I know its ALOT, but READ EVERYTHING!
1st i would like to say, Sticky this to FAQs. YOU CANNOT DO THIS ALONE! GET A FRIEND OR SOMEONE TO HELP! It would be very hard to do alone.
this is not the easiest install for a noob to attempt.
it wasnt the hardest thing to install but it does take some know how and with this HOW TO, i hope people appreciate it and can use it to do the install theirselves.

2nd, thank you ZPI for being there to answer my calls and getting me this pulley so fast. I ordered late Friday afternoon and got it Tuesday before Noon.

HERE WE GO!
1st jack up the car! if you dont have Jack stands......GET THEM!! dont risk trying to hold the car up with a stock or aftermarket jack!.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000291.jpg


the stock crank pulley is on the passenger side.
go ahead and take the passenger wheel off.
now you will see a small panel on the side wall. you must remove 2 Screws and like 4 caps. there are 2 of the caps that are hidden, if you dont want to get to them. you can just pull the plastic back. like shown
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000293.jpg
HTTP://WWW.SCIONLIFE.COM/TECH/IMAGES/ZPI_PULLEY_TC/P1000294.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000295.jpg

Now you can try to loosen the bolt on the stock pulley with hand tools but TRUST ME! they dont work out to well. put the car in gear to keep the pulley from spinning when trying to loosen.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000296.jpg
HAND TOOLS DONT WORK WELL FOR THIS!

i recommend going to Autoparts store and getting a quick Impact set. or use a friends...or get in professionaly installed.
HERE IS WHAT I USED
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000304.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000306.jpg
Now most people dont have this, or dont wanna go out and spend this kinda money.
well i bought the Impact wrench in a set and borrowed the compressor from a nabor.
now it takes some work but i found that you should be able to get it off with about 135PSI.. also use a little bit of WD-40. spray around the back of the pulley and let set for a few minutes. it will work its way in.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000307.jpg
dont try to pull it out just yet.

Now here is the part where you gonna need a friend.
Looking at the engine bay from the top you can see this part in the midst of the pulleys. you will need a 19mm socket head and wrench.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000317.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000302.jpg
you will want to have your friend pull on the socket wrench as hard as he can towards the front of the vehicle. this is the tensioner bolt and will release the tension on the belts allowing you to remove the stock pulley.

Here is a side by side comparison. Holding the Stock in 1 hand and the ZPI in the other. is SIGNIFICANT!
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000309.jpg

Now, what you wanna do is place the new ZPI pulley into the belt and then have your friend pull on that tensioner bolt again so that you can get the new pulley into its place.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000310.jpg
Keep in mind the position of the inlet where the pulley fits into the groove.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000311.jpg

when you get it FULLY into position it will look Almost FLUSH.
make sure its straight with the rest of the pulleys aswell.
This may take some brute force because it will NOT be easy as just popping it in.
MAKE SURE ALL OF YOUR BELTS ARE ON, TIGHT , AND IN THE CORRECT POSITIONING....i cannot stress this enough.

once you are 100% sure, your ready to screw the bolt back on.
i recommend cleaning the threads 1st of any WD-40 or dirt and grime.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000319.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/zpi_pulley_tc/P1000312.jpg

now, make sure you have done everything that should be done, removed and replaced before starting your car. I was not 100% about this but i did it anyways while i cleaned up the garage. Start your car and let it run about 5-10minutes before putting it all back together. make sure it runs and NO check engine light comes on.
after that time shut the car OFF. and put the plastic panel back on, then the wheels and and drop the car down from the stands. YOUR ALL DONE!

take it for a little test drive!
i take no blame for ANYTHING that you do to your vehicle, i am just helping you out!


REVIEW:
i was very excited about getting this Lightweight Crank Pulley.
ZPI has had nothing but AMAZING customer service and aftermarket parts for the Scion tC! :clap: 1st off, Thank you to Keisha who is the best person to ever have to talk to on the phone and order parts from. Kenny, Nester, Joey and Brian are all awsome!
good group of guys that will do anything they can to help a person out. :bow:
during the install it was a little hard with out having Impact tools
i would NOT attempt this without Impact tools.
should only take about 30 minutes TOPS if you have all the proper tools!
so plan ahead.
I was not expecting to get my head thrown back into my seat when accelerating but there is a noticable gain with this pulley that has a great feel to it.
from the start of 1st gear til you hit 4th gear you can feel and see the quicker acceleration on the RPMs and going down the road. im not sure of the % but it supposed to be right about 15-20% freed up acceleration. gets rid of that Parasitic drag on the car.
my friend that helped me install this has a tC also and in the passenger seat he noticed a difference, and decided he want one now.. lol :rofl:
this pulley is worth the money! great product from ZPI, good quality and performance value.

