so im just about done with install, phhewww! (i will give you the review of the install later). however, i still need to run the vacuum lines. for the vacuum lines from BOV and wastegate where do i run them to with a T (which line is it on the throttle body)? i know the wastegate is rerouted around the block and T'ed along with the BOV's line, but i dont know which line it is. also which is the fuel pump fuse? i know where the fuses are, but after reading them, i didnt see any for a fuel pump fuse. finally, what do i do with that hose from my previous intake? it went from the engine to the weapon r intake pipe. as soon as i get these done, im boosted. please help, please forgive me if these are dumb newbie questions, but i really need help. thank you all for the assistance.

so im just about done with install, phhewww! (i will give you the review of the install later). however, i still need to run the vacuum lines. for the vacuum lines from BOV and wastegate where do i run them to with a T (which line is it on the throttle body)? i know the wastegate is rerouted around the block and T'ed along with the BOV's line, but i dont know which line it is. also which is the fuel pump fuse? i know where the fuses are, but after reading them, i didnt see any for a fuel pump fuse. finally, what do i do with that hose from my previous intake? it went from the engine to the weapon r intake pipe. as soon as i get these done, im boosted. please help, please forgive me if these are dumb newbie questions, but i really need help. thank you all for the assistance.

The vacuum line on the throttle body is the line on the left side of the throttle body while you are facing the engine. This line if you follow it will go to the vacuum regulator (which makes all the clicking sounds). Cut this line near the vacuum regulator and place your T in line here. Make triple sure you have no leaks. (I pray you have a boost gauge.) Also, on the wastegate, do not use the opening on the face of it (with the writing), use the opening that is on the side of it (which I belive is now on top).

The hose that went to the PCV you can leave removed. I personally went to the auto parts store and bought a plastic holder with a little filter that slides in. I hooked this up. Oil vapor will come out of this and the little filter works perfect to trap it.

I ran my vacuum line in front...but you can see where it attaches to the waste gate and see the T (I have 2 T's because of a boost gauge as well)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/kirchwrk/P9190118.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/kirchwrk/P9190117.jpg


In This picture, you can see the little white filter holder on the PCV spot that used to go to your air intake.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/kirchwrk/P9160115.jpg

I can't stress enough that people should install a boost gauge when going turbo. Any vacuum leak and you will increase your boost and not know it. Use hose clamps (I just ordered some T bolt clamps...look nice) on each of your vacuum line connections. You don't want one falling off. Even tho it may look connected with no leaks does not mean it's good. Boost gauges are not expensive compared to running 12 psi on a stage 0 setup.

Make sure your return oil line to the oil pan is direct with no sag for oil to pool. Make sure it will not rub on anything hot or metal edges to cut over time. These engines move ALOT. And make sure that line is clamped with hose clamps on both ends. An oil pressure gauge is also very nice for peace of mind.

Hmm, I wonder if ZPI is hiring. :rofl: :rofl:

i knew you would come through. i ordered a gauge yesterday. thank you so much sciondad. question though, if i cut the vacuum line near the regulator and place a T in it, that leaves 2 outlets to the vacuum lines (1 in the vacuum line, 1 to BOV and 1 to wastegate), what about the previous line to the throttle body?

i knew you would come through. i ordered a gauge yesterday. thank you so much sciondad.

Your welcome. You will enjoy the kick in the pants boost. :clap:

Cool your gauge is on it's way. I would be gentle until it's installed. I ran oure for a few blocks. Parked it and rechecked all the connections and any oil leaks, .. Then drove it around playing a little. Just be gentle without a gauge.

Also, keep an eye out on the wastegate gaskets (one to manifold and other to dump tube). Both of mine blew out and I believe a few others ran into this. You can see the screen instead of the gasket material....and over time you will see exhaust marks at the point of blown (plus it's a little noisier).

I googled Tial wastegate gaskets and this seems to be a very common problem with them. They are one of the best but their gaskets suck. :rofl: ZPI has (had?) some copper ones (aftermarket) that are gauranteed to never blow. I ordered 2 from them. No problem since.

Do you have plans to install colder plugs and fully synthetic oil? The plugs will make a difference and the synthetic will help prevent coking in the turbo. Oh yea, if your not running premium....I would start. Small change to help prevent detonation.

i knew you would come through. i ordered a gauge yesterday. thank you so much sciondad. question though, if i cut the vacuum line near the regulator and place a T in it, that leaves 2 outlets to the vacuum lines (1 in the vacuum line, 1 to BOV and 1 to wastegate), what about the previous line to the throttle body?

You will need a couple of "T"'s to work with. Actually , a vacuum block is best (and cheap), but T's work.

1) Cut the main vacuum line then place a T in. Now your throttle body and vacuum regulator are back together and you have one tap available from the T.

2) Take a small piece of hose and place another T off this available from step 1. Now you have 2 taps available for your waste gate and BOV.

When you get your gauge, change it a little using another T. Cut the waste gate line for example and install the T. The available tap attach your gauge.

You might consider a vacuum block. It makes it look so much cleaner and less worry about a plastic T crushing or cracking.

yeah im running full synthetic, as well as premium (on 2 weeks now). you talking about the iridium plugs you posted about? any idea on my question about T'ing the vacuum lines and what happens to the previous line (now being used) from the throttle body?

double posted...man this forum is slowwwwwwww

thanks sciondad.

thanks sciondad.

No problem...anything I can do to help...just pm me.

my car idles very poorly, and stalls at times. i took it out for a light light drive, and when i got back the CEL was on. anyone have any clue as to what i should do? i checked to make sure everything was tight, but to no avail.

my car idles very poorly, and stalls at times. i took it out for a light light drive, and when i got back the CEL was on. anyone have any clue as to what i should do? i checked to make sure everything was tight, but to no avail.

I sent you a PM.

A vacuum leak will make it idle bad. When you installed the wastegate and BOV connections...make sure you used both washers included for each nozzle or you will leak. Some people don't see that there is 2 and just thread it on. One is for top and one for bottom with nozzle in the middle.

Also, I presume you disconnected the battery for a while to reset the ECU. It needs to learn the air flow change.

Did you do the antifouler mod?

i had a CEL from the inception of the installation, but tonight as i was starting my car for a drive, the CEL didnt come on. i thought maybe that LED or the fuse to that part of the gauge was short/blown, but when i turned it off and put the key on ACC, the check engine light displayed. i can still feel and see the slight fluctuation in idle as it bobs up and down between 1k-400 RPM, so i know there's still some issues with the ECU reading the flow of air, exhaust, etc. i still plan on installing the 2 drilled/bored out antifoulers offered by ZPI to regulate the gas mileage and correct the idling. can anyone explain as to why the CEL is gone for now?

i had a CEL from the inception of the installation, but tonight as i was starting my car for a drive, the CEL didnt come on. i thought maybe that LED or the fuse to that part of the gauge was short/blown, but when i turned it off and put the key on ACC, the check engine light displayed. i can still feel and see the slight fluctuation in idle as it bobs up and down between 1k-400 RPM, so i know there's still some issues with the ECU reading the flow of air, exhaust, etc. i still plan on installing the 2 drilled/bored out antifoulers offered by ZPI to regulate the gas mileage and correct the idling. can anyone explain as to why the CEL is gone for now?

Nope, but I wouldn't complain. If the ECU even thinks there's a problem that light goes on....It's recurring income for most dealers. :rofl:

Quick question sciondad, with the colder plugs did you change the gap at all?? Or is it still .044?? I know on the iridium plugs they don’t like to be gaped but I was wondering if maybe we should older a slightly different plug with a different gap then stock.

whats the part number or name on the colder plugs?

Quick question sciondad, with the colder plugs did you change the gap at all?? Or is it still .044?? I know on the iridium plugs they don’t like to be gaped but I was wondering if maybe we should older a slightly different plug with a different gap then stock.

I left them as gaped from production. I don't remember what they were, but they were all the same. :rofl:

whats the part number or name on the colder plugs?

Ask for Denso Stock number 5310. When they look at the box of 4, it will say the DENSO stock number 5310 and have IK22 listed as well. These are Iridium plugs

if you want cheap & good, NGK BKR7e part number 6097. its what the honda boys run up til 400whp, after that its 7173 or something. they are copper plugs but work like a charm. For a boosted car i'd recommend closing the factory gap of .044 down to .032 to .030. the smaller gap helps with resisting detonation of having the longer duration spark. I think i've put these plugs on atleast 50 different hondas without any problems. plus go to napa and you can have them in 2 days. and 2 bucks a pop.

SCIONDAD'S THE MAN!!! i know who to hit up if i get any problems!! keep it up man.

SCIONDAD'S THE MAN!!! i know who to hit up if i get any problems!! keep it up man.

let me tell you from first hand experience, this is completely true.

the damn CEL is back :tap: . i need those antifoulers... :pray:

the damn CEL is back :tap: . i need those antifoulers... :pray:

Then that tells me the antifouler trick will work for you. It appears to be border line. :clap:

the damn CEL is back :tap: . i need those antifoulers... :pray:

Then that tells me the antifouler trick will work for you. It appears to be border line. :clap:

well the thing is i have 1 antifouler in the stock spipe right now. i bought it from clubsciontc to correct the initial CEL. when i put it on there was no CEL for about 5 miles, which i assume is around the distance and amount of airflow it took the ECU to read it. from there on the CEL was constant until recently but now has returned.

i talked to kenny after i installed the first antifouler from clubsciontc, and he said that it might not be going off because i need 2 (one in the first 02 sensor in the downpipe, and one in the spipe). in addition, the ones he will be sending me are drilled. im assuming drilling them is an adjustment to the airflow for the ECU.

the damn CEL is back :tap: . i need those antifoulers... :pray:

Then that tells me the antifouler trick will work for you. It appears to be border line. :clap:

well the thing is i have 1 antifouler in the stock spipe right now. i bought it from clubsciontc to correct the initial CEL. when i put it on there was no CEL for about 5 miles, which i assume is around the distance and amount of airflow it took the ECU to read it. from there on the CEL was constant until recently but now has returned.

i talked to kenny after i installed the first antifouler from clubsciontc, and he said that it might not be going off because i need 2 (one in the first 02 sensor in the downpipe, and one in the spipe). in addition, the ones he will be sending me are drilled. im assuming drilling them is an adjustment to the airflow for the ECU.

Maybe you misunderstood him. You should leave the downpipe sensor alone. That is important. You will use 2 antifoulers - both on the S-Pipe. Basically, you are moving the 02 heat sensor away from the exhaust stream enough to make the ECU think there is still a first cat installed.

This is what I did ...along with most others on here. It only pertains to the S-Pipe sensor. The down pipe 02 sensor should be left alone.

Go to the auto parts store and for $4.00 pick up a pack of 18mm spark plug antifoulers. Drill one of them completely out with a 1/2" drill bit. Make it clean.

Then...screw the regular antifouler into the bung on the S-Pipe. Then screw the "drilled" out antifouler onto this one. Then screw the sensor into the drilled out one.

Order of install

S-Pipe Bung - antifouler - drilled antifouler - 02 Sensor

I have also had the best luck with NGK copper plugs in a boosted engine;)


Rick

ahhhh i see what he meant with "2 antifoulers."

good thing we went through this, before i installed one in the downpipe.

well if you would have installed one on the primary o2 sensor, you could ahve upgraded the engine alot quicker than expected.