hey guys, i just ordered a front pair of Axxis Deluxe Plus.. and I'm just wondering if the installation is swap based.. meaning, I take the old OEM ones out and slap these on? or I need to replace the brake fluid and all that stuff..? And it would be functional just running the Axxis Deluxe plus in the front and the stock oem ones in the back right? because I think the rear pads are still good..

thanks in advance!

Pads are a direct swap for the old pads and after the wheels are removed only one bolt needs to be removed to do the swap. Topmost innerbolt on the caliper needs to be loosened until the caliper body can be swung forward so the pads can be removed. Use a c-clamp to push the caliper piston back into the caliper body and then install the new pads. Swing the caliper back down onto the brakcet and tighten the bolt. Install the wheel and pump the brake pedal a few times to get the fluid back into the caliper and seat the pads. Repeat on the other side and youre good to go. I have changed the pads on all 4 corners along with an oil change on a friends tC in less than 1 hour.

Fun fun fun! I need to do this soon.

Thanks instigator... so do i pump the brake pedal after I installed BOTH front brakes? or pump it after each one is done?

After each side is done. If you do both sides without pumping the pedal you could cause the fluid resevoir to overflow which makes a mess...and brake fluid will dissolve your paint so its not the best thing in the world to have running down your firewall.

NOOO its not

im assuming bleeding is nothing different with the tC ?

if you've done it on other cars, you can handle this

okay cool.

i just need an extra foot to pump it.

I use a handheld vacuum pump from autozone no pedal pumping required plus it works alot better too

Better than what? The normal 2 person method has worked flawlessly for years. I dont disagree that a vacuum bleeder can make 1 man bleeding easier but it is by no means required nor does it offer a "better" bleed.

I use a handheld vacuum pump from autozone no pedal pumping required plus it works alot better too

cant argue with something new to me.

i still prefer to feel my brakes. so im guessing you pump once with one hand and the other on the bleeder.

Vaccuum bleeders are actually connected to an air compressor which created neagtive flow which draws air out of the caliper. There are also the type that pressurize the master cylinder and force fluid through the system. Either method works well and can save a little time but still are not "better" than any other tired and true method.

its a handheld vacuum pump costs about 20 dollars at autozone

If your system is working properly you should not need to bleed the brakes if you are simply replacing the pads.

A simple method for compressing the piston, if there is room and you dont have a c-clamp, is to wrap a bit of electrical tape around the ends of two standard screwdrivers. Wiggled them BETWEEN the back of the pad and piston (not between the pad and rotor) before removing the pads. Try to get them as close to opposie sides of the piston as possible. Then gently apply pressure. They will slowly move back into the caliper. Then remove, replace pads and replace. If done carefully this works great. Just dont put too much pressure so you arent digging into anything, and push them SLOWLY back into the caliper evenly. If doing anything (replacing calipers, lines, rear cylinders on drum brakes, master cylinder, etc.) that requires bleeding I just let someone sit inside and do the regular pump n bleed.

Once you are done changing pads, make sure you pump the brakes a few times before backing out of the garage so you do have brakes :)

Once you are done changing pads, make sure you pump the brakes a few times before backing out of the garage so you do have brakes :)

yea, one of the techs at my old dealer found that out the hard way after working on his truck, did $8k worth of damage to the garage door at the shop
not a good day

so no bleeding required to change pads? (brake system noob)

Once you are done changing pads, make sure you pump the brakes a few times before backing out of the garage so you do have brakes :)

yea, one of the techs at my old dealer found that out the hard way after working on his truck, did $8k worth of damage to the garage door at the shop
not a good day

You always have these little stories dont you? :silly:

so no bleeding required to change pads? (brake system noob)

Nope. Pad swaps are usually one of the easist things to do when working on cars.

^^ Especially with 4 wheel discs. 30 minute job if you have done them before.