thanks ZPI, look forward to more aftermarket parts from you! :bow:

dunno why it went into Drag Coefficient...MOD pleas move to tC Powerhungry!

thanks

Awesome! now maybe I'll get off my lazy ___ and do mine thats been lying in the trunk of my tc for a month now.

hmm doesnt seem as hard as i thought it would be.

how much does this cost? doesnt it affect long term reliability?

edit: how much lighter is the zpi pulley compared to stock?

i believe the weight for the stock pulley is 4.5 Pounds where the ZPI pulley is 1.1 Pounds.
holding 1 in each hand you feel a BIG difference.
as for pricing you should check out www.thescionstore.com
not sure if shipping is all the same or not.
as for long term. i dont think it affects it at all. unlike the NST pulley where it is actually smaller in size and you need to buy a new smaller belt. the ZPI pulley doesnt mess with the size...just weight. so it spins faster than stock, getting rid of "parasitic drag".

i believe the weight for the stock pulley is 4.5 Pounds where the ZPI pulley is 1.1 Pounds.
holding 1 in each hand you feel a BIG difference.
as for pricing you should check out www.thescionstore.com
not sure if shipping is all the same or not.
as for long term. i dont think it affects it at all. unlike the NST pulley where it is actually smaller in size and you need to buy a new smaller belt. the ZPI pulley doesnt mess with the size...just weight. so it spins faster than stock, getting rid of "parasitic drag".

well ya the NST one is smaller and lighter. but it spins alot faster than the ZPI racing one. and now they make a water pump pulley and alternator pulley so your accessories will also run at normal speeds with the crank pulley.

i dont see pricing on scionstore.com. how much did you pay for em

Very nice write up dude, well done :)

You should certainly feel faster acceleration from the new pulley,
almost everyone who installs one of these pulleys notices a difference.

Now as far as a comparison between this and the NST crank pulley from www.NonStopTuning.com here goes...

There are two benefits to aftermarket crank pulleys:

1. Light-weight aftermarket pulleys are often lighter than the stock pulley,
I believe both the NST and ZPI pulley weigh about 1lb. Less rotating mass leads to faster acceleration and better throttle responce.

2. Underdrive aftermarket pulleys slow down accessories,
By definition underdrive means to slow down. So underdrive pulleys send a little bit less HP to the accessories and more to the drive wheels.

So in theory, an underdrive crank pulley SHOULD put down more HP than just a light-weight pulley if put on a dyno.
It would be very nice to see some sort of comparison from a third party, but that will probably never happen because we probably have some
NST supporters and some ZPI supporters on this one. Doesnt really matter I guess, both are great options.

Last but not least, as far as I know both pulleys sell for under $150,
which leads to one of the best bang for the buck mods in the industry.

Best of luck to everyone :)

i dont see pricing on scionstore.com. how much did you pay for em


It's theScionStore.com :)

The crank pulley is $135 + shipping. Since it's such a light package, shipping is pretty reasonable. ;)

LucidBD, great writeup.. :D

lo bux???

do you have anything to say? :D

excellent! what about this harmonic balancer thing and that the-lack-of-it-will-damange-the-engine-in-the-long-run business?

Its questionable because nobody has had one on a tC for long enough to know what it could damage, but I know I wont be running one.

Great Write-up.

Does your car feel like it slows down faster after you let off of the excellerator?

..excellerator..

LOL sorry but that sounds like some shareware add-on to Microsoft Excel.

Its "accelerator" FYI, not trying to be an @$$, but I thought it was funny.

excellent! what about this harmonic balancer thing and that the-lack-of-it-will-damange-the-engine-in-the-long-run business?

We need the link to the last thread where lo_bux went into great detail what the downsides of doing this would be for the car.

Paraphrasing....

"It probably won't do anything straight away to your car, but I wouldn't want to be the one buying it second hand from you in 3 years"

I won't be putting one on until someone brings out one with the harmonic balancing done correctly.

I'd rather spend an extra $100 and have something that won't destroy any and every engine part slowly.

