http://www.autoblog.com/entry/1234000780063745/

This was a long time coming. Scion had announced the supercharger at the tC’s debut, but had left enthusiasts hanging for the TRD part to officially go on sale. The centrifugal supercharger is designed to provide 200 horsepower, which is a 25% increase in peak horsepower. Peak torque output is also claimed to rise 13%, with torque increasing right to redline. The supercharger is available for manual transmission cars only through TRD. Retail pricing is set at $3200, plus installation. Thanks to Rocket Punch for the tip; the full press release can be found at the jump.

Toyota Racing Development (TRD) and Scion announced today that a TRD supercharger for the Scion tC sports coupe will be available through dealerships beginning today. The TRD supercharger will help the stock tC’s 160-horsepower engine put out up to 200 horsepower and increase maximum torque up to 13 percent.

This all-new TRD supercharger is compatible with both 2005 and 2006 model year Scion tC sports coupes with manual transmissions.
This centrifugal supercharger, which produces seven pounds of boost, was chosen for its compact configuration, ease of installation on the tC and smooth power delivery characteristics.

The supercharger, when installed by an authorized Scion or Toyota dealer, falls under the same powertrain warranty of five years or 60,000 miles, or the balance of the new car warranty, whichever is greater. When not installed by a dealer, the supercharger is covered by a 12-month, 12,000-mile parts-only warranty.

The manufacturer’s suggested retail price of the TRD supercharger is $3,200, not including installation.

check the scion site or trd site, it says its here.

yea i heard the official press release today that it is available now . i personally saw it.

the manual tCs can get it right now.

scott

I talked with Michael Kennedy, an executive at SET Scion and he verified that the TRD supercharger for the tC was released on 10/17/05. Only 11 months late :clap:

http://www.trdusa.com/tcsupercharger.asp
<---- not wrong

I actually drove one with the supercharger in it last week, the car was brought in to the dealership i work for by my regional scion rep. I now truly believe the tC needs traction control or something cause if you punch it in first it just spins the tires for ever and it has so much torque that the torque steer is crazy (keep in mind that this is the first supercharged vehicle ive ever driven) i personally own a 06 tC and dont think i will be geting it put in mostly because its just costs too much for my budget, and im past the "racing on the highway" stage in my life (i think :P ) , i also dont want to have to use premium fuel in the car and make my gass mileage go lower than it already is (24-26mpg) so thats my take on it but if you are into makig your car go fast while still having your waranty intact this thing is sure to put a smile on your face.

tru http://pressroom.toyota.com/Releases/View?id=TYT2005101455573

I talked with Michael Kennedy, an executive at SET Scion and he verified that the TRD supercharger for the tC was released on 10/17/05. Only 11 months late :clap:

i second this info...Mike advised our delaer of the same info... :eyebrow:

So, at this rate, they should have one available for the xB by....... 2011??? :tap:

Yep, it's here. First one came off the truck about half an hour ago. It's already sold, but we're still waiting for a couple of tools for installation. Should roll next week. But not without me driving it around the block a few times.

SCION OF LEWISVILLE

*RANT MODE ON*
Why must you make my scionlife a house of lies?

LIar! LIARS ALL!!!!! Filthy stinking liars! There is NO TRD supercharger!

All the other websites are lies! TRD has been hacked. There never was a TRD supercharger, There is no TRD supercharger, There never will be a TRD supercharger!

Filthy rotten stinking liars! The TRD supercharger is vaporware! Vaporware I say!!!! VAAAAPPPPPOOOOORRRRRRWWWWWAAAAARRRREEEE!

(blood vessel bursts)
(Ed passes out)
*RANT MODE OFF*

No, really?

I'm not really a serious gearhead, and opted for an auto transmission. Can someone explain why the supercharger won't work with an auto transmission?

Thanks,
Eric

Good question; the supercharger won't work on the automatic because a manual and automatic operate differently and use different systems; I'm sure it gets pretty tight under the hood with the supercharger due to the angle of the engine and the different bracketry holding the different trans to the car. If TRD went to the trouble to make a supercharger that it will just have a different kit and part number so that the brackets clear the different tranny in all the right places. Guess we'll have to wait and see.

