My tc is about to hit 30k, so it's time for my first tune-up!

Scion wants to lube a tube and stick it in my rear for a tune-up ($550.00), so I'm going to do it myself.

Checklist:

-Spark plugs (no reason for wires, because our motors use coil packs)
-Flush and fill tranny/radiator fluid/washer fluid
-Have belts tightened
-Rotate wheels
-Change pads/rotate rotors (purchased the Axxis Deluxe pads last night from StopTech)
-Oil change/change filter
-No reason for a air filter change, because I just purchased the Injen CAI and the filter on it is new

Am I missing anything?

http://m2hosting.net/files/2/30k.gif

I wouldnt change the engine coolant. Its good up till 100,000 miles, just make sure its full.

Awesome, thanks man. I'll even save more $ now.

super long life coolant, dont rec. to change it at 30k
i wouldn't change the plugs, but thats your call. if they are burnt, then do it
but i have yet to do a 30k on a tC and replace plugs

While you're working, throw in a charcoal cabin filter if you haven't... good idea.

I just hit 30k as well. How do you change the tranny fluid?

I just got some Bosch Plat. (pre-gapped), so it won't take but a few min. *shrug*

I want to run the Injen from SRI to CAI this weekend hopefully. I feel like I lost a little bit of torque running SRI.

I'm happy to hear that our motors don't require much to maintain.

My dealer has told me the plugs are rated for 120k and the coolant for 90k... aside from oil change, tire rotation, and inspections, I'd add on an induction service to clean up any carbon deposits

My dealer has told me the plugs are rated for 120k and the coolant for 90k... aside from oil change, tire rotation, and inspections, I'd add on an induction service to clean up any carbon deposits

THANK YOU
finally, someone agrees with me

i wouldn't go 90k without changing the coolant, but thats just me
also, i wouldnt' go 120k on the plugs either

i wouldn't go 90k without changing the coolant, but thats just me
also, i wouldnt' go 120k on the plugs either

neither would I, especially if I were actually running some real power mods like S/C or T/C :P

the spark plugs are easy enough to check on to see if they're wearing away, but how can you really measure coolant life?

Coolant is measured with a PH test and concentration test I believe. You could always call up the dealer and ask to speak t a mechanic for a few minutes. They will be able to point you in the right direction.

^^^yup
check the temp,color

techs usually only rec. based on that

Looks like I'll be returning the plugs tomorrow. Thanks alot guys :)

I'm going to change the stocks pads to the Axxis pads, because I feel the stock pads blow =/

That's just me though :P

I wouldnt go 120k on the plugs, but I would go way over 30k, and would NEVER swap out these for Bosch plugs.. a big step down in quality. The car comes with some the best and long lasting plugs out, Denso Iridium.

So the tC does come with Iridiums stock? I'm DEF. going to return the plugs I got tomorrow.

Me=Need to do more research about our motors :P

^^ Thats why they reccomend such a long change interval. Iridium is the most corrosion resistant material we know of. Very long lasting plugs.

yes, I know someone that works for Denso and I inquired about getting some Denso Iridiums and he called me back the next day to tell me the plug he could offer are worse than the ones in the car already.

He even told me that if I ever do need plugs, he couldn't get them anyway, I would have to go to the dealership.

Also, I believe I read in the manual that the tranny fluid doesn't have to be changed till 50k. I don't remember, but I do remember that I had a long time till I even had to think about doing it. I had to swap anyway at 12k b/c of the flywheel and clutch additions, but check the manual on the tranny fluid. You might not have to change it anyway.

I just hit 30k as well. How do you change the tranny fluid?

i had to do this on my other car, its something i would recomend getting flushed, usually a service shop will do it for like 100.00 they hook it to a machine and run chemical through it to really clean it out, then put new fluid in.

im not sure if you can get a device to DIY, i have always had it done...

every 15k, i rec. to drain/fill tranny fluid
and every 30k to flush it

yes, I know someone that works for Denso and I inquired about getting some Denso Iridiums and he called me back the next day to tell me the plug he could offer are worse than the ones in the car already.

He even told me that if I ever do need plugs, he couldn't get them anyway, I would have to go to the dealership.

Also, I believe I read in the manual that the tranny fluid doesn't have to be changed till 50k. I don't remember, but I do remember that I had a long time till I even had to think about doing it. I had to swap anyway at 12k b/c of the flywheel and clutch additions, but check the manual on the tranny fluid. You might not have to change it anyway.

