dont care anyway i have 100ft of kicker 0 gauge sittin around anyway lol

you'll care once you wear though the insulation on the wire and you either blow a fuse or burn the car up.

x2

bah its all good.....its under the rug behind the pedal itself

not where the stock clutch stop is..so the only thing making contact is the blunt part of the pedal

here's how i did mine. as you can see, i drilled a hole way too big into the preexisting hole so i ditched that method. here is what i came up with and turns out to be a lot more simple too.

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/9738/img2748ed4.jpg
both bolts are M6x20. i used 6 washers on the bottom so it's long enough to press on the clutch disengagement switch. you have to drill a hole for the bottom bolt. then i used a 1/4" star washer for the 3 nuts so it's less likely to get loose from vibration, etc. the nuts are flange nuts. got everything at OSH for under 5 bucks.

http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/5996/img2752eg4.jpg

tekstyle , that is pretty cool .

tekstyle, How in the world did you manage to get a power drill up in there?

tekstyle, How in the world did you manage to get a power drill up in there?


vice grip the clutch to the metal structural piece u see in the back. or have someone step down on it. then start with a small drill bit to start a hole, and go up to the final size bit.

I just did this mod today. I ended up doing it like tekstyle did and using 2 bolts and washers. The hardest part was drilling the hole for one of the bolts. After i killed 3 drill bits i finally went to the hardware store and bought a cobalt drill bit.
As far as results, this mod is great! It got rid of all that extra slack in the clutch and shifting seems much easier and faster. I can zip through the gears now alot faster.
Great mod! Thanks again tekstyle

I just did this mod today. I ended up doing it like tekstyle did and using 2 bolts and washers. The hardest part was drilling the hole for one of the bolts. After i killed 3 drill bits i finally went to the hardware store and bought a cobalt drill bit.
As far as results, this mod is great! It got rid of all that extra slack in the clutch and shifting seems much easier and faster. I can zip through the gears now alot faster.
Great mod! Thanks again tekstyle

yes i agree, this is a very good cheap easy mod that really makes a nice difference. the car should have come from the factory this way. there is no need for all that extra free play.

Thanks matt_burgess. Always a pleasure to help out :-)

Damn, I guess I'm the only one who has to push the pedal to the carpet to get it to shift. LOL If I did the mod I'd never be able to get it in gear. Been doing that since day 1, 15k miles now.

maybe try to adjust nut at the cylinder rod. however, this nut is a pain in the ___ to get loose.

I'm thinking I should buy / install a spare OEM shifter (Have a TWM installed) and bring the thing to the dealer to check out. Have a feeling they're going to tell me it's fine tho. Guess what I really need is someone to push the pedal while I watch the slave to see if it's really moving like it's supposed to be. It's gotta be my car, seems everyone has the extra play. Hmm..

u can also flush ur clutch reservior with completely new fluid. a small air bubble in the line is enough to give you that extra play or prevent u from disengaging at all.

Hey just did this mod today and it is a great mod. It is a bit difficult to do the work up in there but it is worth the effort. It is great bang for your buck too!

Not sure if this has been discussed. But is there a way you can start the car without having to push down the clutch ? I did this with my old car but am new to scion t/c's 08

Not sure if this has been discussed. But is there a way you can start the car without having to push down the clutch ? I did this with my old car but am new to scion t/c's 08
theres an easy way and a hard way. the easy way is a simple bypass, but you will lose ur cruise control. the hard way...uhmm..well not sure how that works. but just push down the clutch to start the car, is it that hard?

Just got done doing this mod and my shifting is 100x smoother, especially going from 1st to 2nd gear. It was pretty diffucult to reach my arm in the small area and it took me alot of trial and error to get it adjusted to the right length but it was difinitely worth the time and the 4 bucks.

Again, how do u do this?

nice.. i might do this.. i have TRD clutch.. but the biggest problem is.. it feels spongy when i press the clutch .. when i start pressing the pedal in the first half inch it feels too soft.. after that its really hard and nice (sporty) what can i do with that first inch? is there a way to adjust the pedal there?

yea... this is def my next mod... ive seen a few diff posts saying slightly diff things on the best way to get this and the parts required... anyone suggest a link to help us out?

i did it.. im not really sure if i like it................................

well i got trd clutch already so its not like yours guys.. but.. it feels a little bit ...well how to say this.. :tacky... sloppy?

i couldent find an elevator bolt so i welded a fender washer to the 1/4 20, i think if u use to small of a bolt in the existing hole in the write up, there isnt enough contact with the clutch petal touchy thingey, u need a bolt with a large top, thanks alot for the mod ^_^

yeah i went to home depot they never heard of elevator bolts....

hmm something to look into doing in the near future...

