TC Brake Pad Change
Very easy, absolutely DIY, no special tools or skills required. Kudos to TOYOTA for making it so easy... Remeber that real car enthussiasts always change pads themselves to enusre on of the most critical componenents of your car operates properly....

Tools required:
14mm socket wrench(for front wheels)
17mm socket wrench (for rear wheels)
c-clamp or caliper piston tool

Steps:
1. Remove the wheel completely (follow car's manual)
2. Locate two large bolts on the back of caliper
3. This step is different for the front and rear wheels:
FRONT wheels: Using 14mm socket remove ONLY the UPPER bolt
REAR wheels: Using the 17mm socket remove ONLY the LOWER bolt
4. Swing the inner part of the caliper out to expose the pads
5. Using a c-clamp SLOWLY (single turn every 15 secs) push the pad (and the piston underneath it) in until the piston is almost flush with its housing
6. Note the position of pads
7. Remove the pads (two per wheel)
8. Install new pads, make sure their friction surfaces face THE ROTOR
9. Swing the caliper back in
10. Reinstall the bolt removed in step 3, tighten by HAND
11. Reinstall the wheel (follow car's manual)
12. Follow the bedding/brake-in process as outlined by the manufacturer of the pads and/or avoid hard braking for the first 100 miles

NOTE: The front pads have the same exact specs as CELICA GTS, the rear as LEXUS ES300 and COROLLA

Great instructions, didnt realize it was that easy.....Why not in the tech articles though????

9. Reinstall the bolt removed in step 3, tighten by HAND

I believe it's 25ft.lb. for those who have a torque wrench.

9. Reinstall the bolt removed in step 3, tighten by HAND

I believe it's 25ft.lb. for those who have a torque wrench.


I would say do not over do it or the next brake change will be a real pain in the...

Now - you're doing this while the brake line is still connected, right?

hmm interesting....

Im actually gonna be changing my brakes soon and this will be handy!

Now - you're doing this while the brake line is still connected, right?

Correct, you don't need to do this to change the pads. To rebuild or change a caliper, yes. Do not disconnect the brake lines unless you plan on bleeding the brakes afterwards...

I gotta change my brake lines too that's why I was wondering...

... now how hard is it to change the rotors?

I gotta change my brake lines too that's why I was wondering...

... now how hard is it to change the rotors?

Not hard at all.

All you have to do is:

1. Remove the other bolt on the caliper
2. Slide the caliper off
3. Suspend the the caliper with some wire and hang it on the springs up top. Don't let the brake line and caliper just dangle.
4. Remove the bolts from the caliper mount.
5. Slide off the mount.
6. Slide off the rotor, which might take a little bit of force due to rusting.

When changing breaks when is it necessary to change and/or cut your rotors?

I'm thinking about buying all 4 rotors from rotorpros.com

What brake pads do you recommend for low brake dust? Also can you tell me where I can get them and what model they are??

when you change pads, its NOT always necessary to change the rotor. u can usually change the rotor every other pad change. but it also depends on your preference. my two cents.

I have the Stoptech Stage II Kit - rotors and pads and brake lines.

I figure I can do the rotors and pads myself and then have my friend help me with the brake lines and bleeding.

Low dust pads? Go wtih Axxis Deluxe Plus. They're organic compound pads with very low dust and long life.

where can i get a c clamp

Nice writeup, very useful...but I too would like to know where to get a c clamp. Is this a common item that can be found in the local car parts place?

tried to change my pads.. but i couldn't.. the top bolt is way too tight...

If the top bolt is too tight slip a metal pole over the handle of the socket wrench and gently use it to apply more leverage to loosen the bolt. The C-clamp can be found at any store that sells tools like SEARS. I use to work there as a mechanic.

im just scared of stripping the bolt.. is there anything else i can use besides a pole?

Maybe a torque wrench in reverse? just a thought...

Never use a torque wrench as normal socket-wrench... they're precision pieces of equipment.

You won't strip the bolt if you apply more pressure. Just make sure the socket is seated properly.

anyone got any instructions on how to replace brake lines. Ill be getting a a stop tech kit soon.

definately wouldve been helpful with pictures.

interesting... pictures would help though.

^^^ agreed, but its still an awesome thread nevertheless

Do you change all four brakes at a time? Or do you just do the front?

Thanks!
:relief:

Usually the front is done... 30% of braking power is applied to the rear.. but eventually later you will have to change the rear pads as well.

what about the pads in the rear for the parking brake?

those are in the rear...

those are in the rear...

yeah i know, our rear rotors have built in drums from the parking brake, the parking brake has pads. has anyone changed them?

