Here's the breakdown...

[table:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Crank Pulley[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]Alternator Pulley[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]Water Pulley[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]OEM ~55oz[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]OEM 9.6 oz[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]OEM 13.4 oz[mrow color=red:ba5e3ba19b]NST UNDERDRIVE 20oz[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]NST OVERDRIVE 3oz[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]NST LIGHTWEIGHT 6.3oz[/table:ba5e3ba19b]

The crank is a little heavier than others out there. But, given the fact that the water pump is also lighter than the OEM as well as the Alternator, which I anticipate to be lighter as well... It gives this set a good advantage.

But it's ALSO UNDERDRIVE, so it gives more power to the wheels, than to other components, such as the a/c.

Now to the Install!!!!

Disclaimer - This install guide is only based on my experience and for your basic information on how to perform this installation yourself. Please take every safety precaution neccesary. I will not be held liabel for any damages this can cause to your engine if done improperly, or if following these directions, as I am only a tuner like yourself. Please perform at your own risk.

-With that out of the way-


[table:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Tools Needed[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]Good Air Gun Setup
New Belt - Number K060747
Open Ended Wrench 12mm
Socket Set with 10mm/19mm/14mm/22mm/12mm
Flathead ScrewDriver
Good Socket Breaker Bar
Pulley Removal Tool (Less That 20 bucks at harbor freight)
Nice Bright Lights (To See)
Good Torque wrench (Up to 110 ft/lbs)
Strap Wrench (To hold pulleys in place)
[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 1 -

Jack up the right side of the car and place it on a jack stand for stability[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 2 -

Remove Tire and look for plastic side panel....

-Remove two 10mm screws and one pop holder on the outside
-Remove two pop holders (One underneath and one up on the backside of the piece)
[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 3 -

Picture of the piece removed
to the right of the picture, you'll see the two pop-holders that are a little harder to get (You can also see them in the last picture of the install[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 4 -

Look at crank pulley and line up the notch on the pulley with something you can note...

I lined it up with a side of the bolt next to it (comes in handy later)
[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/4.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 5 -

Use a 19MM socket and air gun to remove the bolt holding the crank pulley on

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/5.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 6 -

Look at crank pulley and stair bewildered at how hard the stupid bolt was to take off.

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/6.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 7 -

Locate the tensioner bolt and use the breaker bar to pull the tensioner assembly toward the front of the car, while pulling off the belt from the crank pulley down below

(Two People Are A Must For This)

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/7.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 8 -

Leave the Crank Pulley Alone for now and disconnect the positive lead to the battery using a 10 MM socket
[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/8.JPG[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 9 -

Note the small cap on the bolt which needs to be removed to remove the wire (10MM)

Also remove the plug connection by squeezing it and pulling up.
[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/9.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 10 -

Look at this pic of all the connections removed, also release the white clip on the front of the alternator

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/10.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 11 -

Remove the Alternator by first removing the 14mm bolt on the top rear, and then the 12mm bolt hidden under the pulley
[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/11.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 12 -

Look at this pic of the wire assemble nut, the 14mm rear bolt and the 12mm front bolt.

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/12.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 13 -

WIGGLE WIGGLE WIGGLE the alternator out of it's holder.

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/13.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 14 -

Here's a pic of the Alternator with the stock pulley

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/14.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 15 -

To Ease the removal of the pulley bolt, we wrapped the pulley with a rag and used a 22mm socket and air gun to remove the nut.

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 16 -

Place the new alternator pully on and torque it down!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/16.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 17 -

Stare amazed at the size difference and how light it is compared to stock

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/17.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 18 -

Locate the water pump pulley and remove the 4 12 mm bolts holding it on

(This is REALLY tough)

We used a small open ended 12mm wrench and put a flat head screwdriver as in the picture to hold the pulley in place.

LOTS OF ENERGY EXPENDED ON THIS STEP

Note - For Automatic tC's you will need to angle this correctly to get it out... but it is possible.

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/18.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 19 -

Look at the difference in pulleys and be amazed at the weight difference AGAIN!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/19.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 20 -

Put the new pulley back on and tighten the for 12mm bolts down


IT'S HARD TO HOLD THE PULLEY IN PLACE!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/20.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 21 -

Get your pulley removal tool READY for the CRANK PULLEY

(It's Scary Looking)

Put the outside hooks over the pulley edges and the loosen the middle screw to get them on, then tighten the screw and slowely pull the pulley off!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/21.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 22 -

Stare Amazed AGAIN at the difference in size, and feel the weight difference!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/22.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 23 -

Note to notch that MUST line up with the new pulley

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/23.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 24 -

Line the new pulley notch with your mentally noted mark and line it up correctly...

Use a nice rubber hammer, or block with hammer to knock that baby on.

Tighten it down to 110 ft/lbs

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/24.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 25 -

Slide the Alternator down into it's home and bolt it back down with the 14mm rear bolt and the 12mm bolt underneath... resnap in the cable harness and 10 mm bolt holding the wire to the top...

plug the wiring harness back in

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/25.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 26 -

Look at this nifty diagram to see how the belt goes on... it's really confusing....