I'm sure either TRD or the aftermarket will come out with a nice 1.0/1.5 limited slip for the tC. Hopefully Scion will be able to make it a factory option, which will help people who race in SCCA classes (then it would run in STX instead of STS?). tC vs Sube Impreza ... hmmm.

there WILL be a kit for the auto tC to have the supercharger.. it's probably just some brackets.. and a different re-program for the computer.. mcgeorgeparts.com shows the part no..PART # PTR01-21050-89 FOR AUTO TRANS MODELS (coming soon not avail yet)
(from their website)..

so yeah it'll be here soon.. hopefully NOT another year but soon..

So, at this rate, they should have one available for the xB by....... 2011??? :tap: :silly: xboxies and xaeros get blitz SCs. dont worry about us :eyebrow:

Yep, it's here. First one came off the truck about half an hour ago. It's already sold, but we're still waiting for a couple of tools for installation. Should roll next week. But not without me driving it around the block a few times.

SCION OF LEWISVILLE

did everyone miss this? i hope it's not a customers car you're gonna be driving around the block a few times........

I'm sure it'll be just for testing purposes - YEAH RIGHT.

wow and i thought it would never come

I'm sure it'll be just for testing purposes - YEAH RIGHT.

Well, somebody's got to. 8)

well as a technician part of the process of installing or even fixing a car is the test drive.

:bow:
:rofl:
:blah:

I don't know what to do/think/say! I just wish I could afford it! :doh:

Think MK will give me one for being such a good scion representative... :) :nails:

Maybe for coming up with the scions owners events name.... hmmm.. :eyebrow:

HEY MIKE! I WANT ONE! PLEASE !
:pray: :pray: :pray: :pray: :pray: :pray: :pray: :pray:

I will be good I promise! I will be nice in the scionman999 forum..... I won't make jokes when Dan is out of the Office, I will play nice with ARK, STU, JOSE, and everybody, Promise. PLEASE! :pray: :pray: :pray: :pray: :pray:

well as a technician part of the process of installing or even fixing a car is the test drive.

Yeah... what he said ;)

And for the guy who asked about getting the supercharger with the auto-trans... it fits on just the same as the one for manuals... no big deal, so yes, you'll be able to have a power increase too.

watching

,,, wat are you watching ? this thread is from 2005

watching

,,, wat are you watching ? this thread is from 2005
any updates

,,, wat are you watching ? this thread is from 2005 ROFL :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

... wat u mean updates... lots of people have superchargers now lmao

bump

omg.... haha

lol why do u keep bumpin old threads haha

Ah, man. I should have know this was you!
Your a JACKASS!

Hey, you meeting up on Saturday to check out your future turbo kit? I'm going to try to have my gauges in.

... wat u mean updates... lots of people have superchargers now lmao dude theyre not even out
Ah, man. I should have know this was you!
Your a JACKASS!

Hey, you meeting up on Saturday to check out your future turbo kit? I'm going to try to have my gauges in.
only me lol.
ya, i want to check your kit out but im too lazy. i might ride along with chris or someone else to the meet. have you talked to todd lately?

... wat u mean updates... lots of people have superchargers now lmao dude theyre not even out

what do you mean they arent even out yet? You must be confusing this with the 08' supercharger, which hasnt been confirmed but should be the same as the 07' setup. The 05-06' supercharger has been out for years now and thats what this thread was confirming...the availability of the 05-06'

... wat u mean updates... lots of people have superchargers now lmao dude theyre not even out

what do you mean they arent even out yet? You must be confusing this with the 08' supercharger, which hasnt been confirmed but should be the same as the 07' setup. The 05-06' supercharger has been out for years now and thats what this thread was confirming...the availability of the 05-06'
oh man! your saying that there are supercharged tCs drving around?