Hmm not yet for me. I have 25,000 and there still good. I changed the front however.

I've asked Autozone and Pepboys for 06 Tc pads but they dont have them in stock or have a part number. Do you guys think I can use 05 pads?

i ordered oem from McGeorge's and got a great deal...

just googled for McGeorge's Toyota and they're located in Virginia. YIKES!

But they ship... :lalala:

mcgeorparts.com is a quality site you should get them in less than a week. even if youre in cali.

would anybody consider putting pictures to the instructions just so we can bring the comp right out to car while performing the pad swap? .... i know what someone is going to say .... "how much clearer can it get" ... well - for someone (like myself) that has never bothered changing the pads and has always taken it to a shop .... seeing the pictures before I go out side and knowing 100% what everything looks like .... It would help. I think that some other guys/girls might feel the same way. I know I can follow directions and do exactly what it says (and eveybody says its easy to do) but it does help knowing what things look like even before hand.

ok well Im going to be changin my brakes not breaks soon

so i will try to take detailed pics....

yes but doesnt mcgeorge only have the stock ones? there might be a better choice then the stockers.

yes but doesnt mcgeorge only have the stock ones? there might be a better choice then the stockers.

order from here

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=123058&start=0

good guys :clap:

ok well I was planning to change my brakes but when I took the old ones out they were fine.....plenty of brakes left but these are some of the pics I took which would be the process in changing them

front brakes
after taking the wheels off
step 1: locate the top bolt and use a 14mm socket and pry it loose
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/chubster40/100_1708.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/chubster40/100_1707.jpg

step 2: swing the caliper down and the brake pad will be exposed
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/chubster40/100_1709.jpg

step 3: note the way u take the brake pad out which will be the same way u put the new one on..also note the metal brackets as im sure u will use those again (im not sure since I didnt change mine)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/chubster40/100_1710.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/chubster40/100_1711.jpg


thats as far as I got but when u do change them u will need a c-clamp to compress the piston so the caliper goes over the new brake pad then just bolt it up again using the 14mm socket

after all this is u will need to bleed ur brake as well as add ur brake fluid.

Im not sure if I covered everything as im in a rush to get out and to swimming...lol

but if I did forget anything let me know so I can edit this...

also this is to be used as a guide so i will not be responsible for any damaged caused...

gracias....

Why would one have to bleed the brake lines? The system was never openned and the brake line was never exposed to the air.

i just did it to mine today it was very easy!

Did you bleed the line?

no.... no need it really is very simple 1 screw old pads off new pads just slide in use the c clamp to push the piston back in and screw the screw back in and your done.... about 15 min.

axxis ult are very good by the way!

Thanks for the info!

ok well i need some help........ after driving the car hard it seems they my brakes are not working very well.. it seems like the pressure in the lines is not very high and i need to press it in pretty far to get it to go..... also when im stoped(auto trans) when i hit the brakes really quick it usually jumps back and forth but now its like really slugish


HELP.........

bleed brakes?

i never did.... every 1 says you dont need to im using axxis unlimited by the way.

i slamed the breaks and they locked up so they are working but it just feels very slugish and if you tap it hard its not a sudden jerk..

I gotta change my brake lines too that's why I was wondering...

... now how hard is it to change the rotors?

Not hard at all.

All you have to do is:

1. Remove the other bolt on the caliper
2. Slide the caliper off
3. Suspend the the caliper with some wire and hang it on the springs up top. Don't let the brake line and caliper just dangle.
4. Remove the bolts from the caliper mount.
5. Slide off the mount.
6. Slide off the rotor, which might take a little bit of force due to rusting.


How the hell hard do you need to pry on this thing? Ive tried EVERYTHING to get it off? Are you sure you dont have to take off that HUGE black nut thats in the middle?

Come on seriously, nobody here knows? I find this hard to believe...where the hell are the people who know what the heck they are talking about?"

^^ you need to wait a little longer, not everyone is on the board 24 hrs a day

I gotta change my brake lines too that's why I was wondering...

... now how hard is it to change the rotors?

Not hard at all.

All you have to do is:

1. Remove the other bolt on the caliper
2. Slide the caliper off
3. Suspend the the caliper with some wire and hang it on the springs up top. Don't let the brake line and caliper just dangle.
4. Remove the bolts from the caliper mount.
5. Slide off the mount.
6. Slide off the rotor, which might take a little bit of force due to rusting.


