Ok - there have been some 'knocking' issues in the rear ... Megan looked into these cases and have found out that it is just improper adjustments on the pre-load etc. If you haven't setup coilovers before you neeeeeeeeddddd to have someone who really knows what they are doing to install/setup and instruct you on them.

I was asking myself they would make the product and sell them if they knocked? That REALLY did not make sense.

They said their are no current 'problems' with the coilovers they will be sending batches with longer springs in the rear just incase but everything should be 'perfect' if setup right.

I was just informed they may make the piston long (depends) and the new spring will be 6kg.

I have the longer pistons on my megan coilovers however a longer spring would be nicer and stiffer to

mmm nice..how much the coilovers cost you?? im looking to get a set of coilovers but dont want tein pricey ones

mmm nice..how much the coilovers cost you?? im looking to get a set of coilovers but dont want tein pricey ones

Well I don't know the current MSRP is $1050 I believe we will just have to see.

Ok - there have been some 'knocking' issues in the rear ... Megan looked into these cases and have found out that it is just improper adjustments on the pre-load etc. If you haven't setup coilovers before you neeeeeeeeddddd to have someone who really knows what they are doing to install/setup and instruct you on them.

I was asking myself they would make the product and sell them if they knocked? That REALLY did not make sense.

They said their are no current 'problems' with the coilovers they will be sending batches with longer springs in the rear just incase but everything should be 'perfect' if setup right.

One thing I have noticed is that the instructions suck and they are basically written by a taiwanese (spelling?) three year old. Is there anyway you could get a Megan rep to post up some better instructions on the best way to adjust them and proper settings? I have noticed that by loosening up the the pre-load on the springs, the knock seems to get a little better. Only problem is that I think the springs are a bit too short cause you can only adjust them so much.

do you have the preload set at the lowest? like the spring is is almost at full extension ? that'sw hat I have mine at right now I just did 1/2 turn past hand tightening the springs

do you have the preload set at the lowest? like the spring is is almost at full extension ? that'sw hat I have mine at right now I just did 1/2 turn past hand tightening the springs

That's about how mine are. Seems to work a bit better than how they came pre-set.

Let me look into those questions. =) Best thing to do is give feedback ... I'll update later.

Let me look into those questions. =) Best thing to do is give feedback ... I'll update later.

OK - Update: They have been working on a new website and:

"We are buidling a new site now, and new site will feature special instructions for certain coilover models that we are focusing on including the TC."

Let me look into those questions. =) Best thing to do is give feedback ... I'll update later.

OK - Update: They have been working on a new website and:

"We are buidling a new site now, and new site will feature special instructions for certain coilover models that we are focusing on including the TC."

Can you please just ask them about the spring tension? Should it be hand tight/ fully extended or should the springs be pretty tight. I think this is the problem and why some people are having a banging in the rear.

Also, can we trade in for the longer springs?

Let me look into those questions. =) Best thing to do is give feedback ... I'll update later.

OK - Update: They have been working on a new website and:

"We are buidling a new site now, and new site will feature special instructions for certain coilover models that we are focusing on including the TC."

Can you please just ask them about the spring tension? Should it be hand tight/ fully extended or should the springs be pretty tight. I think this is the problem and why some people are having a banging in the rear.

Also, can we trade in for the longer springs?

Checking on this.

Ok here is the dirty on it:

They will be glad to exchange old for new springs...

This is what Steve the tech had to say about everything:

Encoding:

People are having "banging" in the rear because they are bottoming out. The problem isn't the spring tension or the spring rate or preload or anything like that.. the problem is that the suspension travel is too short. We can't offer longer springs because that doesn't extend the shock and the problem persists; the longer springs will cause coil bind and more noises. We can't offer a stiffer spring rate because the spring rate has to be extremely stiff to handle that type of compensation and the dampers will not be stiff enough and the car will ride pretty poorly.

We are redesigning the shocks so to accomidate the changes that we did not forsee in a stock weight chassis. Our dampers are track tested for track-trim vehicles... that's how this came about unseen. As for why we don't offer extensive instructions on adjusting the dampers.. it's one of the if you don't understand certain aspects of the suspension system then you really shouldn't be adjusting them. Pre-Load is to be left untouched unless you know what changes come of it. The springs are linear, not progressive so if you increase pre-load you won't be increasing the spring rate.. you'll only be applying a little pressure on the springs and reducing the amount of travel before the spring reaches it's limits. Pre-Load is to be left at the free standing height of the spring (Neutral) or maybe 5-10mm Positive pre-load. If you get negative pre-load then you will reduce the amount of suspension travel which this system is already plagued with.

Please be patient with us as we are going through the changes already and will only need a matter of time before we can supply the shocks.

Ok, thanks for the information. Please keep us updated, It almost feels dangerous when I hit a large bump.

Ok, thanks for the information. Please keep us updated, It almost feels dangerous when I hit a large bump.

No problem - you can just lighten the rear of your car till then ;) heh

Do you have your spare and stuff in?

Stock exhaust?

Audio?

Yeah, spare and everything is in. No stereo though. I'll take out the spare. Did they give you a timeframe?

No - I am sure they will do it as timely as possible they need to make sure it works right on a stock wieght car.

Take out the Spare and the cubby's for now and put the foam piece that was over the spare back in then you can put the flooring over it and you can still put stuff on it just not alot of wieght on the sides.

That might help a bit.

Also if you are driving alone most the time lay the rear seats forward.

Here's what I got from Megan Racing this afternoon:

Hi,
In this case, give us couple more weeks, let us make more and we will send to you to exchange, and you can send the old ones back to us. Please contact us 2-3 weeks later. thanks


Megan Racing Inc, USA.
489 Yorbita Road
La Puente, CA 91744
U.S.A.

They have pretty good service. I can't remember the last time anyone answered e-mails to me so quickly.

They have pretty good service. I can't remember the last time anyone answered e-mails to me so quickly.

Well - this is why I approached them, something didn't seem right about all of this and they make some great products and I have enjoyed talking to the guys over there.

So - glad you heard back so timely.

They are one of my key sponsors and do make some very fine products, why I went to them for my needs in the first place.

