I searched, but didn't find what I was looking for - so if it's out there, then... I'm an idiot.

anyone w/ an xB changed their own oil? is there anything to it? I'd like to, but wanna know if there's anything odd, or anything I should look out for. I know how to reset the "maint req'd" light. and know it's just a tad less than 4 qts.

I plan to use the Toyota filter and 10W30 oil.

"... Prestone, no make that Quakerstate."

I still have not made it through my first 3 'free' oil changes yet, but I've seen some sites selling an 'Oil Plug Gasket' they say has to be replaced every time you change your oil.

Other than that, I've seen no reason to think that the xB would be different from any other car.

i thought they used 5w-30 for these engines i know my xa does

If your car is slammed, it will be a bit more fun. You might want to have a filter wrench incase the filter is on wicked tight. If you plan on owning this car for awhile, consider using Mobil 1 syn. oil.


GL!

i dont know if i would like to have milk jugs of dirty oil sitting around my garage. is the cost of buying the filters and the oil worth the price difference? are there any other replaceables people always use?

i am interested in the synthetic, but the dealers only use dont use it for the freebie changes.

The price difference isn't that big, but most people do it themselves just because they like changing their own oil or working on their own cars.

For a few bux you can get an oil drain pan that is a combination drain pan and container. Look at any auto parts store. It's great for draining the used oil and avoiding the "milk jug" disposal quandry. I've drained a couple of cars before it gets full. Then when it is full take it back to the store you bought it from and they will probably have a big tank in back that you can drain your container into for free. I've had one for years and it makes the changing and disposing of the oil easy.

Oil plug gasket? As long as you don't destroy the one that is on there it's probably good for a half dozen changes. After that go to any autopart store and get one for a couple of nickles.

Changing your own oil give you the opportunity to get into and underneath the car to look for damage, leaks and other oddities that you would not otherwise see. It's not that big of a deal.

It's super easy, the filter and plug are on the passenger's side. If you're not lowered, you may not even have to jack the car up.

I second the Mobil1, and Toyota filter.

Oh, and moved to M&CC

Do i have to remove the splash shield to get at the oil filter?

Oh man, I get free oil changes at the dealer FREE for as long as I own the car! No more crawling underneath the car and burning myself with the hot ___ oil.

As long as you own the car???? How'd you manage that?

well, thanks for the info., but perhaps I need to be more specific.

has anyone done their own oil change? if yes, are there any oddities to it? like: splash gaurds/ moving anything to get to the filter/ anything to reset/ gotta do something funky to the filter before you twist it on... stuff like that.

or is it striaght forward like most cars: drain/ replace the filter and fill 'er back up.

I changed my oil by myself the last time it needed it. It only cost me like $13 with an oil change kit coupon that I got from Toyota. Better than the $25 Toyota of Riverside wants and it took less than half the time. I did it in about 20 minutes. The only hard part was getting the old filter off cuz it was screwed on so tight and I didn't have the right wrench for it.

has anyone done their own oil change? if yes, are there any oddities to it? like: splash gaurds/ moving anything to get to the filter/ anything to reset/ gotta do something funky to the filter before you twist it on... stuff like that.

or is it striaght forward like most cars: drain/ replace the filter and fill 'er back up.

It's very basic.

The only added step I did was to fill the filter up with oil and lube the gasket. Since it sits vertically (hole at the top) I was able to fill it up and screw it in without spilling anything. This will help that engine's first gulp to be lubricated.

So no, there's nothing to remove aside from the filter and plug, and they're right next to each other.

I started doing my own after the first 3 from the dealer. Now I changed to full synthetic oil. The first time I changed it you could tell the difference right away. I meam right away. Drive the car, park it, shut if off, change the oil and start driving it again. You can tell the difference. Engine is a lot smoother in my case. Now I change it like every 4000 miles. Some people say that synthetic can go like 5000 or more but I rather be safe. I won't let it go over 4000..

I've heard that you can go 10k miles on synthetic.... Doesn't sound right though. Even if the oil does not breakdown you still get a lot of crap suspended in it. For the additional cost of synthetic it's cheap insurance if it makes the engine last longer.

thanks my friends. just what I needed.

As long as you own the car???? How'd you manage that?