How the hell hard do you need to pry on this thing? Ive tried EVERYTHING to get it off? Are you sure you dont have to take off that HUGE black nut thats in the middle?


next time wait a little longer than 20 mins before posting a bump.
anyways, don't pry it off, most likely it's held on with rust, you need to smash it with a hammer towards the center in a circle pattern and it will probably fall off. that thing in the center is the dust cover for you drive shaft leave it alone (correct me if wrong on this)

nice writeup, watching

so are most of you guys chaning front and rear pads or just the fronts for now? i seen a couple replies on pg2 but wanted to hear more opinions from others. thanks

just fronts - the rears you dont stop as hard on so they dont wear as fast. i am hoping to get mine done tomorrow. i just picked up a brake bleeder for $8 from the store.

i'm sure this was already asked, when you change the pads are you resurfacing the rotors?

I would assume it wouldnt be needed for the first change. it couldnt hurt but might not be needed.

well guys - i torqued the caliper bolts to 40lbs and broke the bolt - i can tell ya one thing .... the lbs is prob more like 30-35 .... it sure as hell isnt over 35.

9. Reinstall the bolt removed in step 3, tighten by HAND

I believe it's 25ft.lb. for those who have a torque wrench.

its gotta be right around that.

ok guys - I went to toyota today to buy the bolts. It turns out that most toyota dealers do not stock them. I found a larger dealership that happened to have 23of them. I think they cost me around $.56 each and I bought 6. I changed all 4 bolts in the front since they were so cheap. They told me the torque setting for the caliper bolts are 25lbs. When I took off my caliper on the other side they were torqued to 30lbs. Moral of the story is ...30lbs is the MAX!! I was talked to the guy I work with today and he said I had the torque wrench up to 50lbs. ..... 50lbs will break the bolts just so you guys know. I would say torque anywhere from 25 to 30.

Turned out that I had 1/2 my pads left and it was the heat shield that was rubbing. Now that I have new pads, bleeded brake lines, and clean rims (from my tire rotation) I can go on with things and deff say that I learned a lot from this venture. The hardest part about changing brakes is getting enough (ballz) courage to do it for the first time. The guy at work helped me do the one wheel and I did the other today by myself (and also rebolted the other caliper w/ the broken bolt).

There is nothing hard about doing this after you know how to properly do the first wheel. Honestly I knew it was easy to change brakes but it was A LOT easier then what I even thought. I went to pepboys and bought a $8 self bleeding kit which helped me compress the piston very very very easily. Some guys say ya dont need the bleed the lines but I did and it was a very easy thing to do.

Last thing: the part number for the front caliper bolts (2 small 1inch'ish bolts) is: 90105-08164 - All the dealers said their prices were the same so expect to pay .56-$2.30 per bolt.

one more thing - some people are saying that you dont need to take both bolts off the caliper - I would take both off so you dont have to pull on the brake line to get the pad off. ...thats just my 2c

kinda hard to answer, but is there any method to tightening the bolts if you don't own a torque wrench...i hate to have to buy one for this...i might be able to borrow one.
i say this, because in the past i've heard people say to tighten then till snug, then turn it another half turn...

also, after driving on the freshly torqued bolts, should you retighten them?
maybe i'm just hearing old man suggestions

well - i used my torque wrench for my tires. ....thats why i broke the bolt. that wrench gives you so much leverage that it just snapped the bolt because it was just sooo easy to do. Im saying this because it would be a good idea for you to get a torque wrench for the future. You can use it on your struts, wheels, and now brakes.

And yes - wheels and struts its a good idea to retorque after a few days just to make sure things are ok. I got my wrench on sale at sears for $50 and I think the original price was $75. I wasnt about to spend 200 on something (like you) that im prob going to use very rarely.

Hey, I am trying to order some Axxis Deluxe pads, what's the best price and where di d you all get them from? vividracing cost: 66+20 shipping, what do you think?

thnx!!

Quick question guys, I've been informed that putting the axxis ultimates (ceramic pads) on slotted rotors is not recommended as they are too rough on the slotted rotors surface.

Also, are there axxis ultimates for the rear? if not, can someone maybe give a recommendation for the rear?

For those of you who are just replacing the front brakes, I am assuming that you are not putting in new rotors or anything. I figure it'd look stupid to have two slotted rotors in the front and regular in the back lol.

I have the axxis ultimates on the front and rear... with slotted rotors... Yes, they make the rear pads for the tC too.