^^ :rofl: :rofl: ^^

yeah gawd they been our for awhile :rofl:

but with all seriousnesses any updates plz :pray:

UPDATE


ther trd supercharger will be coming out this october. retail price will be about $600. performance gains will net 430whp/400lbs on 87 octane pump gas. the unit will be powered by a hobbit, and two hampsters.

trd stated that the instalation of the supercharger will come with a free reflash, by way of there special ecu reflash hammer. :bow: :clap:

bump for the updates :rofl:

UPDATE


ther trd supercharger will be coming out this october. retail price will be about $600. performance gains will net 430whp/400lbs on 87 octane pump gas. the unit will be powered by a hobbit, and two hampsters.

trd stated that the instalation of the supercharger will come with a free reflash, by way of there special ecu reflash hammer. :bow: :clap:
confirmed. ive checked out the trd handbook 101, and it seems that the hobbits will even do the labor. keep the updates coming.

am bump

Your a JACKASS!


watch ur language....

Your a JACKASS!


watch ur language....
watching

Ah, you've been waiting for that one, haven't you!!!

^^it was staged and set up. sorta like pool chemicals are available to solve almost all water problems, they can be dangerous to humans and animals if handled improperly. Chemicals can cause skin and eye damage and can be fatal if swallowed. To keep yourself and your pool safe follow these pool chemical safety precautions:

Keep all pool products away from children and animals.


Wear rubber gloves and goggles and wash clothes and hands immediately after handling chemicals. If your skin comes in contact with any chemicals, flush immediately with cold water for 15 minutes and call a physician.


Follow the dosage directions and safety precautions listed on the pool product label.


Store chemicals according to the manufacturer's instructions.


Never return spilled material to the original container or place in the household garbage.


Use clean, dry measuring equipment for chemicals. Rinse all measuring equipment after using.


Do not mix spa, pool or household chemicals together.


Add chemicals to water. Do not add water to chemicals. Adding water to chemicals contaminates the entire container.


Do not allow dry chlorine to become damp or wet.


Keep open flames away from pool chemicals.


Do not reuse empty containers. Check with local, state and federal regulations for proper disposal.


Discard any unused chemicals after closing your pool. Follow local ordinances for disposing of hazardous materials. Buy new chemicals when you re-open the pool.


Pool Volume
One of the most important things to know is your pool's volume. The volume determines the proper pool equipment and chemicals. Always read the chemical labels when purchasing and using. Length and width are crucial to determining the volume. Below are basic pool shapes and formulas to calculate your pool's volume.

Area = (L x W) (R x R x 3.14)
Volume = area x average depth x 7.48
Area = R x R x 3.14
Volume = area x average depth x 7.48
Area = (A + B) x L x 0.45 (approx.)
Volume = area x average depth x 7.48
Area = A x B x 3.14
Volume = area x average depth x 7.48
Area = L x W
Volume = area x average depth x 7.48


Pool Tools
The right pool tools make maintenance easier. Make sure you have these basics:

Test kits for pH, free available chlorine, total alkalinity and calcium hardness


Telepole extender


Leaf rake/skimmer


Vinyl liner or concrete pool vacuum head


Wall and floor brush


Tile brush


Testing Your Pool Water
Use test kits to measure for free available chlorine, pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness. Below are suggested ranges for healthy water.

Good idea: Rinse test kit vials with pool water between each test to get more consistent readings.



Elements
Appropriate Ranges- parts per million (ppm)*

pH
7.2-7.6

Free Available Chlorine
1.0-3.0 PPM

Total Alkalinity
80-120 PPM

Calcium Hardness
200-500 PPM


*Recommended element levels vary based on product specifications; follow manufacturer's instructions.

The following are brief descriptions and treatment suggestions to keep your water elements balanced.

pH determines the water's acidity. Maintain pH for equipment and swimmer protection. If the pH is less than 7.2, use sodium hypochlorite to raise it. If the pH is higher than 7.6, use granular acid to lower it.



Free available chlorine kills bacteria, algae and most viruses. It also eliminates grease and oil. If the free available chlorine is too low, add a shock treatment. A shock treatment is a high concentration of chlorine. Shocking adds 5.0-10.0 PPM of free available chlorine to pool water. Test and balance the pH before doing a shock treatment. Shock treat after sundown with the pump and filter turned on. After a shock treatment, test the free available chlorine. Do not enter the pool until the reading is 1.0-3.0 PPM. If it is too high, allow the chlorine to evaporate naturally.



