How come all strut bars they have right now for tc are always connected by a bolt on each side. By doing that it will allow pivot point on each side that means the strut bar is not really doing its job. Do you know any strut bar that is a solid piece? I want my strut bar to be fixed end on both sides instead of simply supported.

Nevermind.. I just found out that DC strut bar is one solid piece.. cool.

The Hotchkis one is also one piece.

His car has the Hotchkis one on it already. Unless he is a RS1 poser. lol jp

i have the greddy one... i can feel the difference in my cornering from before

i have the greddy one... i can feel the difference in my cornering from beforegood, I'm expecting to get my money's worth on the Greddy bars :)

i got the dc works great fits really nice..

I have the GReddy one and I think it looks awesome. I already have the Hotchkis Sways on so I cant feel that much of a difference after I installed the GReddy strut bar. Now just waiting on the GReddy rear strut bar. Awesome for looks.

i have the greddy bar as well and if you tighten that bolt like you're supposed to there will be no pivoting.

i love my dc sports strut bar it made a killer amount of diffrence in my handling

I have the GReddy one and I think it looks awesome. I already have the Hotchkis Sways on so I cant feel that much of a difference after I installed the GReddy strut bar. Now just waiting on the GReddy rear strut bar. Awesome for looks.where did you get them and how much?

how much? thanks

greddy's cost about $150 but you can find it alot cheaper on ebay...

greddy's cost about $150 but you can find it alot cheaper on ebay...well i asked him specifically but I'm waiting on a group buy $115 each.

What are the pros and cons of Hotchkis, DC, and Greddy? DC appears to cost less than $90 whereas Hotchkis is $138 and Greddy is more? Is there any reason to not get the DC other than personal aesthetic preference? Anyone have a DC and is disappointed? Are any easier/harder to install?

What are the pros and cons of Hotchkis, DC, and Greddy? DC appears to cost less than $90 whereas Hotchkis is $138 and Greddy is more? Is there any reason to not get the DC other than personal aesthetic preference? Anyone have a DC and is disappointed? Are any easier/harder to install?

id love to know too.

Nathan
ycart1201

The greddy bar looks the best IMO. They are made of "Monocoque aluminum tube shaft" Really regarding performance i dont' think there is a difference at all. But greddy looks better than the hotchkis, Megan, and DC bars. Monstermotor works probably has the best rear brace. Greddy has one also, but the monster looks pretty stout and is hidden

i'm very happy with the saw my DC bar performs, and it was cheap too

Very happy with my DC, install was a slight PITA. Instructions included were a little off

[shameless plug] I have Greddy strut bars coming in this Friday if you guys want one[/shameless plug]

anybody have pics of their strutbars intalled?

What are the pros and cons of Hotchkis, DC, and Greddy? DC appears to cost less than $90 whereas Hotchkis is $138 and Greddy is more? Is there any reason to not get the DC other than personal aesthetic preference? Anyone have a DC and is disappointed? Are any easier/harder to install?

i have one.. its nice and i love it.. i got it for 90$ too, well a while back. My friends seems to say kool when they see it. It's doesnt look like those boring look bar its one solid piece. The handling is nice too but since i got soo use to it i cant feel it n e more. It's black and will look good with ur engine bay IF everything else in there is black LOL... I had ONE problem installing it. But it wasn't major. When putting the bar, this metal from the engine bay was blocking.. I cant quite explain but yeah... It's all good tho... I'll gladly show pics but then again im at work!

Greddy bar sucks ballz, DC sports is stiffer.
Proof:
http://roadracemotorsports.com/images/before.jpg

Greddy bar sucks ballz, DC sports is stiffer.
Proof:
http://roadracemotorsports.com/images/before.jpg


lol awesome... hmmm...

Greddy bars dont have red end plates

Greddy bars dont have red end plates
...and the plot thickens.

Well not really. The car in the background appears to be sponsored primarily by Greddy, so why would they bash their own product in what may be their shop? That's probably a picture of them bashing on some lesser company's bar.

Just a guess.

The strut bar pictured is the same adjustable type/design of the greddy, they just dont work. I wouldnt waste a dime on a hinge bar. The hinge is the weak point, and by stepping on it you can see the bar bending.... Not good.

My point is to buy a tube strut bar, go out and buy a dc strut bar and step on it, its gonna be ultra stiff, and what you want.

