just installed a blitz compressor system on an XA. also installed was a blitz sus intake, and nur exhaust. no baseline was done. but it only made 105 whp on the dyno. since most baseline at 85-90 whp. this is weak. $ 3500 for 15 hp. not a good investment.

the af is completely lean too. it is like 18 :1 from 1000 to 2000. the compressor engages at 2k, and the af drops to 14.9 ish. stays that lean till 5200 where it gets a little richer towards redline. final is 12.9 ish around redline. still way too lean. ( well, it didn't ping, so that's a plus)

definetly needs a better fuel computer, more injector, and better spark plugs.

oh yeah, the car still had a full tank of 87, the kit recommends 91. there was no audible pinging, but the knock sensor is more acute than a stethoscope. it may have been knocking a little, and pulling back timing.

but anyway, the compressor system is definetly not worth the money in my opinion.

:shock:

ouch.

Damn. That option just got thrown out the window.

did the kit come with the upgraded ecu

i wouldn't call it an ecu. it's a piggyback unit that splices into the factory harness. it simply increases the amount of fuel delivered so it doesn't run super lean ( although it does anyway).

the over all quality of the kit is top notch. every bracket, spacer, bolt, belt and nut fit perfectly with no modifications. the instructions were great.

however, the power is definetly lacking.

if the kit was around 2k rather than 3500 msrp , it would be a better buy,.

Thanks for the first hand info! I've been waiting for someone on this forum to hit us up with a real 411 on the blitz. The one really cool thing about the Blitz SC is the magnetic clutch. I think it's patented so will probably be lacking in any more powerful alternatives that come along.

yeah the clutch is pretty cool . it can activate the supercharger at 25 50 or 75 percent throttle.

there is also an off switch. but, with the switch in the offf position, it made 70 whp. far less because the air is being sucked through the blower, and the extra parasitic drag to spin the extra pulleys.

no difference in peak hp with the switch in the lo, med, or high position.

See.....this is why I'm waiting. Oh......and because I have no money. :lol:

Thanks for the info. Tired of hearing info from people that either don't have the kits......or are trying to sell them.

KiL

thanks for the update

:cry:

can you pease tell me what other modifications you have done with the car ex: upgraded headers and exhaust? what diameter is the exhaust pipe? cause if you still have the stock ones, then you might actually be hindering the performance and not using the charger to its full potential.

Dont verone got a blitz unit on the Longo bus?.. whats he say about it???

All that money for far less hp than you can get from a 35 shot of nitrous :lol: :lol: . That's just sad.....very sad :lol: :lol: :lol: . I'll keep juicing until the EL kit or the Rev Hard kit comes out :D .

Wow! After three posts you got the Blitz SC, sheesh! That's too bad, I hope you don't feel too robbed. Not too many regular drivers - let alone crazy mod heads can drop that much just for the experience of it, you are truly barve...and rich and you drive the xA (I didn't know it was available for the xA too...!)

We've seen pix of it in the xB ---- Any pictures?

So, is it loud? Are you on an auto or manny tranny? How much did you spend on your experiment (install,etc...?) Do you really think it sux that bad and were there any numbers from Blitz before you did the install that you can all them on because the mis-represented the item? Blitz usually has a good rep, no?

Let's hope more competition brings lower prices to our niche. I really like the idea of the Blitz SC, I guess I still do :sad:

Hey Drew! Were your experiences similar on the xB with SC? It sounded like you were more satisfied with it... :oops:

total money spent so far $0. it wasn't my car. (and i'm glad it wasn't)

the exaust is stock, only a blitz nur axle back. it would definetly make more power with a bigger pipe, and no cat. but originally the kit is designed to work well with a completely stock car.

the car is a 5 spd. and the blower isn't that loud. you can hear it working, but it's not like all you hear is an annoying whine.

i believe blitz claims 20-30 hp. which isnt too bad considering my results. like i said, the car still had the stock plugs and 87 octane. in the instruction manual, blitz recommends going with colder iridium plugs and 91 octane. while these two may not make a huge difference in power, it would go a long way to make the operation safer.

don't get me wrong, i have blitz products on my car, i like blitz, and will continue to buy blitz. just not the supercharger. well, maybe. the owner of the car may go with the plugs, a new exhaust, header, and a SAFCII. this will definetly help. after this, if the car makes the power it should, it may be worthwhile. but for now, i still think that it is a lot of money for too little hp.

oh yeah, one other thing to note. the boost pressure of the kit is 4.5 psi, and around 5500rpm, the pressure drops to around 2-3 psi. (small blower)

Did you do the install yourself? Was it difficult? Does the drop in PSI mean the SC actually robs power making it necessary to aperate it at lesst 25% on the dial? Interesting, it sounds like it would be a great kit if the kinks got worked out even if the boost is not as substantial.

So, can any help to the ride be felt?
Not head snapping back power but any kind of gain in pick-up?
Ummm, what did you mean by safer operation with changing plugs and higher octane, is it really unsafe to run 87 with lower grade plugs?