Do you mean this thread: http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=87508&start=25

where he says this:



Here's the big deal if the oil pump chain breaks: the CEL lights up and you see you have no oil pressure. So you check the oil, and see it is full. So you figure, how could I have an oil pressure problem if the oil is full? Then you figure, ah! the sensor must be bad. No worries, I'll just drive over to the dealer and get a new sensor. With zero oil pressure.

Can this happen? You bet. Ever hear of the Mitsubishi Cordia? It has a rubber belt driving the oil pump. It breaks. Ever see the inside of a Cordia engine that's been driven 95 miles over winding mountain roads with no oil pressure? I have. There wasn't a single salvageable piece in that engine. After the driver arrived at her destination and shut it off, it would not restart (imagine that).

So if you lose oil pressure but your crankcase is full, don't be foolish. Shut it off, get a tow.

And 87NA, I know PLENTY of people who ran UR pulleys on their Supras and broke their engines. Wonderful to say you've not experienced it, but to say it doesn't happen is ignorance of the many failures experienced by members of the import communities.

Actually I'll take it back irt was Enginefier that I was paraphrasing.

For me, when two of the people who's opinions I most respect on these forums say they wouldn't touch this for a daily driver, I won't go near it.

But each to their own, you pays your money you makes your choices.

Images transfered, Put into FAQ

good WRITE UP i think ill take a copy of this with my to my install shop just incase !

thanks

these engines are internally balanced...installing this is no diffrent that installing a lighten flywheel. We would not sell it if we thought it would damage it.

Harmonic vibrations are different from internal balancing.


..and these are very different than lightweight flywheels

These links describe what harmonic balancers do and why they are so important:

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/products/dampers/101/index.htm

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/products/dampers/damper_dinan.htm

thanks to lo_bux_racer for the tech links.

ooo did zpi jus get schooled?

well c mine is in the mail .. and will be installing soon if my car is still here after the hurricane.

ooo did zpi jus get schooled?

LOL :rofl: Im not saying that its 100% correct, seeing as its from a damper manufacturer it may have some bias, but seeing as how the article was written by Dinan, it does have a lot of clout.

honestly i love this thing. driving to and from work today i had some fun testing it out. i do accel faster from 1st - end of 3rd gear. also has great pick up from a 40mph drop.

LOL i havent really paid attention to the slowing down faster, i have been doing ALOT of accelerating! LOL
great product and i havent had an issue in the little time that i have had it. i really dont see a problem occuring in the future.

these engines are internally balanced...installing this is no diffrent that installing a lighten flywheel. We would not sell it if we thought it would damage it.


correct

these engines are internally balanced...installing this is no diffrent that installing a lighten flywheel. We would not sell it if we thought it would damage it.


correct

Sorry, but that is not correct. Internal balancing has nothing to do with the harmonic vibrations. They are completely different. Fully balanced blueprinted race engines with custom machining and counterweighting that can cost well over $20,000 will still run harmonic balancers. Even F1 engines run them and those are engines are the most precision built engines anywhere. "Internal balancing" and "balance shafts" are not related to harmonic balancing. Its like comparing "strut bars" to "sway bars" and saying they are the same.

nice instructions... but you didnt change your belt??? i thought your suppose to????

you have to change your belt with the NST crank pulley because it is smaller in circumference.

the ZPI crank pulley is EXACTLY the same size as the stock pulley just 3.1 pounds lighter.

Very cool write-up, thanks for that. I'll let you be the guinea pig in terms of long-term effects, but if I see positive things, seems to be great bang for the buck.

I'll throw in the direct link from thescionstore.com:
http://www.thescionstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TSS&Product_Code=ZCP&Category_Code=E

haha i dont mind being the guinea pig. sometimes you get the best, 1st. and im happy i ordered this pulley.

I wouldnt really worry about it too much dude. Like I have always said, I have not had any trouble with my cars in the past few years. Again, good job on the write up, maybe you should get some accessory pulleys from NST next and do a write up on those ;)

these engines are internally balanced...installing this is no diffrent that installing a lighten flywheel. We would not sell it if we thought it would damage it.

Wow, you guys need to be super careful. Many on these boards have great respect for what you say and value you're opinions greatly - I for one - but when you go head to head and contradict what Engineerfier AND Lo_bux are saying you could come across as not knowing what you're saying, and in fact just saying stuff to make the sale.

Trust is easily lost, and hard to find.