Think wisely.

Here is an example of a single tube strut bar, the DC Sports is 2 tubes welded together. So just visualize.

http://roadracemotorsports.com/images/after.jpg

The strut bar pictured is the same adjustable type/design of the greddy, they just dont work. I wouldnt waste a dime on a hinge bar. The hinge is the weak point, and by stepping on it you can see the bar bending.... Not good.

My point is to buy a tube strut bar, go out and buy a dc strut bar and step on it, its gonna be ultra stiff, and what you want.

Think wisely.

Here is an example of a single tube strut bar, the DC Sports is 2 tubes welded together. So just visualize.

http://roadracemotorsports.com/images/after.jpg
Well, makes me feel better about putting the DC Sports bar on my Xmas list.

LOL, I totally disagree. First off the Greddy is much bigger and stronger than the one they chose to show. It is of much higher quality. Secondly the direction they are bending the strut bar in is not even a test of how well the strut bar works. The DC is a fine strut bar and the Greddy is a fine strut bar. To me it's just a matter or taste and appearance. I really wish DC made a sway bar so you could have a nice matching set. I am not a big fan of DC however, don't know why, just not. I think Greddy makes awesome stuff though.

All I know is those are some REALLY nice brakes on that EVO in the background :lalala:

All I know is those are some REALLY nice brakes on that EVO in the background :lalala:
Agreed.

Thx for posting those picture zero. That was my point. I guess you are right that they do exist. I forgot about the DC strut bar. The reason why the other one bent alot more is because it has rotation on both sides (engineering term= simply supported). The DC one are fixed on both ends so it is alot stiffer. :clap: :clap: DC all the way :clap: :clap:

Anyone in colorado want to trade their dc sport strut bar with hotchkis?

Hinges kill the design, it doesnt matter how strong the material is, the weak point will still be there.

DC SPORTS > All [/thread]

What about TANABE brand. Is it any good. Funky color though.

Neither the sway nor the strut are under tremendous stress so at some point it is all overkill. The design is made to fit the application. They (Greddy) could make something that doesn't have an ounce of flex but since that is not required nor desired they chose to go with lighter materials that do the job well. You guys are reading way too much into it. Why don't they just put an elephant on each bar and let that be the test? A human standing on the sway bar is in no way a reflection of how the bar performs.

Here's my tanabe....

http://home.comcast.net/~TheDesperfamily/Gallery/engine.jpg

For what the bar does, there is hardly any movement at all in a "Hinged" direction... it's there to tie the two struts together, stiffening the chassis in the process....

For what 99.99 Percent of guys on here do...

You would never know the difference...


The Strut bar is 75% looks / 25 % Purpose.

Sorry to thread jack but does anyone have the TRD front strut bar? It looks like a single tube design. I just saw it on sparks and was wondering if anybody is running it?

:rofl:

Sorry to thread jack but does anyone have the TRD front strut bar? It looks like a single tube design. I just saw it on sparks and was wondering if anybody is running it?yea it single tube non hinged.....it looks good imo with the trd badge an all......hahah i want this strut bar too

I just got my trd strut bar today. I am loving it so far. I'll try to post a picture of it later. Seems like a very strong bar.

I just got my trd strut bar today. I am loving it so far. I'll try to post a picture of it later. Seems like a very strong bar.

Take a picture of someone standing on it. :lol:

i think dc sport's front strut bar spoils the look of the engine bay.

it covers the vvti logo on the engine cover. :nope:

i think dc sport's front strut bar spoils the look of the engine bay.

it covers the vvti logo on the engine cover. :nope:
That's why I'm planning to follow it up with a carbon fiber engine cover.

I plan on going all trd so trd strut bar. I trust trd

I have the Hotchkis,, I believe the Dc sport would be the best as far a stability... then again.. how much of a diffrence could you actually notice from one to the other.. I didn't buy the Dc because it just looks obnoxious, it's too big.. the good thing about the Hochkis is: you can remove the bar in about two minutes incase you ever needed to acsess that area..

I'm happy with it: Hotchkis strut brace

Here's my tanabe....

http://home.comcast.net/~TheDesperfamily/Gallery/engine.jpg

For what the bar does, there is hardly any movement at all in a "Hinged" direction... it's there to tie the two struts together, stiffening the chassis in the process....