Was there a big fat warning that it was not CARB approved..? :D

Thanks for the info, man!

Al.Truistic
aB

total money spent so far $0. it wasn't my car. (and i'm glad it wasn't)

the exaust is stock, only a blitz nur axle back. it would definetly make more power with a bigger pipe, and no cat. but originally the kit is designed to work well with a completely stock car.

the car is a 5 spd. and the blower isn't that loud. you can hear it working, but it's not like all you hear is an annoying whine.

i believe blitz claims 20-30 hp. which isnt too bad considering my results. like i said, the car still had the stock plugs and 87 octane. in the instruction manual, blitz recommends going with colder iridium plugs and 91 octane. while these two may not make a huge difference in power, it would go a long way to make the operation safer.

don't get me wrong, i have blitz products on my car, i like blitz, and will continue to buy blitz. just not the supercharger. well, maybe. the owner of the car may go with the plugs, a new exhaust, header, and a SAFCII. this will definetly help. after this, if the car makes the power it should, it may be worthwhile. but for now, i still think that it is a lot of money for too little hp.

oh yeah, one other thing to note. the boost pressure of the kit is 4.5 psi, and around 5500rpm, the pressure drops to around 2-3 psi. (small blower)

yep, did the install my self. (mechanic by trade, simple for me, may not be for beginners)
the boost drop does flatten out the power curve a little, but not too much.

running the car on 87 and with stock plugs may cause detonation under heavy load. ie, ac on, hot weather, up hill, big loads. on the dyno, it didn't ping, but that's minimal load, and with a huge fan on the radiator, and intake.

i didn't drive the car on the street, so i can't say how it feels like, (damn).

Sounds disappointing. Why did you use 87 octane though? Maybe the engine started pining, and the ECU is falling back to the "Tiajuana sh*t gas" program. If I were you I would run through 2 tanks of premium gas and try again.

Also, what dyno are you using? Any dyno charts?

jeeeez....

my car dynoed at 103.6 with just an intake... :shock:

now with my headers and with my soon to be installe exhaust, i should be at least 115 to the wheels i would figure

something must be really funky with that setup, i hope they work it out since blitz usually makes top notch stuff!!

- Brian

any pics of the set up?

Wow that hella sucks... Blitz was my number 1 choice. Now its up to Revhard, E.l. Prototypes, Stafford, and scioned.com. I'm choosing the one with the most power, I don't care about drivability.

unless i can get at least an 150WHP, it's not worthed

$4000, thats merely 1/3 the price of the car for a slight boost in performance


i'll keep mine as a cruise, just IMO!

yeah, the car might come back with 91, but it had a full tank of 87. we didn't want to drain it and refill it. ( quarter tank maybe, but not a full. )

87 sucks. pulling timing can account for some lost power, but even with 91, and the timing where it should be, the car will probably still not make more than 110.

sorry no pics. but it looks exactly the same as the Xb.

the dyno was a dynojet . not sure of the model.

how many miles on engine? should the ecu have time to accomodate the upgrades b/f maximum power is established? gas, plugs, wires,header,exhaust all play a roll in power too. it sounds like this kit is incomplete. with the addition of better/more fuel plugs, etc. the numbers should pick up. i beat the gas and ecu contributed to the low h.p. readings along with exhaust restrictions BUT those boost numbers are quite low can you explain why these numbers are so low?

Wow, I don't know how I missed this thread. Probably because I didn't jump on the computer after I left work last night.

We have the Blitz S/C on our project xB here at the dealership and I love it. We haven't dyno'd it yet so I have no idea what kind of numbers it's putting out but you feel a noticable gain. My xB with only an SPFR intake couldn't even come close to keeping up.

It's not a WRX, the thing by no means is a speed monster, but it makes a big difference over stock.

The only 3 downsides IMO (I can't make any claim on HP increase because we haven't dynod. All I can say is it is fun to drive) are that it's not smog legal, you have to run high octane, and that the ECU is a pain in the ___. Every now and then the idot lights come on and you have to reset the computer (pull a fuse and wait like 5 minutes). That just comes with the territory with Toyotas I guess, not as easy as a Honda.

Is it worth $3500? You guys have to decide that. Would I put it on my own xB? Nope. I am more than happy with the performance I get from my SPFR. I'm planning on a new exhaust but that's as far as I'll go. There are other things I'd rather spend my $$ on.

Is it a quality unit? Yes...installs super-clean. Runs well, the clutch is awesome. I just wish I had some dyno numbers.

Hope that helps.

Drew

Every now and then the idot lights come on and you have to reset the computer

that idiot light is you check engine light, and lets you know if something is wrong with your engine. it could have detected a lean or rich condition, or just let you know the vsv connector is unplugged.

the code may be for something simple, or it may not. simply resetting it does not fix the problem. you should check the code first, and try and fix it before you just reset it.

