Hi, this is my first how to, bear with me....

Ingredients:
T-Tap (came with radar)
Inline Fuse (came with radar)
Radar (a Valentine V1 in my case)
Flat head screwdriver
Pliers
Small wrench 3/8" size. The shorter the better. I used the one below because it was easier to fit, i think it came with some of that "assemble yourself" furniture.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12817352717.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12817352717.jpg&s=f5)

Pop off the from dome light. To do this, pry it out with the screwdriver where the blue circle is. Then comes the hard part. Pulling the rest of the thing out requires a bit or force. Pry it from the headliner where the blue mark is and pulling at the green mark it will eventually pop out. Dont go to crazy because there is wiring up there that you can pull out too, so as soon as it gives try to let go.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12817354616.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12817354616.jpg&s=f5)

Once you unplug it will look as below. There are three plugs that keep it in place, one of them, the one towards the rear of the car of this panel came out with the panel, the two that are located at the red marks remained. The pic below shows one i took out and the other still in the metal.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12817360544.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12817360544.jpg&s=f5)

Take the plug out carefully, as you still need it to put this back in. I used the screwdriver to pry it out of there.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12817361938.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12817361938.jpg&s=f5)

Just clip the plug back into is place on the back of the sunroof control and dome light panel.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12817363634.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12817363634.jpg&s=f5)

You already took out a small plug from the panel, but there is another large one that is flat against the roof, take that out as well. We will be tapping the orange wire from the big plug. You will have to peel back a little of the tape.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12817365425.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12817365425.jpg&s=f5)

I used a trusty voltmeter from the communist days of Russia, the orange wire is only on when the iginition is on, so its all good.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12817504668.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12817504668.jpg&s=f5)

Now its time to get the ground. I found this bolt/nut thing in there, marked in red. It is 3/8" and this picture was taken from the passenger side looking up towards the drivers side.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12821550669.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12821550669.jpg&s=f5)

Slip the ground wire in there and tighten it down again. Try to make it so that the wire leads off towards the front of the car, this will help with packing the wires later.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12821552132.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12821552132.jpg&s=f5)

Pull the large connector down a bit and pull back the tape that protects all the wires. Isolate the orange wire and place the T-Tap under it.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12821553498.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12821553498.jpg&s=f5)

Close the T-Tap with your fingers, check to make sure that the orange wire is still in the same place and then click it shut using a pair of pliers.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12821554977.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12821554977.jpg&s=f5)

The ground wire is connected already, and you are now ready to plug the 12V wire into the t-tap. Turn on your ignition and see if the radar turns on.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12822003334.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12822003334.jpg&s=f5)

Hopefully everything is good, so now its time to tuck away all that wiring. Connect the large connector to its original position first. Now on to the wires... I bundled all the wires and tucked them towards the front of the car, on top of the mirror. My wires connected to some jack/fuse thing (The roundish black thing on the drivers side of the panel whole) and i put that towards the driviers side of the car.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12822004631.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12822004631.jpg&s=f5)

I taped the wires into a compact little bundle to make it a little cleaner up there, i didnt not want them getting in the way of the panel when i put it back.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12822012010.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12822012010.jpg&s=f5)

The jack/fuse thing had a velcro sticker on the back so i descided to secure it with the included sticky pad/velcro to the top of the roof in a snug position so that it doesnt cause a rattle later on.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12822014554.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12822014554.jpg&s=f5)

And here is a shot of everything tucked away.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12822010569.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12822010569.jpg&s=f5)

I then plugged in the sunroof/dome light panel, turned the ignition on, and tested the lights and the sunroof. It was a this point that i sh** myself because the lights worked, the radar worked but the sunroof did not respond. Then i remembered to reset the sunroof, so i pressed and held Close for 5 or so seconds. It made some sunroof motor noises and worked like a charm. The wire that is the actual power to the radar i just shoved forward and it popped out from under the headline at the windshield, no problems at all.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12822020683.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12822020683.jpg&s=f5)

I then popped the console back in. It took a few good hits and pounds, just make sure to line up those plugs first.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12822022888.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12822022888.jpg&s=f5)
I popped in the actual lights cover and tested one more time.