We have had several indepth discusions about the rear coilover issues and they are pretty amazing in customer service and taking this with the highest regaurd and bringing out an updated version and replacements for us in a very quick timeline. I was told today, 2-3 weeks at the most, that is incredible, no other company has dealt with issues that quickly I have even known of and I have been doing this almost 40 years.

Rick

I did get an alignment this weekend and it made the ride much smoother. My camber was really off in the rear making me ride on my sidewalls. I have Potenza RE070's from my buddies STI and the sidewalls are very stiff.
I continue to be happy with them, and look forward to the revised rears.

edit

Ok, got a message from Megan. They sent the new cylinders and springs for the rear. They should be here friday and I'll get them on this weekend if possible.

is everyone getting the rear updates?

Oops,
I just called Megan to check up on this, sorry, they are not in, no date set to expect them either, they can only say that it should be fairly quick. If you are in this industry in any kind of way, you know that is a very opened ended statement, could be weeks, could be..... I am hoping to be seeing them just soon a possible myself, we just have to be a bit patient.

Rick

yeah I can't wait to get the new rears, I've been waiting to reinstall my Megan coilovers since I Uninstalled them

I am running the fronts with the Tein rears for now, not really to bad a combo but I have not driven the car since the last autocross, no need to:)

Rick

I should have mine installed by monday. I'll do a full review when they are installed. They are just sending replacement cylinders with longer springs so you have to take the coilovers apart. I'll take pictures when they walk me through it.

I still havent gotten a reply from them and its been about a week. Is there a direct person I can talk to about this problem cause I just went to the "contact us" part on the site and sent a message. Thanks!

Support@meganracing.com is the e-mail I used and got an answer right away. Actually, within 2 hours.

Thanks for the info!! :bow: I think this time ill leave my number as well.

yeah megan racing responds really fast, really good people

Well I just shot them an email. Hope they respond so I can get my rears fixed like everyone else. :pray:

I think only tcangel is getting the new rears at the moment??

Perhaps they are waiting for me to install and test them. I should have them on monday or tuesday and then I will let you all know if the change is adequate.

I dont know why I havent gotten a reply from megan yet. I've sent them two emails; one about 3 weeks ago and one a week ago. Maybe they dont like me.... :nails:

Update:
I installed the new cylinders and springs. Pretty easy to do. I did the whole thing in 4 hours by myself without powertools and using jack stands. The ride is 100% improved. There is no more banging or slamming in the back. I really like the ride now.

I did run into one huge problem though. I cannot lower the rears anymore. I'm driving around and the car looks like an old mexican monte carlo jacked up in the back. I think the springs are too tall leaving no room to lower it anymore. My only option is to add a lot more spring pre-tension so I can lower it more. The upper and lower lock rings are about 5mm away from each other as it sits now. I'll contact Megan and see what they say about it.

how high is it? I wnated my rear to actually adjust higher as I think it was too low in the origionals

It's probably an inch higher than stock right now.

If you run 3/4" to 1" wheel gap you will still have really good suspension geometry, any lower and things go bad really fast which severly upsets the handling of the car. I have done extensive measuring and testing of different ride heights and driven the car in autocrosses with vastly different results, to low, the car handles far worse.

3/4" is about as low as I would go with stock tire diameter

1" is working really well with slightly shorter tires, I have 235/40/17's.

Let us know what your gap is please:)

Rick

My gap is 3-4 inches right now. I can lower it a bit, but it's still going to be about stock height.

I hope you mean actual wheel gap as I should of more appropriately said tire gap, lol! If you have that much tire gap then you are ready for some mud bogging:)

I just checked my car again, from the top of the wheel, not the tire, I measured 4" exactly to the upper edge of the fender opening. There is a bead back under the edge abit, I did not use that since less visual.

Please let us know where mesuring from and too more precisely:):)

Thanks,
Rick

I have that much tire gap!

I'll wait to hear from Megan before posting any more. Who knows, maybe I put the coilover back together incorrectly...

I think the issue is the height of the springs and I just need to add more pre-tension so I can lower the cylinder into the strut housing more.

Yikes!!!!!!

Can you take a pic of the coilovers, under the car is fine, I may be able to help with this a bit.

If so please post or email to me.

rick@raamaudio.com

Thanks,
Rick

yes very interested in what it looks like

Pre tension would only raise the car more, that is how regular coilovers adjust ride height.

I recommend taking one off, loosening the lock rings and turn the shock down all the way into the lower housing.

Though not recommended(I would do it myself but not recommend others do so) you could remove the two lock rings, lower the spring perch down to the bottom housing and tightenit against it.

Then put it back together with the spring as low as possible on shock(damper) body and see how it looks when installed.

This is what I proposed to test for my car as they were going to send me a set of springs to test with but decided to only send one set out.

They list some 10KG 135mm springs and some 8KG150mm ones as well. I figured with their current lower sections and the 10KG 135mm springs I would of been around the perfect ride height with the lock rings removed.

The 8KG springs may be more comfortable but they were going to be a bit tall.

If you cannot get in touch with them please let me see if I can help you, I have been modding imports for nearly 40 years, I do have a few tricks up my sleave;)

Rick

please post some pics of how they look :)

I can't post pictures now. Here's the story,

They sent me 6KG 150 springs and the slightly taller cylinders. The cylinder is all the way down into the base and the spring is all the way down. I still have a huge wheel gap.

What we need is the stock cylinders with the 8KG 135 springs. I just communicated this with Megan and I'll wait for an answer and let you guys know.

Yes, 6kg would be too soft and too long. I agree, 8kg and 135mm should work out fine. I was hoping to get as set sent of the 10kg 135mm to test but they decided to hold off until new parts were made instead. (I will probably need the stiffer springs for autocross and track days)

Rick

Here's another update. I took off the new springs and used the originals with the longer cylinders. I think this is very close to what is needed. I am still having a problem lowering the car though. It's close to where I want it, but the cylinder is all the way into the base and the spring has been lowered to where there is only the tiniest bit of pre-tension. I still have plenty of room to lower the car by lowering the spring perch, but I am afraid that the springs will bounce around a bit at full extension of the suspension. What do you think?
I'll give it a try tomorrow and see if it's ok. I can tell you that the longer cylinder is necessary in order to stop the banging in the rear of the car so I wouldn't change those.

