WHHHHHAAAA WAAAHHHh hahahhaha


I ordered my S/C.

Im Happy.

Did you order it or do you have it in your possession? If you just ordered it, I doubt you are the 2nd person w/SC in Cali. Not trying to rain on your parade but there is a BIG difference between "ordering" and "having". Congrats on your purchase(?) though and post pix and dynos after install. :bow: :bow: :clap: :clap:

i had mine in my posession this last saturday, so unless someone else oredered it between now and then you might very well be, at any rate congratulations

hah i paid it , i guess ordered. but either way thats great we are the " great 3 "

i do have a receipt to show. :rofl:

I already ordered mine. Mine will be at my house on Thursday. I believe TCarlos is getting his INSTALLED on Thursday. So he may be the FIRST one with it installed. I'm getting mine installed on Friday, maybe Saturday at the latest.

ok i just edited the title.

heres the cali s/c rollcall

1. OutCrnrU ( in possesion )

2. Tikbhoy ( me ) ( paid / waiting for delivery )

3. Who else ?

i got mine yesterday at work and installed it but still waiting on the ecu reflasher to come in so i can reflash my ecu...

how much did you pay? i think imma ask around for discount! :D

gotta love trd connections

i dont care until i see pics, dynos, videos.

Congrats oh and like Duma said pics, dynos, videos!!! :P

pics, dynos, and videos please.

pics, dynos, and videos please.

hah il prolly do a dyno run somewhere in gardena, i gota make a few calls later on. but i doubt i have time to post any vids. coz i shot a vid of my exhaust but i havent edited it out of my dv cam.

thats great tho, that a lot of people are in the process of getting the s/c

can't wait :(

congrats guys, cali guys out front as usual!

congrats guys, cali guys out front as usual!

Actually no. As mentioned above, I ordered mine in the beginning of the week. It was shipped out yesterday. I already have the tracking number. It will be here tomorrow. And I believe TCarloRS1 is getting his INSTALLED tomorrow. We live in the same county on the EAST COAST. Maryland to be exact. Mine will be installed probably Friday.

Well anyway, looks like the East has gotten West beat on this one.

EAST -------- WEST
1 ---------------- 0

As far as number of paid for and shipped SC's I think East is at least at 4 or 5 now, just looking at the forums / talking to the people I know.

But the west got Scions first!!!

:nails: OMG im at the dealer right now and im waiting for them to finish washing my car! ITs installed!!!!!! I should have picked it up over the weekend!

DAMN IT!

I CANT WAIT!


SUPERCHARGER!!! whoooooooooooooooooo

man...i wished they stocked the auto fit kit at my dealer...i would have paid for my S/C already. congrats on getting it though!

now, all i gotta do is wait on the fit kit(ordered from McGeorges), then pay for the S/C plus labor, and get it done someday.

you guys are makin me anxious to get mine, haha

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/52c663b177.jpg

It comes with my own warning sign

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/94ef283d5a.jpg

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/3e8368200d.jpg

Nice! Whats your input on it. worth it? Just happy, super excited? Details! hehe. As I asked the other guy in his post...can u track your MPG and see how much mpg u get, and what miles u have on a 1/2 and full tank? Just trying to compare to stock and learn.

I wonder on a long expressway trip in 5th gear if the mileage would be the same? What are the RPMs like around 70mph?

Everytime I see it... that thing gets bigger and bigger!

Nice! Whats your input on it. worth it? Just happy, super excited? Details! hehe. As I asked the other guy in his post...can u track your MPG and see how much mpg u get, and what miles u have on a 1/2 and full tank? Just trying to compare to stock and learn.

I wonder on a long expressway trip in 5th gear if the mileage would be the same? What are the RPMs like around 70mph?

Its been garaged since i got it. It barely has 2 gallons of 91.

I will surely track the mpg because before i get 320-325 to a full tank and i average from 26-27mpg mix hwy and city.

But i did forgot to say i have to come back to the dealer because the ECM reflash kit was ordered last week and supposedly comes in tommrow, i wont have time tho to get it done til thursday or friday

Everytime I see it... that thing gets bigger and bigger!


LOL thats what she said :rofl:

[quote=piercedlip81]
I will surely track the mpg because before i get 320-325 to a full tank and i average from 26-27mpg mix hwy and city.

nice, so your driving style must be the same, so anxious to see how u do after! The other guy who had it I posted scion-ce maybe? or the other guy said they never even hit 300 a tank...I think I always have! Goodluck ;)

Please dyno it before the ECU reflash!

Yes please get a dyno ASAP before you get the ECU re-flashed.