Yep, and based on others I have seen they will run about $15 - $20 a pop to replace.. so another reason not to over-change them :P

My tc is about to hit 30k, so it's time for my first tune-up!

Scion wants to lube a tube and stick it in my rear for a tune-up ($550.00), so I'm going to do it myself.

Checklist:

-Spark plugs (no reason for wires, because our motors use coil packs)
-Flush and fill tranny/radiator fluid/washer fluid
-Have belts tightened
-Rotate wheels
-Change pads/rotate rotors (purchased the Axxis Deluxe pads last night from StopTech)
-Oil change/change filter
-No reason for a air filter change, because I just purchased the Injen CAI and the filter on it is new

Am I missing anything?

The tc's spark plugs are good for 100,000 or 120,000 I can't remember. The radiator fluid is good for 5 years or 100,000 according to our service manual. Why would you flush and fill the washer fluid? The transmission fluid could need change really easy to do and you can get synthetic fluid for 24.00 for three quarts since ours takes 2.5. Synthetic oil change if done yourself with mobil will cost about 27.00. Pads only need changed if they are warn out or you just want more performance. Our drive belts have a automatic tentioner. So your dealer wants to charge you 550.00 for maybe 52.00 in parts and maybe an hours worth of work!

yeah the dealer really sticks it to you on those things. They wanted to charge me $300 to do the $15000 mile "service" I told them I do my own service and that I wold do that "$300" 15 minute service myself :rofl:

$300 for 15k???

it does vary from dealer to dealer, but thats a lil high, IMO

we are $220, thats after taxes + shop supplies

if you can do the service yourself, go with that. but alot of my Scion customers dont have the know how

i would not go 120k without doing the plugs, thats alil insane, i dont care what that manual says. same thing goes for the coolant, 90k is way too long

One more minor correction that I saw.. just FYI. All newer standard electronic ignition vehicles use coil packs. A coil pack is simply the solid state version of the distributer.

Our cars use coil on plug ignition, so there is no "coil pack". There is a separate coil sitting on each plug.

You were still correct in that there is no need to change the plug wires, I think it was just semantics.

The ignition system in this car is pretty well set up. It needs little maintenance and is one of the better setups out there. This is why I dont buy into the bosch platinums and certainly not anything Nology (I would never put thier parts on ANY car though). They make a standard coil pack conversion for many cars... which serves two purposes : a) to set you back about 10 years in technology and b) to make you buy thier "hot wires" (aka JUNK). So you shouldnt need to worry about replacing any components of the ignition system for quite some time. I will probably keep an eye on my plugs, and maybe change them at 80k.

And the person above was dead on about the belts and other items they mentioned. I would just go somehwere and have them rotate the tires (if you dont want to do it yourself) and change the oil. I wouldnt touch the brakes either unless you are just swapping to different pads or you have been very hard on them. Mine are fine after 31k.

$300 for 15k???

it does vary from dealer to dealer, but thats a lil high, IMO

we are $220, thats after taxes + shop supplies

if you can do the service yourself, go with that. but alot of my Scion customers dont have the know how

i would not go 120k without doing the plugs, thats alil insane, i dont care what that manual says. same thing goes for the coolant, 90k is way too long

And if anyone knew what the "lubrication" and "checking torque" parts included, they would even laugh at $220. The whole thing can be done in the time you are waiting for the oil to drain. :P

I wouldnt go that long either on the coolant. I will replace mine at probably 40k, maybe even this summer which will be more like 33k.

And to all of those replacing thier own coolant. Use the toyota pre-mix, or if you absolutely wont use it, USE BOTTLED DISTILLED WATER!!!! I mix any coolant I buy for any car with the distilled water you can buy at the store in gallon jugs. Distilled water has very low conductivity, and does not promote electrolysis which can kill aluminum cooling system parts (ask around about the people who go through heater core after heater core on soe GM's untill they find a bad ground causing it... ) like tap water. Also, distilled water does not contain all the minerals that tap water does, which build up over time.

I am sure most of you have heard this, but I know a lot have not if the are just starting to maintain their own cars.

we dont go off of toyota/scions owners manual, that includes almost nothing in the 15k. $220 for LOF,rotate,and to torque some bolts is retarded, i agree.
the services vary from dealer to dealer

we toss in clean/adjust of rear brakes,air filter replacement,battery service,complete electrical and DTC test and road test

to you $220 for that is :rofl: , to some customers they feel its worth the money

^^ It still depends on the car. The tC has a maintenance free battery and rear disk brakes, so those two are out. The electrical and DTC test takes checking charging voltage and running a code check, which takes less than 10 minutes tops. Granted a lot of customers dont have a tool to do this or know how. But in the above all that is needed on the tC is an air filter, road test and 10 minutes of checks.