My guess is a 8KG 120 spring would be absolutely perfect. I'll make my recommendation to Steve who is the tech at Megan working on this.

yeah steve is a great guy

I agree, Steve is a great guy, Megan is a great company as well, just have a few bugs to work out. These are beautiful made coilovers, I am sure I am going to love them once I get the rears sorted out:)

I wanted to try some 120mm 8KGs as well but I will still probably end up with 10kgs for track use.

Rick

when are they sending it out? im waiting on my new set of rears also.

does anyone else think its odd how the megan coils are 8kg front and 5kg rear spring rates.. while most other coilovers have the opposite.. like 7/10(tein) or 4.5/6.3 (progress) maybe this is why there is something wrong with the rear.. the fronts are stiffer then teins but the rears are barely stiffer then the stock... seems like it would make more sense the other way around. i was looking to get these so maybe someone could make sense of this for me

the car is fron weight biased...so logically speaking the front should be stiffer then the rear

correct?

then wouldnt that make more oversteer on a FWD car that is bad. i just think its weird how all the other springs are stiffer rate in the rear except the megan coils ... i was wondering if anyone had a reason, like the struts are shorter or w/e it may be.

Ok, last update because I'm rally sick of working on these. My hands are all tore up and my back is trashed.

What worked best for me is the new longer cylinders with the 62.120.005 initial springs. The car is now very driveable and it's comfortable. I have the rears with absolutely no spring pre-tension which seems to be the most comfortable setting. Only problem is, if you like to slam the car down in the rear, this is not going to work.

My recommendation now stands as...

new longer cylinders with 62.120.008 springs in the rear. The rear springs are just too soft and bouncy at 62.120.006.

Im glad they sent out replacements for you. Now lets see if they're going to hook the rest of us up... :pray: hehe...

I think they are still testing. If you have the longer cylinders, you have what I have anyways. They are probably going to send me new springs to try out. You may want to wait till they are done testing. I have pulled and re-installed the rears like nine times now and trust me, it's not fun. I'm trying to give them the best set-up before they start swapping out fro people.

Sounds like a pain in the butt. Im definately waiting for the final product. I dont want to be "testing" things out for them. Do you know if you are the only one testing for them?

my email from megan racing.....


Hi,
We are updating the rear suspensions, so info will be changed later.
Most
cars have softer on the back, only some have stiffer on back, because
the
engine is in front and front needs higher spring rates to support, but
some
cars like RSX, then they need higher on the back due to body set up.


Thanks

Steve is a great giy i'm sure he has a reason for the spring rate setups and will work everything out

The rears deffinately do need pretty stiff rear springs, no question about it :)

Rick

Wow, everyone is gettin a reply from megan while I am still in the dark. Did i miss something here?

They are going to re-design the rear cylinders. I'll let you know when they are ready.

im guessing it would be a bad idea to go pick up those megan coilovers for $850 right now?

Yep, better wait till they are done redesigning it. Unless you want banging noises when you drive around.... :P

Well, you also gotta take into account suspension geometry. If stiffer springs are out back, there's usually a good reason.

I haven't read too many complaints about the "backwards" spring rates on the other coilovers.

I had this conversation with them. I think the big problem with the knocking is that the bouncy springs provide too much suspension travel.

Here is the last update from them:

If we use the 120mm springs then we bottom out too easily. Consider the bump
stop to remove 25mm and then the distance between the first thread and top of
the cylinder is 25mm so that's 50mm's taken from you. That leaves you with
only 70mm's to compress. That's not taking into consideration that the
spring itself takes up that entire space. Immediately once you place weight
on the car it's going to take up a good portion of that travel.

If you notice, there's a large portion of the damper cylinder still available
over the bottom spring perch. This is wasted space. We're going to make a
longer piston, slightly shorter cylinder and a 150mm spring. Hopefully this
will give us a good setup.

Since the springs and shocks(correctly called dampers) are mounted somewhat inboard due to the design of the rear suspension they require less compression to acheive full suspension travel. Less compression can be controlled by using a higher rate spring that still allows full travel at the outer ends of the suspension.

That is just one aspect to consider, another is having a heavy glass roof, stiffer springs will help control body roll.

And yet another, it is not always advantagous to use stiffer sway bars to control roll as they can induce unwanted side effects as well.

Has anybody checked the stock spring rates?

I should receive an alternate set of spring to test on Monday, they are 135mm 10kg and I am pretty sure they will do the job and since I am more into racing I can use the stiffness. I will let everyone know as soon as I get a chance to get them installed and tested.

It would be best to hold off until I at least know if the car will sit right and then how it functions before trying this yourselves, let me be the guinee pig:)

Rick

Update:
I have 2 sets of springs and some new re-designed strut's in the mail to test. I should have them in this weekend. The struts are shorter to allow you to lower the car more. The springs are:
8KG 120mm
6KG 130mm
I have a feeling everyone wants the 8KG springs so that is what I will test first. I already know the 6KG springs are comfortable because I have been riding on the 150mm 6KG's for a while now.

I'm interested in the 8k's or the 10k's

Thanks for the update!

I am fairly certain the 6kg springs are going to be much to soft and revalved dampers would most likely be required so you have the full range of adjustments. The 10K springs we now have likely required a stiffer shock to match them better.

8kg at 120mm sounds like it may be the ticket for most users needs, I hope they are long enough.

As for extra drop, just remember guys, slammed is not faster and deffinately not safe for you or the car, the geometry is so screwed up you give away a great deal of handling. I tried my car setting fairly low, 1/2" wheel gap and did not like the way it handled at all so I measured and plotted the geometry out in full scale and found it was really messed up. When I plotted just a 1/2" raise(1" wheel gap) it improved dramtically and the difference was good for nearly 2 seconds improvement on my relative autocross times, that is huge!