15 hp is a noticeable gain. you will definetly feel it. it should also be noted that the 15 hp is at the peak. (~6000) . however, the car makes a lot more torque and low range hp than before. if i can recall correctly, the largest hp gain at any one rpm point was around 20-25 in the midrange.

That just comes with the territory with Toyotas I guess, not as easy as a Honda.


just curious what you meant?

I don't have any experience tuning Hondas, but I'm told their ECU's are a piece of cake, and basically just plug and play. The gents over at Blitz said that the Toyota ECU's are a beeyotch to reprogram and that from time to time the idiot lights will come on (it's not just the check engine light, it's also the VSC, TRAC, and ABS light). There's nothing wrong with the engine...the car runs just fine and as soon as you pull the fuse for 5 minutes and it resets, they go off. It has only happened once.

That's just what my experience has been and what Blitz has told me. They know a lot more about reprogramming ECU's then I ever will....I'm a retard in general, but especially when it comes to computers and electronics.

vsc, trac, abs all have their own ecu. if the abs light comes on, you have a problem with your abs.

( not a problem with vsc, or trac with the XA, not available)

toyota ecu's do tend to be a little more complex. but when it comes to piggybacks like the afc, or the blitz unit, they all work as they should.

There must be a central computer they all feed into that is acting up then. All the lights came on at the exact same time....Chk engine, ABS, VSC and TRAC. Reset the computer and voila! no more lights.

Mike from Blitz told us this happens on occasion and not to worry.

Hey Drew, what's up! Thanks for your 2 centavos, it's good to hear that driving the SC is at least a great experience.

Sad to hear all this stuff tho...the 15 HP gains don't sound terrible unless you were paying out the a$$ for those 15 ponies...

Oh and blowing your engine...not cool.

I liked the idea of a SC because I just wanted the low end power, that would be nice. The turbo sounds great and the progress that some are making seem just the ticket if you are a young rocket pilot. Definitely more cost effective with the HP per dollar crowd, too!

Still, I hope these early obstacles are just things that need tweaking...
I love my Blitz shortram.. :wink:

Al.Truistic
aB

There must be a central computer they all feed into that is acting up then. All the lights came on at the exact same time....Chk engine, ABS, VSC and TRAC. Reset the computer and voila! no more lights.

Mike from Blitz told us this happens on occasion and not to worry.

[b]HKS has an ausome piggy back system u should try that and also try boosting more around 6 pounds

15 hp on a 90hp car is over 17% increase. in power. AND i can't believe you used 87 octane with forced induction. that's crazy. and i also can't believe you didn't switch to colder plugs before you did the install. you can't complain abouto not getting enough power when you don't get the engine a chance. but even 15 hp on an 85 hp car is a vast improvement.

you let's say you had a car putting out 170hp at the wheels, like a mustang GT. and you added a supercharger and got 30 more hp, would you be happy? it's the same percentage as your cars improvment. superchargers are not as effective as turbochargers, as everyone knows, and turbos give maybe 40% increase at best, and that is with an engine designed for forced induction. our engines have a 10.5:1 compression ratio and aren't designed to have more air forced to the engine. i guess a few pounds of boost is ok, but if you're comparing this car to a supra or something with a much stronger block that can handle 25-30psi, of course 15hp is going to look weak. but everything on the scions operates on a smaller scale. the cars are lighter, the engines are smaller, and small changes make a big difference.

for example, my car has the SPFR intake. stock headers and exhaust (for now). well everyone knows that that intake only makes 1.42hp at the wheels. but my little scion is way faster than stock. i can prove it to you guys, even with air suspension which adds unspring weight (makes a big difference). so if 1.42hp makes that big of a difference, i can't imagine what 15hp would do!!

I've said it time and time again, I am more than happy with only my SPFR intake. I'm not even contemplating any forced induction what so ever for my own car.

If you've got the money though, the Blitz kit is a blast to drive. I'm defintely glad we have it on our project car, and it makes big difference. Heck, it may only be putting 10 to the wheels, it may be putting 30 to the wheels (we really really really need to dyno it), but whatever it is it does make a difference.

As for the idiot lights...I finally figured out what the issue with those is. It's not an ECU-reset problem like I thought (although Mike from blitz did tell us that they might come on from time to time and resetting the ECU clears that problem up). Someone was fiddling with our gauges and pulled the vaccuum hose off the boost gauge so there was a small vaccuum leak, thus causing all the lights to pop up. I'm suprised the jerky driving the car didn't hear the hiss (was blasting the stereo most likely). I think we need to do a better job of limiting who at the dealership drives the car, but that's another issue altogether.