Who told you that it's not recommended? It's what StopTech gives you with the stage 2 brake upgrade kit.

ceramic is softer than any semi metallic pad...
just a note for the future... it is a good idea to have the brake system flushed everytime you do your brakes... not matter how careful you are moisture still gets in the fluid... it is a good idea to turn the rotors.. but if you can't use a pad and scuff it up... then go through the break in period again... ceramic and ceramic blend pad make the least amount of brake dust and noise.. remember to get some anti squeak gel or spray and get some lube for the bolts..

I have the axxis ultimates on the front and rear... with slotted rotors... Yes, they make the rear pads for the tC too.

Who told you that it's not recommended? It's what StopTech gives you with the stage 2 brake upgrade kit.

I contacted rotorpros.com about rotors and pads, this is the e-mail that they sent me when I inquired about putting ceramic pads (such as axxis ultimates) on slotted rotors, and I do take their opinion fairly highly as they have excellent recommendations:


"Ceramics are really harsh and should only be used with blank rotors. However, to be honest with you, I do not recommend them at all. The thing with ceramics is that they wear down your rotors faster than normal and eventually cause warping. Sure they create less dust but I don't really think it's worth it, if they lessen the life of your rotors.
You want your rotors to wear down your pads not vice-versa. The Posi Quiet Extended wear is all you will need. We sell this set up for everything."

any opinions or comments on that?

I trust stoptech's judgement on their brake kit.

I trust stoptech's judgement on their brake kit.

As do I, but i'm wondering why rotorpros would say that its not recommended. If anyone can shed some light...

Cuz maybe they want you to buy THEIR pads?

true...

How relevant do you all think the brake fluid is performance-wise. Will putting in top quality fluid make a nice difference in braking power? What can you all tell me about the fluid?

The main difference with brake fluid is the boiling point. Higher performance brake fluid has a higher boiling point, which means less brake fade when the brakes are being used heavily and everything's getting very hot.

definately wouldve been helpful with pictures.i agree?? is anyone going to post some?

definately wouldve been helpful with pictures.i agree?? is anyone going to post some?

pictures of him draining the fluid?

Thank you for the helpful post. I would like to ask the original poster to edit the first post to avoid problems. Without the changes, the procedure could cause damage and potential accidents.

#1 Add to list of tools a14mm open end wrench.

#2 Add instruction. While holding slider nut on inside of caliper with 14mm open end wrench, loosen caliper mounting bolts

#3 Add instruction. Tighten caliper mounting to 25 ft/lbs of torque.

The reason I suggest this is in case anyone just reads the first post.

Again, thanks for the helpful starting point. It is one of the easiest brake jobs I have ever done. Unless rotors need turning, it could easily be a ten minute job.

Oldman2

#3 Add instruction. Tighten caliper mounting to 25 ft/lbs of torque.


Funny how fast i forget but i broke my caliper bolt and posted in an old post what the torque should be ... is it 20lbs or 25? ... I dont know why im thinking it was only 20. I forget. All i know is that i torqued it to 45 and spun the whole bolt.

Somewhere in the thread someone mentioned that they had asked a dealer and it was 25 ft/lbs. It does seem like the factory torque was considerably higher. I'll try to remember to check it out on Monday. Anyone who's going to work on cars needs to invest in a 1/2 and 3/8 drive torque wrench. Your life DOES depend on it. Please do not use it as an extra rachet or hammer.

When I do the brakes on my other Scion, I'll take a set of pictures on it.

Oldman2

Somewhere in the thread someone mentioned that they had asked a dealer and it was 25 ft/lbs. It does seem like the factory torque was considerably higher. I'll try to remember to check it out on Monday. Anyone who's going to work on cars needs to invest in a 1/2 and 3/8 drive torque wrench. Your life DOES depend on it. Please do not use it as an extra rachet or hammer.

When I do the brakes on my other Scion, I'll take a set of pictures on it.

Oldman2


yup - its 25lbs. I posted it here:
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=122989&highlight=break

:ponder: ing...

tighten by hand ?

25lbs w/ a torque wrench

If you can tighten to 25 ft lbs by hand, don't ever pinch anyone. Again, if you're going to work on cars, invest in torque wrenches.

thx for info.

also, when should i change my front pads? 25k?
sorry if this was asked before... i looked but nothing really.