Total alkalinity is the measurement of the water’s ability to maintain the proper pH level. If total alkalinity is too high or too low, use an alkalinity adjuster.



Calcium hardness is a measurement of calcium in the pool. If the water is too hard, it can raise pH levels and cause scale to form. To solve this problem, add sodium hexametaphosphate. If the water is too soft, it can cause tile grout to dissolve or the vinyl liner to crack. Add calcium chloride dihydrate in this situation.


Good idea: When testing your pool water, take samples 12"-18" below the surface.


Opening Your Pool
When it's time to open your pool, remember the following:

Remove accumulated water or debris on top before taking the pool cover off.


Clean and dry the pool cover before storing.


Reattach and hook up all pool operating equipment. Unplug and uncover all openings.


Clean all equipment, including drains and skimmers.


Remove all debris from the pool.


Scrub and vacuum the pool walls and floor to remove any algae or scum.


Add water to bring the pool level up.


Test and adjust the water for pH, calcium hardness, free available chlorine and total alkalinity.


High levels of chlorine are present in all covered pools. Allow 24-48 hours for the high concentration of chlorine to evaporate before using the pool.


Turn on the filter and pump. Allow them to run for 3-4 hours.


Check the skimmers, drains and filters for proper function.


Vacuum and remove remaining debris.


Retest pH and free available chlorine. If free available chlorine is low, use a shock treatment and retest. Make sure free available chlorine is between 1.0-3.0 PPM


General Maintenance
Clean water and balanced water chemistry are the keys to pool maintenance. Establish a weekly routine to clean the pool and maintain the chemical balance. A shock treatment solves and prevents the majority of pool problems. Test the pH and free available chlorine in the pool water and shock treat, if necessary, on a weekly basis. Do an additional shock treatment if any of the following occurs:

Very heavy rains and windstorms


More swimmers than usual


Foul odor from pool water


Extreme temperatures


Swimmers with burning, red eyes


Algae growth


Murky, slimy water


Keeping the Pool Clean
Plan to spend at least six to eight hours per week on pool upkeep.

Daily:

Skim debris out of the pool.


Clean all skimmer baskets during swimming season.
Weekly:

Test the water.


Clean the walls and floor. Use cleaners, brushes and vacuums recommended by the pool manufacturer. Start at the shallow end and continue to the deep end. Overlap each stroke when vacuuming and brushing to cover all areas thoroughly. Always keep the vacuum head under water while in use. To speed up the process, dedicate 10 minutes a day to brushing down the walls.


Hose down the pool area after cleaning and before using. Direct the spray away from the pool to prevent dirt from washing into the water.


Cleaning After a Storm
Summer storms can catch you off guard, but if you know a storm is approaching, cover the pool and anchor the sides of the cover with water bags or sandbags. If you have an automatic cleaner, turn it on. If you don't have time to prepare, follow these steps to clean up:

Hose down the deck, spray away from the pool.


Remove all debris from the water surface with the skimmer.


Turn on the pump.


Brush the walls and floor. Push the dirt toward the drain.


Vacuum the pool completely.


Wait 20 minutes and vacuum the pool again to get all remaining dirt.


Test pH and adjust if necessary.


Water Problems and Solutions
All pool owners want clean and healthy water, but even with regular testing and cleaning, water problems arise from time to time. Listed below are problems you may encounter and solutions to fix them.

Problem
Symptom
Cause
Solution

Algae
Slippery pool surfaces
Not enough free available chlorine
Adjust pH between 7.2-7.6.


Use a shock treatment.


Scrub and vacuum walls and floor.


Run filter continuously for 24 hours.

Stains
Discolored liner or pool sides
Debris


Metal objects


Algae


Mineral deposits
Remove the object causing the stains.


Adjust pH between 7.2-7.6.


Scrub the stain with a chlorine solution.