If the pads you buy do not come with the ends chamfered, it is a good idea to use a sanding block and put a slight chamfer on them. This will help to prevent some of the squealing common with the newer composition pads.

The ends would be what? The face of the pad or the left and right ends?

Hey instigator,

what pads would you recommend for the stock calipers, if I don't care about dusting but want really really good stopping. No track. Just daily driver on normal city streets. I do a lot of breaking while driving because of the roads taht I travel. How much would it cost for the fronts. Should I also change the rears? I only hear noise from the front brakes when I hit the brakes. Is it time to change?

If you dont mind dust than I cant recommend the Axxis Ultimates high enough. They offer great bite and pedal feel and are also very inexpensive. From a balance standpoint it is better to install the rear pads at the same time to keep front and rear torque levels in check, but it will not cause any problems if you run the front only.

Noise form your front pads can mean different things depending on what the sound is. If the sound is a high pitched squeal that is only heard when light pedal pressure is applied when coming to a stop, the pads may need to be put through a bed-in procedure to restore the pad transfer layer onto the rotor: https://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedincontents.shtml

If the noise is a more metallic sound that stays constant when the brakes are applied regardless of pedal pressure the the noise is most likely being caused by the pad wear sensors which are no more than metal tabs designed to rub againt the rotors. If this is the sound you are experiencing then the pads are most likely worn and should be replaced soon.

Another way to know if your pads are getting worn is if the "brake" light comes on while driving or comes on solid. This light comes on when a sensor in the brake fluid reservoir senses it is no longer submerged by fluid. This condition happens when the pads are worn causing the caliper pistons to stay pushed further out of the calipers. This lowers the fluid level in the cylinder itself and is completely normal. I this is the case, brake fluid shoud not be added to the reservoir to make the light go off due to the fact that when you go to install your new pads and push the caliper pistons back into the caliper body, the fluid the displaced will be pushed back into the reservoir causing it to overflow and make a big mess.

today i just changed my breaks and i bled the lines a bit because the piston wouldnt fit with the new pades on, so when i bled it, the piston could be pushed. but now my right side of the car is screeching kinda bad, the left is ok. i bought the axxis pads ceramics. is that noise normal? and the right side smells too

If you dont mind dust than I cant recommend the Axxis Ultimates high enough. They offer great bite and pedal feel and are also very inexpensive. From a balance standpoint it is better to install the rear pads at the same time to keep front and rear torque levels in check, but it will not cause any problems if you run the front only.

Noise form your front pads can mean different things depending on what the sound is. If the sound is a high pitched squeal that is only heard when light pedal pressure is applied when coming to a stop, the pads may need to be put through a bed-in procedure to restore the pad transfer layer onto the rotor: https://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedincontents.shtml

If the noise is a more metallic sound that stays constant when the brakes are applied regardless of pedal pressure the the noise is most likely being caused by the pad wear sensors which are no more than metal tabs designed to rub againt the rotors. If this is the sound you are experiencing then the pads are most likely worn and should be replaced soon.

Another way to know if your pads are getting worn is if the "brake" light comes on while driving or comes on solid. This light comes on when a sensor in the brake fluid reservoir senses it is no longer submerged by fluid. This condition happens when the pads are worn causing the caliper pistons to stay pushed further out of the calipers. This lowers the fluid level in the cylinder itself and is completely normal. I this is the case, brake fluid shoud not be added to the reservoir to make the light go off due to the fact that when you go to install your new pads and push the caliper pistons back into the caliper body, the fluid the displaced will be pushed back into the reservoir causing it to overflow and make a big mess.

could you pm with pricing for a full front set of brake pads.

guys, i took my car to a shop to get the brakes checked on how my right side was making noise, they corrected the problem and when i asked what had happened, they told me that my rotors needed to be cut and resurfaced, they look pretty cool right now and shiny, but were they supposed to do that?because they said u have to cut the rotors everytime you change the brakes..... i thought that was bs. and they charged me $80 for everything.