If you're rough on brakes, I would start checking them at about 15,000 miles. When the pads are down to about 1/8" thickness left, replace them. Buy high quality, long mileage guarantee brake pads. It appears that Totota is using very soft pads on these to make brakes seem better than they are to potential buyer. This is leading to premature wear out of the factory pads. Depending on your driving style, a good set of pads should last 40-80,000 miles. Thanks Toyota, I was wondering why your dealer pressured me for a $90 brake inspection at the second free oil change. :no: :no:

thx for info.

also, when should i change my front pads? 25k?
sorry if this was asked before... i looked but nothing really.


You need to look into your wheel and find the pad. Once thats found you will be able to see how much is left. I changed my front pads when they were 1/2 way (because I thought they had less pad then they did). Cost me $27.50 ....hehe...so whocares.

I really wanted to change them to begin with because every time i would put the car in reverse you would hear a clicking sound. That clicking sound was because there was a bit of play in the pad (thats normal but didnt want the car making that sound).

i dont have a torque wrench so i tighten by hand to the point where i couldnt tigthen anymore.

I'm going to recheck the bolts when i do my oil change next week.

i dont have a torque wrench so i tighten by hand to the point where i couldnt tigthen anymore.

I'm going to recheck the bolts when i do my oil change next week.

25lbs isnt much - make sure you dont over tighten - i spun the head off the bolt when i did it ..trying to torque it to 50lbs (cause my friends car is 50lbs ....and after i broke the bolt i went to the dealer and asked what the right torque is). ....25lbs!! hehe.

What size c-clamp is used to push back the caliper?

Ahhh ..... I dont know ..... I just used the one I had at my house. Its going to have to be atleast a few inches so it can get into where the piston is

go to homedepot and get the one that's about 12 inches long.

Holy jeze .. ... ^^ you deff dont need one with bigger then a 6 inch gap (in the clamp).

its a 4"....i checked into it

for some reason as i was using the c-clamping, my brake fluid started to spill over. should i be worried?

If you've added brake fluid before, that's normal. The concern would be the brake fluid on paint.

alright then. it didn't get on any paint, just concrete.

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD. IT DOESN'T SAY ANYWHERE IN 5 PAGES TO PUMP THE BRAKES BEFORE MOVING THE CAR!

PUMP THE BRAKES TILL THERE IS PRESSURE BEFORE MOVING YOUR VEHICLE!

I just did my fronts and almost backed into my friends dads audi. very close call.

I finally did this. I'm kicking myself in the head for letting Sears rip me off for changing them on my wife's car. Good write up for a simple (and necessary) procedure!

i was trying to change my brake pads but the ones i got from the auto store just dont seem to fit in between the caliper, i mean ive replaced brake pads before just not on tc, is there a trick i dont know? i even went back to the auto store to see if i got the wrong ones but they are the right brake pads, but why dont they seem to fit? help please

Alex

edit nvm i figured it out, one small suggestion i found this caliper spreading tool to be way easier than a c-clamp

4. Using a c-clamp SLOWLY (single turn every 15 secs) push the pad (and the piston underneath it) in until the piston is almost flush with its housing



That says to push the pad with the piston underneath it. but when you swing out the inner part of the caliper you are separating the pads from the piston. am i right??

Just did ours last night, @ 60k miles original front pads were paper thin and squeeling like a pig, super easy, only thing to add, is if your brake master cyl is full with thin pads, with NEW pads you should need to remove some fluid and you may want to take the cap off during the "c-clamp" process...YMMV
FWIW, didnt have a regular c clamp so used one of those wood working type c clamps made by vise grip w/the blue and yellow handle, the larger version, worked fine.

4. Using a c-clamp SLOWLY (single turn every 15 secs) push the pad (and the piston underneath it) in until the piston is almost flush with its housing



That says to push the pad with the piston underneath it. but when you swing out the inner part of the caliper you are separating the pads from the piston. am i right??

When you swing the caliper away the pads stay in the slot where they function on the bracket, not the caliper, after you remove them from there you can use a pad to assist in the c clamp process if you want, either way it will work.

Napa carries stock size slotted and drilled rotors. they start with a pr number. but usually have to be ordered from the warehouse.

and if you take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir the pistons move in without the use of a clamp (just push real hard)

ok... I gotta change my break pads tommorrow morning.



I'm kinda confused about the c-clamp thing. Can someone go into detail about it or re-up those pics that someone posted earlier, the links are dead

Thank you so much for the post it made my first brake change go so smoothly. A few things I'd like to note.

#1: As previously stated by another member, before you start moving the car PUMP THE BRAKES. I would have backed into a very pretty 4Runner if I hadn't thought quick and pulled the e-brake.

#2: My factory bolts were very tight, maybe partially rusted, this is my first brake job at 60K miles. To loosen the bolts I squirted some WD-40 on them and let it sit for a minute or two. As soon as I did that, so much easier to take off.

I probably overtightened my bolts, I didn't read that whole "hand tighten" part and just used a wrench to tighten. I guess the next brake job will be a real pain, darn.

Again, just saying thank you to the forum and the original poster, made my life so much easier.

ok... I gotta change my break pads tommorrow morning.



I'm kinda confused about the c-clamp thing. Can someone go into detail about it or re-up those pics that someone posted earlier, the links are dead

I've tried to give a Paint drawing of what it looks like. It's much more obvious when you actually see it.

You'll see the piston, (mine, 2005 TC, was an hollow cylinder) sticking out from where the brake line goes in. You put the c-clamp so its on the back of the solid piece (where the brake lines go in) and pushing back on the piston that is sticking out. You have to push it back in so the new thicker brake pads fit.

Before
http://i36.tinypic.com/15pmidu.jpg

After
http://i36.tinypic.com/2rqllr7.jpg

watching.

don't forget to put the squealer tabbed pad on the inside of each side. I ended up with both squealer pads after the first side and had to go back and redo the side so it had the squealer on it. (the squealer looks like a little handle on the back of the pad and makes a noise when your pads are low so you know to change them.)

i did everything to a T and when i drive the car the breaks are squishey during hard breaking and i have to pump them to stop perfectly why is that :nails: :pray:

is there for one for XA?

Thanks for the instructions for the rear

Does the xA have disc or drums? I know my wife's xD has discs up front and drums in the back. A lot of finagling with springs for drum brakes. I managed to google a decent how to on those, shouldn't be hard to find.

Here's a video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PFiCV2BG2Y&feature=PlayList&p=8EA12E2765936061&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=2

I gotta change my brake lines too that's why I was wondering...

... now how hard is it to change the rotors?

Not hard at all.

All you have to do is:

1. Remove the other bolt on the caliper
2. Slide the caliper off
3. Suspend the the caliper with some wire and hang it on the springs up top. Don't let the brake line and caliper just dangle.
4. Remove the bolts from the caliper mount.
5. Slide off the mount.
6. Slide off the rotor, which might take a little bit of force due to rusting.


How the hell hard do you need to pry on this thing? Ive tried EVERYTHING to get it off? Are you sure you dont have to take off that HUGE black nut thats in the middle?


next time wait a little longer than 20 mins before posting a bump.
anyways, don't pry it off, most likely it's held on with rust, you need to smash it with a hammer towards the center in a circle pattern and it will probably fall off. that thing in the center is the dust cover for you drive shaft leave it alone (correct me if wrong on this)

So we do not have to remove that huge black nut in the middle?

Have you guys ever run into a problem? That there's caliper bolt thats sort of acts like a "key" to stop everyday people to change their own brakes? Makes that person go back to a Toyota tech if they are not mechanical smart?

Cause my cousin did mine...I was watching him step by step. Within couple of minutes doing the driver's front; there was that problem? Since he is smart, he just grind down one of his wrenches to fit that "key." After reading the posts, looks like no one ran into that problem???? Then on the other hand, I do have '07?

I have couple questions regarding brakes.

first, is it required to use the wear sensor clips on the ends of the pad?
two, does the grease go on the back of the pad or on the back of the shim that goes on the pad?


Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

The little brass/copper/whatever they're made of clips should be reinstalled, though I'm not so sure if it's *required*. Grease should go on the back of the brake pad and the front of the shim. Think of it as gluing the shim to the back of the brake pad.

As for a lockout shim that requires you to go to a dealership for service, a lot of procedures in the service manual for the tC require a "Special Service Tool" of some sort. Most of the time it requires a little ingenuity and common hand tools to get around these situations. Do you have any pics of the bolt XPRESSCION? I don't recall having any issues with the caliper bolts with common tools, though I have an 06.

Do not tighten the bolts by hand. Foolish. I did that and now the top bolt in my drivers side caliper is gone. I noticed a rubbing sound yesterday (about 2 weeks after I changed my pads, looked at it today when I got to work, and the caliper is OFF the rotor and pads. Not good. What's more, the dealer had to order me a new bolt, so I was stuck driving this limping car around all day. Not good when it concerns your brakes. I hope nothing else in the system got messed up in the process. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS BY HAND. EVER. Come on, these are your brakes we're dealing with.

Does anyone know if these same steps will work for an XD?

Does anyone know if these same steps will work for an XD?


Should be the same process