Here are some pics of the final results.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12822025812.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12822025812.jpg&s=f5)
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12822032637.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12822032637.jpg&s=f5)
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/radar_hardwire/12822034525.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/12822034525.jpg&s=f5)

Hope this helps. I know there are posts that cover some of this and some of that, but i just tried to tie it all together in to something detailed.


Edited By: Kaeon May 12th 2006
- Images moved to scionlife database
- Added to tech section.

Nice work..

Nice How-To. I figured it would be more hidden than that, but I guess it works. If a cop pulls you over though, and he sees the detector...they will more than likely be harder on you. If I get a detector, I either want it hidden or able to be removed very quickly so it can be thrown under a seat. Just my .02

The valentine needs to be low enough to see out the rear, its pretty easy to remove though. The good thing is that the power wire looks like a netowork cable so it doesnt scream RADAR

AWESOME thanks for the help

>>>Freakin' dope... :ponder:

thanks for the write-up, I've been putting off hard-wiring my valentine because I transfer it daily from my work car to my car but looks like I'd still be able to remove it just as easily.

BTW - you should look into getting a tint strip for the top of the car's windshield to block it even farther from sight, the darker the better. The detector's sensor MUST be lower than the tint strip though, and it would still be low enough to see out the front and the rear, and with a dark enough bar all you would see is the detector's sensor popping out of the bottom and nothing else. (know from experience)

pictures dont' work O.o

pictures dont' work O.o

Pics are there, its your comp. or proxy or something....Others see them, i just double checked.

nice man. is the range good with the valentine. my friend got one for his b day but i never was driving with it just seen it.

o yeah where did you get it from? how much?

range? only the best

http://www.radarbusters.com/support/product-tests/2.asp

https://store.valentine1.com/store/

Well i haven't gon on the open roads with it yet, but around the city is has been really good at weeding out all sorts of crap. My gf got it for me as a new car/b-day gift so i dont know, but the window i "accidentally" left open on her computer was to the valentine website as linked by otocan ( https://store.valentine1.com/store/ ). I think thats the only place you can buy them officially, not sure. Its really great. I swear by the arrows, the direction indicator and the bogey counter are great.

Just a side note. I have a Valentine 1 in my IS350, and I was moving it between the Scion and my IS for a while.

It started to bug me, so I went out and started searching for a cheapy replacement. - I stumbled upon the Bel Express 795. (It's the cheap cheap Bel radar - has comparable range to some more expensive radar detectors, but nothing close to the V1).

In any case, I found the Bel Express 795 at Radio Shack for $59.00 (On clearance). Checked the reviews, decided to buy it. - The power connector on the Bel is a perfect match for the Valentine 1 Hardwire kit.

I just unplugged my V1, and threw the Bel 795 right in it's place.

I pretty much did exactly what was described in this thread, except I chopped the fuse off of my V1 hardwire kit and soldered my connections instead of using the taps. (The sunroof already has a fuse, so if the V1 wire shorts, it'll blow the fuse for the sunroof).

-Brian

IMHO, Radar detectors are not worth the money. They only tell you when Radar is being used. By the time it lets you know Radar is being used, guess what, it's to late. Cops are trained to shoot the Radar within only enough time to read the cars speed. They don't sit there and hold the button, shooting every car in sight. They are trained better than that. Also, when they do pull you over, they are going to be less likely to take it easy on you seeing as you're trying to one up them with a Radar Detector.

Sweet write up!

IMHO, Radar detectors are not worth the money. They only tell you when Radar is being used. By the time it lets you know Radar is being used, guess what, it's to late. Cops are trained to shoot the Radar within only enough time to read the cars speed. They don't sit there and hold the button, shooting every car in sight. They are trained better than that. Also, when they do pull you over, they are going to be less likely to take it easy on you seeing as you're trying to one up them with a Radar Detector.