For what 99.99 Percent of guys on here do...

You would never know the difference...


The Strut bar is 75% looks / 25 % Purpose.

Nice pic ! I think we should start a thread with all engine pics !

Also: I thought the Tanabe strut brace would be red like it showed in the pictures.. lol
*Can't any of these web sites hook us up with some accurate product pics .. WTF !

I have the Dc as well. And I noticed a very minimal difference. But like someone pointed out, How often are you running that close to the tC's handling edge?

Oh and DC sports needs a rear bar and lower bars as well to complete it all.

You have a point, but some people do AutoX their car, and these parts are vital to them... but your right, a lot of DD tC's like me, will not be pushing it.

here's my dc bar. pic is an old one. i have a cf engine cover and megan headers on now

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y161/mjzahabi/scion%2012-16-05/Img_5232.jpg

Am I too late with my TRD bar? OMG, I love this bar besides the point that I need springs and sway bars for this car. Why couldn't it be like my Mazda Protege5 where the strut bar comes factory?

http://members.cox.net/starboy5000/121505/1219051359.jpg
http://members.cox.net/starboy5000/121505/1219051359a.jpg

so its ok to just get a STRUT bar if this is all i can afford at the moment?

I want a sway but does putting a strut bar help for a 'just for now' install?

Why couldn't it be like my Mazda Protege5 where the strut bar comes factory?


Haha because it's a Toyota and is made better! That's why :silly:

so dc bar is nowt he strongest?

Jspec, how much of a difference did you feel when you drove w/ the strut bar and when you drove plain stock?

I am pretty sure strut bar doesnt really affect you that much on daily driving. Especially because you have to stop at each intersection before you turn. You really have to do fast sharp turn to really feel it.

anyone have a cusco bar? if so post a pic and does the dc sports strut bar dc sticker come off? i dont like the logo

Just for reference, tubes(strut bars) are much stronger in compression(pushing in from the ends) compaired to bending(standing on it). The loads applied by the struts are more of a compresison force then bending, hence the bar being able to support your weight doesn't prove anything besides basic statics.

I installed my Hotchkis bar yesterday, haven't really driven it enough, so i don't know one way or the other on rigidness... Install was pretty easy, sans the bolt on the driver's side that was difficult to remove with that metal piece in the way. Heh, i also thought i was gonna drop the bolt into the engine bay a couple times, but i lucked out.


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2113000-2113999/2113105_19_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2113000-2113999/2113105_20_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2113000-2113999/2113105_21_full.jpg

What types of force do strut bars control? I was almost ready to order front and rear greddy bars. However if the pivot point AKA bolt weakens it like someone suggested then the greddy will not be a very good bar.

IMO, best bars would be Hotchkis, TRD (Hotchkis again), or DC Sports.

I'd prefer Hotchkis b/c it looks hawt. :) That and the rest of my suspension will eventually be Hotchkis.

As for the force... I think it's a cornering thing. It's supposed to prevent the front of the chassis from flexing, as it ties the two strut towers together - stiffens the front end.

Thing is when you install, you have to be sure you're installing it with the front end jacked up or you're wasting your time. That way there is no load on the bar when you install it.

DC gets my vote for ugliest but seems..................................most effective???

Found this @beamer site.

Ok, why do I talk about a well designed bar?
The best bar would have no link to it and shouldn't be adjustable, because you want NO flex in the bar (it kind of defies the purpose). Else you will just buy a worthless piece of engine jewelry.

Another Link:
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/STB/what_is_a_bar.html

Looks like hinges suck!

good point ack

It's probably debateable. It seems that you just want to look for a one piece. The performance benefit from each of the one piece bars is probably negligible.

Where as between a one piece and a "hinged" bar, you MIGHT notice a difference.

like JohnAkAHooch said there is only compression force on the bar the fact the bar is solid or hinged really dosent matter. on adjustable bars u can set some pre load on the towers. which that alone would be more noticable(stiffer) than any one peice bar could ever be. you guys do have a point that one peice bars are stronger than hinged bars but they are not adjustable, harder to install/take out. and if you are putting enough stress on your car to bend a greedy or simaliar bar the fact the bar is bending is the last thing i would worry about

Not really concerned about bending. If the hinged part swivels under a load then the bars not really doing its job. Which is to force the towers to stay in place.

