huh? TurboToyotas has as "ZPI Replacement" manifold that will work witht the turbo from the ZPI kit, the 16g.
But it was the actuall ZPI kit that would run rich with no managmenet...the TT kit replaces the mani and all the IC pipeing, so it would effect the richness...

running too rich/running too lean = Bad Motor

Have you bought a kit yet?

no but I think I am going to frankinstine a kit together, megan racing mainfold and downpipe(only set I could find), tial 38mm wastegate(already have it), greddy bov(already have it), huge front mount intercooler(already mounted and installed, that was a _____ to fit in there), and since the megan racing manifolds are only compatable with a t3 flange, I think I am going to go with a t3/t4 50/63 turbo, unless you can sugest some thing better, I am going to go ahead and purchase everything else I need on friday, minus fuel management

no but I think I am going to frankinstine a kit together, megan racing mainfold and downpipe(only set I could find), tial 38mm wastegate(already have it), greddy bov(already have it), huge front mount intercooler(already mounted and installed, that was a _____ to fit in there), and since the megan racing manifolds are only compatable with a t3 flange, I think I am going to go with a t3/t4 50/63 turbo, unless you can sugest some thing better, I am going to go ahead and purchase everything else I need on friday, minus fuel management

I have heard that some of the Megan manifolds and downpipes fit for crap

the T3/T4 is always a crowd pleaser on here. lots of people are running them

i would say to buy this one on here

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=221681

you can alwyas get a set from turbo toyotas...atpturbo has a nice setup too...

he already PM'd the seller on the thread I linked

running too rich/running too lean = Bad Motor

Have you bought a kit yet?


Running to rich = bad plugs, gas, and horse power.

Running to lean = KABOOM!

What size is the Turbo Toyota intake 3"? and what size is the stage zero intake 2.5"? I think the way the 2 kits run is due to the maf placement. I have a custom 3" intake with the injen maf holder from my old intake, and my car stumbles and the a/f are all over the place when I let off the gas even with a fi/c.

Some pics of my custom stage zero / backyard brawler kit
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n245/jjos1/0428081809.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n245/jjos1/0428081809a.jpg

yeah, i think it's got to do with maf placement and size of the intake...

mines running fine with my stage 0.

the stage 0 intake size IS 2.5"
but what is still a stage 0 on your turbo?

mines running fine with my stage 0.

the stage 0 intake size IS 2.5"
but what is still a stage 0 on your turbo?

Nothing mine is all custom t3 / t104e 50 trim .63a/r, atp 3" down pipe / cast manifold I was just trying to see how people are running with no fuel management and if anyone is having stumbling or erratic a/f

Yeah, it's 2.5. It's about the piping in order to run it without the fuel management.

Yeah, it's 2.5. It's about the piping in order to run it without the fuel management.

I would still run EMS of some sort

ive been running my stage 0 w/o injectors or ems since the date in my sig.
but my next mod is getting emanage and tune

ive been running my stage 0 w/o injectors or ems since the date in my sig.
but my next mod is getting emanage and tune

I think there was a guy on here who had the stage 0 for about 3-4 months without ems or injectors and he fried his rings on his motor. So please be careful with the kit!!!

im trying to talk my damn brother into it being the next mod instead of spending his damn 300 to detail it, when i can detail it.

hes being to errogant right now i cant stand it. he still has YET to take me to get an oil change OR the shocks for the hatch

im trying to talk my damn brother into it being the next mod instead of spending his damn 300 to detail it, when i can detail it.

hes being to errogant right now i cant stand it. he still has YET to take me to get an oil change OR the shocks for the hatch

a swift kick to the balls may help your case!

im thinking about it
like does he not realize ITS FOR THE SAFETY OF THE DAMN CAR?

im thinking about it
like does he not realize ITS FOR THE SAFETY OF THE DAMN CAR?

you should take as many steps to protect the motor as possible when you are F/Iing a N/A car

im just so ____ed off at him right now

im just so ____ed off at him right now

isn't it his car?