Dont take me wrong, I am not arguing or bashing, just stating why a lot of people laugh at or get upset at what the service mgrs try to sell them.

i understand that, not saying you are bashing.
i can see where you are coming from, from your point of view.
you would be surprised at how many batteries have corrosion on the terminals, which is why we perform the battery service
we adjust the parking brake on the tC, since it has disc brakes

makes sense.. sorry to bust your b@!!s :P You seem like a pretty good guy.. so I feel you can handle it here and there :D

makes sense.. sorry to bust your b@!!s :P You seem like a pretty good guy.. so I feel you can handle it here and there :D

ive been dealing with a**hole customers for over 5years, i can take it
and seein as how im a tool myself, i should be able to. if you can't take it, dont dish it out

im not here to rob customers of there money, i usually pick out the things needed that are in the service and save a few dollars on their part.
i COULD gank all their money in one service, but then i get no return service from them and they tell all their friends that we are too high priced.

hey Fellas, don't mean to hijack this thread but I got a question regarding changing your own coolant. Although I own an xA, correct me if I'm wrong, but don't all Toyota/Scion vehicles use a pink colored coolant? I've always thought they were suppose to be green. Is it ok to use the standard green anti-freeze? A cousin of mine owns a 2000 VW Jetta which uses pink coolant and was told by the dealer that there is a difference between the pink and green one. I dunno if anyone can confirm this. I know that I might not have used the best example, but I just don't want to have any warranty problems with my xA should anything pop up down the line.

engifineer, is the toyota premix something I can just pick up at the service dept off the shelf? As I understand, the toyota coolant is suppose to be super long life, any brand in Autozone or Pepboys that you can recommend that can offer the same? If not, would changing it on a yearly basis be just as good for the car?

/\/\

Sorry, I meant to say reddish color coolant, not pink. Dunno why I got confused. LOL

yes, red/pink color
nothing else

the green is more of a universal type coolant, found on most domestic cars
im not going to go into detail, but i do not rec. anything other than toyota parts/fluids in your car

Correct, the green coolant is very generic. mainly for older vehicles. The red is a dexcool type of coolant that is less prone to electrolisis and less likely to corrode alluminim parts. It also has lubricating properties and is considered a longer life coolant. However all fluids do break down or loose there ability to protect over time. So, every 30k or so should be fine. Spend the few extra bucks and get the fluid that was designed for your car.

So, the brands that sell the green coolant should also have the reddish dexcool type coolant as well? I know people recommend the toyota brand one, but isn't there a aftermarket brand that is just as safe?

Also, in terms of the steps involved in changing the coolant such as mixing with distilled water for 50/50 ratio still apply with the dexcool type coolant?

Thanks to all for the great answers.

but it str8 from toyota
if the container doesn't say Toyota, i dont care what color, dont stick it in

You got the 50/50 right, but I wouldn't use an aftermarket fluid. I would spend the few extra bucks and use what was meant for your car, also be aware that mixing different compositions of coolant can cause problems, Ive seen the worst. Just break down and buy the right fluid, why are you wanting to go "aftermarket"? If your still adamant about switching, make sure you flush every drop of one before you switch to another......and then keep us posted on the mileage when you need a water pump or start to have a coolant leak, car running hotter than normal etc...you can be a guinney pig for aftermarket coolant......lol
JUST BUY THE TOYOTA BRAND.....pay now or pay later

Hell no I won't be the guinea pig. I had posted my question hoping someone had already tried this. LOL :P

But seriously, if I get the authentic Toyota OEM coolant, it is already mixed right? No need for measuring distilled water and such?

I've heard great things about Redline Oil's Waterwetter coolant additive. Do you guys think it'd be alright to add some of that in there? It's suppose to help keep the temp down some more. Only problem is that it "attaches" itself to the water molecules (or something along those lines), but if the Toyota coolant is a premix then there's no water that needs to be added.

The toyota stuff I think is premixed with distilled water, which by the way is the ONLY thing you should ever use to mix. Additives are crap 99% of the time , that goes for just about every additive you can find for the car. And just so you know, the car is designed to run at a certain temperature for emission and performance reasons, making it run cooler is many times worse. There is no reason to try to make the engine run cooler than factory spec.