Scale
White, gray or brown deposits on pool walls and metal objects
Total Alkalinity above 120 PPM


pH above 7.6


Calcium hardness above 500 PPM
Balance the water.


Add a chemical that prevents minerals from depositing on surfaces.


For serious scale problems, contact a professional.

Cloudy or Discolored Water
Green, black, purple, red, brown or cloudy water
High pH


High total alkalinity


Extreme algae growth


Poor filtration


Buildup of swimmer waste
Adjust pH between 7.2-7.6.


Adjust total alkalinity between 80-120 PPM.


Use a shock treatment.


Use an algaecide for algae growth.


Use stain/scale treatment.


Check filters for proper operation or increase filter running time.

Eye and Skin Irritation
Red eyes and dry, itchy skin
Improper pH and chlorine levels
Adjust pH between 7.2-7.6.


Use a shock treatment.

Chlorine Odor
Strong smell of chlorine
Certain chemicals can react producing a strong chlorine smell even though there is not enough free available chlorine.
Adjust pH between 7.2-7.6.


Use a shock treatment.

Excessive Chlorine
Bleached hair and swimsuits

Eye irritation
Too much chlorine added


Not enough sunlight
Free available chlorine levels should be 1.0-3.0 PPM. Sunlight helps to lower chlorine levels.

Corrosion of Metal Parts
Corroded metal pieces
Low pH


Low total alkalinity


Low calcium hardness
Adjust pH to 7.2-7.6.


Adjust total alkalinity to 80-120 PPM.


Raise calcium hardness to at least 200 PPM.

Scum Ring or Foaming
Scum ring or foaming around the pool
Body oil and dirt accumulate forming a scum ring or foam.
Test and adjust pH to 7.2-7.6.


Use a tile and vinyl cleaner to treat the scum ring.


Use a defoamer for foaming.


Check filter for proper operation.


Swimmers should rinse off before entering the pool.



Closing your Pool
The climate in your region determines the steps you take when closing your pool. One important thing to remember is do not drain a vinyl-lined, concrete or plaster pool. Draining the pool can cause the liner to stretch or the concrete to actually lift out of the ground. Take the proper steps to save time and money.


Closing Your Pool in Cold Regions
Close your pool when the evening temperatures drop into the 40's and daytime temperatures are between 60° and 70°. Remember to follow manufacturer's instructions.

Adjust pH level between 7.2 and 7.6.


Use a shock treatment on the pool.


Remove, clean and store any pool ladders, diving boards, ropes and furniture.


Turn off heater.


Run the filter continuously for one to two days.


Brush and vacuum the pool walls and floor. Remove debris.


Pour pool antifreeze into the pump and allow it to cycle through the system for two minutes.


Unscrew the fittings on the return lines. Plug them with expandable rubber plugs.


Drain the water level in your pool with a submersible pump to 18" below the skimmers.


Flush and drain hoses.


Drain, clean and store all equipment indoors, including the filter, pump and motor to prevent freezing.


Turn off electricity to the pool.


Retest pH and free available chlorine levels.


Coat exposed metal, such as permanent ladders, with petroleum jelly to protect from rust.



Use water bags to hold the cover in place.
Cover the entire pool with a water, weather and chemical-resistant pool cover. Use water bags or sand bags to secure sheet vinyl covers. If you use water bags, fill them halfway to allow for expansion when they freeze. For above ground pools in regions with high winds, place water bags or sandbags on top of cover around the edge of the pool. Place 2/3 of the bag on the cover and 1/3 of the bag hanging over the edge to keep the cover from blowing up.


Retest pH and free available chlorine levels at least once every month and adjust if necessary.


Additional Protection
Float large pieces of Styrofoam in the pool to reduce ice damage to vinyl-lined pools.


Fill plastic milk jugs with 3" to 4" of gravel and place one in each skimmer. If the skimmer fills with water and freezes, the ice compresses the jug and does not crack the skimmer.


Fill three plastic milk jugs one-fourth full of water. Float the jugs in the pool. If the pool water freezes, the ice crushes the jugs and not the walls of the pool.


