For all you boosted folks
Look, i sent a pipe off to zpi to have them remake it, its my throttle pipe. Once i got my original back, i put it back on my car. i dont quite remember how it idled before, but the only difference was i installed a vacuum block. basically my idle jumps between 600 and 800 rpms, its not steady. it seems as if i have a vacuum leak, but i dont see any leaks, nor can i feel any. Heres my setup.
Intake manifold to dist block left side, right side goes to bov, 4 on the bottom to go boost gauge, wastegate, throttle body, and evap. Any of you have idle that goes up and down? my spark plugs might be a little bit old also if that possibly could be part of it. its very frustrating and getting on my nerves. the car boosts fine, doesnt drop any boost, so im at a loss for what it could be.
Intake manifold to dist block left side, right side goes to bov, 4 on the bottom to go boost gauge, wastegate, throttle body, and evap. Any of you have idle that goes up and down? my spark plugs might be a little bit old also if that possibly could be part of it. its very frustrating and getting on my nerves. the car boosts fine, doesnt drop any boost, so im at a loss for what it could be.
What BOV are you running?? Tial has a problem with opening at idle making it harder to idle. I have a Tial and have the same problem but I have gotten over it. My car still idles just not very steady. My BOV looks like it is on the verge of opening but yet does not seem to open. I think it only opens sometimes making the car react to catch the idle. I also get some misfires at idle probably due to being extremely rich at idle.
DTRUONG_112 wrote:
my idle is steady at like 800 rpms.
thats great. But are you runnin open dump and oh yeah do you have over 210whp?
my idle is steady at like 800 rpms.
thats great. But are you runnin open dump and oh yeah do you have over 210whp?
if you have an idle problem and u just put a vac mani on...chances are u do have a leak ur not seeing. what did u do with the sources of vacuum that used to feed the evap and throttle body?
i would leave most of ur vacuum routing intact and just use the turbo stuff on the distribution block. the way i have mine is i cut the line to the brake booster and put the block inbetween the two. then i have the boost gauge, bov, and wastegate on the 3 and the 4th is capped off.
throttle bodies often have ported vacuum (which is modified from straight manifold vacuum) and u may have thrown off the idle by putting manifold vacuum into the throttle body. reroute all the stock vac tubes and set it up the way i have mine...works flawlessly.
can you post a picture of how your vacuum lines are routed? only problem with changing all my lines back is i dont remember entirely how they go. i do have the throttle body running to the dist block though. also if it was my bov wouldnt it stop if i removed the hose from the bov and plug it, and leave the bov with an open hold? it needs the vacuum to blow off, not to idle.. and yes im running over 260whp.
Originally Posted by mikescion
is this after your driving it then coming to a stop if so gotta let car warm up before do heavy driving mine did it too but found that letting car to warm up and come to normal idle it don't happend
Originally Posted by OuterHeaven
What BOV are you running?? Tial has a problem with opening at idle making it harder to idle. I have a Tial and have the same problem but I have gotten over it. My car still idles just not very steady. My BOV looks like it is on the verge of opening but yet does not seem to open. I think it only opens sometimes making the car react to catch the idle. I also get some misfires at idle probably due to being extremely rich at idle.
I just looked at my car, here is my setup exactly
The hose off the intake manifold (i detached it from the top of the head as recommended by zpi) that feeds the left side of the vac block, the right side leads to the bov, the first bottom one leads to the wategate, second to the throttle, third to the boost gauge, 4th to the evap connection.. can i run the bov and wastegate off the intake manifold only? will it still complete the circle?
hmmmm... I wonder if by routing the manifold and throttle body to the same vac block then maybe it could mess with the ecu trying to control the idle?? Also do you have a CEL lights?? If so which ones. It could also be some other problem...
Originally Posted by pollup
im set up rich from zpi, the set it that way.. what would i fry in the motor from running rich? ive seen worlds of cars run rich just fine. better rich then lean
As I noted above, the point at which you are excessive is different one each car and differs from each individual cars setups. A car with a stock igntion might see pre-detonation at 10:1 afr's where an identicle car with better plugs, or colder ambient temps, or an igntion booster, ect ect ect might not see it until 9:1.
Charles
like i said, im running off of zpi's tune, so its a little rich considering i had to drive through mountains on the way back home. I wouldnt think they would set me up for failure, would you? Im pretty sure my car is fine in that area.
Originally Posted by pollup
like i said, im running off of zpi's tune, so its a little rich considering i had to drive through mountains on the way back home. I wouldnt think they would set me up for failure, would you? Im pretty sure my car is fine in that area.
Originally Posted by TurboCustomz
Originally Posted by pollup
like i said, im running off of zpi's tune, so its a little rich considering i had to drive through mountains on the way back home. I wouldnt think they would set me up for failure, would you? Im pretty sure my car is fine in that area.
.. just saying, its not a tune that i put on it, and im not comfortable enough to let any of my local guys retune it so i get more hp locally.
Man, get rid of that Tial BOV....
That's step #1. Switch to HKS, and if the problems presist, then we can look elsewhere.
I have yet to stall when coming to a stop. We are hovering between 700ish RPM. And YES let her warm up before doing some good driving.
In the cold mornings, it will go through a 5 min period of where the idle goes UP and DOWN, UP and DOWN. Then it smooths out.
That's step #1. Switch to HKS, and if the problems presist, then we can look elsewhere.
I have yet to stall when coming to a stop. We are hovering between 700ish RPM. And YES let her warm up before doing some good driving.
In the cold mornings, it will go through a 5 min period of where the idle goes UP and DOWN, UP and DOWN. Then it smooths out.
mine eventually smooths out for the most part, but it still goes up and down about 100 rpms. real badin the morning. cant i isolate the bov by removeing the vac line and plugging it? wouldnt that inturn force the bov shut constantly? when i do that it still hops. unfortunately my new pipe STILL hasnt arrived here and im getting pretty upset. i have less then 2 weeks to work this idle issue or im gonna be gone for 6 months wonder wtf it is lol. today it actually wasnt too bad.
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