"The best bar would have no link to it and shouldn't be adjustable, because you want NO flex in the bar (it kind of defies the purpose). Else you will just buy a worthless piece of engine jewelry"

OK, So if we assume that all quality front strut bars are basically equal, is there enough flex in the TC's chassis to justify installation of a rear strut bar?

Also, do the Greddy or monstermotor rear strut bars interfere with the use of the rear seats?

Eddy

Are TRD strut bars and DC ones are the only one piece strut bars available?

OK, So if we assume that all quality front strut bars are basically equal, is there enough flex in the TC's chassis to justify installation of a rear strut bar?

Also, do the Greddy or monstermotor rear strut bars interfere with the use of the rear seats?

Eddy

no,
everything in the rear is stil 100% useable... except for the babyseat strap hook points (but i tink you can still use them, just harder to get too)

Are TRD strut bars and DC ones are the only one piece strut bars available?

Only 1-piece i've seen. Dc sports looks like it would prevent various forces better.

MMW makes the only 1-piece for the rear. I think.

so is the rear monster motorworks is just for looks?

Hope not-looks like install will F-up the hatch area.

^^huh?

You have to cut some of your interior pieces to install the bar... since the strut towers in the rear are covered by trim/carpet, etc.

It looks like the bar actually crosses right behind the headrests with back seats up. So when you drop sets for cargo room you'll still have a bar their. YUCK!

oh....screw that lol

no... i believe the MMW one is right behind the back seats and at the deep corner of the cargo area... the one that goes above the backseats and across between the rear seat belts is called c-pillar bar from Megan i think... i am not sure where the Greddy rear strut goes... but is DC the most effective one becuz it's one piece? or TRD one? someone said Hotchkis one can be easily removed if you need to install something else if it's in your way to do so? what about DC one then? Is it hard to remove if you need to remove it for installing something else?

^^ Oh, you are correct... the rear strut bar does go below the seats under the floor.

See thread: http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=77428&highlight=rear+strut+bar

Good catch!

Man... and after looking at that, the MMW Rear Strut bar is on sale for $120 now too... damn me and my no money.

Will the MMW help anything down there? I mean the strut tops are were the megan one fits right? Also who has MMW for $120?

The MMW site has it on sale right now.

According to that thread I posted above, it does make a difference. I mean, it's the same principle as the front one, it's making the chassis a little more rigid.

Strut bars are all about rigidity and keeping struts in proper alignment. So yes itstdt i'd have to say based on design the DC front bar should be the most effective.(although i'm not an engineeer) Still ugly tho :)

The MMW looks like it bolts to the floor pan. Does not "look" like it would show much improvement. But then again niether does a front bar considering the towers are attached to the firewall. Its because of this that I have been and am still skeptical of the gains from these parts.

The rear one really is bolting to the strut tower bolts. There are two right there, that it uses, and then one other strut tower bolt on the other side that you can't see.

but do you really need 3 or 4 bars on the car? I mean... front and rear struts, front and rear sways? Would those combined be too much rigidity? I am still having dilemma whether I should go DC or TRD or Hotchkis strut, but I am pretty sure I will get Progress Rear sway bar... Any opinions?

Ack and I are setting up for autox. Can there car be made too stiff? I don't know i'm just trying to get set up well-I have zero autox experience. Ack on the other hand raced last season virtually stock.

As for the right parts for you. What you want the car to do should dictate the parts. There's really no point in setting up to pull .91G if you never intend to go past .85G. The best advice I can give you is that aside from the tires the rear sway bar is the weakest link in the tc's carving ability.

^^ Ditto. Unless you're doing some sort of racing or are a VERY aggressive driver, decent tires and a rear sway should set the car up nicely. If you want something nice looking under the hood, get a front strut bar. If you want to lower your car and give it an aggressive stance with a stiffer ride, get springs/coilovers.

i am still waiting for the mmw front strut bar... it was supposally coming out how long ago?

umm... for nice looking under the hood, i think Hotchkis strut looks the best... but I am not sure if I'd set up the car for autox now since I am a daily driver... but I am sure I want a nice looking car from inside to outside

In looking at the TC's design, I'd guess the glass roof does make the more prone to flexing.

Ingalls Engineering as an interesting looking rear shock bracke that looks like it has 4 attachment points. Has anyone tried this yet?