When it comes to cars (especially in the scion world after all the crazienss that's gone one) trust is a HUGE issue.

these engines are internally balanced...installing this is no diffrent that installing a lighten flywheel. We would not sell it if we thought it would damage it.

In fact I'll throw somthing out there.

If you stand by your statement that it won't damage the cra, what guarentee will you give.

Would you be willing to offer a 5 year warrenty (in writting), that states if the dealer came prove that the pulley was the cause of ANY issue, you will pay to have ANY issue fixed?

this is a Tech section. a How to for the people who really want to know hwo to install this or have questions about it.

i trust ZPI to the fullest extent. no other aftermarket company has given the time and effort that these guys have been putting in with their turbos, pulley, wireharness not to mention that they run their own shop and all.

go ahead call them, TRY to get ahold of kenny cause i bet you will hear "kenny is working on vehicle right now" 9 time outa 10. that man doesnt stop working. but Joey, Brian, Nester and keisha are very knowledgable and great to deal with.

this is a Tech section. a How to for the people who really want to know hwo to install this or have questions about it.

i trust ZPI to the fullest extent. no other aftermarket company has given the time and effort that these guys have been putting in with their turbos, pulley, wireharness not to mention that they run their own shop and all.

go ahead call them, TRY to get ahold of kenny cause i bet you will hear "kenny is working on vehicle right now" 9 time outa 10. that man doesnt stop working. but Joey, Brian, Nester and keisha are very knowledgable and great to deal with.

The first point: I am asking questions, that's all I am doing, questioning.

If they offer a 5 year warrenty in writing, I'll buy one right now.

And I too trust these guys to the fullest extent, I also note that they have done a lot for teh community and they have a very well run, successful business, the point I am making is they have to be careful about saying things that I don't think they can back up. That makes me doubt, when I doubt I question, and when I don't get answers I don't do business. But maybe that's just me.

http://www.yoursciontc.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6923

Great link...thanks

if i recall, lo bux said there is no harmonic balancer, just like a vibrations damper. that makes sence cuz the only 2 diffences from stock is that its lighter and doesnt have a lil rubbery/ plasticy thing, and no rubbery/ plasticy thing is gonna be doing any sophisticated balancing. then again im not sure so im ready to get sKOooled at any moment, but go ahead and ask lo bux.

The damper reduces harmonic vibrations. There are a number of terms for the part, and in the domestic market where I was at for a long time it was called a harmonic balancer. Semantics aside, lo_bux and I are talking about the same thing.

Nice walkthough. I did a DIY for accord v6's for V6P.net back when I had an accord. I have air tools now but when i didnt there is a trick to loosening the crank pulley bolt. If you have a 12-18 inch breaker bar you can lower the car without the front wheel on close enough to the ground that while the breaker bar is locked onto the bolt the breaker bar is wedged from going anywhere from contact with the ground. i hope that makes sense. The breaker bar should be at a 45 degree angle from tip on the ground to socket on the crank pulley bolt. The point of this is so the bolt cannot turn with the pulley. Then you would need to take out the fuel pump fuse. This will stop the engine from turning over. A simple turn of the key and rotation of the engine will loosen bolt. Everybody on V6p.net was using this little trick...there might actually be some pics on how to do it. Of course the pulley swap on accord v6's was much more beneficial.....the stock accord pulley was close to 10 pounds!!!

I just went to this local shop to see how much it would be to do, and i brought the right up with me.

they said that this guy is lying and you need 2 take out the engine and ____ lol. I was like ok thanks any way BYE !!!!!

they said any body could take pictures doesnt mean its true lol . what a joke

I just went to this local shop to see how much it would be to do, and i brought the right up with me.

they said that this guy is lying and you need 2 take out the engine and poop lol. I was like ok thanks any way BYE !!!!!

they said any body could take pictures doesnt mean its true lol . what a joke


:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: What a crock :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: He shouldn't be working on cras.

how do you have room to torque it down? i assume its around 230ft/lb maybe? w/o a lift you'll have maybe 2' clearance from the ground at best with jack stands, how do you get enough leverage on a torque wrench w/o very much room to swing it?

Here is an underdrive crank pulley for only $75! I love mine.

http://mrpulley.com/product_info.php?cPath=2&products_id=1

So which is better NST or ZPI's? I'm on both pages and dnt know which one to order lol

whoooooa not getting one now after i just read all that stuff

nice..