You would be the only person to do it and compair those numbers to the flashed 194whp. You may even have more power. No one knows... but you have a chance to prove it. It will cost you about $80 to have it done.

194whp.

192whp

Now take that radiator plate, and tuck it under the OEM radiator shield, like it should be. Then all will be right with the world.

Now take that radiator plate, and tuck it under the OEM radiator shield, like it should be. Then all will be right with the world.

:rofl: you tell him doc!

<-- has S/C envy

I wonder what Toyota tech thought about your radiator plate when he was doing my SC install today... Probably thought it came stock like that.

Yes please get a dyno ASAP before you get the ECU re-flashed.

You would be the only person to do it and compair those numbers to the flashed 194whp. You may even have more power. No one knows... but you have a chance to prove it. It will cost you about $80 to have it done.

my buddys shop somewhere in gardena charges less than that for baseline runs but that still unecesarry cost for me since either way i have a good picture of how much power it can produce thanks to other forum member here.

Now take that radiator plate, and tuck it under the OEM radiator shield, like it should be. Then all will be right with the world.

:bow: im not worthy, im sorry.

Please dyno it before the ECU reflash!

i work a lot of hours, even going back for the reflash im trying to fit it within my schedule. the car has been garaged since monday. i think ive only driven it 20+ miles just going home and to the post office. :silly:

sorry double posted the pics

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/a92f4b7ff9.jpg

^ Dedicated to DocI for putting it right :rofl: ^

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/ed3b22fea8.jpg

Parts i dont know yet what to do. Sell ? :pray: Injectors Oil pan timing belt etc

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/3da7f77e13.jpg

Just a shift knob i picked up while i was waiting to pick up my car

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/a116a3cdd0.jpg

S/C box labeled outside, for those who still dont believe and argue otherwise


http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/4d16c9a70b.jpg

its #72 in the S/C list, still cant figure what its for

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/19c95ac23e.jpg

Assorted stickers i havent put on yet.

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/89caf4c03d.jpg

Comparison from left to right. Stock OE filter. OE supplied kit filter. Hydrocarbon filter supplied.

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/fdf75f178e.jpg

You cant remove the HC filter on top of the box filter because the Airbox wont seal right way.

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/295248c611.jpg

Same as above. Pic 2

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/b3d465d912.jpg

Mystery tube mounted inside the stock airbox

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/30933a99fd.jpg

Mounted in the airbox

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/d0f5fea5cf.jpg

warranty info

looks great

HC filter is mounted on the frame that you need for the airbox to seal right, but the filter itself can be removed.

The "mystery tube" is actually a helpful thing if you don't want your car resonating inside at 5K+. Makes everything much quieter. I put mine back in.

Also don't forget to replace the paper filter in the kit with K&N ;)

Am I the only person that saw the "misprint" in the warranty document?

"so the above limitations or exlusions man not apply to you."

^^^ :rofl: Good eyes. Haven't they learned you can't rely on spellchecker?

^^^ :rofl: Good eyes. Haven't they learned you can't rely on spellchecker?

let's be kind to trd now. c'mon, they didn't have a lot of time to develop the supercharger, nevertheless the papers and whatnot...

... oh wait, they did. :rofl:

HC filter is mounted on the frame that you need for the airbox to seal right, but the filter itself can be removed.

The "mystery tube" is actually a helpful thing if you don't want your car resonating inside at 5K+. Makes everything much quieter. I put mine back in.

Also don't forget to replace the paper filter in the kit with K&N ;)

Yea i put it back already. i havent cruised on the freeway with it. The TRD s/c reflash kit hasnt came in, im getting ____ed off already at my dealer.

Maybe later im thinking of buying an extra HC filter if i can then i will gut the middle of it, as far as the K&N i will buy one for sure later on after i get the reflash before the dyno.

------------------------------

I bought the TRD boost gauge tho for 90+
-I dont need to hear why did i buy it when it only goes up to 10psi
-I know its autometer
-I know its mechanical
-I will contact vortech/TRD to find the right line to tap

for other who dont know its this http://i8.ebayimg.com/01/i/05/4b/9b/20_1.JPG

* i will try to located another gauge to keep.

yeah I trip out that TRD themselves didn't make this but actually Vortech and everything now that says TRD ain't made by them, Kinda of sucks but marketing moves I guess

I hope to get mine pretty soon too
S/C here I come

damn over the past week everybody and there mothers have said they hav the supercharger lol. i want one too...

yeah I trip out that TRD themselves didn't make this but actually Vortech and everything now that says TRD ain't made by them, Kinda of sucks but marketing moves I guess

I hope to get mine pretty soon too
S/C here I come

But yeah its TRD , it may not be made by TRD but it says TRD :silly:

damn over the past week everybody and there mothers have said they hav the supercharger lol. i want one too...

ehem please i got this with my $$$$ . good luck on yours.

ok i just edited the title.

heres the cali s/c rollcall

1. OutCrnrU ( in possesion )

2. Tikbhoy ( me ) ( paid / waiting for delivery )

3. Who else ? just remember this is only what we know from SL. not in the whole state of cali, or the nation. im sure theres more than we know of that has this done that just doesnt spend his/her life on scionlife

Good Job Tikbhoy!