Pull on the tensioner assembly again to pull the belt over the crank pulley

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/26.gif[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 27 -

Check the belt to ensure it lines up and freely moves

Look for any weird tools in the engine bay!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/27.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 28 -

Reattach the plastic piece and make sure to get the rear two pop-holders back in!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]http://home.comcast.net/%7ETheDesperFamily/28.jpg[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 29 -

Replace your wheel and torque it down to spec.... lower your car off the jackstand and start it up to ensure the belt runs freely and doesn't squeak or move back and forth[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]:) :)



[/table:ba5e3ba19b]


If I forget something, please let me know, and I'll do my best to get it in... Suggestions to improve are welcome!


-WDS

Good writeup, any chance of a dyno?

Not a before/after... as I can't fork out more cash... but am looking to do a Dyno to tune my N2O, so I'll have one with all my parts installed, including these, so you can get a good look at an Intake/Header/Exhaust w/ Pulleys dyno and then when running the ZEX kit as well...

I'd be curious, but I'm definately sure my Butt Dyno will read well and I'll post my honest opinion regarding it.

...I hope

Sweet

how hard is it to swap all 3 out for warranty work?

how hard is it to swap all 3 out for warranty work?

It's pretty easy with air tools. The alt pulley is the hardest one because of the limited space. But if you take the alt off, then it's a breeze.

my payment just cleared so im hopeing it ship soon but glad to see you helping out the comunity with a write up (im to lazy to do sutch things lol)

Keeping an eye on this...thanks

awesome, great choice in pulley's. you'll really feel the diff.

There you go Guys!

WDS comes through again!

man

mods let him be a moderator

shoot, if i hadnt known, i think he is one
LOOKA T HIS FREAKIN CONTRIBUTION

-taek

o he is. master of locking threads... Hey how bout telling us your take on performance diffrences?

agreed, CAN YOU FEEL IT? (try to imagin those words in the tone you would say can you dig it? lol yea i suck at life what can i say..... :doh: )

Ohh.... reving feels so much more responsive to my feet... 1st and 2nd definately give me more of an inititial shift-in response and my clutch/gas transitions feel so much smoother, as the engine picks right up!

Very happy with this one.... much more "Feeling' than my strut bar and such....

The Butt Dyno is impressed....

so its worth it?

mike from NST pretty much convinecd me to get them haha (im just gonna get the crank tho)

they have great customer service tho. im impressed.

I believe everyone would be definately impressed with the feeling for the money... all three weight much less than stock... I have to weigh the stock pullies at work on monday on my postal scale, but there is a significant weight difference with all three...

im just gonna get the crank. i dont wanna play with the other stuff. im a wimp lol

It's not that hard, as you can see ^ Golly LoL :P

does it use the stock belt? from the pictures, there's a significant size difference in the crank and alt pully....eventually that stock belt will stretch and slipping/squeeling may start....

i could be wrong tho, i haven't checked how much the tensioner adjusts...

Under Tools Needed

Good Air Gun Setup
New Belt - Number K060747
Open Ended Wrench 12mm
Socket Set with 10mm/19mm/14mm/22mm/12mm
Flathead ScrewDriver
Good Socket Breaker Bar
Pulley Removal Tool (Less That 20 bucks at harbor freight)
Nice Bright Lights (To See)
Good Torque wrench (Up to 110 ft/lbs)
Strap Wrench (To hold pulleys in place)

LoL - If all else fails... read the directions.... LoL

great writeup. i would of never taken the time to put those pulley's on. just paid a local performance shop to do it. mod, this should go in the TECH section.

AWESOME How-to. Gotta love those pulleys and this man's work :bow:

Thanks guys.... just givin' back!

Awesome write up! WDS, thanks to you and your influence... it has pushed me into getting my hands dirty as well!

hey nice write up!! wish i could have done that.... did you have the same issue of the water pulley that i told you where it was almost to wide to fit around the water pump?

Not at all.... Are you running an automatic possibly? That may be a small difference.... I took your comments into consideration when I did it, but it just pulled off and the new one just slid right on....


The only waterpump issue is just the tight frickin' bolts that hold it on....

yeah my car is an auto. Always seems like stuff is just a little to tight or just off with it. Ehhh what cha gonna do? he he.... Yeah i had to use a strap wrench and fancy words to gt the water pulley bolts loose too.

I updated the how-to to encourage the auto owners to angle it to get it out.... Thanks for the tip... they're welcome for sure.

NICE except i never needed a pulley remover for my crank pulley. all i did was once the bolt was removed it came right off with a tiny bit of wiggling and the new one went on NP. I am only saying this because if you dont have a pulley remover, dont worry about getting one because you really dont need it.