I guess Champion Scion of Austin loves me :love: :rofl:

well, thanks for the info., but perhaps I need to be more specific.

has anyone done their own oil change? if yes, are there any oddities to it? like: splash gaurds/ moving anything to get to the filter/ anything to reset/ gotta do something funky to the filter before you twist it on... stuff like that.

or is it striaght forward like most cars: drain/ replace the filter and fill 'er back up.

No shields to remove. Oil will drain straight into the pan from both plug and filter.

Filter may probably need a cap wrench to remove.

Latex or vinyl gloves are very nice to keep your hands oil-free.

After you loosen the filter a bit put a big ziplock bag over it before you take it off. The ziplock bag will catch most of the drippage. You just remove the filter and zip up the bag!

Install the filter with 3/4 turn after the gasket touches. You can do this by hand without the wrench. Geeze, that filter is teeny!

There is a fiber washer under the drain plug. It's cheap, so replace it every time to avoid drips.

I'm using Mobil 1 with the 7500 mile drain intervals recommended in the manual. Go longer and you endanger your warranty. I've noted no difference with using Mobil 1, but the goal is long-term longevity and the added cost of the Mobil 1 is small.

Be sure to document your oil changes in a logbook or the service book that came with the car for warranty purposes.

Large liquid detergent bottles are very nice for carrying used oil. They have a large opening for pouring the oil in and a drip-proof spout for pouring the oil out.

George

I just go to Walmart for $12 every 5k miles.
I'm getting to old to craw under the car,Its bad enough what I have to do at work.


Scott

As long as you own the car???? How'd you manage that?

I guess Champion Scion of Austin loves me :love: :rofl:

Some dealers offer free oil changes as long as you bring the car to them for service.

Don't worry, they'll find plenty of other service work to do to make up for loss of revenue on the oil.

My dealer only gives the standard three free changes, but every time I took it in I got the pitch for the $100 "recommended service & inspection". Upon further questioning I was reluctantly told that this was a _dealer_ recommendation, not a Toyota recommendation, and the service consisted of such exotica as looking at the brake pads (just looking, not measuring) and checking to see if the CV boots are torn. I can do that myself and keep the $100, thankyouverymuch!

I had a heck of a time convincing them to forgo the "Free Car Wash" that they toss in with the free oil changes. Wouldn't mind the wash, but the guy at the wash rack used the same rag on the top of the car as he did under the rockers. Road tar doesn't come off very easily.

I just go to Walmart for $12 every 5k miles.
I'm getting to old to craw under the car,Its bad enough what I have to do at work.


Scott

Don't forget to budget for the replacement oil pan after they strip the drain plug! :cry:

The only added step I did was to fill the filter up with oil and lube the gasket. Since it sits vertically (hole at the top) I was able to fill it up and screw it in without spilling anything. This will help that engine's first gulp to be lubricated.

So no, there's nothing to remove aside from the filter and plug, and they're right next to each other.

I saw a post about 'anti drain back valves' in filters - how important that is for cold start up. My question ?????? because of the position of the xB filter - being straight up, how important is the anti drain back valve? Or is it irrelevent to our cars?
I too fill the filter before installing.

okay, so I changed the oil last weekend. the Toyota filter was $5 at the dealership and it came w/ a new fabric washer for the drain plug. I got 5W/30 synthetic oil. I also -finally- hooked up my oil pressure gauge adapter.

everything went smoothly. here's my question: I drive it the same as I always did, but I could swear the car runs/idles smoother. she's always gotten regular oil changes, so that's not it. synthetic wouldn't make a noticable difference. would it?

okay, so I changed the oil last weekend. the Toyota filter was $5 at the dealership and it came w/ a new fabric washer for the drain plug. I got 5W/30 synthetic oil. I also -finally- hooked up my oil pressure gauge adapter.

everything went smoothly. here's my question: I drive it the same as I always did, but I could swear the car runs/idles smoother. she's always gotten regular oil changes, so that's not it. synthetic wouldn't make a noticable difference. would it?