I think that mystery tube is to trick the sensor so boost dosn't make it throw codes.

I think that mystery tube is to trick the sensor so boost dosn't make it throw codes.

I dont think so...Im pretty sure its to keep air turbulence going through the MAF to a minimum to ensure some accurate MAF readings, but I could be wrong...I kept it in the xB w/ my turbo setup, and never really tried messing around w/ it so who knows.

Lookin good....

Thats what i was saying. Low air flow no code. DUH

Yea but I still dont think thats right. Its more like as turbulent air goes through the MAF inlet, it is hard for the MAF sensor to get an accurate reading, and in result effecting your A/F ratios and Gas mileage as well. The car may bog down without it in there but wouldnt necessarily throw any codes because the MAF sensor is still doing its job, its just working twice as hard as its supposed to. Im sorry boxman, I wasnt trying to sound negative on the last post with my "I dont think so". This is why I hate the internet cause when used in different context , the same phrases could mean two totally different things. :rofl:
The funny thing is after I wrote that and read the post I said to myself, I hope he doesnt take this the wrong way lol :rofl: :rofl: :silly:

Just an update.

Finally my reflash is done.

Planning on Dyno soon.

Parts to install:
- TRD boost gauge

Future Parts to buy
- K&N box filter
- Hydrocarbon filter ( extra when i cut off the filter part )

Parts to take off
- Intake tube inside airbox

Parts to custom
- replace BPV with something of higher quality than some cheap bosch plastic

any pics of the BPV?

any pics of the BPV?

no but its the supplied bypass valve that comes with it, i think even ZPi said that it leaks

for my experience i can hear the plastic flutter

Hello tC owners! Im a new member but a tC owner since 7/04. I read the Cali guys braggin and Im curious, anyone in PA have their sc installed b4 10/24? That's when mine was done. Already ran a tank through and got 20.8 mpg.

Couple of things I thought I should share.

Future Parts to buy
- K&N box filter
- Hydrocarbon filter ( extra when i cut off the filter part )
got my K&N couple of days ago. can't feel or hear any difference. Cone routed inside the fender might be a better choice.

HC filter - you can carefully cut the plastic "rivets" and take out the filter together with the inner frame. Nothing is really damaged, so you can put it back in any time.

Parts to take off
- Intake tube inside airbox
Leave it there. You'll get way too much funny noises with it out.
Parts to custom
- replace BPV with something of higher quality than some cheap bosch plastic
Looked at it tonight when I was tapping in the boost gauge. Should be a piece of cake to replace if you can find a correct replacement.

Couple of things I thought I should share.

Future Parts to buy
- K&N box filter
- Hydrocarbon filter ( extra when i cut off the filter part )
got my K&N couple of days ago. can't feel or hear any difference. Cone routed inside the fender might be a better choice.

well, living in "SoCal", he might want to stick with the stock air-box set-up (to pass the visual test at least). i mean, us SoCal guys/gals only have a supercharger so far [CARB and warrenty blah], and i wouldn't want to jeapordize warranty/smog with a custom cone setup. he could get away with the hc filter element removal, but other than that, we're limited.

Thanks to the thread for the information

http://clubsciontc.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=5290

heres my custom intake

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/0fa26b0371.jpg

quick question.......... when you go get the s/c installed, do you have to have the stock airbox on? or can you just leave an aftermarket intake?

quick question.......... when you go get the s/c installed, do you have to have the stock airbox on? or can you just leave an aftermarket intake?

there isnt any aftermarket intake available to fit the trd sc for now, you will have to modify your cai/sri to fit.

Modification
-OBX axleback exhaust
-Intake is stock

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/586322e034.jpg

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/ca0afa7a0d.jpg

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/8a16bc9c87.jpg

Great numbers!! :clap: HP goes clear to redline.