Radar Detectors require a certain degree of intelligence. You cannot be the fastest car on the road, and cannot be driving wrecklessly or excessively fast.

If someone else is already going 95, you might be able to get away with 85 because they will generally set off the Radar trap first. However, if you are hauling ___ and are the first car to get hit by the radar, then you're right. The Radar Detector won't have enough time to do it's job.

Also, if you are going more than 10 miles an hour above the speed limit, that's usually fast enough for a police unit to visually identify you as going "too fast". (Officer will say in court that "in [his] professional opinion, as a subject matter expert, [you] had visually exceeded the speed limit by at least 5 miles an hour").

Radar Detectors aren't an end all solution to avoiding a speeding ticket, they're just a piece of an entire solution, that, when used together will help reduce the likelihood of a ticket.

-Brian

IMHO, Radar detectors are not worth the money. They only tell you when Radar is being used. By the time it lets you know Radar is being used, guess what, it's to late. Cops are trained to shoot the Radar within only enough time to read the cars speed. They don't sit there and hold the button, shooting every car in sight. They are trained better than that. Also, when they do pull you over, they are going to be less likely to take it easy on you seeing as you're trying to one up them with a Radar Detector.

I know you said it is your opinion, but unless you are speaking from your own experience, that is a very rash and uninformed opinion seeming how you are backing up your opinion with "facts"

Have you ever used a radar gun? a laser gun? how about a good quality detector? I know from experience it takes a minimum of 5-6 seconds to get a radar speed lock depending on range. It can take up to 10 seconds to get a lock. You can watch these videos to see what it takes with a LIDAR gun to get a speed&range lock, which is 5-10x faster than radar guns - http://www.laserveil.com/cool_videos/ - also http://www.radarbusters.com/support/speedlabs-2004/max-range-radar-detector-test.asp has range test results with radar showing over 10 miles of detection on open flats, and radar cannot get an accurate lock farther than 1/2 mile due to beam divergence (actually it's less than 2000ft.) - laser can get locks even farther, but legislature made it illegal to prosecute with laser farther than 1000' due to beam divergence.

Those videos also show the valentine1 in action against laser, and they show WHEN it got the signal compared to when the LIDAR gets the lock. Very informative. And yes, I'm sure if you were pulled over by an officer and he sees a detector in your car, it's not going to help against getting a ticket.

I'm no expert but after being one mark away from suspension , I bought an Escort and have never had a ticket since.

IMHO, Radar detectors are not worth the money. They only tell you when Radar is being used. By the time it lets you know Radar is being used, guess what, it's to late. Cops are trained to shoot the Radar within only enough time to read the cars speed. They don't sit there and hold the button, shooting every car in sight. They are trained better than that. Also, when they do pull you over, they are going to be less likely to take it easy on you seeing as you're trying to one up them with a Radar Detector.

I know you said it is your opinion, but unless you are speaking from your own experience, that is a very rash and uninformed opinion seeming how you are backing up your opinion with "facts"

Have you ever used a radar gun? a laser gun? how about a good quality detector? I know from experience it takes a minimum of 5-6 seconds to get a radar speed lock depending on range. It can take up to 10 seconds to get a lock. You can watch these videos to see what it takes with a LIDAR gun to get a speed&range lock, which is 5-10x faster than radar guns - http://www.laserveil.com/cool_videos/ - also http://www.radarbusters.com/support/speedlabs-2004/max-range-radar-detector-test.asp has range test results with radar showing over 10 miles of detection on open flats, and radar cannot get an accurate lock farther than 1/2 mile due to beam divergence (actually it's less than 2000ft.) - laser can get locks even farther, but legislature made it illegal to prosecute with laser farther than 1000' due to beam divergence.