As far a other dexcools, the orange stuff used in GMs is about a thousand times worse than green. I have seen multipe GMs with it under 40k miles with completely rusted and rotted out cooling systems. I have run plain green coolant with distilled water in my 96 saturn the whole time I have had it. 167,000 miles and my cooling system is as clean as day 1. I change it about every 30k or so.

Just buyt the toyota stuff and change it out when the book says and you will be fine. Add the additives to the trash can :P

Isn't the pink coolant Toyota's version of Dexcool?

I know Dexcool has a bad name, and is blamed for the lots of problems, especially with the 3400's, but I always thought it was because people thought 100k meant "don't have to ever look under the hood". That and a lot of the 3400's came from the factory with bad LIM gaskets.

Bottom line, change it every 30k, if you wait until 100k your just asking for trouble.

Thanks for all the great responses. But just curious, there is no real way to know if the coolant is bad is there? As in does the darker the red means its wearing out and bright red or pink means its fine? Or is coolant one of those fluids where it no longer adequately protects,but yet it still looks like it just like it came straight from a fresh bottle. Sorry if my question sounds dumb, but I really don't know much about coolant.

yeah, I hate cooling systems....I can rebuild an engine, but I have a hard time diagnosing cooling problems and getting them to not leak...

I do all my maintenance myself...which may be occurring a little more often now........

http://x402.putfile.com/4/11720481540-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=4/11720481540.jpg&s=x402)

:D

I use SEAFOAM. this is the good stuff, it cleans out your engine causing smoother driving and idle. i use 2 cans of it before and after my oil (mobil1) change.

unlike other fuel injector cleaners that is mixed with several chemicals, SEAFOAM is 100% petroleum which is the main fast active ingredient to clean everything. also all mechanics use it too; youll spend 60 bucks on a fuelsystemclean at the shop and all they do is use seafoam on their machines.

SEAFOAM cleans everything
* Cleans injectors
* Adds lubricity
* Anti-gel
* Cleans crankcase
* Restores power
* Removes moisture
* Cleans carbon
* Stabilizes fuel
* Diesel fuel conditioner
* Stabilizes fuel
* Cleans carburetor
* Cleans carbon
* Removes moisture
* Assures fast starts
* Frees sticky rings
* Restores power
* Upper cylinder lube
* Smooths rough idle


i recommend seafoam to everyone!

I still prefere BG44K. I know a lot of shops that will only use it, and have used it for quite a while. I think though you still have to get it through a shop that sells it though. That stuff has amazed me since the first time I used it.

Seafoam is pretty good stuff. Makes one hell of a cloud though if you run it through the vac system while it is running, then shut it off and let it sit. That first restart is poisonous to the community :D

mmmm, BG44K
BGs got the greatest stuff ever

I just hit 30,045 today, got to do the tune up this weekend. Harr Toyota in Worcester, MA where I bought it charges $325 for the 30k tune up, is that normal?

Here's the list of what it covers:
-Change oil and filer
-Install MOC Premium Engine Protection
-Check/top off transmission, brkae and power steering and washer fluids
-Check and adjust tire pressures
-Rotate tires
-Check operation of all lights, horn and wipers
-Check exhaust system
-Inspect all hoeses, belts and filters
-Inspect suspension and steering systems
-Inspect breaks (including cleaning, and adjust rear brakes)
-Repack rear wear bearing
-Check cooling system operation
-Flush cooling system
-Replace non-platinum spark plugs
-check air conditioner operation
-clean and tighten battery terminals
-replace fuel filter (when applicable)
-replace PCV valve
-inspect distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires
-Check emissions system
-Set engine specifications
-Install MOC Fuel System Cleaner

Also recommended at this time:
-4 wheel alignment......$89.95
-4 wheel balance.........$59.90
-Fuel system cleaning.$89.95

I should be able to do most of this myself right with the manuel? I'm not sure where to find the PCV valve is though.....maybe I'll pick up some BG44k or seafoam.....