^^bump cuz I wanna know

In looking at the TC's design, I'd guess the glass roof does make the more prone to flexing.

Ingalls Engineering as an interesting looking rear shock bracke that looks like it has 4 attachment points. Has anyone tried this yet?
You can see it here:
http://www.ingallseng.com/Featured.htm

But I don't think anyone even has it yet. Couldn't find much in search except "it's not out yet."

i got a question,so is it smarter to invest in sway bars or strut bars. i don't care for looks at all, jus better handling. i don;t wanna get strut and sways, jus strut or sways.

Handling: Sway Bars first. At the very least rear. Most people have noticed a significant change just by installing a rear bar. The front is up to you. And so far, Hotchkis is the only one making a front bar. Those "suspension techniques" people look like they're going to make one, but no one's sure if it's available.

I'd say Hotchkis over them first anyways if you want a front bar.

If you just want rear, even the TRD or Progress bars would probably make a nice difference.

I with ack all the way on this. If your looking for some improvement on a daily driver tires and a rear sway should be enough to satisfy. With just this setup and a manual I can take virtually any curve at double the posted speed. If your wanting to make your car look good-go with the best looking strut bar. Greddy blue/silver best lookin IMO.

If your setting up for competition:
Hotchkis Sways
DC Front Strut (some prefer Hotchkis but its not a one piece)
Ingalls Rear Strut (AWESOME find ep1474)

For coilovers: It looks like Buddy Club is producing some killer coilovers for the tc. There not listed on the BC site yet but BC sales rep said they are on the way.

link for the rear strut???

I just installed my hotchkis rear sway bar a couple days ago and there is definitely a difference. Much quicker and/or more accuracy in turning. I've had the trd strut installed for almost 3 weeks now and I dind't notice much difference, but I kept it because, from what I gathered, it supports the firewall mostly preventing wear and flex over time. I am installing my hotchkis front sway bar tomorrow. I'm sure the slight roll to the front will disappear from noticeability altogether. At about $330 for the both of em, I'd say it's reasonably priced.

WOW! I've broken two 14mm sockets trying to remove the last bolt on the engine pan. this is f'd up. the book says they should be torqued to 45 ft-lbs in the install section. I think factory exceeded that to say the least.

240 shipped for both TRD front and rear sway from mc george.......what kind of tools are you using that fail under 45lbs? WOW

Here's my TRD strut bar -- I want it to be blue:

http://www.webspacedesigns.com/tC/images/eng-comp-preSC.jpg[/img]

well, the first socket was an extended 14mm 12 point kobalt and the second was an extended 14mm 6 point craftsman. I don't really want to cut the bolt just so I can use a standard length 14mm socket, but I think aside from using an impact drill grade socket that's what I'd have to do. I used my standard length on the other 3 nuts and removed them with some muscle. Not sure why the bolts are different lengths though.

take that socket back to sears.....they will give you a new one, did you try some WD40 or anything to help break the bolt?

Here's my TRD strut bar -- I want it to be blue:

http://www.webspacedesigns.com/tC/images/eng-comp-preSC.jpg[/img]

Mines blue!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/gjpjr84/HPIM1468.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/gjpjr84/HPIM1467.jpg

I just put in my DC strut bar and TRD rear sway.
it is quite a difference!

i really got to get the dc strut bar. i am just waiting to find a really good sale on it.

gjpjr84 I like what you did with the DC bar.

On a weird side note- I always read your posts but I never (until now) had actually seen your username. All I see is that damn clown and I know it's you.

i really got to get the dc strut bar. i am just waiting to find a really good sale on it.
Same deal over here, the best I can find currently (not sale) is $90 at killertc.com and a couple of other places.

gjpjr84 I like what you did with the DC bar.

On a weird side note- I always read your posts but I never (until now) had actually seen your username. All I see is that damn clown and I know it's you.

Thanks and :rofl:, my username is hard enough to read and understand at least the clown is easy and recognizable enough for people to identify me. I love it.


btw Havok has the DC strut bar $90 shipped, that where I got mine.
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=94151&highlight=havok

i really got to get the dc strut bar. i am just waiting to find a really good sale on it.

$92 shipped from drivewire.com. Doubt you'll be able to find a better shipped price.

link i gave above has it for $90 shipped. :lalala:

Greddy blue >*

Strut tower bars = engine jewlrey.