Those videos also show the valentine1 in action against laser, and they show WHEN it got the signal compared to when the LIDAR gets the lock. Very informative. And yes, I'm sure if you were pulled over by an officer and he sees a detector in your car, it's not going to help against getting a ticket.

Your right i stated my Opinion, and threw a few facts in there . . . THE END ("was not trying to start a debate")

Bottom line is, if anybody is so worried about getting a speeding ticket, don't speed.

Valentine 1 is worth every penny.

when cops are parked to the side of the road they have their radars constantly on, they are not shooting every car that passes by. As soon as one car goes too fast they will be alerted. A good radar detector can detect such speed traps from so far away that cops wouldnt matter to you.

when cops are parked to the side of the road they have their radars constantly on, they are not shooting every car that passes by. As soon as one car goes too fast they will be alerted. A good radar detector can detect such speed traps from so far away that cops wouldnt matter to you. Not in MA, here they use Lidar and aim and shoot at cars that appear to be travelling above the average traffic speeds. They are allowed to tag a car from up to 3700 feet away, which is ridiculously inaccurate, but it is why detectors do work too. If you are back about a mile from where the cop is sitting and he fires the lidar at another car somewhere in front of you, the detector sees that beam and gives a warning. You then have plenty of time to blend in before the cop would aim at you.

^^ true. I was lasered a few weeks ago and I wasn't even paying attention to my speed because I was too busy talking to my girlfriend haha. Even though the V1 notified me, good thing I was only going 5 over.

jeez! to above 2 posts!
i been wanting to get a good radar detector, but im not sure on how well its going to work in my car... i have 5% tint all around...

radar waves are not affected by tint very much, radar passes through objects such as metal, glass, fabric and even your own body fairly easily, it is just reduced and the reflections back are dramatically reduced.

Now laser is a completely different story.

laser is light, pure and simple, just on a certain wavelength. (700-900nm I believe, red beam) and tint absorbs/reflects light, so your 5% tint will absorb/reflect 95% of light hitting the window (theoretically) in addition to the stock window tint all around of about 75-80% so that would make a total VLT of about 3.75%. Meaning if I point a laser at your window, only 3.75% of that laser light is going to pass through (aka hit the detector)

But I sure hope you don't have 5% tint on your windshield....

So in short, YES a radar detector would work, but its laser ability would be severly hindered by your tint from the sides and the rear (radar/laser cannot get a speed reading from the side)

when cops are parked to the side of the road they have their radars constantly on, they are not shooting every car that passes by. As soon as one car goes too fast they will be alerted. A good radar detector can detect such speed traps from so far away that cops wouldnt matter to you.

Umm, no, not here in Cali. They look for cars that appear to be traveling above the Speed Limit, then shoot. Besides that, on any of my local freeways they pace you/a plane paces you.

guys... how much volts does the cobra fuse has??? i lost the fuse of mine so i dont remember the volts???

I am no expert in this but fuses are in amps i believe. Just take at look at the manual of download one from their website.

http://www.cobra.com/pdf/RADAR/ESD9560_manual.pdf

Bottom of page 22.... 1 amp

Can you go more in depth explaining your statement, "(The sunroof already has a fuse, so if the V1 wire shorts, it'll blow the fuse for the sunroof). " Is the wiring shown in this post done after the sunroof fuse? If so, is it possible to do it before the sunroof fuse?

Thanks for your help

Can you go more in depth explaining your statement, "(The sunroof already has a fuse, so if the V1 wire shorts, it'll blow the fuse for the sunroof). " Is the wiring shown in this post done after the sunroof fuse? If so, is it possible to do it before the sunroof fuse?

Thanks for your help

If you hook the V1 hardwire kit directly up to the sunroof (removing the fuse for the V1 kit), it would mean the V1 would be fused at the sunroof fuse (same fuse as the sunroof).

Any event that would have caused the V1 inline fuse to blow, will now cause the sunroof fuse to blow instead.

This is good because you don't want to have to take everything apart again to replace a blown fuse.

Make sense?