The puller tool is not always a necessity, sometimes crank pulleys actually slide off pretty easily. Just to be on the safe side though, you could always go to your local autozone and actually rent one for FREE. Just put down a small deposit and they will return it once you bring the tool back :)

Mine definately didn't slide off easily.... I tried.

I suggest a pulley puller just in case as well

ok now - whats the dirt on people saying that this is not a good upgrade for the long term of your car? I am interested in hearing the downside of this because if there wasnt any everybody would be doing this without even questioning it. From what I hear the performance gain is there just by driving the car ....you know there is a difference. I am not running a large sound system. The most I am going to do is change out my headunit in a year or so, add one 25x4 amp and keep my 8inch bass tube. Ive had large systems in my cars in the past and they were great. This cars sound is going to have 2 small amps max. ( figured i would say that so people know how to respond w/ better details).

There is nothing negative in regards to audio/water anyone has even discussed.... but, If you run a large system, it is best to get the overdrive alternator pulley just to be sure you're charging well enough for it...

The discussions revolved around the lack of a harmonic dampener in the tC aftermarket pulleys... and that the stock pulley has a rubber insert which is debated to reduce harmonic vibrations, which possibly could damage your engine over time, per others debate...

The examples stated were of Supra engines that were pushing some MAJOR HP... and I know of many running lightweight and underdrive pulleys for 70+ thousand miles with no problems whatsoever... so I really took their consideration into account, but ultimately decided that there wasn't any real information I could find anywhere on google to back up those claims and I found many things stating all the positive results people achieved....

You shouldn't have a problem to worry about at all....

If you have any questions about this install, please feel free to PM me and ask me...

so im sitting here playing with my pully waiting to install it when i get off work


but i cant figure out wtf these 2 threaded wholes are on the side of where the pully bolts to the crank


any one know??? im about 100% sure they dont get used in the install

so im sitting here playing with my pully waiting to install it when i get off work


but i cant figure out wtf these 2 threaded wholes are on the side of where the pully bolts to the crank


any one know??? im about 100% sure they dont get used in the install

They don't get used. They are there for ease of taking the pulley off, if you use a pulley puller to remove it. But they are not needed at all.

Boy I need to get mine on :lol:

so im sitting here playing with my pully waiting to install it when i get off work


but i cant figure out wtf these 2 threaded wholes are on the side of where the pully bolts to the crank


any one know??? im about 100% sure they dont get used in the install

They don't get used. They are there for ease of taking the pulley off, if you use a pulley puller to remove it. But they are not needed at all.


thanks thats what i figgured

so im sitting here playing with my pully waiting to install it when i get off work


but i cant figure out wtf these 2 threaded wholes are on the side of where the pully bolts to the crank


any one know??? im about 100% sure they dont get used in the install

They don't get used. They are there for ease of taking the pulley off, if you use a pulley puller to remove it. But they are not needed at all.


thanks thats what i figgured

No problem

yeah the pulley pullers you are supposed to use to remove harmonic dampers/balancers (a.k.a. crank pullies) actually screw into holes in the pulley. Hence the reason they are there. The puller he used was a gear puller. Works just as well.

Outstanding write-up also man.. it took my slow arse government computer all dang day to load the pics and all.. :) I cant wait to get them on though..

Thanks... I just found a good cheap solution at harbor freight to pull the pulley off... didn't know it was a "Gear" puller.... Hey, whatever works... LoL

Thanks... I just found a good cheap solution at harbor freight to pull the pulley off... didn't know it was a "Gear" puller.... Hey, whatever works... LoL


ahhh harbor freight lol



tools so cheap it doesnt matter if they break after one use there cheap enought that you can buy 100 of them use them each once and still cost less then a good version of it :P


i get alot of verious things there that dont need to be reliable

:lol:

update my buddy got the belt for me so im just waiting to get off work in 3 hours and 30 min the 1 hour drive home then 30 min to install this and you will have my review 20 min after that so dont bother waiting for it lol

Not excited our anything.. Are you?.... it's REALLY quick to do just the crank... like changing a tire...

:lol: sounds like he is! :) I am too.. its just bubbling over inside.

more excited to be getting out of work in 3 hours then to be installing it but i also want to install it :P

:lol: Thats why I am leaving now..

wow i cant count lol i get out in 1 hour and 40 min now but still atleast 3 hours before i get home if not more

You two.... you're both so impatient.... scared to see how you drive

^ ask some se chicago memebers how i drive lol im a crazy bastered but not with traffic and i calm down with passangers to

You got to update me as soon as you get this baby in.

:rofl: I drive like a jerk. I wont lie.. I'm the one you b!tch at all the time.. :lol: I think I can drive well actually.. but most of my passengers agree.. I can drive.

Aaron.. you get yours on?

nope it rained and it was cold and i got offered drinking and a trip to the movies for free so how could i pass that up 40's and the ringer come on lol


but ill install it today for sure i hope it drys up though so i can abuse my car and see if there is a noticable diffrance or not

:lol: I understand.. :) Hopefully I can get mine on soon too!