Great numbers!! :clap: HP goes clear to redline.


time to get a gready emanage ultimit and remove the rev limiter

Wow, that A/F chart sucks. You have the reflash I assume since its not overly rich. I would have expected a much cleaner chart for a car with a TRD map on it.

HP numbers look good though. Makes nice linear power although its a little shaky on the top end. I'd like to see an A/F chart of a SC car with a pully on it to see how the reflash reacts to more boost. A/F's are in a nice spot for 7ish pounds though. Nice and safe.

Charles

Great! Boost is nice and linear. AFR is kinda low near the end of the curve tho. Overall, the gain is impressive.

It looks like there is about 10 to 20 more hp at the top of the powerband.

Someone should really make a dampened lightweight pulley. I suspect the difference between a 7 psi turbo and 7 psi supercharger would be greatly lessoned with less weight for the crank to bleed into boost.

I wonder if that'll help with a smaller sc pulley. If it's underdrive for more boost, it should decrease parasitic loss right?

niice numbers man.

why does the dyno say flywheel power

Their voicemail says, "Chassis Dyno Facility". Most likely a miss print.

Thats what I was looking at too if thats flywheel uhh.... yea..

And ZPI said the intake gave it 20 more whp... I guess the reflash screws everything up huh...

If I do go S/C no reflash.... thats for sure

Thats what I was looking at too if thats flywheel uhh.... yea..

And ZPI said the intake gave it 20 more whp... I guess the reflash screws everything up huh...

If I do go S/C no reflash.... thats for sure

It says he had a stock intake.

Yea but in the picture he posted right before the dyno, he had a custom made intake. Maybe he did the dyno before he modded the intake?

*edit*

Just checked the timestamp on the dyno and it has nov 15th, and the other picture was posted on the 13th so there goes that theory. Tikbhoy, did you put the stock airbox back on for the dyno, or was that just a typo from your post?

I noticed the "flywheel" label too. Tikbhoy, is it a chassis dyno, or is it a flywheel.

I noticed the "flywheel" label too. Tikbhoy, is it a chassis dyno, or is it a flywheel.

FYI:
DynoPack is a hub dyno system. The wheels must be removed to dyno the vehicle. Typically these read higher than other dynos because they do not take into account friction coefficient from the tires to the pavement like some other dynos do.

I noticed the "flywheel" label too. Tikbhoy, is it a chassis dyno, or is it a flywheel.

FYI:
DynoPack is a hub dyno system. The wheels must be removed to dyno the vehicle. Typically these read higher than other dynos because they do not take into account friction coefficient from the tires to the pavement like some other dynos do.


Ahhh...good info.

good to know that.

I noticed the "flywheel" label too. Tikbhoy, is it a chassis dyno, or is it a flywheel.

FYI:
DynoPack is a hub dyno system. The wheels must be removed to dyno the vehicle. Typically these read higher than other dynos because they do not take into account friction coefficient from the tires to the pavement like some other dynos do.

dynopack does go by hub dyno, but the dyno says "flywheel' because it measures horsepower from the flywheel of the dyno. aka, there are two units, one on each wheel. the hubs turn a flywheel which is used to measure hp. so flywheel hp is the whp or hub wp the dyno generals. Depending on the calibrations of the dyno, it can be made to read more than a dyno jet or less. Much the same as Automotion's dyno that ZPI uses, which is known to be off from the dynojet here in louisville by making more HP. every dyno is different but if you use the same one to tune on, thats all that matters.

I noticed the "flywheel" label too. Tikbhoy, is it a chassis dyno, or is it a flywheel.

FYI:
DynoPack is a hub dyno system. The wheels must be removed to dyno the vehicle. Typically these read higher than other dynos because they do not take into account friction coefficient from the tires to the pavement like some other dynos do.

dynopack does go by hub dyno, but the dyno says "flywheel' because it measures horsepower from the flywheel of the dyno. aka, there are two units, one on each wheel. the hubs turn a flywheel which is used to measure hp. so flywheel hp is the whp or hub wp the dyno generals. Depending on the calibrations of the dyno, it can be made to read more than a dyno jet or less. Much the same as Automotion's dyno that ZPI uses, which is known to be off from the dynojet here in louisville by making more HP. every dyno is different but if you use the same one to tune on, thats all that matters.

True to an extent. Correction and smoothing can alter the numbers a little, but still overall every Dynopack I have encountered has read higher than a DynoJet. EVERY dyno reads different even DynoJet to DynoJet. That is true.

i would also venture to say that dynopaks are the most correct dyno's on the market. Yet they are pricey, plus they can actually place load on the car rather than the dynojet.