Closing Your Pool in Warm Regions
In warm regions, pools don't need to be completely closed. Covering your pool is recommended to reduce debris. Read pool equipment manufacturer's information for proper care during the off-season. Follow the steps below for regular maintenance.

Adjust the filter cycle to half the normal setting.


Check the pH and free available chlorine weekly. Keep the pH between 7.2-7.6. Do a shock treatment to keep the free available chlorine between 1.0-3.0 PPM


Clean the skimmer weekly.

in conclusion, the trd supercharger is now available

^^it was staged and set up. sorta like pool chemicals are available to solve almost all water problems, they can be dangerous to humans and animals if handled improperly. Chemicals can cause skin and eye damage and can be fatal if swallowed. To keep yourself and your pool safe follow these pool chemical safety precautions:

Keep all pool products away from children and animals.


Wear rubber gloves and goggles and wash clothes and hands immediately after handling chemicals. If your skin comes in contact with any chemicals, flush immediately with cold water for 15 minutes and call a physician.


Follow the dosage directions and safety precautions listed on the pool product label.


Store chemicals according to the manufacturer's instructions.


Never return spilled material to the original container or place in the household garbage.


Use clean, dry measuring equipment for chemicals. Rinse all measuring equipment after using.


Do not mix spa, pool or household chemicals together.


Add chemicals to water. Do not add water to chemicals. Adding water to chemicals contaminates the entire container.


Do not allow dry chlorine to become damp or wet.


Keep open flames away from pool chemicals.


Do not reuse empty containers. Check with local, state and federal regulations for proper disposal.


Discard any unused chemicals after closing your pool. Follow local ordinances for disposing of hazardous materials. Buy new chemicals when you re-open the pool.


Pool Volume
One of the most important things to know is your pool's volume. The volume determines the proper pool equipment and chemicals. Always read the chemical labels when purchasing and using. Length and width are crucial to determining the volume. Below are basic pool shapes and formulas to calculate your pool's volume.

Area = (L x W) (R x R x 3.14)
Volume = area x average depth x 7.48
Area = R x R x 3.14
Volume = area x average depth x 7.48
Area = (A + B) x L x 0.45 (approx.)
Volume = area x average depth x 7.48
Area = A x B x 3.14
Volume = area x average depth x 7.48
Area = L x W
Volume = area x average depth x 7.48


Pool Tools
The right pool tools make maintenance easier. Make sure you have these basics:

Test kits for pH, free available chlorine, total alkalinity and calcium hardness


Telepole extender


Leaf rake/skimmer


Vinyl liner or concrete pool vacuum head


Wall and floor brush


Tile brush


Testing Your Pool Water
Use test kits to measure for free available chlorine, pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness. Below are suggested ranges for healthy water.

Good idea: Rinse test kit vials with pool water between each test to get more consistent readings.



Elements
Appropriate Ranges- parts per million (ppm)*

pH
7.2-7.6

Free Available Chlorine
1.0-3.0 PPM

Total Alkalinity
80-120 PPM

Calcium Hardness
200-500 PPM


*Recommended element levels vary based on product specifications; follow manufacturer's instructions.

The following are brief descriptions and treatment suggestions to keep your water elements balanced.

pH determines the water's acidity. Maintain pH for equipment and swimmer protection. If the pH is less than 7.2, use sodium hypochlorite to raise it. If the pH is higher than 7.6, use granular acid to lower it.



Free available chlorine kills bacteria, algae and most viruses. It also eliminates grease and oil. If the free available chlorine is too low, add a shock treatment. A shock treatment is a high concentration of chlorine. Shocking adds 5.0-10.0 PPM of free available chlorine to pool water. Test and balance the pH before doing a shock treatment. Shock treat after sundown with the pump and filter turned on. After a shock treatment, test the free available chlorine. Do not enter the pool until the reading is 1.0-3.0 PPM. If it is too high, allow the chlorine to evaporate naturally.



Total alkalinity is the measurement of the water’s ability to maintain the proper pH level. If total alkalinity is too high or too low, use an alkalinity adjuster.



Calcium hardness is a measurement of calcium in the pool. If the water is too hard, it can raise pH levels and cause scale to form. To solve this problem, add sodium hexametaphosphate. If the water is too soft, it can cause tile grout to dissolve or the vinyl liner to crack. Add calcium chloride dihydrate in this situation.


Good idea: When testing your pool water, take samples 12"-18" below the surface.


Opening Your Pool
When it's time to open your pool, remember the following:

Remove accumulated water or debris on top before taking the pool cover off.


Clean and dry the pool cover before storing.


Reattach and hook up all pool operating equipment. Unplug and uncover all openings.


Clean all equipment, including drains and skimmers.


Remove all debris from the pool.


Scrub and vacuum the pool walls and floor to remove any algae or scum.


Add water to bring the pool level up.


Test and adjust the water for pH, calcium hardness, free available chlorine and total alkalinity.


High levels of chlorine are present in all covered pools. Allow 24-48 hours for the high concentration of chlorine to evaporate before using the pool.


Turn on the filter and pump. Allow them to run for 3-4 hours.


Check the skimmers, drains and filters for proper function.


Vacuum and remove remaining debris.


Retest pH and free available chlorine. If free available chlorine is low, use a shock treatment and retest. Make sure free available chlorine is between 1.0-3.0 PPM


General Maintenance
Clean water and balanced water chemistry are the keys to pool maintenance. Establish a weekly routine to clean the pool and maintain the chemical balance. A shock treatment solves and prevents the majority of pool problems. Test the pH and free available chlorine in the pool water and shock treat, if necessary, on a weekly basis. Do an additional shock treatment if any of the following occurs:

Very heavy rains and windstorms


More swimmers than usual


Foul odor from pool water


Extreme temperatures


Swimmers with burning, red eyes


Algae growth


Murky, slimy water


Keeping the Pool Clean
Plan to spend at least six to eight hours per week on pool upkeep.

Daily:

Skim debris out of the pool.


Clean all skimmer baskets during swimming season.
Weekly:

Test the water.


Clean the walls and floor. Use cleaners, brushes and vacuums recommended by the pool manufacturer. Start at the shallow end and continue to the deep end. Overlap each stroke when vacuuming and brushing to cover all areas thoroughly. Always keep the vacuum head under water while in use. To speed up the process, dedicate 10 minutes a day to brushing down the walls.


Hose down the pool area after cleaning and before using. Direct the spray away from the pool to prevent dirt from washing into the water.


Cleaning After a Storm
Summer storms can catch you off guard, but if you know a storm is approaching, cover the pool and anchor the sides of the cover with water bags or sandbags. If you have an automatic cleaner, turn it on. If you don't have time to prepare, follow these steps to clean up:

Hose down the deck, spray away from the pool.


Remove all debris from the water surface with the skimmer.


Turn on the pump.


Brush the walls and floor. Push the dirt toward the drain.


Vacuum the pool completely.


Wait 20 minutes and vacuum the pool again to get all remaining dirt.


Test pH and adjust if necessary.


Water Problems and Solutions
All pool owners want clean and healthy water, but even with regular testing and cleaning, water problems arise from time to time. Listed below are problems you may encounter and solutions to fix them.

Problem
Symptom
Cause
Solution

Algae
Slippery pool surfaces
Not enough free available chlorine
Adjust pH between 7.2-7.6.


Use a shock treatment.


Scrub and vacuum walls and floor.


Run filter continuously for 24 hours.

Stains
Discolored liner or pool sides
Debris


Metal objects


Algae


Mineral deposits
Remove the object causing the stains.


Adjust pH between 7.2-7.6.


Scrub the stain with a chlorine solution.

Scale
White, gray or brown deposits on pool walls and metal objects
Total Alkalinity above 120 PPM


pH above 7.6


Calcium hardness above 500 PPM
Balance the water.


Add a chemical that prevents minerals from depositing on surfaces.


For serious scale problems, contact a professional.

Cloudy or Discolored Water
Green, black, purple, red, brown or cloudy water
High pH


High total alkalinity


Extreme algae growth


Poor filtration


Buildup of swimmer waste
Adjust pH between 7.2-7.6.


Adjust total alkalinity between 80-120 PPM.


Use a shock treatment.


Use an algaecide for algae growth.


Use stain/scale treatment.


Check filters for proper operation or increase filter running time.

Eye and Skin Irritation
Red eyes and dry, itchy skin
Improper pH and chlorine levels
Adjust pH between 7.2-7.6.


Use a shock treatment.

Chlorine Odor
Strong smell of chlorine
Certain chemicals can react producing a strong chlorine smell even though there is not enough free available chlorine.
Adjust pH between 7.2-7.6.


Use a shock treatment.

Excessive Chlorine
Bleached hair and swimsuits

Eye irritation
Too much chlorine added


Not enough sunlight
Free available chlorine levels should be 1.0-3.0 PPM. Sunlight helps to lower chlorine levels.

Corrosion of Metal Parts
Corroded metal pieces
Low pH


Low total alkalinity


Low calcium hardness
Adjust pH to 7.2-7.6.


Adjust total alkalinity to 80-120 PPM.


Raise calcium hardness to at least 200 PPM.

Scum Ring or Foaming
Scum ring or foaming around the pool
Body oil and dirt accumulate forming a scum ring or foam.
Test and adjust pH to 7.2-7.6.


Use a tile and vinyl cleaner to treat the scum ring.


Use a defoamer for foaming.


Check filter for proper operation.


Swimmers should rinse off before entering the pool.



Closing your Pool
The climate in your region determines the steps you take when closing your pool. One important thing to remember is do not drain a vinyl-lined, concrete or plaster pool. Draining the pool can cause the liner to stretch or the concrete to actually lift out of the ground. Take the proper steps to save time and money.


Closing Your Pool in Cold Regions
Close your pool when the evening temperatures drop into the 40's and daytime temperatures are between 60° and 70°. Remember to follow manufacturer's instructions.

Adjust pH level between 7.2 and 7.6.


Use a shock treatment on the pool.


Remove, clean and store any pool ladders, diving boards, ropes and furniture.


Turn off heater.


Run the filter continuously for one to two days.


Brush and vacuum the pool walls and floor. Remove debris.


Pour pool antifreeze into the pump and allow it to cycle through the system for two minutes.


Unscrew the fittings on the return lines. Plug them with expandable rubber plugs.


Drain the water level in your pool with a submersible pump to 18" below the skimmers.


Flush and drain hoses.


Drain, clean and store all equipment indoors, including the filter, pump and motor to prevent freezing.


Turn off electricity to the pool.


Retest pH and free available chlorine levels.


Coat exposed metal, such as permanent ladders, with petroleum jelly to protect from rust.



Use water bags to hold the cover in place.
Cover the entire pool with a water, weather and chemical-resistant pool cover. Use water bags or sand bags to secure sheet vinyl covers. If you use water bags, fill them halfway to allow for expansion when they freeze. For above ground pools in regions with high winds, place water bags or sandbags on top of cover around the edge of the pool. Place 2/3 of the bag on the cover and 1/3 of the bag hanging over the edge to keep the cover from blowing up.


Retest pH and free available chlorine levels at least once every month and adjust if necessary.


Additional Protection
Float large pieces of Styrofoam in the pool to reduce ice damage to vinyl-lined pools.


Fill plastic milk jugs with 3" to 4" of gravel and place one in each skimmer. If the skimmer fills with water and freezes, the ice compresses the jug and does not crack the skimmer.


Fill three plastic milk jugs one-fourth full of water. Float the jugs in the pool. If the pool water freezes, the ice crushes the jugs and not the walls of the pool.


Closing Your Pool in Warm Regions
In warm regions, pools don't need to be completely closed. Covering your pool is recommended to reduce debris. Read pool equipment manufacturer's information for proper care during the off-season. Follow the steps below for regular maintenance.

Adjust the filter cycle to half the normal setting.


Check the pH and free available chlorine weekly. Keep the pH between 7.2-7.6. Do a shock treatment to keep the free available chlorine between 1.0-3.0 PPM


Clean the skimmer weekly.

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Enough.