I hope you guys can get your rear's in gear and get er dun!

You won't be dissapointed.

i hate that redneck comedy lol



but today for sure as long as i dont spend all day molesting my rims since they just got droped off by fedex

:lol: Its like you have a rare case of A.D.D. :rofl:

Its raining here today.. I must be getting Aarons rain.. :( Damnit.. Oh well.. I am not in that big of a hurry.. yet.

:lol: Its like you have a rare case of A.D.D. :rofl:

Its raining here today.. I must be getting Aarons rain.. :( Damnit.. Oh well.. I am not in that big of a hurry.. yet.


no no no its not my rain becouse my rain started up again lol




and as far as the a.d.d. i think you might be right lol

its sunny!!!!!!! and at 330 no less it should be getting dark by now lol but ill isntall it tonight since its dry for the most part and let you know what i think of it

Cool..... Hope it goes smooth

I'm also really hoping that the SAFCII trick is unveiled in the next weeks....

well i now have a good 50 miles of driving on it and it seems its worth the cash the power gain down low and in the low gears is good its the most noticble mod i have done so far. just dont expect the WORLD of diffrance i have heared some ppl claim but for $100 its well worth the cash


the only issue i hade with the install was finding the bolt for the tensioner im used to it being the one on the pully but it turns out its right next to the pully lol took me like 10 min to notice that

w0rd.. do you have to have the new belt to install the crank pully?

w0rd.. do you have to have the new belt to install the crank pully?

Yes you do. The NST pulley is a 6 rib pulley. The factory belt is 7 ribs and longer.

kk.. thanks bro :)

kk.. thanks bro :)

You got it 8)

well i now have a good 50 miles of driving on it and it seems its worth the cash the power gain down low and in the low gears is good its the most noticble mod i have done so far. just dont expect the WORLD of diffrance i have heared some ppl claim but for $100 its well worth the cash


the only issue i hade with the install was finding the bolt for the tensioner im used to it being the one on the pully but it turns out its right next to the pully lol took me like 10 min to notice that

Really close to my thoughts.... the other pulleys just help even more...

The Tensioner is a little forward of the pulley.... it is a little different... took me a minute to notice it too.

Under Tools Needed

Good Air Gun Setup
New Belt - Number K060747
Open Ended Wrench 12mm
Socket Set with 10mm/19mm/14mm/22mm/12mm
Flathead ScrewDriver
Good Socket Breaker Bar
Pulley Removal Tool (Less That 20 bucks at harbor freight)
Nice Bright Lights (To See)
Good Torque wrench (Up to 110 ft/lbs)
Strap Wrench (To hold pulleys in place)

LoL - If all else fails... read the directions.... LoL


haha...my bad

FIRST POST UPDATED... CHECK OUT THE DIFFERENCE IN WEIGHT!

[table:d13e04f4ca][mrow:d13e04f4ca]Crank Pulley[mcol:d13e04f4ca]Alternator Pulley[mcol:d13e04f4ca]Water Pulley[mrow:d13e04f4ca]OEM ~55oz[mcol:d13e04f4ca]OEM 9.6 oz[mcol:d13e04f4ca]OEM 13.4 oz[mrow color=red:d13e04f4ca]NST UNDERDRIVE 20oz[mcol:d13e04f4ca]NST OVERDRIVE 3oz[mcol:d13e04f4ca]NST LIGHTWEIGHT 6.3oz[/table:d13e04f4ca]

so the crank pulley is only torqued to 110? i always thought they're on tighter than that...like around 230 or something.

Nope... 110 is it.

placin my order for all 3 next week, gettin rid of this ZPI pulley, too many issues

Well done..... you'll be happy.

im sure i will be
i wanted the v2. pulley from ZPI, but they won't help me out...so f it

NST has some pretty cool guys.... I've talked to them on AIM and such and they are really supportive and want to develope more for the tC platform.

they were exrtemely helpful

Hey ScionBandit, any chance you could do a before and after dyno for us? A lot of people here would love to see that happen :pray:

Hey ScionBandit, any chance you could do a before and after dyno for us? A lot of people here would love to see that happen :pray:


you guys give me the other 2 pullys free and ill head on down to sound performance and do them this weekend :P


they are a very cool company and very supportive of there product and helped me make my choice

Hey ScionBandit, any chance you could do a before and after dyno for us? A lot of people here would love to see that happen :pray:

i can't promise anything, but i can try...
i won't be gettin the pulleys for a couple more weeks

As soon as I can find someone to install these damn things.. then I will do that. I might go this weekend and get the baseline dyno, get them on and dyno again.

It's be nice to see the realworld numbers..... posting the cell now.... gutsy....

Forgot bout that

yeah i seen that earlier today and was like wtf lol who lists there cell number on a forum.... in every post lol

Maybe a strange question but is there any harm or help with just swapping in the NST LT Water Pump pulley with lets say a ZPI LT crank pulley for those who don't want to overdrive or underdrive anything or replace belts ? :eyebrow:

^^ YES, you can throw on the NST water pump and alternator pulleys and keep your stock crank pulley and stock belt.