The Blitz s/c is a quality product, it make an gigantic difference in the drivability of the car, and I feel is worth what we paid for it. I just don't have the money or interest to put it on my own car.

if u really have the cash and the time do this:

to get more power from you blitz charger you have to do the following:
1. Check if the whole kit is installed and setupd correctly (you can check it at the dealer or at porchse).
2. have Octane 91 (as mentioned)
3. change your exhaust system (try blitz or 5zigen)
4. Double the gasket so u get lower compression on the pistons or change the pistons (like having JUN pistons)(lower compression is very important to your engine don't high compression or your scion will throw the oil from the exhaust lol)
5. the most important is to change the chrager pulley with a one has a smaller diameter (that will give you more rotation)

:D :D :D :D :D :D

if u really have the cash and the time do this:

to get more power from you blitz charger you have to do the following:
1. Check if the whole kit is installed and setupd correctly (you can check it at the dealer or at porchse).
2. have Octane 91 (as mentioned)
3. change your exhaust system (try blitz or 5zigen)
4. Double the gasket so u get lower compression on the pistons or change the pistons (like having JUN pistons)(lower compression is very important to your engine don't high compression or your scion will throw the oil from the exhaust lol)
5. the most important is to change the chrager pulley with a one has a smaller diameter (that will give you more rotation)

:D :D :D :D :D :D

Don't forget new spark plugs too!

and turbos give maybe 40% increase at best

People NEVER refer to percentages of increase now. If a turbo on a Honda H22A motor can produce 750whp, that's at least a 450% increase. You can turbo the 1.5 to probably 400hp, but with that, expect a built motor to be needed.

Not meant to ____ you off, just turbo talk. :)

Andrew

Import Tuner "tested" the Blitz SC in the May 2004 issue. (I say "tested" because there are no real details of the install or test and the photos all have that brochure-like look about them.) Their published results show +23.3 whp and +20.2 lb-ft torque @ 5700 rpm.

At $151/hp it's a bit expensive but that kind of money has been spent on sillier things ...

lower compression pistons will Decrease the power. using lower compression pistons on a FI car that was originally NA, is done to reduce the chances of knocking.

lower compression pistons by themselves do, in no way, increase the power.

Import Tuner "tested" the Blitz SC in the May 2004 issue. (I say "tested" because there are no real details of the install or test and the photos all have that brochure-like look about them.) Their published results show +23.3 whp and +20.2 lb-ft torque @ 5700 rpm.

At $151/hp it's a bit expensive but that kind of money has been spent on sillier things ...

At $151/hp, a $600 nitrous kit would give you 4hp.

Andrew

Actually, at $150 you could make your own nitrous kit. I've done that a few times already using an old fire extinguisher for the bottle and buying the other pieces from the UK at a very cheap price.

And unfortunately, I see the Greddy kit being th same as this. The system is designed for very low power gains out of the box but the Greddy unit will be more affordable than Blitz. Once you start doing the correct mods to the car which were not done in this test, you will undoubtibly see better numbers but still spending more.

If other turbo kits out right now are running over the 8 psi range and getting over 145whp, then once you do the right mods needed for the basic kit...you can easily upgrade the pulley to support 145whp also with very low cost since we know the car can already handle that load (i.e. turbo kits already being tested).

Actually, at $150 you could make your own nitrous kit. I've done that a few times already using an old fire extinguisher for the bottle and buying the other pieces from the UK at a very cheap price..

Indeed you could, I was just pointing out if you were to spend $600 on a nitrous kit, you would only get 4hp at that dollar-per-horsepower ratio. :)

Andrew

Well, there's always the cost of the nitrous. Unless your dad's a dentist or you work in a whipped-cream factory :wink:

I don't know what most of you were expecting anyway.

The car makes little to no power to start with. A blower is going to add a bit more power and more torque because its being directly driven by the engine.

Anybody that considering themselves a "tuner" would have put the colder plugs and 91 octane fuel in BEFORE the install. But you didn't because you prolly cringed at 2.50 prices for 91 octane unlead...

Do it right or don't do it at all. I get tired of seeing half-assed installations of products only for the owner/installer to blame the product for its performance.

On top of the fuel and plug issue, I question your attention to detail. I check for port flash and things of that sort on ANYTHING that's casted up like an intake manifold. Spending a little time making sure things match up 100% might pick up more power than expected or at least match quoted output.

You also said the supercharger was tested with a bone stock car, so return your car back to BONE stock, but the blower and dyno it again. Your axle back exhaust is creating a lost in boost because the muffler is freer flowing and you have less pumping losses which make a blow or turbo kit loose boost.

If I opened up the exhaust on any forced inducted car, I would INCREASE the boost as well to make up the lost in pressure created by freer-flowing intake and exhaust systems.

I'll buy the system off you, too bad I bought Focus and not a Scion, but I know somebody that just bought one and since its automatic she could use the extra torque the blower puts out.

Not all dynos are equal. Here's a nice read from C/D about Dynos and modern car technologies. Our cars may not be that technologically advance, but we do have VVT-i :lol:

http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=4&article_id=8020

1 word....TURBO

You also said the supercharger was tested with a bone stock car, so return your car back to BONE stock, but the blower and dyno it again. Your axle back exhaust is creating a lost in boost because the muffler is freer flowing and you have less pumping losses which make a blow or turbo kit loose boost.