-Brian

IMHO, Radar detectors are not worth the money. They only tell you when Radar is being used. By the time it lets you know Radar is being used, guess what, it's to late. Cops are trained to shoot the Radar within only enough time to read the cars speed. They don't sit there and hold the button, shooting every car in sight. They are trained better than that. Also, when they do pull you over, they are going to be less likely to take it easy on you seeing as you're trying to one up them with a Radar Detector.

There is also the point of moving radar. I know the state troopers in WA state use it a lot. They will have the radar on the whole time they are pacing traffic. My V1 will alert me long before I even see the trooper, reminding me to be more attentive to the speed limit.

Another point, I got popped by lidar once on a night when it was pretty much only me on the freeway. I immediatly lowered my speed, and finnaly saw him pull onto the highway and flip on his lights. I pulled over, and unplugged my V1. He came up and asked me if I knew how fast I was going, which I responded that I didn't really know(the truth). He then asked me where I was going and for my license and registration. Told him I was on my way home, he handed me back my license and registration and said to slow down. Never even pulled up my record from what I could tell. He had to have seen my V1, yet he still let me go with just a verbal warning. Lucky I guess?

Can you go more in depth explaining your statement, "(The sunroof already has a fuse, so if the V1 wire shorts, it'll blow the fuse for the sunroof). " Is the wiring shown in this post done after the sunroof fuse? If so, is it possible to do it before the sunroof fuse?

Thanks for your help

If you hook the V1 hardwire kit directly up to the sunroof (removing the fuse for the V1 kit), it would mean the V1 would be fused at the sunroof fuse (same fuse as the sunroof).

Any event that would have caused the V1 inline fuse to blow, will now cause the sunroof fuse to blow instead.

This is good because you don't want to have to take everything apart again to replace a blown fuse.

Make sense?

-Brian

Good Answer there but i think its better to leave the inline fuse. If the sunroof blows its fuse in the fuse box for some reason it will kil the radar and the sunroof. Replacing the fuse in the box will allow both to work. If the radar blows its inline fuse it will stop working but the sunroof will still work. BUT, to change the inline fuse you will have to get all that stuff from the top to get to the inline fuse. The reason that the inline fuse is a good idea is just a matter of amps. If the inline fuse and the sunroof fuse (AND I AM PRETTY SURE THIS IS THE CASE) do not have the same fuse rating then you rust blowing the radar to ____ if there is a surge because the sunroof fuse did not pop and there was nothing protecting the radar.

Moral of the story: Keep the inline fuse.

Good Answer there but i think its better to leave the inline fuse. If the sunroof blows its fuse in the fuse box for some reason it will kil the radar and the sunroof. Replacing the fuse in the box will allow both to work. If the radar blows its inline fuse it will stop working but the sunroof will still work. BUT, to change the inline fuse you will have to get all that stuff from the top to get to the inline fuse. The reason that the inline fuse is a good idea is just a matter of amps. If the inline fuse and the sunroof fuse (AND I AM PRETTY SURE THIS IS THE CASE) do not have the same fuse rating then you rust blowing the radar to poop if there is a surge because the sunroof fuse did not pop and there was nothing protecting the radar.

Moral of the story: Keep the inline fuse.

Whoa, let's get something straight here. The fuses in the car are for the purpose of protecting the car, not for protecting the device from an over-voltage situation. If something happens to the device, the fuse is there to blow to prevent the wiring from heating up and causing a fire. That's it.

The radar detector should be designed to accept up to 15 or 16 volts. There should be an internal voltage regulator to handle this. So you should not have to worry about if the V1 fuse and the Sunroof fuse are the same amperage.

If anything the V1's fuse will be less because it does not require the same amount of power as the Sunroof.

The other point is that if you wish to wire the V1 in a way that will not blow the Sunroof's fuse in the event of a V1 malfunction, you will need to find an unfused ignition controlled point of power. This means pulling the driver's A pillar and running a line all the way down to the fuse box, then finding the non fused ignition power. (By non fused, I mean non fused interior side, there is another fuse for power in the engine bay.)