The result of using just the NST accessory pulleys, along with a stock crank pulley, would be a little bit better throttle responce and a bit of weight reduction. You stereo system lovers would see some nice gains from your alternator as well.

Add a lightweight stock sized crank pulley, and you will get a bit more weight reduction and throttle responce added to the above mentioned benefits.

Get the full NST kit that includes all three pulleys, and you will get all of the above mentioned benefits as well as the most possible hPower gain :love:

YES, you can throw on the NST water pump and alternator pulleys and keep your stock crank pulley and stock belt.

Not exactly what I asked..... I was debating the ZPI LT crank pullley with ONLY the NST LT water pump pulley setup. No underdriving or overdriving setup. The NST alternator is 20% overdrive so I doubt you can keep the stock belt.

Anybody else got ideas on this ? Doesnt matter if you personally like it or not just feedback on if I should bother picking up the NST LT Water pump pulley or just put on the ZPI V.2.0 Crank that i got last week and leave it at that.

Thanks Guys! :bow: [/quote]

i have the ZPI pulley, not worth the money in my opinion...i took it off, gettin the NST set up instead

Not exactly what I asked..... I was debating the ZPI LT crank pullley with ONLY the NST LT water pump pulley setup. No underdriving or overdriving setup. The NST alternator is 20% overdrive so I doubt you can keep the stock belt.


I asked my friend who is an NST repp on AIM tonight and asked him about this question. You can find them yourself and ask, look for NSTonAIM.

You can use the stock belt with either the NST water pump pulley, alternator pulley, or both of them. He said the only time you need to change the belt would be if you used their underdrive crank pulley. And overdriving the alternator by 20% will not hurt the alternator, it will make it charge at a lower RPM, which is a good thing :) He did say going past 25% is probably too much, but using what the 20% OD pulley is no problem. I dont know how much better I can answer this question for you.

:P

Thanks for the info, I stand corrected. I didnt realize the amount of tension adjustablity built into the belt system. Anyways, I went with a ZPI & NST combo which keeps with stock size pulleys. Check my link for new pix of the pulleys! :eyebrow:

Thanks for the info, I stand corrected. I didnt realize the amount of tension adjustablity built into the belt system. Anyways, I went with a ZPI & NST combo which keeps with stock size pulleys. Check my link for new pix of the pulleys! :eyebrow:

how bout an update on how that combination went for you. gains?

what about a stock sized light pulley that can be used with the TRD S/C??

what about a stock sized light pulley that can be used with the TRD S/C??

Here you go:
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/1573_1829_2146_2946/products_id/10126
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/images/tcdynosheeta.jpg
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/images/tcpulleycompare.jpg

Sweet...thanks munch.

Sweet...thanks munch.

No problem 8)

why are u using zpi's crappy pulley, and not the V2?

Why do one, when you can do THREE!!!!! :P

Anyways, I went with a ZPI & NST combo which keeps with stock size pulleys. Check my link for new pix of the pulleys!

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/122000-122999/122100_160_full.jpg

Well, I got my setup installed last week and this combo results in pulley weight reduction amounting to 47.90 Oz. or 2.99 LBS. while using the stock belt, allowing quickened and smoothened acceleration on my Auto TC. Click the link below for the new pulley install pix or search for appropriate threads on Scionlife. :P

Ok i have searched and searched for this but simply cant find it: Where can you buy the new belt that you need to install the pulley? Can you just pic it up at autozone or is it something your mechanic should already have? I read through this thread until the words started running together so i apologize if i overlooked it or something. Thanks!

You can look for the belt number on www.NonStopTuning.com and then take the number to your local Auto Zone to pick up the belt you need. Most auto parts stores sell these belts for about 12 to 15 dollars.

thanks! thats what i wanted to hear!

What torque should each pulley be torqued to?

really tight :)

yep very useful, im gonna get it just because u have it!! LOL

Update... still all good... not a problem in the world!

WDS, if you ever plan to supercharge, you'll have to take out the pulleys right?

the crank pulley, but NST has a lightweight that he could swap out also

Yo,

Can these pulleys be used when im going turbo??

**edit**

you can use an underdrive on a turbo setup because the turbo is run off the exhaust. The supercharger you must use a stock size so it doesn't slow down the belt speed, thus reducing boost since the supercharger is not turning as fast.