Yes it would, The reason it's smoother is because of the oil. I noticed the same with 3 cars that we switched to Synthetic. Scion Xa 20,000 miles Corolla with 100,000 miles and a truck with 25,000 miles. The result Smoother engines all around...

okay, so I changed the oil last weekend. the Toyota filter was $5 at the dealership and it came w/ a new fabric washer for the drain plug. I got 5W/30 synthetic oil. I also -finally- hooked up my oil pressure gauge adapter.

everything went smoothly. here's my question: I drive it the same as I always did, but I could swear the car runs/idles smoother. she's always gotten regular oil changes, so that's not it. synthetic wouldn't make a noticable difference. would it?

I switched to Mobil 1 at 15K in my xB and noticed absolutely no difference in engine smoothness.

However, if you think it runs smoother, relax and enjoy it! Maybe your car just responds nicely to personal attention!

George

I haven't done the DIY oil change on the xA yet, but I highly recomend getting two copper drain plug gaskets and installing one when you do the first oil chenge and then put the other one with your oil change stuff. Replace the drain plug gasket when the old one starts getting beat up. then buy another one when you buy the stuff for the next oil change. I always use copper drain plug gaskets, they last longer, and it is less likely that you will break it when (not if) you over tighten the drain plug. I also feel that copper seals better, but that is only my oppinion, but for an ten cent part, what's the harm?

As far as Mobil1 goes, I have never goten over 100,000 miles out of an engine I have put it into. And I have never gotten less than 100,000 miles out of an engine that I have run regular old dead dinosaur in(even ones I rebuilt after the mobil1 motor blew). The only exceptions being my 66 Baracuda (fell appart before 60,000 miles) and my 63 chevy II (I only put about 600 miles on it before I sold it).

I buy my Mobil 1 at Costco and get my filters from the dealer. I'd rather do it myself because on my first and only oil change and the dealer, they managed to leave greasy black finger prints all over the car as well as chip the paint on the door.
I get more piece of mind by simply doing it myself. It is easy and only takes 10-15 minutes. I usually go 4,000 miles per change due to how small the filter is. The oil looks decent still at 4,000, so I could probably go a bit longer but what the heck.

I haven't done the DIY oil change on the xA yet, but I highly recomend getting two copper drain plug gaskets and installing one when you do the first oil chenge and then put the other one with your oil change stuff. Replace the drain plug gasket when the old one starts getting beat up. then buy another one when you buy the stuff for the next oil change. I always use copper drain plug gaskets, they last longer, and it is less likely that you will break it when (not if) you over tighten the drain plug. I also feel that copper seals better, but that is only my oppinion, but for an ten cent part, what's the harm?

The stock fiber washer costs a quarter. Replace it every time and you'll never have a problem. No need for fancy copper washers.

Overtighten the drain plug? Not on my own car! That's what happens if you go to Jiffy Lube, but there isn't much to be done about that except to avoid oil change hacks.

If the stock washer doesn't leak, then how can a copper washer seal better? Half of nothing is still nothing!

If we really wanted to get exotic with oil plug gaskets we could machine the drain plug for an o-ring. We could even knurl the outside and make it out of titanium! That would be kewl! :)

I haven't done the DIY oil change on the xA yet, but I highly recomend getting two copper drain plug gaskets and installing one when you do the first oil chenge and then put the other one with your oil change stuff. Replace the drain plug gasket when the old one starts getting beat up. then buy another one when you buy the stuff for the next oil change. I always use copper drain plug gaskets, they last longer, and it is less likely that you will break it when (not if) you over tighten the drain plug. I also feel that copper seals better, but that is only my oppinion, but for an ten cent part, what's the harm?

The stock fiber washer costs a quarter. Replace it every time and you'll never have a problem. No need for fancy copper washers.

Overtighten the drain plug? Not on my own car! That's what happens if you go to Jiffy Lube, but there isn't much to be done about that except to avoid oil change hacks.

If the stock washer doesn't leak, then how can a copper washer seal better? Half of nothing is still nothing!

If we really wanted to get exotic with oil plug gaskets we could machine the drain plug for an o-ring. We could even knurl the outside and make it out of titanium! That would be kewl! :)

Never thought of a copper washer as an exotic. But then I sell screws for a living

how do you reset the "maint reqd" light? I changed my oil this weekend and the damn light keeps bugging me.

forget it, i found the answer.