Rick

Actually, we have 5KG springs in the rear right now so 6KG is a stiffer spring. I have 6KG with 150mm in the rear now and the ride is very nice and comfortable, just like my H-techs were. Only problem is you could not lower the car enough. That is why they are sending me 6KG 130mm. I think this is the set-up most will want. It rides very smooth for a coilover.

I am sure I will be happy with the 8KG springs and as long as they don't bottom out, I will keep those.

10KG will definately be stiff for most, but then again most of your mods are that way.

any new updates?

Update:
I installed the two sets of springs and have told them that the 6KG 130mm is a great set-up. I am very happy with it, except for a few small things I recommended. We will have to wait and see what they decide.

This is the lowest you can go with the set-up which is fine with me. Would others be interested in going lower? Maybe.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI3OTc5NzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI3OTgxNjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

The top of the tire is about even with the fender. I think it looks very good and the ride is fantastic.

wow I Like that a lot, that's perfect height

Though I can,t exactly see the wheel gap or know the diameter of your tires it looks like it is right in the ballpark for keeping the suspension geometry correct for better handling.

Easier to drive without worrying so much about scraping.

Looks well porportioned and balances the overall appearance of the car.

Does not look ricy in the least, looks very good actually:)

___________________________________


(For those that want a lower ride height all the positives I mentioned go out the window and the opposites take thier place. )

Note: longer 6lb springs will have a bit more travel before bottoming out and of couse ride better. I am pretty sure the 6kg 130mm will end up being to soft and result in continued bottoming out and will bring back some of the factory understeer designed into the car.

I think the 8kg will be the way to go for most peoples needs as a compromise between riding to stiff, should prevent bottoming out and help balance the car better, maybe have just enough understeer(a little is a good thing in most situations)

Rick

any updates on your set of springs rick?

Well, I have been driving on these for almost a week and have yet to feel anything like bottoming out. I've hit some huge bumps too! I would say these are very close to perfect for your normal everyday driver. Remember that they have shortened the cylinder a bit and lengthened the stroke. I did recommend that they shorten the stroke a bit so you can lower the car a bit more.

The 8KG springs also drove nicely. I put those on first to test them since I figured the stiffer spring would make the handling better. I was unable to notice any handling difference between the 6KG and the 8KG. The only difference was in the feel upon hitting cracks and such. I gave them both a good beating and honestly I think the 6KG felt like a better ride without compromise. I honestly think the understeer problem is better fixed through a rear sway bar, I am still on the stock sways.

I currently have a set of the 10kg 135mm springs on right now with the rests of the parts being original from the kit.

Everything is perfect except the butt sits 1.125" higher than I want it to sit.

There is nothing further can do until they shorten the dampers and modify the lower sections(for my needs shorter dampers would do it for me by themselves)

They do have to revalve the dampers for the revised spring rates so I hope they do not use to soft of springs or they will not match what I need if the damper settings are to soft.

I really love these coilovers up front they are superb so far, very anxious to get the rears sorted out so I can really see how well I like them as a whole package!

Rick

yeah me to RIck, the fronts I think are great, just waiting on a final decision on the rear dampers so they can send me a set of revised rears

I currently have a set of the 10kg 135mm springs on right now with the rests of the parts being original from the kit.

Everything is perfect except the butt sits 1.125" higher than I want it to sit.

There is nothing further can do until they shorten the dampers and modify the lower sections(for my needs shorter dampers would do it for me by themselves)

They do have to revalve the dampers for the revised spring rates so I hope they do not use to soft of springs or they will not match what I need if the damper settings are to soft.

I really love these coilovers up front they are superb so far, very anxious to get the rears sorted out so I can really see how well I like them as a whole package!

Rick

Your not going to get the car any lower with those springs no matter what they do with the cylinders. They need to shorten the strut base to allow the springs to come down lower. The stiffer the spring, the less compression and the farther down the cylinder the perch needs to be. This is where it runs into the strut base. You actually need shorter springs or a shorter strut base to make that work.

Opps, you are correct, I just wish they had more threads milled into the current ones, if so I would shorten them myself. That would gain nothing though until the dampers are shorter as well as mine are bottomed out in the base units as it is and I have no preload dialed in at all.

I am not driving the car on these, just have it sitting in the shop, will put the Tiens back on the rear today as taking it in for a custom welded in roll cage tomorrow.

Rick

Rick, did they send you the shorter cylinders also? That should help a little. Basically though, they need to remake the strut base as I mentioned.

In order to get my car this low, I had to remove the lower lock ring and lower the cylinder all the way into the base. It works and drives nice, but leaves no adjustablity for those who want to go lower.

No, I still have the original cylinders and also removed one lock ring and lowered them all the way into the base. I have been temped to cut down the springs to lower the car more but making myself be patient as that would just be a hack job(I would make a sleave of some sort to keep the springs in place though)

Rick

I think they are working pretty quickly on fixing the set-up so be patient.

i love the way it sits :) cant wait for it

can u take a close up pic of the gap and of the rear damper..thankx

Here's a huge picture so you can maybe see the rear gap better. I'll get better pics tonight.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI3OTc5MTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

lol man thats huge.. thankx for the pic and cant wait to see the rest

Are you sitting on 18" rims?

No, they are 17" with 225/45/17 RE070's. They have a taller sidewall so it makes the car look slightly higher.

No, they are 17" with 225/45/17 RE070's. They have a taller sidewall so it makes the car look slightly higher.

What is the offset of your wheels? (sorry for being OT)

I think the offset is 35

Thats a perfect drop since they're 17's. Cant wait for megan to decide which springs to ship out. Probably gotta email them again when they do decide.

what can i say about them, I have a set of the streets on my s13 and no problems and figured getting a set for my scion. but just like any new product they will run into snags but at least there replacing all the old ones so thats awesome.

if you guys are interested my sponsor got me a set for my s13 for about $850 I could try to get you a set for about that price too, dont quote me on that though. The more people who jump on this and I could probably drop the price.

sorry for my off topic question...
but im looking into suspension...

all i need is a nice height adjustable drop....is the megan suspension a little too much for me w/ its 32 way adjusting? i was leaning towards purchasing the tein basics...but figured maybe the 32 way adjust etc etc would make my ride a whole lot better over the tein which is just height adjustable...

do i really need all that...i mite autocross ONCE...and maybe go hit the 1/4 ONCE...definetly wont be an avid tracker...