Great info.... Plan on using it this weekend. Also give me an excuse to buy new tools! =o)

ok if the sc needs stock size crank pulley to keep it rotating at the right speed, how come its ok to change out the sc pulley for a smaller one. wouldnt that mess up the rotating speed as well??

quick question... the manual guys can just put it in gear and keep the engine from turning over as easy....what about me, the auto tC guy??

i was thinking like have the wheel on, lower the car so both are touching, undo the bolt, jack back up, then repeat in reverse order.....

or does the engine just not turn over??

ok if the sc needs stock size crank pulley to keep it rotating at the right speed, how come its ok to change out the sc pulley for a smaller one. wouldnt that mess up the rotating speed as well??
Right, the crank pulley being underdrive means it slows down the belt, thus the s/c pulley turns slower which reduces boost. If you keep the crank pulley the same and add a s/c pulley (smaller pulley), the s/c will spin much faster because in order for a pulley of smaller diameter to spin at the same belt speed, it must turn faster to keep up. Just like walking next to someone with really short legs. They have to walk twice as fast to keep up with you.

ok gotcha. well i just got my nst underdrive pulley installed today, as well as my camcon vvt-i controller installed, and partly tuned by my friend. well let me just say, that the buttdyno likes what it feels. not much of a difference, but noticeable.

Just bumpin' it back up.... good install and still run these with my FI setup without an issue.

If you replace just the alt and the WP would you have to get a new belt and/or would the new belt work with the same size crank pulley?

If you look on their website you will see that the NST underdrive crank pulley needs to be installed with a new belt, but the water pump and alternator pulley can be installed with the stock belt. Only the underdrive crank pulley needs a new belt.

hey is the crank pulley bolt a regular bolt or does it come out clock wise. I had a hella lot of trouble today trying to get my crank bolt off and wondering if it was a right hand bolt or left hand bolt

Standard bolt.... air tools help a bit...

Installed mine about 2 hours ago. It's a great mod!


Notes-


1) The stock pulley is a hunk of steel... NOT a vibration dampner. I had concerns with vibrations until I saw this monstrosity for itself.

2) Yes, you DO need a pulley puller. The crank bolt can be removed with a bigass cheater bar or breaker bar.

3) If your local autoparts store doesn't sell gates belts, then the goodyear Gatorback # 4060755 // 6PK1920 also works fine. Use this for cross-reference. Autozone's computers will not have the gates belt in it.

4) The 6-ribs of the underdrive pulley line up with the INNER 6 of the 7-ribbed other pullies. I had no issues this way.

5) This mod doesn't change your power delivery, so it's kinda sneaky. Butt dyno feels the same, but that needle's moving much faster now, and I can break loose the 18's easily.

How much does the alternator output drop when using the NST crank pulley without the alternator pulley?

i still cant even get the damn bolt off :lmao

lol

Old thread, but i finished installing the NST Pulley about an hour ago. I must say; I notice a difference. It chirps into second where it didnt before but I may be a bit excited and driving a lil harder. Thanks for the DIY guide. It saved me $55.00. I have a thousand watt amp installed I am unsure if its gonna take a hit....but its more easily removable.

I have mentioned it before, if you have issues removing the alt pulley take it to pepboys and usually they will sway it for free or a few bucks.......
also rent a serpentine belt tool, it saves a lot of time loosening the tenisoner.

as for electrical issues, i had none. It was 115 during the summer and the A/C worked flawlessly

so there is no real difference in the a/c or alternator performance?? i wan kinda worried about that

I have a question?

So basically i just want to do the crank (skip on the alt and water pulley) and was curious if there would be any cons just doing that one? Is it still worth it to do just the crank??

talk to mike from NST, he knows is pullies. From what i have heard here is that you do get minimal gains from just the crank but if you want to really notice the difference get all 3. as for alt and electrical performance I did not ahve any issues However i had a optima battery which im sure helps, and if you have a system you may want to do that anyway and run a stiffening cap, it helps store power and im sure cant hurt.

Ive got all three and they work fine with my stock battery. no complaints for a few months now.

So for all of you that have these pully's, Any issues with them? Like vibrations, added belt wear, ext ext. Also how many miles with your pully's ?

can anyone please tell me a way that i can get the pulley just for the crank loose with out air tools i have an impact gun..but i dont have air..long story short im guessin i can leave the belt on and just leave the car in like 3rd or 4th gear and try busting it loose i have a torque wrench to put it back on but i think get the nut loose might be a problem.. i also have blue loctite that i will be usin to put back on..can anyone help me out here?.. any suggestions on how to remove the crank pulley with no air tools..?

well now im sold on getting all 3! how much did you pay and where can i get them?

So for all of you that have these pully's, Any issues with them? Like vibrations, added belt wear, ext ext. Also how many miles with your pully's ?

There is a big thread here with answers to all your questions...
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=122725&highlight=pulley+owners


well now im sold on getting all 3! how much did you pay and where can i get them?
www.NonStopTuning.com

i just bought these pulleys and arrived today, only i already had the Agency Power crank pulley so i didnt have to buy that one.