yeah, the same car i have over 2k in

yeah, the same car i have over 2k in

I would cash out and let it be his own if he is not going to listen to you

i thought about that, but i love the car to much

we'll see though, ill talk him into it

i thought about that, but i love the car to much

we'll see though, ill talk him into it

3 years from now you may want somethig different :lalala:

i know lol.
i think i talked him into it for the next mod, just not any time soon. have to save up :D

i thought about that, but i love the car to much

we'll see though, ill talk him into it

3 years from now you may want somethig different :lalala:



Yeah, I will want something different to in 3 years too.....like a RWD conversion to my tC... :silly:

Yeah, it's 2.5. It's about the piping in order to run it without the fuel management.

I would still run EMS of some sort


Then you might as well get a Stage 1 or equivalent turbo kit.

My car is running like a bag of poo with a 3" intake so I guess you can only do 2.5" with the maf. The cruising a/f are okay just when I let off the gas it chokes out and stalls.

Does anyone have a base map for the fi/c with a 3" intake ? I am not sure if the base map I have for my fi/c has the maf clamped

Doubt it.

good write up. but put some pants on, haha

good write up. but put some pants on, haha

:crazy:

I am looking to pick up a zpi stage zero kit if any one is willing to sell theres

You can make one just as easy, instead of waiting for someone to sale.

how, I can't find any one that sells a maifold for the 16g turbo like the zpi kit uses

Full Race should still sell them. Really, build your own log manifold, and just have a mitsu flange on it to fit a 16, 18, or 20G. Also, Todd has a ZPI replacement manifold (but his shipping is backed up, so don't know when you would get it after you ordered).

or you could do a atp manidold / down pipe and a t25 turbo or maybe a t28 internally gated which should spool up pretty fast. then you just need to get a atp intake and make a custom charge pipe.

no, I am all set, I am going to roll zpi, 16g status, it looks like what I like the best, I have 90% of the parts, just waiting on my paycheck to hit so I can pay todd for some zpi manifolds

LOL - yea, we should keep this thread rolling if only just for finding replacement parts if needed. :lol:

we;; I see your zpi powerd, so you must have had faith in them at one point

Oh yea, not knocking the kit or anything. I had pretty good experiences when ZPI was up and running. Just saying now that they're not around the people that have their kits still should have some kind of resource for compatible parts.

does anyone know what size the oil pressure sensor threadind is? I am going to buy the parts for all the oil feed and return lines but I need to know what size the sensor is so I can but the T for the feed line

get a tappered 1/8 npt t

does anyone have pictures of there vacuum hose hooked up?

ok, I installed my home made stage zero tonight, and have run in to a big problem, my turbo is spooling and functioning properly, but I dont belive I am making any boost, any one else have this problem, I hooked up my vac lines in between my tb and evap block but I my boost gauge is reading at 0 psi at full throttle, plus the a/f is giving a good reading ...any help would be great in getting this working

thanks

Troy

How did you hook up the waste gate vac lines ? and what spring do you have in it.

what does your boost gauge read at idle?

at idol, 20 pis vac, I hooked up the wg, bov, and boost gauge all off of the vac line that runs from the tb to the evap block, I think I am going to re-run them off of the brake booster, any input, is that better?

i get 15 at idle...20 when decelerating in gear...

those were supposed to be negative numbers, by the way.

yeah, vac, not boost

just got done installing my second zpi kit tonight, long story sold the first one because it wasn't running right, then last week bought a custom stage 0.5 for a smokin deal. I now understand why everyone loves these kits, hearing the hks blowoff, I just can't explain it... I love this kit!!!!!

mine was great for the first 4 months. then it was a POS

Just for referance, how many pounds can be ran on a stage 0.5 with out any managment??? I installing a boost controller and am putting in the 3 pound spring, so just need a heads up on what I can run

same as a stage 0.

yeah, the ,5 is the stage 0 just with tune

dont run more than 5 psi with bigger injectors.. a couple lbs isnt worth blowing your motor

0.5 could mean a wide range of things. I would call it a 0.5 if it had an intercooler. So, what exactly is running on your kit.


And HOLY Thread resurrection.

dont run more than 5 psi without bigger injectors.. a couple lbs isnt worth blowing your motor

It has a huge intercooler and I run a tial 38 wg and a hks bov

do you have bigger injectors with a computer?

Not yet, that's why its a stage 0.5, if I did it would be a stage 1, but that's why I asked, because I am not running any management yet, I am having trouble locating some good 550 injectors...long story. But - am setting up my boost controller, so I put the small yellow spring in my wastegate, I thinl its 3.75 pounds, but I want to up the boost to what I can run until I get the emanage and injectors in.

Ok that being saidn didn't the og zpi stage 0 run 6 pounds out of the box, and isnkt true that I can run like 6\7 pounds due to the fact that I use only vp 100 octane and colder plugs.

dude, get a tial red spring its 5.8psi and thats perfect for untunned its what i ran, and then when u get tuned u can up it to 7 or 8, i say use the red because if u use the yellow u can only get 6psi outta that spring on a boostcontroller because its never a good ideal to double the wastgate boost

good idea

dude, get a tial red spring its 5.8psi and thats perfect for untunned its what i ran, and then when u get tuned u can up it to 7 or 8, i say use the red because if u use the yellow u can only get 6psi outta that spring on a boostcontroller because its never a good ideal to double the wastgate boost



How you figure that?

hmm ... im running a red spring ..but 10 psi.. and its fine

dude, get a tial red spring its 5.8psi and thats perfect for untunned its what i ran, and then when u get tuned u can up it to 7 or 8, i say use the red because if u use the yellow u can only get 6psi outta that spring on a boostcontroller because its never a good ideal to double the wastgate boost



How you figure that?

travis its not reccomended to go over double the spring rate ie: 3psi spring x2=6

nice write up!

dude, get a tial red spring its 5.8psi and thats perfect for untunned its what i ran, and then when u get tuned u can up it to 7 or 8, i say use the red because if u use the yellow u can only get 6psi outta that spring on a boostcontroller because its never a good ideal to double the wastgate boost



How you figure that?

travis its not reccomended to go over double the spring rate ie: 3psi spring x2=6


Says who? Never heard that before. Got links on information?

Cause as far as I know, a boost controller has nothing to do with the spring in the wg, besides when you turn the bc off the lowest boost you can run would be that of the spring in the wg. So, I need information with a scientific explanation as to why a bc at X amount of boost over the wg spring is going to do anything to the wg or the wg spring itself.

I have a manual bc. Bleed type, meaning, it bleeds off (vents) the pressure to allow the car to see more boost. So, when the WG opens up, it opens up when it sees it's boost pressure according to the spring (9 lb spring). So, whether I'm running 10 PSI, or 30 PSI, the WG opens when it hits 9 PSI of pressure.

dude, get a tial red spring its 5.8psi and thats perfect for untunned its what i ran, and then when u get tuned u can up it to 7 or 8, i say use the red because if u use the yellow u can only get 6psi outta that spring on a boostcontroller because its never a good ideal to double the wastgate boost



How you figure that?

travis its not reccomended to go over double the spring rate ie: 3psi spring x2=6


Says who? Never heard that before. Got links on information?

Cause as far as I know, a boost controller has nothing to do with the spring in the wg, besides when you turn the bc off the lowest boost you can run would be that of the spring in the wg. So, I need information with a scientific explanation as to why a bc at X amount of boost over the wg spring is going to do anything to the wg or the wg spring itself.

I have a manual bc. Bleed type, meaning, it bleeds off (vents) the pressure to allow the car to see more boost. So, when the WG opens up, it opens up when it sees it's boost pressure according to the spring (9 lb spring). So, whether I'm running 10 PSI, or 30 PSI, the WG opens when it hits 9 PSI of pressure.


normal your right.. with the boost controller turned the whole way down, it does run the default setting. But i am running about 6 feet or so of vaccumm line so its mounted inside the car, and if i turn it down the whole way.. it runs like 2 psi instead of the default 5. I really dont know why besides the fact that its running through so much line.

normal your right.. with the boost controller turned the whole way down, it does run the default setting. But i am running about 6 feet or so of vaccumm line so its mounted inside the car, and if i turn it down the whole way.. it runs like 2 psi instead of the default 5. I really dont know why besides the fact that its running through so much line.