1. Its not a dynojet type, thanks paul and seen4ever. I will be using the same dyno for any future runs.

2. Stock intake, i put it back because i dint like how the car ran on the low end, i can feel the power increase thru top end tho.

3. Yes, i am aware that the dyno i used do typically read higher up to 10hp. But i just assume that the numbers it gives is as accurate as it gets.

4. Some of the labels on the sheets are wrong, I think the Company name is wrong too.

5. They do have a dynojet type for AWD and RWD. They also have about 4 dynapacks that i saw in the garage.

6. They hooked up a OBD reader thru the port and the WEIRDEST thing is that it was reading "80%" at full throttle, but i guess the only way to prove the reader wrong is to tap to the injectors and read the duty cycle of each.

I noticed the "flywheel" label too. Tikbhoy, is it a chassis dyno, or is it a flywheel.

FYI:
DynoPack is a hub dyno system. The wheels must be removed to dyno the vehicle. Typically these read higher than other dynos because they do not take into account friction coefficient from the tires to the pavement like some other dynos do.

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/7d8bec56b2.jpg

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/6c8edec9f7.jpg

i would also venture to say that dynopaks are the most correct dyno's on the market. Yet they are pricey, plus they can actually place load on the car rather than the dynojet.

DynoMite are abotu $40K and can do that same.

whats the deal with that S2000 with the ironing board wing on the back?? Anything done to that??

whats the deal with that S2000 with the ironing board wing on the back?? Anything done to that??

I pressed my shirts on it last night, but I don't think that is what your talking about. j/k :P

whats the deal with that S2000 with the ironing board wing on the back?? Anything done to that??

I pressed my shirts on it last night, but I don't think that is what your talking about. j/k :P

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: That thing is a lil ridiculous though. It looks like a dam Pep Boys special APC spoiler. What a shame :no:

whats the deal with that S2000 with the ironing board wing on the back?? Anything done to that??

I pressed my shirts on it last night, but I don't think that is what your talking about. j/k :P

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: That thing is a lil ridiculous though. It looks like a dam Pep Boys special APC spoiler. What a shame :no:

there are times its usefull. I dont want this to turn into some ____ing contest about the wing. but its gutted, full cage, built motor, etc. since s2k's are worth more than my car i still have respect for them.

edit-

whats the deal with that S2000 with the ironing board wing on the back?? Anything done to that??

I pressed my shirts on it last night, but I don't think that is what your talking about. j/k :P

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: That thing is a lil ridiculous though. It looks like a dam Pep Boys special APC spoiler. What a shame :no:

there are times its usefull. I dont want this to turn into some ____ing contest about the wing. but its gutted, full cage, built motor, etc. since s2k's are worth my car i still have respect for them.


LoL. Whats the point of "gutting" an S2K? You take out what? A seat and a 5X5 square of carpet. Oh well, to each his own I guess.

Charles

LoL. Whats the point of "gutting" an S2K? You take out what? A seat and a 5X5 square of carpet. Oh well, to each his own I guess.

Charles

who cares about the car, the wing or etc.

BACK ON TOPIC.

Please no more rants/questions/complain about the s2k!

Thanks

Changed the oil with castrol gtx 5w30 , 4qts in and 1qt used to wash it down old oil. I used OE oil filter.

I finally got rid of the charcoal filter. Its easy, just drill out the 4 plastics holding the center filter.

I just ordered the K&N box filter part number is 33-2145-1.

Next up will be a S-Pipe and clean the Vacuum lines.

Gas mileage is great too, i get 300 to the tank. =)

Dyno again later around february on the dynapack.

Just a lil update

I recently replaced the stock box filter with a K&N then i trimmed out the charcoal filter so i can still use the OE box.

I ordered megan header on ebay and im on the lookout for a s-pipe too. I want to wrap the header and spipe with thermotec black header wrap so it wont stick out that much when i open my hood.

I still plan to dyno my car soon again this february to see differences from my baseline run

You have to take off the supercharger to fit a header if you want to put it on. If you do however figure out a way to install it without doing that please tell me as i've tried

Munch installed his header after the SC i believe. I think he said you just have to move the alternator. don't quote me though.

You have to take off the supercharger to fit a header if you want to put it on. If you do however figure out a way to install it without doing that please tell me as i've tried

Munch installed his header after the SC i believe. I think he said you just have to move the alternator. don't quote me though.

well worst come to worst i could try lowering the radiator to make room if thats the case, i havent really looked in my hood for room to work with.

Munch installed his header after the SC i believe. I think he said you just have to move the alternator. don't quote me though.

That is 100% correct. you can install a header without removing the supercharger. You will just have to move the alternator out of the way and the rest is a piece of cake.

Hey munch can you pm install directions? as yeah the alternator got in my way, and I have a header sitting doing nothing haha. However the Exhaust Manifold Cover that's a _____ to take off I had to dremel a piece and pull it off unless you know a way to take taht off without bending the cover?

Thanks

Thank's Munch Either way it will slap on no matter wat =)

I ordered megan header on ebay and im on the lookout for a s-pipe too. I want to wrap the header and spipe with thermotec black header wrap so it wont stick out that much when i open my hood.


I guess im going for broke this xmas holiday :clap:

I ordered the spipe :silly:

Yehey 10-15+whp

I was looking at my alternator, did you take off the SC belt then moved the alternator?

Thanks I woudl really like to do something with my header that's sitting here

I was looking at my alternator, did you take off the SC belt then moved the alternator?

Thanks I woudl really like to do something with my header that's sitting here

Yeah take off the belt to get it out the way. Loosen up the alternator, remove the bolts, remove the alternator it makes life much easier ( You do not have to remove the connectors). Once the alternator is out of the way you can take that last nut off easy. Put the newe header on , bolt it down, and put the alternator back. Simple. As far as that heat sheild goes. It will come off once you remove all the bolts and the stud that is on the top of the stock header. You do not have to cut it off.

yeah I did that but it has the groove on the shield and I have to lift the header above the nut on the intake side that stick up, I had to dremel a slit and lift it up and yank it out. i'm assumign you didn't put your heatshield on, it doesn't exactly yank off like the stock

yeah I did that but it has the groove on the shield and I have to lift the header above the nut on the intake side that stick up, I had to dremel a slit and lift it up and yank it out. i'm assumign you didn't put your heatshield on, it doesn't exactly yank off like the stock

I had the heatshield on. What nut are you talking about? The only thing that could get in the way of the heatshield comming off if the stud. Unless I'm not understanding what you mean.

Just to clarify, we're talkign about the supercharger heatshield right? cause when I took the screws off, the supercharger itself got in my way and the nut you take off on the intake side ontop of the heathshield a thread sticks up, I had to get it above that so I could pull it off. I serisouly took off all teh bolts and just tried to yank the heatshield off but it was a no go unless there's a certain angle I could yanked it underneath the supercharger

Just to clarify, we're talkign about the supercharger heatshield right? cause when I took the screws off, the supercharger itself got in my way and the nut you take off on the intake side ontop of the heathshield a thread sticks up, I had to get it above that so I could pull it off. I serisouly took off all teh bolts and just tried to yank the heatshield off but it was a no go unless there's a certain angle I could yanked it underneath the supercharger

Yes I am talking about the trd heatshield. You have to remove the stud that is sticking up. It comes out easy with a grip plier.Once that is out of the way. You will have to work it out, by pulling it from left to right while pulling it off. I think I did cut alittle slit in it because it got stuck at one point. I'll check the heat shield tomorrow to see if I did indeed cut it.

ohh the thread stud that sticks up comes out?? LOL I wish I knew that earlier. and yeah all I did was cut a slit and move the metal up so it went around the stud. then wiggled the crap out of it until it came out. but I rather just remove the stud haha.

ohh the thread stud that sticks up comes out?? LOL I wish I knew that earlier. and yeah all I did was cut a slit and move the metal up so it went around the stud. then wiggled the crap out of it until it came out. but I rather just remove the stud haha.

It's cool bro. I should have just took a picture of it. I tried to explain it to you. But glad to see you finally got it.

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/e9ebf7f1dd.jpg


Im just waiting for another item ... secret of course =)

you'll have the before/after dyno for this ofcourse right? heheh :P

you'll have the before/after dyno for this ofcourse right? heheh :P

The dyno was done already with SC+ obx exhaust.

but I will dyno this again sometime around february to march with the following

Megan header & spipe and KN box filter w/ modified charcoal filter ( done ) w/ stock exhaust

Im not in a rush to dyno it because with all the NA dyno's posted on header combo i kinda get an estimate.

Just in reference on progress of header install

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=98344


Im going to write a writeup on a DIY header after s/c

i wont call it a pleasant experience

This is just a quicknote on what things to remove.

- TRD modified heatshield has SHARP EDGES. Be careful

- Its best to take off the radiator to have more room to take off the heat shield and unbolt the header.

- You have to take off one of the TRD idler pulley using an allen and a wrench on the other side to gain access to the top bolt of the alternator.

- there is 2 bolts holding the alternator and you dont have to pull off all the cables just enough for it to come out.

- for the alternator to come out, it can only move down not up because the SC bracket is blocking and to move down you will have to remove the lower radiator L valve. by doing this you can have more room wrenching the header bolt and properly torqing it back to spec.

- take off the radiator reservoir tank too to make more room while you tension the belt. you dont have to buy a special tool, you use a metric socket to tension it. the tensioner is directly on top of the tension pulley.

- WD-40 in massive amounts is recommended to lube up the AFR sensor, a 7/8 standard with a longest arm is helpfull too. you can use the same wrench when you want to take off the o2 sensor on the s-pipe.

- you can get an antifouler from autozone/kragen/pepboys. brand is "help" I still have to double check the size since i got 4 different packaging

- when you put all the belts back and re install the TRD idler pulley. check for clearance while its running. refer to last pages in your trd install.

Il take pictures later to show the carnage.

the process is doable but i wouldnt suggest it to anybody who expects it to be done quickly.

Hmm after 600ish $$$ spent as of right now. Is it worth doing ? :doh:

Im tired. I got all the parts including the thermotec graphite exhaust wrap, aluminum straps, high heat ceramic exhaust paint, new AFR sensor.... I think im exhausted.

just got home from work. Il be working on putting everything back together. I should have results posted here early sunday or later to monday.

Happy boosting everyone. Drive safe and Buckle up.

:love:

Yummy
http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/d990a3751a.jpg

It can be done

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/5424909e75.jpg

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/9476d3e42d.jpg

^^ so hows it sound, lol

which GFB valve is taht???

sound clip?

^^ so hows it sound, lol

vrrrrooooommm + clack + swoooosh :P + vrooooomm :silly:

which GFB valve is taht???

GFB universal hybrid

sound clip?

thats why i dont post it, no time in the world to make one. but you can listen on their site its

http://www.gofastbits.com/index.php?parentid=sounds&option=sounds

its the GFB stealth but its almost the same things except 100% atmospheric and adjustable on top, similar body and piston.

since tc supercharger are centrifugal you can only hear it enough at higher rpms. but i would measure the height of stealth first since anymore larger than the hybrid would hit the banjo bolts on the firewall. im back to stock since im going to modify it, but i wil be using it as plumb back only.

its hard to explain but il quote the gfb tech ive been talking to in regards to any atmospheric bov opening while cruising. something vacuum this blah blah supercharger blahblah it wont act same as turbos blah blah

How the heck did you do that BOV?? I thought it was bad since its atmospheric and it needs to be diverted?? Fill me in please thats a major plus for me! I would love to have that whoosh sound!! :love:

wow I am totally interested. i imagine it wont have the sound as the WRX on the site. But dang it would be nice.

Do you have the idle problems and all that the other guy
that tried a BOV had?

tikbhoy if this works well and sounds good and has no adverse effects on the Sc, then you are the man.

How the heck did you do that BOV?? I thought it was bad since its atmospheric and it needs to be diverted?? Fill me in please thats a major plus for me! I would love to have that whoosh sound!! :love:

Hybrid valves have dual outlet. 1 atmospheric and the other plumbed back to the intake.

wow I am totally interested. i imagine it wont have the sound as the WRX on the site. But dang it would be nice.

Do you have the idle problems and all that the other guy
that tried a BOV had?

tikbhoy if this works well and sounds good and has no adverse effects on the Sc, then you are the man.

Reason why other people have idle problems is because its not adjusted right, meaning you need to adjust the preload of the piston and have the right stiffness of the spring. you would need to rev it then make sure the piston is close as it goes back to idle.

having too much pre-load on the springs would defeat the purpose of the BOV since the sc cant push out the piston.

Probly biggest affect on a 100% atmospheric bov is your gas mileage in the short term. I still recommend full plumback or a hybrid so you can play around with it.

I am deffinetly going to look into it. Just wish I new more about adjusting the preload and all.

I am deffinetly going to look into it. Just wish I new more about adjusting the preload and all.

but bov's acts different tho in superchargers just to let you know.