Thanks
once again sorry for the OT question...but u guys would be the best to answer this for me.

Well as for now, I wouldnt recommend the megans because they are in the process of redesigning the rear suspension. For the value, I would go with megans, but I cant say its better than other suspensions because I've never been on other suspensions. Hope that kind of helps...

ill tell you this much the megans are generally a good suspension for the price you pay, there made at the same place that produces the apexi n1's. they can take a pounding cuz I know my set gets it. all I have to say best bang for your buck, IMO teins are overrated.

I am very happy with mine now. As long as you don't mind a "rougher" ride then you will love them. Just make sure you get the updated version. They are well made and easy to adjust.

yea the ride is a little rougher but your putting in a piece of performance not luxury. but in the end its well worth it.

thanks for the reply guys..

but is that 32 way dampning needed?

what is all that for? Is the 32 way adjust there to make my ride smoother?

so does megan know which set of springs to go with now??

yeah, i'm waiting on this, too. how's the testing going?

please let us know of any updates :)

Here's the update from Megan.

we decided to make 130/6kg and shorter shocks, making now, people if currently experiencing the same problem, they can contact us for free replacement. thanks

Megan Racing Inc, USA.
489 Yorbita Road
La Puente, CA 91744
U.S.A.
Tel: 1-626-581-0988
Fax: 1-626-581-8334
www.meganracing.com

So basically, give them a call or e-mail support@meganracing.com if your current set-up is not working for you. I am very happy with the current set-up and the shorter shocks should work out nice.

thankx for the update :)

Doesn't Tein use 10k springs in the back?

Well, i bet they're nice and comfy compared to them.

Where's the best place to get these coilovers?

Here's the update from Megan.

we decided to make 130/6kg and shorter shocks, making now, people if currently experiencing the same problem, they can contact us for free replacement. thanks

Megan Racing Inc, USA.
489 Yorbita Road
La Puente, CA 91744
U.S.A.
Tel: 1-626-581-0988
Fax: 1-626-581-8334
www.meganracing.com

So basically, give them a call or e-mail support@meganracing.com if your current set-up is not working for you. I am very happy with the current set-up and the shorter
shocks should work out nice.

FINALLY ITS FINISHED!! :clap: :clap: Thanks tcengel for your updates! Now I gotta call them and get my rears fixed!! :relief:

So if im going to purchase some megans..how do i know i wont get sent the old ones with the issues as opposed to the newew revised ones...

Ask the shop you are buying them from to confirm that the rear springs say have 62.130.006 printed on them. If they have 62.120.005 then they are the old ones.

bump for that info

Well just got my replacements today. HELLA EXCITED! Gotta love living in so cal, I emailed megan yesterday afternoon and they got here earlier today... :clap: :clap: Springs are still short, but i guess thats how its gonna be..

Well just got my replacements today. HELLA EXCITED! Gotta love living in so cal, I emailed megan yesterday afternoon and they got here earlier today... :clap: :clap: Springs are still short, but i guess thats how its gonna be..

Well, they are still working fine for me after a month. They are short but stiff so it's a good compromise I think. The handling on my car is sick and I don't even have upgraded swaybars. Also, make sure when you install them that you have as little pre-load on the springs as possible, It will help with the comfort.

mine were sent out yesterday, hoping to receive them on Monday

yea they are more confotable i've had mine on for the past weel already and they ride a lot smoother

yea they are more confotable i've had mine on for the past weel already and they ride a lot smoother

Good to hear!

Also, make sure when you install them that you have as little pre-load on the springs as possible, It will help with the comfort.

You mean have little to no play from the spring going up and down?

Also, make sure when you install them that you have as little pre-load on the springs as possible, It will help with the comfort.

You mean have little to no play from the spring going up and down?

I mean that the springs should be fully extended in the perch before you put any weight on them.

I hope the springs were preloaded before during the manufacturing phase. If not this will lead to sagging in the course of 3 ~ 5 years. This is how you tell if the springs are preloaded. If you install the suspension and drop the car and the car doesn't settle right away, then the manufacturer just coiled the spring, paint, and dump into the box without any further tests done.

How long is the lifespan of the dampener? If they don't know, then you get the idea.

I hope the springs were preloaded before during the manufacturing phase. If not this will lead to sagging in the course of 3 ~ 5 years. This is how you tell if the springs are preloaded. If you install the suspension and drop the car and the car doesn't settle right away, then the manufacturer just coiled the spring, paint, and dump into the box without any further tests done.

How long is the lifespan of the dampener? If they don't know, then you get the idea.

Huh???????

I meant to say pre-tension and not pre-load sorry.

wat is pre-tension and how do u change it....Sorry not familiar with that :)

With the strut off of the car and the spring installed on the strut, make sure that the spring is fully extended. Pre-tension is when you tighten the perch to put tension on the spring.

YES! My replacements are on the way from Calvin at Megan racing....i cannot wait, my back cannot take anymore. I'll update everyone with my opinion of the new set up

hey tcengel, how are you connect with megan racing? My car is the test car... You think you could contact calvin and ask how my front springs are doing? they're still a little bit too high.. i've been waiting on my front springs for 2 months now.. still haven't come in yet, and the back is way too low for the front.. back no finger, front 2.5 fingers..

hey tcengel, how are you connect with megan racing? My car is the test car... You think you could contact calvin and ask how my front springs are doing? they're still a little bit too high.. i've been waiting on my front springs for 2 months now.. still haven't come in yet, and the back is way too low for the front.. back no finger, front 2.5 fingers..


I am not affiliated with Megan in any way. I sent them an e-mail and they offered to let me test a few different rears if I agreed to keep you all updated.

Just e-mail Calvin, he answers within 24 hours. Support@meganracing.com

hey tcengel, how are you connect with megan racing? My car is the test car... You think you could contact calvin and ask how my front springs are doing? they're still a little bit too high.. i've been waiting on my front springs for 2 months now.. still haven't come in yet, and the back is way too low for the front.. back no finger, front 2.5 fingers..