Now THAT I'm pretty sure is not a good thing to do. It's a manual bC, stop being lazy and put it in the engine bay where is should be. That much line bro and it being just a manual bc, I can not be sure you are seeing accurate boost readings.

That's kinda scary actually.

rhythmnsmoke is correct about the wastegate and boost controller being independant once wastegage pressure is reached.

As for your boost controller being on 5' of line... that shoud really be put in the engine bay before it causes problems!

its reading accurate boost levels.. the gauge has its own line tapped into the intake manifold, but ive seen many people run them inside. Its a turbonetics controller and theres no way or knowing how much your increasing or decreasing the boost without watching the boost gauge. thats why its inside.

its reading accurate boost levels.. the gauge has its own line tapped into the intake manifold, but ive seen many people run them inside. Its a turbonetics controller and theres no way or knowing how much your increasing or decreasing the boost without watching the boost gauge. thats why its inside.


Yes there is. You go from the close position and start opening up. The instruction manual tells you how many turns it takes to go 1 PSI. I have the TurboXS. Instructions say to have it fully closed, make 3 initial full turns, and after that ever full turn is 1 PSI.



normal your right.. with the boost controller turned the whole way down, it does run the default setting. But i am running about 6 feet or so of vaccumm line so its mounted inside the car, and if i turn it down the whole way.. it runs like 2 psi instead of the default 5. I really dont know why besides the fact that its running through so much line.


Don't sound to accurate to me. I'm just going by what you wrote.

yeah i like the turbXS controller alot better. This one said to watch the boost gauge. I even called and double checked. It is very sensitive

^^yeah, that's a bit unsafe to not have some kinda control factor.

yeah i agree but thats why its mounted inside.. and it has a lock features so once you reach the boost you want, it locks in place.. i still rather have the turboxs one.

OK, I just went through this entire thread ~ eyes are a little glazed over from all of the info.

One topic I didn't see covered was if the TRD flash could be used to run the stage 0 kit with the 550 injectors @ 6 PSI. If this seems like a stupid question to you, please figure out a way to say why in a constructive manner. I am looking to learn not get in a thread war.

OK, I just went through this entire thread ~ eyes are a little glazed over from all of the info.

One topic I didn't see covered was if the TRD flash could be used to run the stage 0 kit with the 550 injectors @ 6 PSI. If this seems like a stupid question to you, please figure out a way to say why in a constructive manner. I am looking to learn not get in a thread war.

Short answer: The TRD flash won't work for turbos.

Explanation: When you look at a graph of boost vs. RPM, a supercharger gives pretty much linear boost. At low RPM's, you have low boost, at mid-RPM's, you have medium boost, and at high RPM's, you have high boost. With a turbo, depending on the load, you can have high boost at low to mid RPM's and you can also have low boost at high RPM's. Because of that, you need a totally different tune. If you are running the TRD flash and hit full boost early in the middle of the RPM range, you'll be running really lean and could cause bad things to happen to your engine.

I hope that helps.

Short answer: The TRD flash won't work for turbos.

Explanation: When you look at a graph of boost vs. RPM, a supercharger gives pretty much linear boost. At low RPM's, you have low boost, at mid-RPM's, you have medium boost, and at high RPM's, you have high boost. With a turbo, depending on the load, you can have high boost at low to mid RPM's and you can also have low boost at high RPM's. Because of that, you need a totally different tune. If you are running the TRD flash and hit full boost early in the middle of the RPM range, you'll be running really lean and could cause bad things to happen to your engine.

I hope that helps.

Yes, this is very helpful - thanks for the breakdown - I had read in another thread about a custom 'turbo kit' that was using the TRD flash for fuel management. It sounded a little odd and I wanted to know more. THanks.

I am sure I will be posting more questions here as I get my ZPI kit setup and installed.