All i have to say is WOW :bow:
The alternator was a bit tricky to get out, and the water pump pulley is a B!t(h to get out, damn it.

but over all, once i finished it, the results are amazing, and let me say, its not easy doing it alone, u deff want a helping hand but it can be done alone, i didnt need any special tools, but i would like to thank Mike at NST for helping me in the purchase, i couldnt have ordered them w/o him, excelent service provided by them, and easy AIM chat directly, if i had another tC, i would deff buy it again, and its a def recomendation to instal these on ur tC

doing install on my NST underdrive pulley tomorrow. I have an auto. Whats the best way to get the bolt off? Do I need to put the car in neutral or drive or park or what?

leave it in park, jack up the car, take the bolt off first, then the belt w/ the help of a friend so u can swap the pulley and put the belt back on, its the easiest install i've ever done 10-15 min. for this.

its nothing compared to everything else, if the bolt is being a d!ck to get off, spray from liquid wrench or WD40 on it and let it sit for a few min. then try again, use an Impack Wrench, however u spell it, im telling u, 10-15 min. tops

Well it is a underdrive pulley so I have to replace the belt! But still, a few more hours! I'll let you guys know results and whatnot... :P

wait a sec. u dont have to charge the belt, unless u got the 20% reduced size pulley from NST then u must change the belt, but if u didnt and u just got the light weight pulley then u DONT have to change the belt. The pulley that i got from Agency Power is on a light weight pulley so the OEM belt works fine, and i have a NST pulley kit for the alt. and water pump, and the OEM belt still fits fine, i even spoke to Mike from NST and he told me the same thing, my car works fine

I just installed my NST pulley set today - and I can definitely feel a difference. First and second gear go by alot quicker. I just thought that I would share a trick that my friend used to get the crank pulley bolt off - for those that don't have an impact wrench. Just grab a sturdy socket wrench with the 19mm socket on it and put in on the bolt. Position the wrench so that the handle is in front of the lower control arm (to the right of it if you are looking at the pulley). This is what will keep the wrench from turning. After the wrench is set, put the keys in the ignition and turn the key so that the starter will try to turn the engine over. It only takes one click of the starter - be careful to not start your car. Since the crank pulley turns clockwise, it will break the bolt loose. I was absolutely amazed at how easy this was - and I couldn't beleive that I had not read this anywhere. Anyways, I love the pulleys - thumbs up for NST. Time to begin the turbo fund...

HAHAHAHA, same here man, i started my turbo fund as well, time to go turbo and get some real power, more $$$ to dump into this car, lets c $10K should do it, turbo, trany upgrade, poly engine mounts, engine damper, coil overs, stage 2 brake kit, internal swap, head swap, cam swap, etc. HAHAHAHAHA i cant wait for the power

so, if just the underdrive crank pulley is installed, is the loss to say, your ac noticable at all if i have no system wut so ever running?
*edit
o ya and also the NST pully is blue and comes anodized,right? but it didnt say if its the stock size or if i need a new belt if i just want the crank pulley. the agency power crank pully is stock size but doesnt say if it comes anodized? hlp plz ty :pray:

it isnt necessarily blue, mine is grayish i believe.

there are 2 different kinds of crank pulleys from NST

there is a reduced weight and a 20% weight reduction (smaller size) which will require u to get a new belt

and yes they come in 2 colors, grey and blue

my set up my car is AP pulley for crank and the NST pulley kit for the water pump and alternator

will a reduced weight give the same gains as a 20% weight reduction

yes, but u will need the gates belt K060747 which can be bought at any pep boys, auto zone, kreigen, or whatever

http://www.nonstoptuning.com/pKitToySciTC.htm

this is the link straight from NST, talk to Mike if u need more help, hes the CEO

ty :D

ok another Q please. NST makes a lite crank pulley. i sent nst an email and it said that the OEM diamater lite crank pulley should be used for the TRD supercharged tc's and that i should get the underdrive crank pulley but i really dont want to replace the belt. has anyone on here just orderd the lite crank pulley for a n/a tc?

NST makes 2 crank pulleys
one that is 20% smaller and one that is just lite weight
the 20% smaller pulley requires a new belt, and the lite weight doesnt, its that easy

If you get a turbo u can use the smaller pulley, if u go S/C u must use the lite weight pulley.

so once again:
lite weight pulley = OEM belt
smallet pulley = New Belt

ill put it this way, i have the AP pulley, and NST pulley kit for alt. and water pump, w/ an OEM belt, works fine

i want this pulley set

okay so coming from mustangworld to scion-life (best choice, ford quality sucks) we would change pulleys easily, but for the life of me i cant remember what exactly it does for the engine besides make the accessories run faster, the crank still turns at the same rate correct? also is there a need to change the speedo calibration also, or this has nothing to do with the pulley system. as forementioned there was a problem with the speedos being off after pulley changes. please correct or explain to me if im wrong.

edit--- it was the rear end gears being changed that caused the speedo problem my bad sorry!

well according to NST and everywhere else, changing the crank pulley frees up HP, its a light weight pulley so it allows the crank to spin faster, thus freeing up HP, and as for the speedo, i never had to do that to my scion but i wouldnt know for mustangs, personaly i dont like mustangs cuz they have too many issues

20% Alternator + WP-Lite KIT are out of stock. :(

Dude, you just saved me a lot of time figuring that all out.