If your there test car then why dont u ask them how ur fronts are??

Well finally installed my new shocks and springs. Pretty nice ride. I still have the slamming sound every now and then but it is 100 times better than what I had before. Also feels a lot firmer than before.

What's with the slamming sound?

$1000 on coilovers and there's a regular slamming sound?

i think they still need a taller spring cuz i still get a slamming noise every now and then too but not as hard or harsh as b4

What's with the slamming sound?

$1000 on coilovers and there's a regular slamming sound?

Yea its kinda scary. But thats what you get for the first batch. ^_^

I also do to under very sharp bumps otherwise it's ok, another revision I think is needed

yea i agree^^^i noticed that the tC is the only application that has a really small spring rate for the back...most other application have a spring rate of 160 or 180 even 200 and we have 130 in the rear.. i wonder y that is

yea i agree^^^i noticed that the tC is the only application that has a really small spring rate for the back...most other application have a spring rate of 160 or 180 even 200 and we have 130 in the rear.. i wonder y that is

It's actually 130mm height. It's the length of the spring, not the hardness. They are 6KG which is pretty normal for a street spring.

If you guys are banging in the back, do you have subs or something? Since I fixed mine, I have slammed maybe twice and that was on huge bumps, and the roads around here are really bad. If it's bothering you you could trim the bumps stops a bit to allow a little more travel.

^^ yea sorry i meant the spring height....yea i only slam on huge bumps and where i live we got some messed up freeways in Los angeles lol...but its a lot better than before :)

^^ yea sorry i meant the spring height....yea i only slam on huge bumps and where i live we got some messed up freeways in Los angeles lol...but its a lot better than before :)

This is the best that could be done with what they had. Due to the Strut design in the rear, it doesn't leave much room for suspension travel. I did mention to them that they could shorten the bottom of the strut to allow more room for the springs. I don't think they will do anything about it though. It's 99% fixed and if your having that much of a problem, maybe you shouldn't be on coilovers. If I had really bad roads locally, I would stick with springs and stock shocks. Mine are great and I love the ride. Especially considering how low my car is.

From looking at the K-Sport Post, seems they had to re-design the rears also. It's very hard to find room for springs and still leave room for adjustment up and down.

Ill sacrifice ride quality over performance anyday..... :P Yea but what Tcluis is right, LA freeways are horrible.... O wells its WAY better than what I use to have, no complaints here.... :)

If the roads are that bad, you probably should be on TRD springs or something.

Another thing you could try is to lighten up the rear of the car. Take out your spare tire and jack etc. Removing 50 pounds right over the rear springs should help quite a bit.

If the roads are that bad, you probably should be on TRD springs or something.


I use to be on those.... :rofl: I WILL NEVER GO BACK!!! :nope:

yea same here lol ^^

yeah we could lighten the car but I don't think we should have to since most people do keep the spare and toosl etc.. I was actually thinking about maybe running a helper spring which might help

ooo yea dats a good idea ^^^ how would u go about in putting one in??

can anyone measure the length of the spring when its not raised but with the load of the car on it please...i just wanted to make sure that i adjusted the srping length right.. thank you

hey tcengel, how are you connect with megan racing? My car is the test car... You think you could contact calvin and ask how my front springs are doing? they're still a little bit too high.. i've been waiting on my front springs for 2 months now.. still haven't come in yet, and the back is way too low for the front.. back no finger, front 2.5 fingers..

If your there test car then why dont u ask them how ur fronts are??

yeah, They've lagged on my front springs for 2 months already... So, my rear has benn 2 fingers lower than the front for 2 months.. Definantly not good at all.. But, they plan on installing on of their new front lips, plus a strut bar that they took off to demonstrate.

Sorry, but I read no reviews regarding slamming sounds with the Teins, so I ordered SS-P's instead.

I was a fan from when I first heard and saw pics of them. The Megans seemed like they'd be the setup to go with, but with Teins I found out you can get them overhauled when they start to wear out.

Good luck with those.

i just purchased megan coilovers and drift spec exh.? any advice?? please help. because i want the best ride for comfort and perfomance! thansk guys!

OIL IT WHEN YOU PUT IT ON!! BUY SOME GREASE!! you put it on the pillow mount... Ask the person who's installing it for you... My cousin didn't do that, and it went pretty bad.. Springs made a popping sound and such..

as far as the exhaust goes.. You'll loev it.. It'll be a bit loud at first, but you'll get used to it.

wat does the oiling do?

wat does the oiling do?

Two things I learned.

Oiling the pillow balls and springs where they meet the perch will get rid of any squeaking or banging noises.

I put a layer of Dynamat on the underside of the car between the chassis and the mount. It seems to have lowered the amount of road noise and banging that comes through the struts and transfers into the chassis.

Hey Guys,

i just purchased some meagn coilovers. Does any one here hve some installation tips? I havn't done this on a tc yet. I did it on my old bmw,and had to use a spring compressor to reuse the upper shock mount. Do I need to do this with the Megans/

Any insight would be appreciated

I just installed these on my car last night. There's not really any tricks to it, just take your time and use common sense and it will all work out. I started at 3:30 and finished around 6. FYI, to me the rears were much more of a pain than the front.

GT

hows the ride on these? Ive been thinking about getting them for my DD but been debating on the TEIN Basics or the KSports? I kinda want a nice soft and smooth ride but i heard coilovers werent the way to go for it. I currently have Hotchkis springs/stock shocks. Thanks!

The front are pretty smooth, the rear are bottoming out like no tomorrow. I emailed megan about getting a longer stiffer spring for the rear, hopefully they can help with that.

GT

Yeah,

I put mine in a week ago and the rears were bottoming out. I called Megan and they have mailed me out a reengineered spring and shock body. I will be doing the rebuild this weekend.

GT, you should check the spring number in the rear, if the number ends in 05 you will need the replacment parts.

The fronts are sweet though and once the rear gets sorted out i think these will be pretty nice.