heres just a part of an email between me and the gfb tech

Glad to hear it's going well. I take it you have the valve set up with the
>trumpet in place (i.e. not plugged off)? If you've got it idling ok then
>that's a good start.
>
>What RPM are you doing at 65-70mph? I imagine it would be around 3-3500RPM,
>in which case looking at your dyno chart the blower is capable of
generating
>2-3psi of boost at full throttle. So with the throttle only just open at
>cruise, it's likely there is more like 5psi behind the throttle plate, and
>the manifold will still be in vacuum. These are the two conditions needed
to
>open the valve - manifold vacuum and pre-throttle boost. When and how much
>it opens depends on the spring pre-load and how much of either condition
you
>have.
>
>If you haven't already tried this, I would suggest tightening the spring by
>screwing the vacuum nipple in a few turns - this may help keep it closed in
>these conditions, but if you hear flutter go back to where you had it.
>
>The other spring I sent was a softer one, so it probably won't be much use
>to you. Do you have a boost gauge? If so, I'd suggest hooking it up to the
>piping before the throttle if you can, just so you can see how much
pressure
>is in the pipes at various RPM. With the throttle closed and the revs up,
>the blower will be looking for somewhere to send the air - out the valve or
>into the intake, whichever is the least resistance.
>
>Keep me informed on how it goes, I'm interested to hear.
>


greenbox has the same problem too but tightening it too much just to make it close might have adverse affect on performance as i said already earlier. in conclusion i still think that a adjustable bypass/diverter valve or a adjustable/convertible hybrid like mine is highly recommended versus using a full atmospheric type.

Looks good but dam that thing is expensive...and people were cryin about me spending $130 on my Forge 007 :rofl:
If I didnt have the Forge already I would probably try it out

That is awesome!!! I wonder the longevity with this on.... Keep us updated!

That is awesome!!! I wonder the longevity with this on.... Keep us updated!

right now im back to stock because the head of the hybrid is hitting one of the banjo bolts on the firewall. either i trim the charge inlet by 1/2" or extend it away.

but anyways i found a great video that sound like my hybrid! if you notice when the car decellerate it blowsoff, thats whats annoying me and its natural with superchargers+bov

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-843362230476296874&q=honda

its a ITR rotrex sc

:shock: Nurburgring! That was awsome! Wish they had some open track like that here in the midsouth.

Whoops found what i was looking for. But did you correct the problem you ran into with this? (clearance issues i believe) Definately interested in your setup. You do an install right up? How bout power difference with it. Thanks Sorry if you answered any of these questions.

Mark

that was a crazy integ in that video

Whoops found what i was looking for. But did you correct the problem you ran into with this? (clearance issues i believe) Definately interested in your setup. You do an install right up? How bout power difference with it. Thanks Sorry if you answered any of these questions.

Mark

butt dyno says i cant tell.

" you do an install right up ? " ? who what is up ?

i havent had the time to take off the charge pipe, i dont want to cut it while its connected to the TB/SC because the rubber shavings would go inside the engine.

i am sorry i meant "write up"....

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/163f03de93.jpg

Things needed
1. Mini-Fuse tap
2. Autometer gauge cup 52mm
3. Dremel
4. Drill

1. I used the fuse tap to get power off the fuse box.

2. Autometer because its cup is metal and its flat black.

3/4. You need to cut the threaded screw on the gauge to make sure it wont hit the back of the gauge cup. You can either use the supplied L elbow or straight adapter nut to screw the nylon tubing but since im mounting mine in front of the speedometer i dint want it to bend, so i drilled another hole for the nut and the nylon directly on the back.

* i still need to buy wire looms to clean the wires/tubing in the back







i am sorry i meant "write up"....

its too easy and a waste of time to do one. you take off the stock part and install the aftermarket bov then you adjust it according to the manual.

"Yea i put it back already. i havent cruised on the freeway with it. The TRD s/c reflash kit hasnt came in, im getting ____ed off already at my dealer."

:no: Don't blame the dealer too much. I work at one. To put it mildly, TRD kind of sucks when it comes to availibility on parts. When the Celica GTS exhaust came out, one customer waited almost 6 months to get it. A co-worker waited 3 months.
They have impoved things by stocking most TRD parts at the regional parts warehouses, where dealers get all of their parts, and not just CA anymore.
Most of the time, a wait or backorder on any part, especially TRD, is beyond the dealer's control. We can make calls, but if it's on backorder and they're out of stock, you just have to wait. Also, keep in mind a lot of this stuff comes from Japan.

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/25f3057cdc.jpg

more junk in my room

I spy the top of a bride seat..??

sure looks like it! what exhaust is that?

dude...still listening...

I spy the top of a bride seat..??

:rofl: Mint condition 88 CRX Si seat


dude...still listening...


sure looks like it! what exhaust is that?

my new weapon :silly:

zpi exhaust, almost mint condition.

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/908480ee63.jpg

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/041eadb176.jpg

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/f87b5da205.jpg

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/04235aacde.jpg

http://www.myfruityimage.com/uploads/7739262323.jpg

No i dont have sound clips, im just lazy when it comes to that.