Well done on the write up!

I have the Agency Crank Pulley...woo-hoo!

gonna attempt to Install!...wish me Luck!!!

I have NO clue how to do it...from the DIY its kinda scary!...

good luck man... its not that hard... just make sure you have a torque wrench .... or a big guy with you

my belt is slipping off. My buddy tell me to tighten the belt tensioner. I thought the tc belt tensioner automaticly tighten when i let go. If I am wrong, how do i tighten the belt tensioner?

(7 month bump)

Just did this today... finally. Though I gave up on the WP pulley. I got the crank and alternator on... figured those are the important ones. Just couldn't find a good way to get the wp one done. Everything seems fine though... rev seems a bit easier... can't verify too much from a "power" standpoint. Just not sure. There's probably more there, but I'm always skeptical of stating little changes.

so with the changes u made with the pulleys is it worth the money

bump....I'm thinking about this but is it worth the supposed "risks"

bump....I'm thinking about this but is it worth the supposed "risks"
I don't really know of many "risks" ... if you read through the first page of this thread, you'll get some more info on those supposed "risks." A non-issue IMO.

As for worth it... ya. For the feeling and potential power - they're a great bolt on that you can actually notice.

well, I read threads a few months ago about harmonic dampening and what not....and so thats been keeping me away from this for a while. I'm currently torn between getting a ETD, pulleys or an intake.....

You'll notice more from the pulleys, IMO (though I do not have an ETD).

Best post to read on the harmonic dampening...
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1281720#1281720

Has anybody installed these 3 with the S/C already installed? I'm going to tackle it soon and I wanted to see if anybody had some advice for me lol....now the only problem I'm having is, finding a new belt that will work with the stock s/c pulley and the smaller alt pulley, any suggestions? thank you.

noice!!

The most COMPREHENSIVE thread regarding pulleys, all the most frequently asked (as well as hardly ever asked) questions and answers, pictures, customer reviews, and anything else you would ever want to know about NonStopTuning Crank, Alternator, and Water Pump Pulley Kits can be found here...

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154930

http://www.nonstoptuning.com/images/NSTScionTC/NST02148RG.jpg


Good luck and have fun with all your projects everyone!!!

nice write up..how did i miss this

was gonna install my underdrive crank pulley today, but i had to run to advance for a serpentine belt tool. that tensioner is ____ing impossible to get to! there simply isn't enough space to fitch a ratchet and socket between the side of the engine and the metal framing the engine bay. now that i have the serpentine tool it's too dark to work. sheesh. ill try again tommorow and it should go real quick. ill post with my thoughts.

nice write up..how did i miss this

Thanks.... sorry I let some of the pics get out of sync on my hosting server... fixed now, but lost one pic... (it is a really old post though and I've moved away from Scions, but I'll keep the pics up as I think it's one of my better DIYs)

Thanks.... sorry I let some of the pics get out of sync on my hosting server... fixed now, but lost one pic... (it is a really old post though and I've moved away from Scions, but I'll keep the pics up as I think it's one of my better DIYs)

Thank you very much. This is a great DIY guide indeed :)

I just installed my NST pulley set today - and I can definitely feel a difference. First and second gear go by alot quicker. I just thought that I would share a trick that my friend used to get the crank pulley bolt off - for those that don't have an impact wrench. Just grab a sturdy socket wrench with the 19mm socket on it and put in on the bolt. Position the wrench so that the handle is in front of the lower control arm (to the right of it if you are looking at the pulley). This is what will keep the wrench from turning. After the wrench is set, put the keys in the ignition and turn the key so that the starter will try to turn the engine over. It only takes one click of the starter - be careful to not start your car. Since the crank pulley turns clockwise, it will break the bolt loose. I was absolutely amazed at how easy this was - and I couldn't beleive that I had not read this anywhere. Anyways, I love the pulleys - thumbs up for NST. Time to begin the turbo fund...


This tip how ever old it is, is absolutely priceless. I was struggling trying to hold the crank pulley in place and then decided to give it a whirl. THANK YOU! haha:clap:

Installed Crank, Alternator, and water pump pulley....LOVE IT! More torque and better throttle response.

Installation was easier with air tools, but overall, it wasn't bad. about 3 hours. I decided to remove the alternator entirely. Makes everything so much easier.

I drive an 05 Automatic with 128,000 miles. No problems so far! Thanks NST!

Installed Crank, Alternator, and water pump pulley....LOVE IT! More torque and better throttle response.

Installation was easier with air tools, but overall, it wasn't bad. about 3 hours. I decided to remove the alternator entirely. Makes everything so much easier.

I drive an 05 Automatic with 128,000 miles. No problems so far! Thanks NST!


THANK YOU!!!

And thank you everyone, who has chimed in here in this thread. Your help and support is always much appreciated!

:love: