I have a JL 12w3v2 D4 speaker.

Will this enclosure work? :eyebrow:
http://www.circuitcity.com/rpsm/oid/119723/rpem/ccd/productDetailReview.do#tabs

Thanks for you help!

It doesnt say the air space... you need to find out what the volume is.

Keith, do you happen to know off the top of your head, or by eyeballing the JL audio site how much min/max air volume a 12w3v2 d4 speaked requires?

Your speaker suggest enclosure sizes are:
Sealed Enclosure Range: 1.00-1.50 cu.ft. (28.3-42.0 liters)
Ported Enclosure Range: 2.00-3.00 cu.ft. (57.0-85.0 liters)

The box is 1.75cu ft, I'd say it's a tad bit too small.

well pooie. I can always go exchange/return it. ANy suggestion on sealed vs. ported? I really am completely clueless when it comes to car audio

What kinda music you listen to?

Wow, Hardcore/Gabber, trance, house, punk, hip hop/rap, metal.....my taste is everything really.

The Q-Logic QLH-1.2512 would work for sealed, at 1.25 cu.ft, I am assuming....

Wow, Hardcore/Gabber, trance, house, punk, hip hop/rap, metal.....my taste is everything really.

The Q-Logic QLH-1.2512 would work for sealed, at 1.25 cu.ft, I am assuming....

Seal that sucker.

Gonna do much better w/ the trance/house music than a ported box will.

That box is for a pair of subs...and would be a little too tall to have the cover in...I'm pretty sure the tC only has 14"...but I could be wrong, since I haven't had a normal hatch for 6 months :)

ahh, sorry, they make a single sealed version of that....

I'd highly suggest a sealed enclosure as well...flatter response being the main reason....plus vented enclosures are really driver(subwoofer) specific.... the margin of error in a vented enclosure is very large... one wrong dimention or spec and the whole thing sounds like crap.... Sealed enclosures don't have to be so pin-point accurate to get a good sound from....

Plus...even my 18 didn't get low enough for some of the crap my old roommate listened to when it was ported....at 26Hz.

sealed all the way

Next set of questions. This speaker/box will be powered by a Kicker KX350.2

Someone on caraudioforums.com mentioned that I would have to do either....
http://www.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1451266&posted=1#post1451266

Option 1: Buy another D4 subwoofer and wire them to 1 ohm like the pic I posted.

Option 2: Buy another amp that gives out 250W-300W at 2 ohms.


???? lemme know whatcha think.

look here
http://www.cardomain.com/item/KIC04KX3502

it says your amp is 350x1 @ 4ohms... if your sub is dual 4ohm, than you won't be able to get the right power to it. You need to have 2 of your subs and wire them like this:
http://www.the12volt.com/images4/woofer_wiring/cropped/2_4ohm_dvc_4ohm.gif

otherwise, all you can do is wire your subs at 4 ohm stereo or 8ohm mono....both will get about the same power

So basically, You either need A) a new amp that's 350x1@ 2ohm or another sub like you have now..

edit: if you get another sub like you have now, you'll need to upgrade to a bigger amp that gets full power x 1 @ 1 ohm or 4 ohm...

Rec's on a good 350x1 watt amp?

or any 300-350 watt amp @ 2 ohm

JL Amp:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=244

Soundstream:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3209

otherwise, all you can do is wire your subs at 4 ohm stereo or 8ohm mono....both will get about the same power

I also have no idea what that means. I'm completely new to car audio stuff.

And if you want to get crazy, that sub could handle this, although you wouldn't want to pound on it too long.... and you wouldn't want to put test tones on it....
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=599

not competition or crazy, just fun to listen to :lol:

JL 300/2 on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-300-2-2-CHANNEL-FULL-RANGE-AMPLIFIER-WIRES_W0QQitemZ5857133188QQcategoryZ4950QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

that'd be clean!!

someone mentioned 300/2 not stable at 2 ohms. maybe a 2 50/1 or a Rockfors Fos. Punch P3001?

^^ You're right...it's not mono stable at 2 ohms.... but it does put out 150x2 @ 4ohms which would still be full power... that's what is so great about JL amps...

Since you have dual 4ohm VC's, all you have to do is hook up one channel + - to one side of the speaker + - and do the same with the other channel..... then take the 2 +'s on the sub and switch them.... this way both coils still get identical input cause they're both using half of each channel...

so, i'd basically run one channel of the amp to my speaker and nothing to the other? (i.e., 300watts @ 2 ohm per channel)

Or wire it like this to get 8ohm mono (which with that JL amp, will still give you 300 watts)

http://www.the12volt.com/images4/woofer_wiring/cropped/1_4ohm_dvc_8ohm.gif


this would probably be best with the JL amp....

Since you have dual 4ohm VC's, all you have to do is hook up one channel + - to one side of the speaker + - and do the same with the other channel..... then take the 2 +'s on the sub and switch them.... this way both coils still get identical input cause they're both using half of each channel...


Both channels (2+'s and 2-'s at the amp and at the sub) would be hooked up in this scenario....

will that fry my speaker at that load? http://www.abestweb.com/smilies/newb.gif

No....it will run properly because your amp will be seeing a stereo 4 ohm load...