If I opened up the exhaust on any forced inducted car, I would INCREASE the boost as well to make up the lost in pressure created by freer-flowing intake and exhaust systems.

you are an idiot. read your post again, and tell me how much sense that makes. a larger exhaust system will NOT decrease boost. this roots type supercharger runs off of a pulley. so even if there was no exhaust after the header, the boost level will be EXACTLY THE SAME! it is mechanically regulated. unlike a turbocharger, which is wategate regulated ( but that's a whole other discussion) opening up the exhaust does not " lose pressure" (as you so stated) that is just complete nonsense.

educate yourself first, then speak.

as for the car, it isn't mine. it was delivered with a full tank of 87, and the owner didn't want to spend the $ on plugs. that is his decision not mine.

once again, educate yourself first, then speak.



"the internet.... the greatest source of mis-information."

You also said the supercharger was tested with a bone stock car, so return your car back to BONE stock, but the blower and dyno it again. Your axle back exhaust is creating a lost in boost because the muffler is freer flowing and you have less pumping losses which make a blow or turbo kit loose boost.

If I opened up the exhaust on any forced inducted car, I would INCREASE the boost as well to make up the lost in pressure created by freer-flowing intake and exhaust systems.

you are an idiot. read your post again, and tell me how much sense that makes. a larger exhaust system will NOT decrease boost. this roots type supercharger runs off of a pulley. so even if there was no exhaust after the header, the boost level will be EXACTLY THE SAME! it is mechanically regulated. unlike a turbocharger, which is wategate regulated ( but that's a whole other discussion) opening up the exhaust does not " lose pressure" (as you so stated) that is just complete nonsense.

educate yourself first, then speak.

as for the car, it isn't mine. it was delivered with a full tank of 87, and the owner didn't want to spend the $ on plugs. that is his decision not mine.

once again, educate yourself first, then speak.



"the internet.... the greatest source of mis-information."

even though he had some discrepancies in what he said he had a point... you guys didn't follow the manufacturers recomendation to change to colder plugs and higher octane... If this is how the product was designed to be run how are you going to say its a ____ kit when the kit never had a chance to live up to its full potential?-- Not pointing fingers or tryin to give you guff- just my .02

"amatures don't use NOS"


"i've seen the way you drive, you got a heavy foot"

you are an idiot. read your post again, and tell me how much sense that makes. a larger exhaust system will NOT decrease boost. this roots type supercharger runs off of a pulley. so even if there was no exhaust after the header, the boost level will be EXACTLY THE SAME! it is mechanically regulated. unlike a turbocharger, which is wategate regulated ( but that's a whole other discussion) opening up the exhaust does not " lose pressure" (as you so stated) that is just complete nonsense.

educate yourself first, then speak.


LOL. Maybe you need to educate yourself. The s/c will only put out so much boost based on pulley size and engine backpressure. Even then the pulley size will limit it even with the most free flowing exhaust. Putting a free flowing exhaust on there will drop backpressure therefore allowing the compressed air to move more smotthly and faster through the engine therefore reducing boost pressure. Albeit nprobably not enough to see it. The same happens when you add headers, more agressive cam, larger exhaust valves. Typically if you leave your exhaust stock and not run colder plugs and not use 91 octane then you could get KR which will reduce engine efficiency. Which seems to be the case here. Just opening up the exhaust could've lowered boost enough to prevent that. Highly doubt it though. Granted once you do those three things you could run a smaller pulley for more boost or even to bring i back up to were it was before freeing up the exhaust train.

I know this from modifying my 98 GTP I just sold.

do your own dyno testing and come back with your results.

no more bench racing.

do your own dyno testing and come back with your results.

no more bench racing. :?: Um...what's this in response to?

I think it is interesting that on cars (esecially 4 cylinders) that the marketing people put things like VVT and DOHC. Variable Valve Timing has been around for about 50 years or so. It is nothing new or special and most cars have it and don't even advertise. My 87 Alfa Romeo has VVT and it is nothing special. It is like the Saturn's with the Daul Overhead Cam which has been around since the 40's. But the Marketers know that the consumer probably doesn't know this stuff and figure that having it on the car means "wow DOHC, it must be cool." Watch in a couple years it will be something new that really isn't new. Well that is my ppeice, I know noone cares. I just thought it was funny when I found out about that stuff.

One more thing. I always see people post things about using NOS instead of this or that. NOS on a stock engine is such a bad idea if you plan on keeping the car. Mileage is used to estimate the wear and tear on the engine. When NOS is used on a stock motor the wear is multiplied many times over. So in essence it isn't cheaper by anymeans unless you throw away the car when it needs new rings, valves etc.

I dunno if I'd go as far to say its not worth the money just because it only yeilded a little power with a very lean condition. Thats like saying ray lewis sucks because he had a injured leg or soemthing and could not play as well. Given a good A/F Im sure it would do a lot better, higher boost would be good too. Torque measurement is what counts and a 25lbft increase is pretty good, all things considered.

dang, u guys keep focusing on plugs and gas. he has said many times that the car came in with 87 and the dude didnt want to pay for plugs. Leave that part out of your posts already its getting old.

dang, u guys keep focusing on plugs and gas. he has said many times that the car came in with 87 and the dude didnt want to pay for plugs. Leave that part out of your posts already its getting old.

The fact of the matter is, the manufacturers recommendations were not followed. I would never do that... the liability is too great. If the guys motor cooks, and its because of the low octane gas and wrong heat range plugs, and he blames YOU for it then I would wager its YOUR fault. I would have ATLEAST spiked the fuel that was in the tank with a couple gallons of 110 or something.

This is kind of like my friend, who has a Saab 9-3 SE... I got him a manual boost controller and installed it. I showed him how to adjust it as well... He pushes it all the way up to fuel cut, which is fine on those... BUT he keeps running that damn 87 octane lawn-mower fuel in it. I heard knocking @ idle and told him to stop doing that... I made him run the rest of the tank out on low boost and then I refilled it after driving well over the gas light's plea for help... with 94 ocatane.... I drove it for a bit, to make sure all the other gas was pretty much gone...then I reset the ECU and the car runs like a monster now...

Also, my xB knocks periodically with 87 STOCK, I can't imagine running it with boost!!!!!

i'm a noob on this :cry: what does it mean when it knocks?
give me a break, i'm trying to learn. :roll:

The fact of the matter is, the manufacturers recommendations were not followed. I would never do that... the liability is too great. If the guys motor cooks, and its because of the low octane gas and wrong heat range plugs, and he blames YOU for it then I would wager its YOUR fault. I would have ATLEAST spiked the fuel that was in the tank with a couple gallons of 110 or something.

This is kind of like my friend, who has a Saab 9-3 SE... I got him a manual boost controller and installed it. I showed him how to adjust it as well... He pushes it all the way up to fuel cut, which is fine on those... BUT he keeps running that damn 87 octane lawn-mower fuel in it. I heard knocking @ idle and told him to stop doing that... I made him run the rest of the tank out on low boost and then I refilled it after driving well over the gas light's plea for help... with 94 ocatane.... I drove it for a bit, to make sure all the other gas was pretty much gone...then I reset the ECU and the car runs like a monster now...


it is a "recommendation" not a "requirement" .

knocking at idle!!... hmmmm... yeah...sure. if the car was knocking at idle, the engine wouldn't last 10 minutes under any sort of load.

you also must be using some ____ gas if your xb is knocking. ac on, full throttle, 4 passengers, going up hill?

The fact of the matter is, the manufacturers recommendations were not followed. I would never do that... the liability is too great. If the guys motor cooks, and its because of the low octane gas and wrong heat range plugs, and he blames YOU for it then I would wager its YOUR fault. I would have ATLEAST spiked the fuel that was in the tank with a couple gallons of 110 or something.

This is kind of like my friend, who has a Saab 9-3 SE... I got him a manual boost controller and installed it. I showed him how to adjust it as well... He pushes it all the way up to fuel cut, which is fine on those... BUT he keeps running that damn 87 octane lawn-mower fuel in it. I heard knocking @ idle and told him to stop doing that... I made him run the rest of the tank out on low boost and then I refilled it after driving well over the gas light's plea for help... with 94 ocatane.... I drove it for a bit, to make sure all the other gas was pretty much gone...then I reset the ECU and the car runs like a monster now...


it is a "recommendation" not a "requirement" .

knocking at idle!!... hmmmm... yeah...sure. if the car was knocking at idle, the engine wouldn't last 10 minutes under any sort of load.

you also must be using some ____ gas if your xb is knocking. ac on, full throttle, 4 passengers, going up hill?

He didn't say his xb was knocking and adding 6lbs on 87 into this motor would be bad.

If you want the same resaults or even close you would folow the recomendations, not doing so THEN going and posting that its not worth the money where people who would see it and wouldn't understand that its the tuner/owners fault it does not make enough power is ignorence.

Also, my xB knocks periodically

what did you say? ... yep

ok, you can go ahead and install the supercharger with 91 octane, and good plugs. go for it. you will see that the car will only make about 3 more hp.

i specifically stated that the car didn't have these 2 things, and those were the numbers it did. take for what it's worth.

jeez, why does everyone have such a freakin problem with this.




...stop trying to be right all the time...

The fact of the matter is, the manufacturers recommendations were not followed. I would never do that... the liability is too great. If the guys motor cooks, and its because of the low octane gas and wrong heat range plugs, and he blames YOU for it then I would wager its YOUR fault. I would have ATLEAST spiked the fuel that was in the tank with a couple gallons of 110 or something.

This is kind of like my friend, who has a Saab 9-3 SE... I got him a manual boost controller and installed it. I showed him how to adjust it as well... He pushes it all the way up to fuel cut, which is fine on those... BUT he keeps running that damn 87 octane lawn-mower fuel in it. I heard knocking @ idle and told him to stop doing that... I made him run the rest of the tank out on low boost and then I refilled it after driving well over the gas light's plea for help... with 94 ocatane.... I drove it for a bit, to make sure all the other gas was pretty much gone...then I reset the ECU and the car runs like a monster now...


it is a "recommendation" not a "requirement" .

knocking at idle!!... hmmmm... yeah...sure. if the car was knocking at idle, the engine wouldn't last 10 minutes under any sort of load.

you also must be using some ____ gas if your xb is knocking. ac on, full throttle, 4 passengers, going up hill?


I bet you anything from idle when you hammer on your car it will ping/knock a tiny bit. If you read the manual, it says it's normal. BUT, that doesn't mean it's optimal.

This is using ANY 87 octane fuel availible locally... Mobil, Citgo, Hess, Shell...

Also, my xB knocks periodically

what did you say? ... yep

ok, you can go ahead and install the supercharger with 91 octane, and good plugs. go for it. you will see that the car will only make about 3 more hp.

i specifically stated that the car didn't have these 2 things, and those were the numbers it did. take for what it's worth.

jeez, why does everyone have such a freakin problem with this.




...stop trying to be right all the time...

It's not that anyone has a problem with it, it's just that it was said that kit was not worth the money because of the said gains. But, the said gains were on less than optimal fuel and plugs. Whether it's really going to make a difference thats noticable, I don't know... but from the tests done elsewhere, it looks as if you're missing around 8hp...

Believe me, I'll agree even from the better of the numbers that the S/C isn't worth the cash...

How about post the dyno sheet here.
Import Tuner did a test with the Blitz on an XB & their peak hp was 112.6 & 113.6 lb-ft tq at 5700 they saw a gain of 23.3hp & 20.0 lb-ft The peak hp was only so so but raising midrange power is good for the streets.

Instead of calling him an idiot and pointing out "what he did wrong" because you're all in denial that you're beloved Blitz kit didn't work very well, maybe we could be productive and figure out WHY it's not making as much as it should.

first off: octane does NOT make power Octane reduced the chance of detonation, or ping. If the engine wasn't pinging with 87octane, then 87 is fine in the engines current state, but that would leave me to believe that it might be running rich if it wasn't pinging with 87octane, which would impair the engines ability to make the predicted power.

Another thing, which was mentioned a little, was that modern cars like to be in control ALOT more than older cars. When the WRX came out, people were having a hell of a time flashing the ROMs, the Subaru would some how go back to it's factory tune level. This could be the car protesting the blower.

One thing I'd do (you may have already done this) is double and triple check the elctrical connections on the Blitz piggy-back. Hell, maybe even try removing the piggy-back and seeing what happens. Maybe a boost leak also, but doubtfull, it'd be louder, and you ARE a mechanic, so I don't think something as simple as that would be the problem.

About that piggy-back, seeing as this is actually for the Ist/bB, not the US spec xA/xB, you may have some contradictions between the computers. Japan has a slightly higher octane rating (no, not 97-100 like everyone thinks, they use a different scale, it's somewhere around 95) and that would allow Blitz to advance timing a little bit. The xA/xB however, might not like this because of many things. The US Spec engines MAY (I don't know for sure) have knock sensors, which would pull timing back at the sign of ping, or it could be due to OBD-II and it's nazi-like controls.

The plug argument has less base than everyone says, yes, Blitz says it's good to get colder plugs, but everyone remembers who sells plugs? That's right, BLITZ sells plugs. Since this was a low rated power increase, if the stock plugs are in good condition (which being a newer car, they'll be fine) then the plugs won't matter. Checking to see if they were gapped to factory specs might have been a good check, but not necessary. Plugs are only needed if the car is missing, because turbulence from high-boost inside of a combustion chamber can cause the plug to blow-out.

Hopefully you're still able to do some checks on the car, it's probably been delivered, though.

--Justin

No Blitz love here, but if you add boost to any motor and you don't use decent gas and colder plugs... You honestly think that it doesn't make a difference? Who cares what this customer wanted, you're spec'ing a product under misuse. Edit your dyno info, delete it all together. It is useless information.

Hey guys look at me i'm a mechanic and I can install things improperly because the customer asked me too, and here is the outcome! Look this product is crap! it must be because the product is bad! Don't buy it!

I'll trust the dyno results of the people that do it right and have done more than one install of a supercharger in their entire life.

bring on the tuners

yeah the supercharger isnt worth the money, my import tuner magazine had a little article bout the blitz sc and it didnt make that much of a difference. I mean youll feel the difference but I wouldnt pay $3000 for it, maybe if it got to 160 hp then yeah.

first off: octane does NOT make power Octane reduced the chance of detonation, or ping. If the engine wasn't pinging with 87octane, then 87 is fine in the engines current state, but that would leave me to believe that it might be running rich if it wasn't pinging with 87octane, which would impair the engines ability to make the predicted power.

--Justin
this is correct octane doen't make horsepower ,however timing does and the knock sensors on the toyota is very sensitive and will pull timing at the drop of a hat if thats whats happing the power will fall off fast.

Welcome to the world of overpriced, underperforming crap that is Blitz. Normally I say you get what you pay for. That rule might apply to things like the quality of hookers and first class versus coach, but when it comes to Blitz it is just the opposite. All your paying for is the prestigious "JDM" name. What a crock. Blitz is right below APC in my book.

Import Tuner mag (yeah... it's for ricers...) reviewed the kit and had a exact same as you.

It is the dyno tested hp. and 20~25% of current power sounds right for the claim Blitz have been making...

I hear you though... $3500 sounds like it will get you more juice....

So, you can't feel the increase of power/torque when you drive?

xero, have you installed this kit...

i didn't think so.

today i was talking with the editor of turbo magazine who drives a supercharged xb, and they got the exact, i repeat, EXACT same results as the xa. they had the same intake and exhaust too.

oh yeah, the xb had the recommended colder plugs from blitz, and was running 91 octane.

granted they are two seperate cars and engines, and all engines will perform differently.

point being, that you will not see a huge improvement in performance with the colder plugs and 91 octane. i also recommend these two things , and if it was my car, i would definetly changed them.

i've said it before and i will say it again. it wasn't my car, i don't deal with the customers. i recommend it, but if they don't wanna do it, oh well. stop giving me crap.

i gave an honest impartial review of the blitz supercharger, and i stated the test conditions under which the dyno test was performed.

you are more than welcome to go out, buy the car, the supercharger, and pay for the dyno time and do this testing yourself. chances are you will get similar results.

i have a feeling that some people are flaming because the kit doesn't seem as promising as it once seemed.

On flywheel, Xb's hp is claimed to be 107hp. And blitz claims that their super charger will bring it up to 150hp.

On dyno (wheels), Xb's average seems like it generates about 87hp. And if the Blitz kit brings it up to 107hp, that is about 25% of the power increase. And it seems like that's about the average number people have been getting...

Doesn't that sound about right?

I know it's an expansive kit...

On flywheel, Xb's hp is claimed to be 107hp. And blitz claims that their super charger will bring it up to 150hp.

On dyno (wheels), Xb's average seems like it generates about 87hp. And if the Blitz kit brings it up to 107hp, that is about 25% of the power increase. And it seems like that's about the average number people have been getting...

Doesn't that sound about right?

I know it's an expansive kit...

20hp is not worth 3k. Plain and simple.

The best thing you can do with the $3k that you might have spent on a Blitz supercharger, is trade your Gen 1 Xb for a Gen 2 Xb, or anything else. Let's face the fact that the Gen 1 Xb was and is one of the slowest cars in production. As such, the first $3k spent for any Gen 1 Xb owner (myself included) should be to drive something less humiliating. The car is embarrassing to be seen in.. and no matter how much $$ you put into the car.. it's still embarrassing. In fact, after a point, when it looks like you're trying too hard, it gets especially embarrassing because it looks like you're trying to impress people with the cheapest/slowest/most humiliating car ever made.. buy something else.

20hp is not worth 3k. Plain and simple.

TRUE but this kit on my car = FUN....

you woulda been better off buying a Greddy turbo kit then a supercharger srry to say...you should def check out Ptuning.com. their main mechanic actually is the owner of the fastest xA ever w/ way over 300whp. hes actually worked on my 05 xA alot personally

The best thing you can do with the $3k that you might have spent on a Blitz supercharger, is trade your Gen 1 Xb for a Gen 2 Xb, or anything else. Let's face the fact that the Gen 1 Xb was and is one of the slowest cars in production. As such, the first $3k spent for any Gen 1 Xb owner (myself included) should be to drive something less humiliating. The car is embarrassing to be seen in.. and no matter how much $$ you put into the car.. it's still embarrassing. In fact, after a point, when it looks like you're trying too hard, it gets especially embarrassing because it looks like you're trying to impress people with the cheapest/slowest/most humiliating car ever made.. buy something else.

Actually, it would be more embarrassing to own a vette and get smoked by a xb1. Heck my xA traps faster than a GTR. It can be done, people just approach it the wrong way. I used to have the blitz kit years ago, and I was able to get it to punch out some power ( main problem is the factory 4pk belt
width). Many people don't realize they aren't hitting full boost with the kit because they are running the provided bando belt or another cheap belt. But yea, I eventually scrapped the blitz because it just isn't suited for the 1nz drive belt design.

If you are superficial about cars ( as it seems you are), then building a vehicle with blood and sweat isn't for you. Go to the dealership like the rest of the population and throw your down payment at the sales guy and pick up a car. Like I say, there is a lot more enjoyment out of building a car instead of buying one. Not that I'm into street racing anymore, but if I were.... I'd have a lot of loot. And you would be betting on the wrong car.

You see a car for what it is in the brochure.... I see it for what it can be.

I also had a bad experience with the Blitz. Although i got mine for $650 bucks. Thats why i bought it. What ive learned....the hard way.....But a car that CAN make gobs of HP. And keep the scion for MPG.