.... synthetic wouldn't make a noticable difference. would it?

Mercedes diesel owners not only swear by Mobil 1, they actually scoff at other diesel owners who don't use it. It does make a noticeable change in the chatter of the valvetrain but usually takes a few oil changes for the affect to be noticed. I have no clue how it affects the Toyota engine.

check out...
http://bobistheoilguy.com/
all you answers are here

Way back in 1988, I had an '69 MGB Convertible. One of the best time saving investments I got was a drain plug replacement that had a ball valve on it. All copper construction and I just had to turn a crank on it to drain the oil, kinda like those old timey beer barrel valves.

(We're hoping my wife's xB comes in next Monday. We'll use the dealer for the first three changes, but then ....)

Are the filter and drain plug easily accessible, or does the car have to be on ramps (which I do have)

Any specific recommendations on filters? Anyone cut open a Toyota OEM, and compared it to a Mobil 1 (or others)?

On my 02 Maxima, there is a filter that has the same threads and gasket placement, but is about three times the volume (more filter surface area, therefore) so I use that instead of the specified model. Any one found something like that?

Can you get the drain plug washers at the auto parts retailers, or is it a Toyota item?

We just got rid of a 1991 Toyota Previa minivan, with 208,000 miles. Dino oil every 5000 miles, and no babying. We expect no less from the xB. This will be our 5th Toyota. 80 Tercel, 81 Tercel sedan, 85 Tercel SR5 4wd, 91 Previa, 06 xB. There's a 99 Honda in there (bought used, still have .. it's our son's) a 95 Dodge Grand Caravan (bleech. got rid of it when we got the Honda) and an 2002 Maxima (my car .. certainly not as roomy in the passenger cabin, but it's got 255 hp, and a 6spd manual!)

On my 02 Maxima, there is a filter that has the same threads and gasket placement, but is about three times the volume (more filter surface area, therefore) so I use that instead of the specified model. Any one found something like that?
)

I too would be interested if there is a larger filter that would fit as stock.

I just go to Walmart for $12 every 5k miles.
I'm getting to old to craw under the car,Its bad enough what I have to do at work.


Scott

With these quick change places you run the risk of them overtightening the drain plug or stripping it, not adding enough oil, adding too much oil, they wont pre-fill the new filter so the oil circulates instantly.... They will get your interior dirty, they don't care about you or your car...

You also get the chance to inspect your car when you do it yourself... Takes 20 minutes, its cheaper and done right....

On my 02 Maxima, there is a filter that has the same threads and gasket placement, but is about three times the volume (more filter surface area, therefore) so I use that instead of the specified model. Any one found something like that?
)

I too would be interested if there is a larger filter that would fit as stock.

Why... what makes u think the stock filter is not adequate?
Toyotas have a great reliability record... I'm sure the filter is up to the task.. Its only a 1.5L and doesn't need as much surface area to do the job..

I have no fears that the OEM filter isn't adequate. Once the three changes that the dealer provides are finished, however, I won't always have easy access to a Toyota filter.

I just figure that more area is better, and since most filters cost the same (per brand) why not get more surface area.

With the 3.5L engine in the Max, the M-105 is a lot more reassuring than the stock size! :-)

I have no fears that the OEM filter isn't adequate. Once the three changes that the dealer provides are finished, however, I won't always have easy access to a Toyota filter.

I just figure that more area is better, and since most filters cost the same (per brand) why not get more surface area.

With the 3.5L engine in the Max, the M-105 is a lot more reassuring than the stock size! :-)

I've done two 'home' oil changes on the xB. I did not notice an external difference between the Toyota filter and the very cheap after-market I used the first time. However, this time, I noticed the Toyota filter was substantially longer than that same brand after-market. Though I'll not likely use the Toyota filter (service writer guessed it was about $8.00) I am going to look for a better after-market filter from now on. I too thought about this longer filter cross as an option. When talking to a customer/mechanic about it he pulled out a cross reference book he uses at his business. It listed many options for some of the filters - but only one for our number - meaning that particular brand did not offer a longer one.