I have it in the back of my car just need 2 install. every one wants like $120 to install. uGHHH

I installed the pully yesterday with your how to .. IT was very easy.

ANd for the pully IT is the best mod ive put on , YOu can so feel the differnce i haul ___ now !!

awsome! im very glad to hear that my write ups come in handy!


its been about 2 months going strong with my ZPI Crank Pulley and not 1 problem yet. still just like the day i installed it.

miamibusta69 wrote:
I just went to this local shop to see how much it would be to do, and i brought the right up with me.

they said that this guy is lying and you need 2 take out the engine and poop lol. I was like ok thanks any way BYE !!!!!

they said any body could take pictures doesnt mean its true lol . what a joke


WOW!! thats some BS.
for anyone that is local and doesnt wanna pay to install it, i will offer my helping hand.
ya you heard me. ill help you install this thing if you are local and would like some help.

maximus96:
how do you have room to torque it down? i assume its around 230ft/lb maybe? w/o a lift you'll have maybe 2' clearance from the ground at best with jack stands, how do you get enough leverage on a torque wrench w/o very much room to swing it?

i actually started out using a hand torque wrench and it didnt work out...i noted that in my original post. its is SUPER SUPER hard to do it with hand tools without killing someone or damaging something. thats why you need a compressor and power tools.

i had it up on jack stands and it was pretty far off the ground.

A fellow scion owner did it for me cuz he owned a transmission shop. HE had that pully off in a couple secs. took about 20 25 min only cuz my belt fell off and it was hard to put back on .

--> That is a really good point 'maximus96'....
The rubber surrounding the crank pulley does absorb alot of vibration.. If the crank shaft does not have something to absorb vibration then you will see some crankshaft, seals, and bearing problems in the future...

They don't put a vibration damper on all cars just for looks !

--But if you are leasing your car... who cares ! lol

Could they just add rubber to the exterior off the pulley to prevent the vibration? It would still weigh a lot less.

Could they just add rubber to the exterior off the pulley to prevent the vibration? It would still weigh a lot less.

Nope

Are there any lightweight pulleys that are like this?

Thanks alot for making this thread.. I might have seen your car around, I'm in cape coral.

I just ordered this pulley today.

I have one question, what do you torque the bolt on the crank pulley to?

I belive its 145 or 150 ftlbs. Check ZPI's site. Its on there.

god this sucks. i really want this zpi pully but people are saying its going to mess my car up. i dont want any warranty probs. i just want a fast car hahaha. im going to go for it and see what happens. you only live once. :pray:

I belive its 145 or 150 ftlbs. Check ZPI's site. Its on there.

Thanks!

god this sucks. i really want this zpi pully but people are saying its going to mess my car up. i dont want any warranty probs. i just want a fast car hahaha. im going to go for it and see what happens. you only live once. :pray:


a Dyno'ed proven 11whp and 18wtq increase for only a little over $100 dollars, Who the heck cares. Get it, and Get them while they are in, cause they sell out like they are going out of style.

There isn't even *1* 2AZ-FE that is having any problems with the ZPI crank pulley.. Until there is one, no one should worry.

Thanks for a great step by step install post- i am ready now to go install my pully.. I can't wait to fell the accelleration.. yea- more power..
Devon

They don't put a vibration damper on all cars just for looks !


That's correct, they don't put it on just for looks, they put it on to reduce noise.. That is the only reason they added this to the crank pulley.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment.

You may hear a little more noise with this pulley but it's not going to cause any engine damage.

If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. Mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few.

NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing.

Toyota put alot more money into the intake system then they had to, the main reason: you make it quiet.. That same exact reason they put more research/engineering into the crank pulley: to reduce noise.

any one have any other type of pulley

judgeing from the pictures, the original pulley did not seem to have much rubber on it

:bow: nice ride up

I belive its 145 or 150 ftlbs. Check ZPI's site. Its on there.

I don't see anything on ZPI's website..

In another thread they said for the NST crank pulley it is suppose to be 110ft/lbs of torque..

Can anyone verify the correct number?

Well, I just found it on ZPI's forum, it said 150ft./lbs,.. Does anyone know if that's correct?

Good how-to. Definetly wanna get this mod.

judgeing from the pictures, the original pulley did not seem to have much rubber on it

Pulley did not have much rubber on it? What are you talkin about?

any one have any other type of pulley

Agency Power...............exact same thing as ZPI.... 1.1 lb.