-Change oil and filer - $25 dollar job at most
-Install MOC Premium Engine Protection Not sure completely, but most likely and additive you dont need in a well maintained engine, or pouring a $10 bottle of cleaner in the tank
-Check/top off transmission, brake and power steering and washer fluids[ If you have no leak.. a 5 min job and most likely no fluid added. Something you normally would check yourself
-Check and adjust tire pressures Again, something you can simply (and should) check yourself. 5 min and no materials
-Rotate tires 10 min on a lift
-Check operation of all lights, horn and wipers Heh.. they turn them on and look at them
-Check exhaust system Visual inspection most likely
-Inspect all hoeses, belts and filters Again, easy visual inspection
-Inspect suspension and steering systems Check for play and noises. Quick drive and inspection
-Inspect breaks (including cleaning, and adjust rear brakes) Visually inspect while they already have the wheels off. Disc brakes, so no reason to clean anything or adjust anything except MAYBE the park brake
-Repack rear wear bearing Most likely not done
-Check cooling system operation Start car.. let run.. thats it.
-Flush cooling system Open drain, run clean water through it while running to flush, add coolant.
-Replace non-platinum spark plugs Not done, we have iridium plugs that dont get replaced for about 120k
-check air conditioner operation Start, turn on AC, make sure it is cooling
-clean and tighten battery terminals5 min tops
-replace fuel filter (when applicable) In the tank Meaning they most likely left it alone[
-replace PCV valve Around a $5 part most likely, 5 min replacement[
-inspect distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires Electronic ignition, no distributor. Coil on plug ignition so they did nothing but look at it if anything.
-Check emissions system Not sure how they checked it. Possibly stuck a probe in the pipe. Quick check
-Set engine specifications ?? Most likely nothing[
-Install MOC Fuel System Cleaner[Additive, pour in

Also recommended at this time:
-4 wheel alignment......$89.95
-4 wheel balance.........$59.90
-Fuel system cleaning.$89.95

Dont do the fuel system cleaning. A good cleaner (which they said they are doing in the above anyway) is all you need if anything at all. BG44k is around $15 a can.

How are your tires wearing? If they wear nice and even, skip the alignment unless you have reason to believe you need it. Are your tires out of balance? If not, then absolutely no reason at all to do that.

Dealerships make money selling you service you dont need most of the time, and then charging you a ton of labor to do it. For example, out of the items they actually do from the above, they probably have your car for about an hour and spend less than $50 in parts. Hardly worth over $300. Then they are reccomending you doing the last three things that are not needed unless you have an issue.

Here is a good example, my saturn has never had an alignment.. ever, in 169000 miles. Doesnt need one. Drives and wears perfectly. If your tires are out of balance, you will know it. And before I hear the comment that for some reason I begin hearing lately about alignment (probably propogated by a shop trying to make money), camber DOES cause uneven wear. Some shops try to tell you it can be off without causing wear.. but hurts the mileage, performance, etc. Untrue.

So yes, do the parts you need yourself and save yourself the money. The dealer tried to hit me for over 200 for the 15k service on my last free oil change (the only reason I would ever take my car anywhere.. free oil change). They listed all the things I "needed".. when I crossed 90% of the list off cause it did not apply to my car.. and they realized I knew what I was talking about, the guy stopped talking, handed my keys and said goodbye. :rofl:

While you're working, throw in a charcoal cabin filter if you haven't... good idea.

where do they sell these at?

engifineer, once again you are the enfin' man!! thanks again buddy!!

ok so I did everything you said, minus flushing the cooling system. Is there a DIY on here ? I found one in the Tech section for an older lexus, is that pretty much all I need to know?

isn't our coolant good for 100,000 miles? at least thats what it says when i pop my hood on my 07.

I was told that too, but I was also told not to put too much faith in it, and to change it out every 30k just to error on the side of caution.... I'm just not familiar with an easy way to do it

if you are replacing the tranny cooler, do you need to flush or drain the fluid?

i'd assume so... once you drain it, can you just pour in some new synthetic fluid too? or should you flush out the lines completely?

I just hit 30k as well. How do you change the tranny fluid?


I know this is off the topic and a little late as well, but i couldn't help it. You have a Turbonetics Kit on your tC and you don't know how to change the gear box oil. Sorry, i just thought that was pretty funny. :rofl:

Wow, this post helps a lot. Won't be buying dealer service until I need a tranny flush. Could someone like engifineer post a list of your recommended changes and such for 15k and 30k? I think that would be really helpful.

Fuel System/Deposit Cleaner can be done with Seafoam Deep Creep for around $7 for 2 treatments. Awesome stuff, easy to use. Spray half a can in a vac hose while car is running, but don't let it stall. Turn car off, let it sit for an hour. Then drive somewhere where the people won't mind the billowing smoke!