It's just easier to run it off of the Sunroof's power, and accept that if the V1 or Sunroof blows the fuse, you will have to replace the Sunroof fuse before either of them will work again.

I don't think anyone has had a problem with this since this was posted. I sure haven't, and I've done this to 4 vehicles so far. (Mitsubishi Eclipse, Mitsubishi Galant, Scion tC, and my Lexus IS350.)

-Brian

Thanks for the info, there's a lot of good stuff in the above discussion. I think I will leave the inline fuse in there even though it will be a bigger hastle in the even that the V1 fues goes. I figure it's better safe than sorry even though I would expect that those that are more electricly inclined would disagree with my decision. I've never had the V1 fuse go and figure I'll take my chances that the inline fues won't go.

Peace

Thanks for the info, there's a lot of good stuff in the above discussion. I think I will leave the inline fuse in there even though it will be a bigger hastle in the even that the V1 fues goes. I figure it's better safe than sorry even though I would expect that those that are more electricly inclined would disagree with my decision. I've never had the V1 fuse go and figure I'll take my chances that the inline fues won't go.

Peace

Thats what I did.

Great article. As I read it, I found Myself wondering if I could also do the same thing with a GPS system. And taking it one further, would there be any complications of wiring up a GPS and a Radar Detector at the same time from that point?

I tried this method ver-batum and it didnt work. I am in a '06 bsp tC just over a month old. Any tips?

worked great my loop didnt fit over the bolt to ground it so i just took some metal wire from some twist ties and twist tied ti to another metal hole. works great. thanks for the tech article

Did you get that meter free with a bowl of soup? :P

I own a Passport 8500 and have used it for 2 years just sitting on my windshield with the cigarrette plug. I finally ordered the hardwire kit, and got the one that has the quick mute button in line with the power cable. I was hoping to mount the detector with a visor clip on the visor and run the power down the pillar to place the mute button close to my knees. Does anyone have any tips on how to do this effectively? I also have very few tools (no voltmeter) to test for the right wire.

Update to my last: I did manage to hardwire my Passport with the direct SmartCord. I mounted the detector on the visor and ran the cord down the pillar, under the floor, and into the cigarette lighter. Just an FYI if you hadn't noticed by now, the cigarette lighter is only powered when the car is on. I'll include photos in my next post, it was just too hot out here to take them today.

good idea i should do that now that i ahve my xm radio built into my pioneer avic-z1 oh well i already t-tapped it int he top which worked great

i had to use a 10mm wrench to get that stupid bolt off

dont use the bolt just use use the metal wire from a twist tie or some other kind of metal wire to twist it around the other metal hole. its easier

Brian is right about using the sunroof power which when i saw his post on hardwiring the v1. Its not hard, all you have to do is take the dome light off like the pictures, then unscrew the visors, pull open drive a pillar, and remove the cowl cover, run the wire behind the dash under the pedals to the fuse box..

^^Yep, it was a bit tough at first to ground/tighten the nut but other than that its fairly easy.

Anyone have an opinion on the cobra xrs9330? I've seen quite a few experts give their opinions and some nice video links. The v1 is just really freakin expensive!

you get what you pay for with radar detectors

I swear by my V1, its a worthwile investment. In the end its a call you must make.

Great guide! I just couldn't figure out how to get that dome light assembly off and was afraid I'd break something. Excellent tip on the sunroof wire too, I hadn't thought of that. I was just going to use one of the bulb hots for +, but I'd always have to turn the detector on and off manually, instead of with the key.

THANK YOU AGAIN FOR A GREAT HOWTO, ESPECIALLY THE PICS!!!!

the dome light assembly?
you just yank down hard...

Yes, I meant *before* I saw this I couldn't figure it out.

Ah....glad to help...

