Ok, so i've been reading up on the install techs and forum posts on the pulley and header install process, but I can't seem to get a good overall impression of how difficult the installs are for these two pieces. So I have some Q's to try to get more opinions:

Agency Power Crank Pulley

1. Looking at the tech DIY, I'm still unsure as to how much time this install would take. I've heard times ranging from 15 minutes to 2 hours to 2 weeks.

2. How do you handle those belts ? You have to loosen them somehow before taking off the stock piece, correct ?

3. The potential problem of tightening and belts not being tight enough is another worry - should I be worried ?

Strup Header

4. How much time does this usually take ? The major consensus is 1 hour for the more experienced people. I am pretty new to DIY parts installation.

5. Any pieces recommended (gaskets or whatever) to use while installing the header?



I would really like to do these myself and save money. The local shop (very reputable) estimates 3 hours of installation time for these two pieces, and at their rates, would approximately be 200 bucks.

6. Should I try these myself or should I spend the money and have the shop do certified mechanic work ?

 

headers = easy, just make sure u look at how everything stock is compared to your strup, my dc header install took about 30-45 minutes of actual work, u will get dirty tho....the only hard part of the header install is the cramped space. you may wanna bring a friend as a go-fer and to hold stuff while your wiggling around

 

to install pully and header should take you about 2 hours... header is totally easy. take off a few bolts, change header out, easy easy easy..
pully is a pain, but still not worth paying someone else to do.. get yourself a long breaker bar to loosen the pully bolt, and to loosen the bottom alt bolt, mine was tight as a virgin's bunghole - hardest part of the pulley install for me was getting that lower alt bolt loose to slacken the belts. you can easily get the belts tight enough when you re-install, just use the breaker bar or long screwdriver to pry the alt back to get tention on the belts. you will have to loosen the tentioner on the power stearing pully also, that bolt is right behind the ps pulley, you can go in through the slots in the pulley to get at it from the side. be sure to have plenty of locktite red on hand when installing the new pulley, you don't want the nuts coming loose from vibration.

 

how about the top and bottom gaskets on the header ? i can just use the ones from the stock piece and put them on the strup piece, correct ? or should i source some new ones from toyota ?

any recommended tools to make the job easier ? oh, and what jacks/jackstands do you guys use ? I'm looking for some reliable ones...

 

The manifold to head gasket is part# 17173-21020 and retails for $18.10 and the manifold to pipe gasket is part#17451-21030 and retails for $33.03
The header on yours is located towards the back of the engine, I'm sure you already know this. this creates a little more difficulty than the usual ones mounted towards the front, but not much more. Once you take of the heat shield from the top you will see how easy it really is. 2 things though. Make sure you use a good rust pentrant and spray all the bolts and nuts you will be removing. Nothing is worse than breaking a nut or bolt and the Dealer is closed or out of stock. Let that sit for a little before cranking on them. 5 mins should do. Make sure you at least get a new header to down pipe gasket because these are made from aluminum and ceramic and once used are no good (most of the time). that is the more expensive one and circular in shape. Use a hydraulic jack wit 4 jack stands. You can find these for around $100 at any Aftermarket auto parts retailer.

 

If you don't have one.. a short torque wrench...

I've read several threads of folks screwing the studs up or breaking bolts off. If you are not familiar with the word snug, and or do not have the "feeling" "tight enough", then get a torque wrench.. remember though, a short one.. the header flange bolts are tough to get at with a longer wrench and using a wobbler does not = a proper torque. You'll be close (which is probably good enough).. but torque specs are there for a reason

singleshot

 

make sure you mark where the alternator was positioned so that when you're done you can move it back to the correct place and avoid screeching belts

 

Do it yourself, you will save the money and the more you work on you box the easier it gets.