I haven't done any research yet into alternate filters for our engines, but I've seen extensive research over on maxima.org. There's a sticky there in their maintenance section about oil, filters, etc. People have purchased various filters, cut them apart and checked them out. Generally, the generic filters aren't well constructed, with cheaper filter material and cheaper bypass valves, etc. Some of the bigger name brands aren't very good, either. The Mobil 1 M-105, while not the designated filter for my Max, is well constructed, and much larger than the stock filter, so I just grab that one.

One week and counting to SWMBO's xB. She had to borrow our son's car to drive to work. 49 yr old lady in a black Civic coupe, 5spd, 17s, cat back and spoiler :-)

I think I'm going to get heated seats for her as a Chanukkah present.

How often do you guys change the regular oil? 5k or 3K. Manual says 5, dealer says 3. Maybe I should shoot for 4...dont know

i change mine every 5k the dealer shouldn't really have say unless its what the manual says otherwise they're probably trying to make extra money off you if you ask me.

I go 4k with Mobil1

Do you need to jack up the xA or put it on ramps? Also it i switch to Mobile 1. Do i need to get a synthetic oil filter? Also do i need to get new washers for he plug?

Thanks for the help!

ive changed oil quite a few times on my parents cars and my friends cars, but i never do changes in the winter cuz its too cold. Now that i have a car, it definitly needs a change and i cant stand how the oil change shops try to rip you off so i choose to do it myself, but i am wondering if there is any difference that i should note when changing oil in 80 degree weather or 40 degree weather? should i do anything different? thanks

ive changed oil quite a few times on my parents cars and my friends cars, but i never do changes in the winter cuz its too cold. Now that i have a car, it definitly needs a change and i cant stand how the oil change shops try to rip you off so i choose to do it myself, but i am wondering if there is any difference that i should note when changing oil in 80 degree weather or 40 degree weather? should i do anything different? thanks
Wear a jacket.

Hmmm, our dealership charges less than $30 for an oil change including tax and all. It's garunteed in less than 29 minutes too.

Check to see if your local dealer offers "Express Lube" service. Hell, it's way worth my time.

Also, addressing that oil filter discussion. There IS a difference and Toyota oil filters WILL be better for your car. In addition, they should be around $5 from the dealership parts department. Remember, you have anywhere from $15-20,000 invested in this car. Don't cheap out on the vehicle's lifeblood. Also, I wouldn't use a longer filter than recommended. Although you get more surface area, you're altering the pressure slightly by raising the volume of the system. Over time that could actually be harmful to the oil pump. Trust me, the factory filter is the best thing on the market for your car no matter what oil you run. Toyota has designed these filters to exceed the requirements of the engine's lubrication system and the longevity of these vehicles is a testiment to that.

-Alex

I havent changed my own oil, yet but am confused about what I will use. I still have 2 free oil changes left and will make sure I use them first.
The guy at Advancedauto parts said that for the first 50,000 I should just use good traditional oil and a reg oil filter. Then switch to Mobile 1. Changing the oil at every 5000.

Then I read on here about the importance of using syn oil. I am thinking I will buy the toyota oil filters and use a good reg oil, changing the oil every 3000. then at 50000 I will switch to syn.

What are the thoughts on this?

I have been told by an independent oil expert that the oil is a very high quality synthetic that comes in the xB from the factory. The dealer on the other hand may not use such a high quality oil since they don't warrenty the engine the factory does. But anyway you should have been told what the breaking in first oil change should be from the dealer - I was told 3600 miles and have heard more and less depending upon the dealer. The oil will look pretty clean on the dipstick but when you drain it out woooow it will be pretty dark. Don't change it too soon or you will not be breaking in the engine enough. Hot weather is not as bad as winter weather. The engines today in quality cars like these have very good piston seals on the rings so the oil does last a lot longer than in the older cars years ago. Going 5000 on regular is probably ok if you are not racing it all the time but you are better off in the long run to use a good synthetic for a little better gas mileage. When in doubt read the manual that came with your car from the manufacturer.

I got tired of figuring out what to do with the waste oil that I collected from my last car - this time I changed to Synlube for the first oil change and now I don't have to change it again for 150k or 15 years. Only a couple of filter changes at 36k and 75k -crazy huh! They use Sylube on the Moon and Mars rovers and guess why . . . No one is going to the Moon or Mars to do an oil change.

yea the dealer here doesn't know what grade of oil the car uses, I'm glad my 4 free are over

@ Tobo: I really wouldn't trust any of those guys at the auto parts stores

@Jan06xB: hmm... see what confuses me is that my dealer is says 5k for my FIRST oil change. That's the normal interval for a dealer change, and sort of what confuses me. I mean, after break-in you should need an "early" oil change, right?