Looks like I need to change my plans for the long weekend to include a rebuild as well. I live in SoCal so hopefully I can get them quickly.

GT

Hopefully the rebuild won't be too tough. :doh:

Good Luck!

Any have a write up on how to set the preload on the new springs I will be receiving tomorrow? Thanks

GT

Any have a write up on how to set the preload on the new springs I will be receiving tomorrow? Thanks

GT

It's a very easy process. Took me about an hour to do the swap. Everything screws off and back on. If you can figure out a lego set, you can figure this out.

That inspires some confidence, but a write up would still be nice :)

GT

Okay, so I finally got the replacement parts from Megan Racing. I called them on Monday and Steve told me that all I needed were replacement springs. When they didn't arrive on Tuesday I called and spoke with Jose who told me I needed springs and shock bodies. Steve once again told me I only needed springs and told me that that was all I was going to get but when I got home this is what I found in the box:

http://www.garytran.com/megan/IMG_1096.JPG

http://www.garytran.com/megan/IMG_1098.JPG

I still don't know why I received such conflicting information but since I have all the parts I might as well put them all on to see how much of a difference they will make. The new springs are only 5mm longer than the ones that came in the kit but they are 4k stiffer. After preloading the spring I really hope that the rear suspension won't bottom out so much and so severely. It was dark when I got home so I'm going to put these on first thing in the morning. I'll post up a report then.

GT

Cool!!! I also just received mine in the mail. I was told that I would get new shock bodies and springs. I wonder why you got conflicting info? Anyhow I am going to do the rebuild on Friday.

I forgot to ask. Any word from Megan on spring Preload?

What replacement parts did you get?

GT

I got the exact same parts as you.

Interesting, I guess they've decided on a 10k spring instead of the 6k spring that TCangel has. Good luck in your project. I sure hope this works out for the both of us.

GT

Yeah good lUck. Let me know what you think.

Hey guys, did you have to pay for your replacements? Cause i got the 1st "replacement" and im still bottoming out in the rear. Just wondering if you had to pay... thanks!

No, I didn't have to pay. Additionally the 10k springs are riding really well. I haven't been over any large bumps as of yet, but the ride is really A LOT better. I didn't take off the locking collars like TCangel did, but my desire wasn't to slam the car as low as it would go, although this is what I had to do in the rear as the damper body has bottomed out. The only way I can lower the car anymore is if I increase the preload on the spring. But I was going for a 2 finger gap up front and a three finger gap in the back and that is exacly what I have, give or take a couple millimeters. Overall I am happy with the new springs and the suspension overall. It handles great. I just need a new alignment now. Luckily I bought the lifetime alignment plan from firestone :) Here are some pics:

http://www.garytran.com/megan/IMG_1099.JPG

http://www.garytran.com/megan/IMG_1103.JPG

http://www.garytran.com/megan/IMG_1104.JPG

http://www.garytran.com/megan/IMG_1106.JPG

So thats as low as the 10kg springs go? The front looks good but the rear looks a bit too high for my taste.... :P

The springs might settle a little bit more, but I'm thinking that's going to be as low as it gets because I don't want to add any more preload on the spring.

GT

wow...maybe ill just stick with my banging sounds.... dont want my car looking like a 4x4 lol!.. No offense to your car GT..

None taken. Everyone has their own preferences.

GT

GT,

I am a little confused. Is that as low as the rears go? I would want to go about 2 fingers in the back. Is there any room for that?

They sent you the wrong springs. You want 62.135.006. I would call them up and complain. It's a waist of money if you can't lower the car any....

If you remove the two locking collars, you should be able to get 2 fingers in the rear.

TCengel, the original springs I had were 130 mm at 6k. They were so soft that I was getting severe coil bind that resulted in lots of bottoming out. Are you sure the same spring rate and 5mm of extra length is right?

GT

If you remove the two locking collars, you should be able to get 2 fingers in the rear.

TCengel, the original springs I had were 130 mm at 6k. They were so soft that I was getting severe coil bind that resulted in lots of bottoming out. Are you sure the same spring rate and 5mm of extra length is right?

GT

They have two different springs that worked for me. The 120mm 8kg which was a nice ride, but you could not lower the car much and the 135 6KG which seems fine on my car. If I hit a huge bump, I do get a tiny bit of coil bind but you barely feel it. I am very happy with my current set-up now. One thing I did do is remove the spare tire and jack. That helped with the coil bind and now I don't feel it at all. If you are not looking to slam the car, then go with the 120mm 8kg's.

There is no real way to fix the coil bind 100% and still lower the car alot. There is just not enough room between the strut base and upper strut. There needs to be more spring travel.

For me removing the spare tire is not going to be an option cause I have really bad luck and hate being stranded. I'll call about the 120mm springs to see how that will work out.

GT

Also, how much were you able to lower the car with the 120 8k springs?

GT

Also, how much were you able to lower the car with the 120 8k springs?

GT

About an inch less than stock. They didn't have time to settle though so maybe more is possible. That was without the lower lock collar.

Damn,

What would the point of removing the lock collars be. also wouldn't that be a little dangerous? I am starting to get a little fed up with this process.

I want the car to sit with the wheels about a two finger gap from the wheel well, it sounds like i would have a better chance of this with another setup.

I don't see it as dangerous since the spring perch would bottom out against the shock body. This means that there would be no play so it's essentially like having your shockbody act as the lock collar.

GT

I am just frustrated because it essentially eliminates any ability to adjust ride height. i could have saved a good chunk of money and done this.

I also live on the east coast so it is going to take them awhile to to get me the 6k springs

You have the 6k springs, the ones TCengel refers to is only 5mm taller than what you have. I really do not believe that the 5mm is going to make that much of a difference compared to the 130mm 6k the kit originally came with.

GT

I actually have the 5K springs with the original kit. This is were all of the problems originally stemmed from. Did you say that the new shock bodies are taller than the originals? If I kept the original shock bodies it might help.

I said the spring is taller. My kit came with a 130mm 6k spring. I now have 135mm 10k springs on the car. The reason why it doesn't lower as much as the 6k is that the spring is so much stiffer that it doesn't compress as much. Since it doesn't compress as much there is much more travel than the 6k springs. Hence why I believe that the 5mm increase from what I originally received would be insignificant and would still result in very limited suspension travel and a lot of bottoming out.