DON'T FORGET BLUE THREADLOCKER WHEN REINSTALLING THE BOLT!!!

can anyone please tell me a way that i can get the pulley just for the crank loose with out air tools i have an impact gun..but i dont have air..long story short im guessin i can leave the belt on and just leave the car in like 3rd or 4th gear and try busting it loose i have a torque wrench to put it back on but i think get the nut loose might be a problem.. i also have blue loctite that i will be usin to put back on..can anyone help me out here?.. any suggestions on how to remove the crank pulley with no air tools..?

honestly i love this thing. driving to and from work today i had some fun testing it out. i do accel faster from 1st - end of 3rd gear. also has great pick up from a 40mph drop.

LOL i havent really paid attention to the slowing down faster, i have been doing ALOT of accelerating! LOL
great product and i havent had an issue in the little time that i have had it. i really dont see a problem occuring in the future.

LucidBD, you installed the pulley about 2 years ago. It seems that we have two groups of people with two different oppinions. Just so we have an update on the facts, would you mind to post how many miles you have driven since you installed the pulley and if you have had any problems caused by it? :pray: I appreciate it.

Bump for recent info.

I did alot of reading on Harmonic Balancers, and Torsional Vibration Dampers, and all sorts of crap.

I have also succesfully ran my Crank Pulley for many months now with no ill effect.

Until my engine catastrophically fails, I will support the crank pulley mod.

Theory and Text is useless without concrete evidence of engine failure in our little engines.

So I will drive my pulley, and see if my engine fails :p If it does, then I will be the first to say I was wrong. If It doesn't blow then w/e it doesnt matter, im not going to rub it in anyones faces. Not like I will be on this forum or even know anyone in this thread 300,000 miles from now.

Anyone else interested in this mod, get it. Because if you think about it, the same crap could be said for every power mod.. "Intakes cause bigger particles in your engine to blow it up" "Headers make less backpressure so your lifters will not seat properly" "Led dome lights will blind you over 10 years" "toxins in fabric will give you the illusion of going fast in hondas" etc, and lol..

I just checked the ZPI Site, they redesigned the pulley to correct noise and torsianal blah blah blah. I wonder if that means that my engine won't blow up with v.2.0?

Hey guys...i am back and catching up on this thread. i hope everyone comes back to read it.

i installed this pulley back in October of 2005!

i currently have it STILL installed on my tC getting close to 2 years later.

i have not had 1 check engine light or anyone at Scion dealership say 1 word to me about it during check ups and what not. this is still my favorite engine mod

those of you who are worried about the cars warranty and messing up the engine...PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING.

These pulleys are the SAME EXACT size in all demensions as the stock pulley...the belts are still spining the SAME DISTANCE they always have. Only now they are spinning FASTER and Easier due to the weight difference.

the other pulleys that are SMALLER in size require a SMALLER belt to go on it....this means the belt is NOT stock...and is changing the Distance and rotation of the pulley.

is this a problem?....probably not. but in the long run...i would rather have the ZPI crank pulley.

you get the saftey AND the gains.

oh...and i have put about 17k miles on my car since i installed this pulley

^^ My concern is that a friend made a valid point. The material which the pulley is made expand 2 to 3 times more than the material of the orignal pulley. This means that once the engine heats up, the pulley becomes slightly larger than the OEM. I wanted your testimonial just to make sure that this change in size due to expansion won't affect the engine's reliability. I guess the change is too insignificant to affect the car... I'll probably get one.

Thanks!

nice !!

cool pix's

Hey LucidBD any new updates? How many miles now? Any problems? I'm gonna be installing mine this weekend..

thanks for the info...great write up

nice write up and pix, im thinking of ordering an 'agency' one soon.

yeah i herd light weight pullys break very easily...how would you be able to break them anyways?

saving for future use

can u use a torch wrench to install this and this may seem dum, but do u need a turbo to make this efective, all i have is a automatic 07 tc with and injen CAI and TRD exhaust would this work for me?

ahhhhhh.
theres no more zpi website.
anybody have a link to where i can purchase the v2.0 crank pulley?

ahhhhhh.
theres no more zpi website.
anybody have a link to where i can purchase the v2.0 crank pulley?