Here's what I'm starting to think: not only are engines manufactured much better so as to reduce the metal shavings and such after break-in, but they're also run at the factory - in effect, Toyota has done most of our "break-in" for us.

What do you think? Regardless, I'm still going to the dealership in about two weeks after finals and buying a filter, and doing my own change. I'm at about 1960 miles now.

I just hope that "special seal" that everyone says is on the oil filter for the first oil change doesn't get in the way of my first oil change.

You have a tC which has a more powerful motor than the xB which ends up working pretty hard compared to the tC. I have heard numbers all over the place for the first change - best way to tell is to feel the oil - if it is still slippery then it is still good - if it soaks into your skin and disapears then it is beat. LOL

I did my first and last oil change at 3600 only because I had to wait for an overnight drain to get as much of the Dino oil out before I put the Synlube in - even jacked up the left side to drain the pan better. Now I have 10100 miles and it just keeps running better every time I drive it.

Filters is another story and the Toyota ones are great but I have a more expensive and bigger one that filters 5-8 micron particles and still has high volume oil flow.

Watch out for the Mobile1 oils as they now have several different grades and some require changing sooner.

just curious.......how much is the synlube and where do you get it?

Engine Lube $32 qt x4 Initial fill
AddOil $20 for topping off when it needs more
Filter was $24
PowerSteering $40
M Tranny $30 I think
Then there were some Neo Magnets for the filter outside. Total was about $265 with a discount for getting all the lubes at once. They have a lot of info at the website including how much you will save over the life of the vehicle compared to regular oil changes plus you get a little better gas mileage which saves a lot more.

www.synlube.com

So... when you guys talk about filling the oil filter so that car has oil when first started...


what do you mean exactly? How does one do that?

(please feel free to laugh at my lack of car knowledge now... ;))

So... when you guys talk about filling the oil filter so that car has oil when first started...


what do you mean exactly? How does one do that?

(please feel free to laugh at my lack of car knowledge now... ;))
Just pour some oil into the oil filter, not to the top.. just a spash or two. And be sure to coat the o-ring surface with clean oil as well.

noooooo you slowly pour oil into the center hole of the filter where the threads are and keep pouring slowly as the oil passes through the filter element filling the outside of the filter element space until no more oil can go into the filter - should be about 1/3 of a quart then wet the gasket with a light coating of FRESH oil. Clean the bottom of of the oil filter mount where the gasket hits on the engine filter flange with a clean cloth or paper towel without ripping the towel and then without spilling the oil out of the filter carefully screw it onto the engine and tighten according to the instructions - one says half a turn the other says 2/3 of a turn . . . I usually go 2/3 turn.

... changed to Synlube for the first oil change and now I don't have to change it again for 150k or 15 years. Only a couple of filter changes at 36k and 75k -crazy huh! They use Sylube on the Moon and Mars rovers and guess why . . . No one is going to the Moon or Mars to do an oil change.
The Rover isn't the only one on the moon ;-)

You talking about the alien base on the back side?

Funny thing today I got the Maint Service Required light flashing - guess it is time to reset it - don't need an oil change LOL!

Let me tell you a bit about changing my oil today. I am at 4900 miles and switched to Mobile 1 and Toyota filter. But damn did that dealer ship put the filter on too tight. I had to drop the bottom scatch protectors and then stab the filter with a screw driver. Made a ____ing mess in my driveway, plus ____ed me off. I am not sure it was worth it all!!!

If it was your first oil change it was done by the factory.

I did a Prius oil change for a friend and couldn't even get the filter off or get a grip on it - there is no room to get fingers between the filter and the engine block plus it is smaller than the usual filter wrenches.

How long can I reasonably go using Mobil 1 syn and the OEM oil filter. I am at 5000 now, but was hoping to get to 7500. Is that bad?