DOES THIS WORK WITH AN AUTO?

yes it will!!! it will turn your auto to 6speed!

I know this is a super old thread but i'm in the process of setting up this mod. What is the best way of figuring out how far in your clutch has to be so that is is not slipping when you shift? i was thinking finding a flat spot and listening really closely, I figure there must be a more exacting way. Thanks for any help.
-Alex

DOES THIS WORK WITH AN AUTO?

yea man, you just gotta duct tape a clutch pedal next to your brake pedal and you'll be set and ready to jet!

I know this is a super old thread but i'm in the process of setting up this mod. What is the best way of figuring out how far in your clutch has to be so that is is not slipping when you shift? i was thinking finding a flat spot and listening really closely, I figure there must be a more exacting way. Thanks for any help.
-Alex

Are you running a stock clutch? If so, you'll be good running the elevator bolt down as far as you can. What you can do to make sure its disengaging fully is park your car on _________flat ground. Push your clutch pedal all the way to the floor and SLOWLY release it. If you did it correctly, as soon as you release the slightest pressure off the pedal you should feel the car start moving. and you should feel the car stop pulling once you push it to the floor again. If not, you need to adjust the bolt down further. In my case, i ran the set-nut all the way to the top and that was PERFECT for me. could be different for you...

Let me know if that helps at all. I can make some diagrams if need when I get home.

Just did this 2 my car about 10 mins ago... Did everything the exact same way except i used 2 thick Magic Sliders on top another and taped them together to the clutch pedal with electrical tape just in case they don't fall off...

I know this is an old post but had anyone done this mod recently?

I know this is an old post but had anyone done this mod recently?

I know your post is old, but I just finished it a few hours ago.

Okay again sorry to revive an old thread, but i just did the mod this saturday and i love it! i was so excited that the elevator bolt actually threaded in that i forgot to adjust the switch screw down when i adjusted the bolt down... and i broke the switch.:lalala: its okay, i like starting my car without putting the clutch in! haha anyway, should i hardwire the switch wires together? or is the broken switch okay? i just dont want it to stop making contact one day and my car be unable to start. thanks again for the awesome mod!:bow:

heres what i did very simple,since i couldnt bolt on anything or make holes in any place,
all i did was get some sliders from lowes $5 and i just happen to say well let me put a slider on the clutch stop and the other peice that makes contact with the engagement switch,i was a little skeptical,thinking it would be to high but to my suprise it was perfect spot,i can shift alot more smoother without have to pushing the clutch to the ground,how long would this mod last,dont know<just happen to stick them up there to see what happens,feels like a different car,http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af22/stef749/102_2740.jpg?t=1286568913

sorry if this is a old thread,but seems very interesting, would this mod work with a aftermarket clutch such as act

i wouldnt do it... i have trd clutch and it was horrible...

my buddy did it on his act clutch and said it wasnt to bad,but it you have to hold the clutch in a lil longer then usuall do to the engagment point is right there,just cant release it quick

awesome

Great mod! I've head to Lowe and got all the parts required to do this mod it's all located on the same isle where the screws, washer are. Tap the 1/4 hole was pretty tough part of the DIY. here are some pictures on the parts with sku# hope it helps.

Thread Tap $10 for two
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a15/motd0iyeuem/DIY/ThreadTap.jpg
Nylon Spacer 58c
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a15/motd0iyeuem/DIY/NylonSpacer2.jpg
Machine 4-40x1"
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a15/motd0iyeuem/DIY/Machine4-40x1.jpg
Elevator Bolts
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a15/motd0iyeuem/DIY/ElevatorBolts.jpg

Seems like a cool mod, I wonder if the only reason the clutch travels so far is so the switch can be engaged. That is a waste of one inch right there!
I recommended bypassing the clutch starter switch, there are a few methods out there. Plus chicks dig the fact they can start a manual car from the passenger seat. (Maybe not all girls lol)

You must be all be short-leggers ;-) half the excitement of pushing the clutch is being able to pop my left knee... if I have the seat anywhere other than all the way back, I feel like I need MORE clutch travel!