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=188810&highlight=

thanks for the link and as for if you need a turbo, no but you will always see better gains with some type of f/i

Wow this thread did live for a long time. Im installing mine tomorrow with all hand tools. You guys say you needa tighten the pulley to 120 or 150lbs tq? how do i know much to torque down when tightening the nut, when im just using hand tools? lol may seem like a dumb question but do i just tighten it till i cant no more?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a156/gammatnt/car%20stuff3/PB120021.jpg
anyone else's crank bolt looks like that?
i am have trouble removing it.
19mm and 22 mm socket didn't work

Are all the edges messed up or does that bolt have a star kinda pattern?

"toxins in fabric will give you the illusion of going fast in hondas" etc, and lol..

:rofl:

Are all the edges messed up or does that bolt have a star kinda pattern?

the edges are fine, . that bolt have a star pattern.
I am thinking of shave it down to hexagon shape to use regular socket.
But don't know what tool to use to shave it down.

WHOOA! Yo Gamma don't go shaven bolts, WTF, dude just go out to sears or the Snap on or Mac truck and buy the right socket. Then if you don't need it anymore I am sure someone on this post would buy it from you.

Well to update. I installed the pulley today!!! and with just a basic wrench and a galvinite nipple bar to extend the wrench. I dont kno if i misread the DIY but for further advice, when trying to stop the pulley from spinning try putting it in 5th gear ANd stepping on the break. Came right out.

So how do you like it mengsta?

Compared to all the petty bolt ons, (dont have a header yet) the pulley actually gave me somewat of a feel. plus you cant complain since pulleys are cheap. Just sounds a bit louder when turning on the A/C and when idling the belts/pulleys woking makes a louder sound then the OE pulley did but im sure thats normal. Car sumtimes goes to 2k rpm right when it starts. But yeah no problems that i can think of. Im just thinkin since i use hand tools. I must of tightened it wrong?i just tightened it the best i could with my feet. lol and maybe more.

Hmm should i have used loctite blue? or some kind of threadlocker since i installed it with handtools?dammit im too lazy to go do all this again. Please tell me it probably wony get loose lol.

i just dont know witch one to get ZPI or the NST underdrive kit im cunfused :lalala:

ZPI? is ZPI back? im sorry but i thought they went out of business and now owe hella ppl. Every one that buys pulleys gets NST though. Seems like they are the leader. I personally bought brothers. works fine for me. Though it actually seems like im gettin less MPG after the pulley install. SInce revving faster kills gas?

nst, has a underdrive pulley which yields better gains, from my understanding. i will take it to a tuner shop here soon, so they can put it on, cause i dont have impact set, and compressor... talk to nstonaim=screenname, he will answer any questions as he did to me, hope that helps..
also with a underdrive pully you need a new belt, and with just a light weight you use oem belt... belt for underdrive is k060735

nm

Well if you have the OEM diameter pulley, you could do it yourself without an impact set. Very easy. Save the 100 bucks.

dude u cant do it without an impact set. i squirted it down with WD40 and had some pretty hefty friends work at undoing the bolt and it wouldnt ____ing come off. and the car was in gear but the the pulley kept turning a little bit so you couldnt unbolt it completely. help :nails: :pray:

u gotta put it in gear and press the break, so it doenst just turn it. But all that dint work for me, if you dont have an impact set , its still very easy, and kind of funny ina way. Stick yur socket wrench handle, into some kind of bar, like a galvanite nipple(mine was about 18 inches long) and place the bar into the floor, kind of hard to explain but this will make the socket Stick into place, because the car will not push itself off the ground, if the socket is in place and you crank the engine, it will come loose, DO NOT TURN IT ON, just give it a short crank so the pulley turns.

dude im going to try this are you sure im not going to ____ my timing up or anything? im a 5spd so just like crank engind for 1/2 a second? i get what you mean. useing a hollow metal pipe hats long enough to touch the ground. do i got this?

great writeup, this is definitely an hour tops install with the right tools and a friend. adding this on my to-do list =p

yeah, put yur socket on the nut, extend it with a bar onto the ground.make sure u actually like kinda stick the bar into the concrete. i know itz concrete but atleast try to make the bar stay into the ground, then I (you dont needa do this) but I used my feet to keep the bar in place, just in case. And i had a friend crank the engine. Yes im terrible at explaining but i think you get it, Since the socket wrench wont move, since its in the ground, the crank will turn itself. And no u wont ____ anything, just dont turn on the car since it seems very dangerous. Just ONE crank and the thing came lose already, then u can loosen it by hand. I think i was actually the first to do this without a impact wrench, Alot of people actually flamed me and said i was dumb, but i did it and its fine. If u wanna be safe, put a pinch of loctite blue (thread glue) on the nut wen u tighten it back up since once again you would be tightening it without an impact wrench.