How long can I reasonably go using Mobil 1 syn and the OEM oil filter. I am at 5000 now, but was hoping to get to 7500... You can change now or wait. There are no rules, and it's a personal decision. Some people feel they can go 10K miles, and Mobil would not disagree. On my new Forester, Subaru says synthetic must be changed at the same interval as regular oil, which for them is 7500 miles. Personally, I change my cheap Pennzoil synthetic at 2500 miles on both xB and Forester for daily driving. If I was on a long trip, I would go as far as 5000 miles.
But you can see how it is really up to you, to do what makes you feel best.

How long can I reasonably go using Mobil 1 syn and the OEM oil filter. I am at 5000 now, but was hoping to get to 7500. Is that bad?

It really depends on the type of driving you do. Today, almost all driving is done under "severe service" conditions, which requires a more frequent OCI than driving done under "ideal conditions". Severe service is defined as:

-Trips less than 10 miles (16.09 kilometers)
-Driving in dust and sand
-Cold weather that prevents full engine warmup
-Idling for extended periods
-Stop-and-go driving
-Pulling trailers
-Heavy loads
-Operating in any other heavy-duty and severe service, such as sustained high-speed driving in hot weather.

For "severe" service, most owner's manuals recommend an oil change every 3,000 miles or 90 days. That is a safe OCI, synthetic or not.

Motor oil in the engine becomes contaminated with many things including blow-by, condensation, fuel, dust, metallic shavings, and sometimes even antifreeze. The contaminant, especially those that are liquid, are not completely removed by the oil filter. As they are whipped into the oil, sludge is formed. Also he additive package is consumed, used up or destroyed as the engine operates. When the additive package is destroyed, it becomes a contaminant; it doesn't just evaporate or disappear. If it is not removed at good service intervals, it could possibly become a catalyst to sludge formation.

Personally, I change my cheap Pennzoil synthetic at 2500 miles on both xB and Forester for daily driving. If I was on a long trip, I would go as far as 5000 miles.
But you can see how it is really up to you, to do what makes you feel best.

You are not talking about Pennzoil Platinum are you? That is one of the best performing synthetic oils available, superior to M1 and has to ability to easily reach 10,000 miles.

Just want to clarify!

You are not talking about Pennzoil Platinum are you? That is one of the best performing synthetic oils available, superior to M1 and has to ability to easily reach 10,000 miles.

Just want to clarify!

Thats a blanket statement and is incorrect unless you know that persons driving habits.

How do you figure? I am not telling him to go 10,000 miles I am just saying that it can easily reach that. Most run 7500 it seems on PP and the UOA's it returns are excellent.

I was mostly commenting on his Pennzoil quality, not the mileage you can go on it, that was just an example. PP is an amazing oil.

How do you figure?

Look at the 4th post above this one.

I disagree with you man.

I understand what your trying to say, but today's engines are much better on oil then in the past and can go to 5,000 under more severe conditions without any problem, on CONVENTIONAL oil. Remember, oil has also gotten much better then in the past as well and can withstand much more "abuse". If you want to change at every 3,000 go ahead, but im just saying it's just not needed. I would do it just because I like to if I wasn't running synthetic.

If your using conventional oil, 3,000-3,500 miles is fine I guess, but still a waste of money. Go 5,000 without worry as it will do just fine in the engine safely.

If using synthetic, your silly to do anything LESS then 5,000 miles... Otherwise, just use conventional.

I disagree with you man..

No worries - that’s what we are here for, debate and gaining insight.

I understand what your trying to say, but today's engines are much better on oil then in the past and can go to 5,000 under more severe conditions without any problem, on CONVENTIONAL oil. Remember, oil has also gotten much better then in the past as well and can withstand much more "abuse". If you want to change at every 3,000 go ahead, but im just saying it's just not needed. I would do it just because I like to if I wasn't running synthetic...

Again, you are making blanket statements. Oil selection and OCI is not a one-size-fits-all type of thing. For example, high silicone levels normally be traced to a problem with your air intake. Lead from gasoline can cause the most advanced add-packs to fail well before 5K miles….how many of us really know how much lead is in our favorite gas? The best oil in the world can be ruined by bad gas. The only way to really KNOW whats going on w/ your oil is to have a UOA done on it which gives you not only percentages of wear metals, but contaminants as well (Fuel dilution, blow-by gases, oil oxidation, etc.). 90% of the people I talk to dont even know what UOA is, yet they continue to spew forth all kinds of uneducated advice.