So I'm slightly confused about the front sway bar. I've had it installed for a few days now and it reduced what roll was left for sways to reduce (springs would be next). However, my front sway shifts left to right and rubs on the engine cradle link to the wheel. This is the passenger side only. I've loosened up the bushings to center it again, but after a couple hard corners it's off center again. I know the bushings are greased to allow for movement, but I thought that was for up/down, not sideways. Can anyone clarify for me or should I call Hotchkis?

there have always been rubbing issues with the front sways for our cars.

and actually a front sway upgrade on a FWD car is not really a good idea.

That's it? You're going to leave that comment at that? To elaborate on "a front sway upgrade on a FWD car is not really a good idea" would be rather helpful to at least me if not others who aren't aware. I can't say that I've read anything regarding a negative impact on a front sway upgrade for FWD car, so please enlighten us.

oh sorry,

just a rear sway and a stock front sway will keep the back end grounded and allow the front to adjust enough so that the back end can stay grounded. stiffening the front would get rid of that and your would lose traction in your back end.

there is an article that would explain it better, i will try and find it....
well i can't find it it was posted a long while ago..

search for sway bars or front sways in the tC catagory that would bring up a lot.

oh sorry,

just a rear sway and a stock front sway will keep the back end grounded and allow the front to adjust enough so that the back end can stay grounded. stiffening the front would get rid of that and your would lose traction in your back end.



Depends on the driver

:no:

Here is my strut tower bar.. Hey gjpjr (Lupe) where did you get that wonderful Powdercoating idea.. lol, the one that B. Jason hooked me up with.. lol...

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/HighlanderMac9/IMG_0180.jpg

oh sorry,

just a rear sway and a stock front sway will keep the back end grounded and allow the front to adjust enough so that the back end can stay grounded. stiffening the front would get rid of that and your would lose traction in your back end.



Depends on the driver

:no:

:blah: :blah: :blah:

That's a poor response. You can say that about ANY suspension setup. You could run a big sway in the rear and NO sway up front and still manage to understeer into a guardrail.

An upgraded rear sway and the stock front sway is a great setup if you've tuned out alot of the bodyroll already by upgrading to correct spring-rates. (Which is how it should be done anyways.) Running aftermarket swaybars just-because, or using too-big swaybars to compensate for a poor spring or coilover setup introduces its own set of problems.

As far as the stut-tower bars go, they should be towards the bottom of your list of "bang for the buck" suspension mods imo.

ha, i didn't have to say it.

oops my bad I read that wrong....I take it back.

Is that an old pic? I thought H-mac had a header. When are we going to the drag strip?

Well I know i'll be there in 2 weeks. NHRA in baytown. FEEL THE POWER!!!

ues thats an old pic of mac's car. he does have a header

Most definately an old pic..... I havent taken any of my baby in a while.. She may not get much work done for a little while.. Gotta save up to make the numbers.

Aight. Holla when your ready. Tc drag strip night would be a hella good time.

Maybe I can break into 14's.

I had to add to this thread again.. it's been about two years maybe more, dang time flies. well I am dumping my Hotchkis starut bar for a DC, I wish I did this in the beginning, I would have saved some money. If anyone has not purchased a strut bar yet research it very well, I did!

i went with the DC at first as well, i liked the design of it with the dual bars cause it was so different then the others. i powdercoated mine to match. love it.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/gjpjr84/McNatt%202007/7-14_07_Mcnatt088.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/gjpjr84/HPIM1468.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/gjpjr84/strutbar2.jpg

can you beleive that the powdercoating was just a random color the shop had in stock, called prismatic misty midnight or something to that effect

i have the dc sports as well. the only thing i don't like about it is that the valve cover can't be taken off with it on.

^^ yes it can, its a pain but i have done it. you have to unscrew it and slide it to one side.
however, next time i take mine off im leaving it off

Wow, I like that powder coating, that's nice work. I know someone who told me he would powder coat all my brake calipers, but he told me he would have to disassemble the calipers completely, I really don't want to do that so I guess I'll wait.
But anyways the DC bar looks FRESH!

I'm not happy with the way my Greddy Strut Bar fits on the towers. It wraps all the way around and it's uneven......and the spacers they give you are too high......but it looks nice, I want the TRD strut bar!!!!!!!!