MANY MANY THANKS!

I just did the install in about 45min, definate change in the power band!

So did you do it the ghetto way, without an impact tool? On some other thread, i gave this same advice, now they are all calling me stupid. claiming that the wrench will shoot off and break something.

^^^ sounds like the dumb ___ way if u ask me. not smart at all. just one question though has anyone installed one ran it for a couple thousand miles and then tried taking it off ? wwill i need a puller set ? since the stock one slid out. this one wont though. i am trying to go back to stock for the mean time my car is not in use and just swap it out when the nst one comes in. since i get the nst for ten bucks more after selling my zpi one thats the difference. so does a harmonic puller have to be used ? thanks

^No need for any pullers...just your hands and a little force possibly.

So just to be clear, is this doable with hand tools? Will popping it into gear and using a breaker bar work, or should I skip that attempt and just prop the breaker bar on the ground, pull the fuel pump fuse, and crank her up? Or rent/buy air tools? I'd like to avoid spending more money on tools, but I'm willing to if that's what it takes to get the job done right.

Popping it into gear will not work, Or atleast it did not work on the several cars that I've done it on. The shaft will still spin.

Propping the breaker bar is your best option if you dont want to rent air compressor and air gun. But the only way you can do it, is if you really understand what I tried to explain. Make sure the bar is propped in the right direction and is pretty stable into the ground. Dont forget to just crank the engine and to not start the car.

And if you ever did want to pay a little cash. renting air tools would be quick and easy. So its up to you.

Righto. I've watched it done on Hondas and such before and I understand how to do it on the tC. I think I might get an air compressor and an impact wrench just to be safe (and to make my other projects a little easier). Anyone know how much psi will be enough to pop that thing off?

should come right off with 120psi,that is about what i have the impact set at for most things like that over the years.

righto, thanks for the info BZinn.

Cool, you will definitely need the impact set for many future things.

cpomakita.com has refurbed makita corded and cordless impact wrenches (as well as all kinds of cool tools) for cheap. Just an FYI for those out there that are shying away from projects requiring heavy tools. Thanks for the input mengsta.

On a side note, the torque specs for the crank pulley per the "2006 Scion tC Repair Manual (RM1104U)" under 14-18/Engine Mechanical diagram is 133 ft*lbs. I've seen 110 and 150 mentioned and found that in the diagram while doing my homework for the mod.

Did this today. Took about an hour with the marjority of the time getting the belt back in place because it slipped out. Had the impact wrench do the heavy loosening. The belt was off a little bit on the water pulley and had the tension bolt locked out tight, so I put the transmission in neutral and used my breaker bar to turn the crank by hand to thread the belt back on the pulley. Thanks for the how to and all the additional input folks!

these engines are internally balanced...installing this is no diffrent that installing a lighten flywheel. We would not sell it if we thought it would damage it.

you are wrong:rolling:

OMG...seriously...this thread

bump!
I am removing my crank pulley. The car is in gear but the crank is still spinning when I try to loosen the bolt. The car is automatic. How do I keep the crank from spinning?

bump!
I am removing my crank pulley. The car is in gear but the crank is still spinning when I try to loosen the bolt. The car is automatic. How do I keep the crank from spinning?
Inertia, aka use an air ratchet.

these engines are internally balanced...installing this is no diffrent that installing a lighten flywheel. We would not sell it if we thought it would damage it.
This is incorrect. The destroyed bearings in my old block can attest to this.

I am pretty sure you have to use an impact gun or you will never be able to get it off

thank you for the write up Q for the mods can this posting also be labeled for belt change outs?
As this weekend I could not find a way to release tension on the belt until I read this how to

Awesome! now maybe I'll get off my lazy ___ and do mine thats been lying in the trunk of my tc for a month now.

I have you beat. I have had mine in a box for three years. LOL, i have finally got some time to get mine done.

what is the torque setting we need to set to put nut back in?

what is the torque setting we need to set to put nut back in?


very hard to torque a crank pulley bolt just put it on with an impact and some loctite.

PS if anyone is looking to buy a lighten crank pulley Im selling mine.. here is the link

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208775&highlight=agency+power+crank+pulley