Sludge formation - it has nothing to do with the original base stocks used in oils but more to do with:

1. When oil isn't changed frequently enough, oil is eventually whipped together with contaminants and it bakes (oxidizes).

2. Contamination (blow-by, condensation, fuel, dust, metallic shavings, antifreeze) mixed into the oil. Example: during a routine valve cover gasket replacement, antifreeze could accidentally run or drip into the oil, creating large amounts of sludge very rapidly.

Oil (even synthetic) is cheap. Engine work is not.


If your using conventional oil, 3,000-3,500 miles is fine I guess, but still a waste of money. Go 5,000 without worry as it will do just fine in the engine safely..

More blanket statements. What if I drive 3000 miles a year, would you still think a 3K mile OCI is a good idea? Do you really understand just how much of that oil is actually unburnt fuel?

If using synthetic, your silly to do anything LESS then 5,000 miles... Otherwise, just use conventional.

Im beginning to see a theme here. Im not trying to dog on you man, but you should do some more research on motor oil, which does NOT mean listening to your "friends" on your favorite online forum.

Im not trying to make blank insight at all, I just was never descriptive enough when my explanations.

I agree with you that there is much more to it then just one-size-fits-all. Time, usage, etc... Are all factors in the oil. I was just giving general statements and not really go in too deeply into the subject.

Synthetic or not, there are many factors like you said that contribute to the oil life. And again I agree that oil is cheap compared to any engine work (obviously!).

In the end, we all have our preferences and opinions to share with others. We all just want the best for our engines and is not worth figuring out who is right or wrong. It all comes down to taste.

Happy changin'!

Na Zdrowie!

Haha, you polish too? :rofl:

Haha, you polish too? :rofl:

Nope, but I love the country...er...OK, I :love: the women of your country!

As an avid traveller, I like to learn 'Cheers!' in every country I visit.

You bet your dupa I'm Polish - actually I was raised Polish but actually my grandparents on my fathers side were from the Ukraine / Austria region depending upon what time in history you looked at boarders that moved around.
So just an update the Synlube I have in my xB has been in for 17,560 miles and my mileage is still averaging above 40mpg.

I used K&N filter with Mobil 1 for the tC.

I've noticed the K&N and TRD look the same except TRD is black color. But they both have the wrench nut.

I was having hard time to get the channel-locks to the filter so I noticed unscrewing the plastic tire guard would give you alot more room. Sure enough, it worked!

George said: After you loosen the filter a bit, put a big ziplock bag over it before you take it off. The ziplock bag will catch most of the drippage. You just remove the filter and zip up the bag!

GREAT TIP !!!! THANKS GEORGE ! I can't wait to try that on my next oil change!!!

"Install the filter with 3/4 turn after the gasket touches. You can do this by hand without the wrench. Geeze, that filter is teeny!"

Hey GEORGE, it does not have to be that 'teeny'.
Get the longer Toyota OEM filters off E-BAY, (See photo, our XB's can use the stubby 90915-yzzf2 or the longer 90915-yzzf1) 10 for $30 plus $10 shipping, see link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Scion-xB-2004-2007-Oil-Filter-10-OEM-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ33661QQihZ021QQitemZ310082383077QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
http://i20.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/0b/5f/2d24_1.JPG

That's an interesting idea. The longer filter would also be easier to get hold of to remove, possibly allowing the use of a conventional oil filter wrench rather than a cap wrench.

When I said "teeny" I was thinking in comparison to the quart-size filters used by older cars like 510s, Even the longer filter is still "teeny" by comparison! :)

From what I understand the newer engines have a much smaller volume oil flow - remember it is only 1.5 liters - so it doesn't need a big filter.

From what I understand the newer engines have a much smaller volume oil flow - remember it is only 1.5 liters - so it doesn't need a big filter.

You may have a point. My '72 Datsun 510 used a full-size 1-quart filter on a 1600CC engine, but back then the only filters available were the large ones. Also, we tended to user higher viscosity oils, so it wouldn't pass through the media as readily.