Yes, I meant *before* I saw this I couldn't figure it out.
ohhh..

then that's awesome... :D

i was confused for a second there.

looks nice i like it a lot

Is there a Option In which I can disable one of the switches and have the button for the lights as my on off button for my radar detector? If so how do we do it.

just thought i would add that there are companies who will pay your ticket if your caught speeding w ithin certain peramaters with their detectors, and they have ones designed to be installed out of sight. Also if you are speeding noticably a cop dosnt need a lazer gun, a judge will accept the cops judgment, and btw, good install, if you wanna be able to take it out this is the way to go, and just so i dont start an argument, i am speeking from experience

I just got my Beltronics Vector 975R installed about a week ago. It is a stealth detector. The unit fits in my palm easily and is very easy to hide. The actual radar detection unit is in my front bumper (hidden by my radiator cooling panel). I have not mounted the laser units yet.

I like this detector because I don't have anything hanging from the middle of the windshield. My plan is to eventually mount it on a panel that will replace the radio. If I do get pulled over, I simply turn the detector off and shut the door and there is no evidence there is a detector in my car. It has already warned me of several attempts to radar my car.

I am not a heavy speeder. Of course, I usually go 5 to 7 mph over the limit like most people. The reason I got the detector is that I am extremely paranoid of cops. The detector warns me when there is a cop using radar so that I can check my speed and have peace of mind.

Great write up. A few things I would add....

- The T-tap that came with my v-1 did not fit around the orange sunroof wire did not fit it tightly, even after I crushed it down with pliers. It kept coming loose and the detector would go on and off.

- It is very easy to break the orange sunroof wire if your not careful.

That bolt is a horrible ground.

That bolt is a horrible ground.

Could you make a more useful post? I.e. if that ground is ineffective what is a better ground in the same area??

i tried to hook it up with the orange cable. but it won't power up. i use a volt meter to check and make sure the cable and ground is good. and it reads 12.5 v. and i also check the radar and make sure all the cables and radar are working. but somehow it won't power up. what could cost the problem? anyone know?

Good write up ... Did this in a few mins.


Works great.

If you tapped the ignition wire why would the detector remain on after you shut the ignition off?

Are any of those other wires 5 volts? I want to do something similar with my tom tom but it only needs 5 volts/2amps.

Would any of those other wires work or would I need to tap the 12volt one and then use capacitors or something to reduce it down?

Thanks

First of all, you would need resistors to lower the voltage that the Tomtom would see. I don't know personally if any of those wires are 5V. The easiest thing to check is to get a voltmeter/multimeter and test the different wires up there. However, if you need to convert the 12V to 5V, here is a schematic of what you would need to do:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/rcf22/Misc/12vto5v-1.jpg

The bottom left equation is a derivation using Ohm's Law to calculate the resistance needed. The bottom right is a calculation showing the power that will be dissipated across this resistor (power is current times voltage). So, since 14W will be left off by this resistor, you should use a resistor that can handle at least that. That'll probably be a 20W 3.5ohm resistor. (Check partsexpress.com if you need to order online)

Here's a question for all you radar users: What's the optimal mounting location? I want it to be fairly discreet, would it be best to be on slightly above the dash on the windshield, or up by the rearview mirror?

thx

Valentine 1 Good Man

Hmm Ill be doing this once I get a radar detector

Good read, and in response to some of the things on page one I bought an Escort 9500i and I have never gotten a ticket with it. You have to be an safe driver, it isn't a sure fire thing. I go about 80, if I see it I casually slow to 75. And about the tickets when having one, I'v been pulled over quite a few times and have yet to had a cop frown about me owning one, if you're going 95 when you get pulled over and you have one I'd be it's a different story.

yea I have an Escort 8500 for over a year now...never had a ticket and it gives me PLENTY of warning when there is radar around....mine is wired to the sunroof too

I just hooked mine up like this DIY should and it worked like a charm and only took me 10 mins. Got my hardwire cord off of amazon for $10 shipped to my door!