GT

Alright, I get it.

Well i am going to put on the 10k's and try to lower it as much as i can.

Well I put the new springs on my car and i am not happy. The ride height in the rear is too high. I think I need the 8K's

Let us know how it goes. Im looking to get some new springs as well, but I want to know which one to pick.

They sent you the wrong springs. You want 62.135.006. I would call them up and complain. It's a waist of money if you can't lower the car any.... I thought the updated springs is 62.130.006? Also how do I know if I have the updated shorter shocks? :question: :question:

They have 6k springs (which was supposed to be the update) 8k & 10k. They're basically just civic springs. :rofl: I checked my box and it was like 94-00 Civic or something like that... :rofl: As for the shorter strut, if you got the 6k springs you should have the shorter strut.

So i want 2 lower my car.
i want ~2 finger gap on the front and ~1-1.5 finger gap on the rear.

i want to buy a sub too. just a single sub (one 12 inch)

so i should go with the megan?

Tc is used only for daily driving ( i would like to take it to the track but i dont know any place... so.. )

no answer?:(
btw i emailed to one of the dealer and he said, he doesnt know the numbers on the back shocks but he's sure the rear has 8kg/mm rates...

so...?

I think the 1~1.5 finger gap in the rear is gonna be hard with the 8k springs. I have a little less than a 2 finger gap and I cant really lower it anymore. Now I heard that someone removed one of the lock rings, you could try that, but that would defeat the point of adjustability.

so 6 would be the winner?

but if i buy it then i can contact to megan and ask them to send me a new 6 right?

well i had problems with the rears bottoming out still with the 6kgs. The 8kgs didnt fix the problem but it bottomed out less and is much much better than the 6kgs. Overall the rear spring is just too short, if you look at the teins, tanabe, and others, the spring is nice and long and has lots of room to travel. The megans are just too short.

so better to go with teins?

Im not knockin megan, since i have them, but im just saying the design could have been better. If you live in a town or city with few pot holes, you should be fine. Live in Los Angeles, forget it...LOL!!

? why whats with LA?

? why whats with LA?

About 11 million cars, trucks, and buses in a 4,061 sq. mile area with a freeway system designed (and paved last) in the 60's and 70's.

Potholes 'R' Us :rofl:

sry to revive this after a month and a half but im gettin mine in soon. buyin em used and the person who i bought them from has both the stock rear springs (the 5k's) and 8k 120mm (he never installed the 8k's...they're being sent brand new in original packaging).

i dont have many potholes where i am. should i go with the 6k 130mm's? my goal is to not bottom out too much, have a somewhat comfortable ride, and be able to lower the car 1.5". from my understanding after reading through this entire thread, its either the 8k/120mm or the 6k/130mm.....and 8k wont allow you to lower it more than an inch? so if thats true i need 6k i guess but i just want to double check with those who have installed either the 6k 130's or the 8k 120's. lemme know what you guys think. thanks!

Well if you want to lower 1.5" from stock, the 8kg springs can do it. I got them down to about a 1.5 finger gap in the rear so thats pretty damn low. That is more than how far you want to go, I think. With the 8kgs, you wont risk bottoming as much compared to the 6kgs.

aight cool. what damper setting do you have them at (ie. 1-32)? how does that setting work for daily driving? im assuming you have the 8kg springs that are 120mm?

could anyone else who i PM'ed plz post your opinions too? thank you!

Im running 18F 16R. I know thats stiff but I dont like the boat rocking motion. Plus im a corner whore so I like my car to be stiff as hell. :P

damn lol. i was thinkin of runnin somewhere in the mid-20s. how much does the stiffness change the overall handling in your opinon?

:lalala:

:lalala:


??

Well on turns you bounce up and down a bit more with a softer setting. Of course it is still stiffer than stock but I can feel the difference. And bounce is not a real good thing because it shifts the weight of your car around.

did you get it down to 1.5 finger gap by removing the lock collar or by leaving everything on there? i dont want to have to remove anything...

Nope everything is still attached. :P I think its a decent drop but I dont know how your tastes are.

that'll work great for me. thanks man. the guy who i bought them from already had 8k's from megan that he never put on.....and megan's sending me out some 6k's...just talked to them last night. so now im all set and ill see which one works. im gonna throw the 8k's on first though.

I got the 10k springs and couldn't get it low at all. Megan is currently sending me the 8k's. According to Steve from Megan that should sort the rear out.

Is anyone getting a odd sound frm the front drivers side. It sounds like something is loose. I check and tightened everytrhing , but the sound is still there?

HAHA!!... I thought I was the only one. :P

well i knoe i got the 130 6k springs in and when i first got them on and did little or no play on the preload and it was fine for a while and then all of a sudden it started to sound like it was falling apart could the shock or w/e be messed up

I strongly suggest getting away from Megan coilovers. I have had the wrong springs shipped to me twice and now nobody from Megan is returning my emails or calls. The rear coilovers don't lower the car at all. I am totally ____ed off at these guys and am telling everyone I know to not by their products!!!!! :gun:


Stay away from Megan :flame:

well its too late i already have them and i am tring to get them to get some new springs

does any1 here still have the bad springs other then the 130 6k i need a picture of another model spring that is bad really bad

Megan is being a real big pain! I bought my coilovers from a guy who had them before and he had bad springs jsut like every1 else and also contacted megan about it and got new springs from them well the springs megan sent him were also bad but he didnt know cause he had sold me the coilover with the new bad springs on it and he also just gave me the old springs and i didnt know the new springs in were bad but i had contacted megan and said i needed a reciept from the people who sold it we got that and then megan is asking pictures of the springs i have on my car of course i can get those but i am not sure if i can find the old old springs that were originally on the coilover.

So I just need a picture of the original springs that were bad that megan had sent if ANYONE can help it would be MUCH appreciated if you could take a picture of them with the serial number of the spring PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE :bow: :bow: :bow: :pray: :pray: