ok, i've been looking for as many specs as i can find on the 1NZ-FE. here is what i have. please post whatever you can find here as well. i'd like to compile a good list of features. thanks.

-1495 cubic centimeters
-75.0mm bore
-84.7mm (3.33-in) stroke
-dual overhead camshafts
(4 valves per cylinder via shimless bucket type tappets)
-valves inclined at 33.5°
-vane type VVT-i continuously variable intake valve timing device.
-valve diameters:
30.5 mm (1.20 in) for intake
25.5 mm (1.00 in) for exhast.
-cylinder block: aluminum with cast-in iron liners.
-cylinder and crankshaft centers are offset to reduce piston slapping.
-the NZ engine is placed transversely, canted rearward, with the intake side facing forward.
-the 1NZ-FE 1.5-L puts out 81 kW (110 hp) at 6000 rpm and 143 N•m (105 lb•ft) at 4200 rpm.


about the fuel system:
the scions have a fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter in the fuel tank. the returnless system means warm fuel from the engine bay does not return to the tank. the internal temperature of the fuel tank therefore stays cooler, reducing evaporative emissions.

about the VVT-i:
toyota’s intelligent continuously variable valve timing system is more advanced than the basic systems in some German luxury vehicles and Japanese small cars.
scions have the latest-generation TMC-developed vane-type VVT-i control, which debuted on Prius and Lexus IS200. VVT-i provides continual variations of the intake valve timing, to match the engine’s operating conditions. This improves performance and fuel efficiency, and reduces vibration on engine start-up and shut-down.

1NZ-FE's inlet timing can be varied over a range of 60 degrees relative to crankshaft angle, to provide optimum valve timing for the full range of driving conditions.

Inlet camshaft timing is varied according to engine revolutions, throttle position, engine coolant temperature and intake air volume. The maximum retard setting provides zero valve overlap. (There is a five degree period between the exhaust valve closing and inlet opening.) Inlet cam timing is set to the maximum retard position for engine start-up, operation at low engine temperature, idle and engine shut-down. The maximum advance setting provides 55 degrees of valve overlap.

VVT-i Activation:
the scion's VVT-i is a computer controlled and oil-pressure activated push- push type system. The engine ECU can command the system to advance or retard the inlet camshaft timing, thereby providing for faster response. The hardware is a camshaft timing oil control valve mounted adjacent to the inlet camshaft gear wheel and a VVT-i controller mechanism built onto the inlet camshaft timing gear. The camshaft timing oil control valve is a spool valve, controlled via a coil and plunger by the engine ECU. It can signal "advance", "hold" or "retard". The VVT-i controller consists of a housing on the front of the timing wheel, driven from the timing chain, and a four-bladed vane coupled with the intake camshaft.

when the engine ECU requires a change in inlet timing, it signals the oil control valve to provide oil pressure to either the advance or retard side of the four vane chambers. A locking pin in the controller locks the camshaft timing in the maximum retard position for engine start-up and immediately after start-up (until oil pressure is established) to prevent any knocking noise.

other features:

• a long-branch inlet system with resonator, to maximise low-to-mid range torque. The inlet system is made of plastic, to reduce heat transfer from the engine to the inlet charge and hence increase volumetric efficiency

• a plastic engine cover to reduce NVH and increase recyclability

• sequential fuel injection with multiple injector nozzles mounted in the inlet ports, for maximum fuel atomisation and reduced wall wetting

• a hot chip type air flow meter for the EFI, for more accurate air-flow measurement and hence more accurate fuel/air mixing

• stainless steel extractor-style exhaust headers, for maximum performance and durability, and lower emissions

• rearward-facing exhaust, which combines with double-walled front exhaust pipe to improve catalytic converter performance and hence reduce emissions. The catalytic converter has thinner walls to further improve heat-up rate and reduce emission

• a double ball-jointed exhaust pipe connector, to reduce NVH

• a two-stage muffler (as debuted in the Lexus range) to improve high rpm engine performance on the 1.5 litre sedan engine Additional fuel emission saving technology includes computer engine management, individual Toyota Direct Ignition for each of the four cylinders and electronic spark advance with a knock control system.

•the engine ECU determines the spark advance.

•serviceability improvements include Multiplex engine diagnostics (which can detect a malfunction and memorise details of the failure), a vertically installed oil filter and adoption of chain drive to the camshafts.

•the 8mm pitch roller cam chain has a lubricating oil jet and auto tensioner.

•the combustion chambers in the scion engine employ a tapered (oblique) squish design, to improve thermal efficiency and reduce the chance of engine knock (pre-ignition). the squish area has been shaped obliquely along the wall surface of the combustion chamber, improving airflow, promoting swirl and speeding flame travel.
the combustion chambers are almost entirely machined, to ensure minimum variation in combustion chamber volume across the four cylinders. special attention has been paid to cooling the combustion chamber, including provision of a water jacket between the exhaust port and the spark plug boss, to lower the operating temperature at the exhaust valve seat and improve cooling performance.

service mass of the 1NZ-FE engine is 187 pounds.

the 1497cm3 power plant delivers a class-leading 80kW (107HP) at 6000rpm and 142Nm of torque at 4200rpm. it has 16 percent more power and four percent more torque than the superseded 1.5 litre Paseo sports car. the capacity increase to 1497cm3 has been achieved by increasing the stroke from 73 to 84.7mm. unique features of the scions are its variable back-pressure muffler and slightly longer exhaust valve opening duration.

SCION MANUAL TRANSMISSION SUITS VVT-i TORQUE
scion xA and xB has a five-speed manual transmission, to suit the class-leading performance of its VVT-i-equipped engines.

clutch diameter is 212mm and facing area is 199cm2. the clutch has a diaphragm spring turnover mechanism to improve operability. the hydraulic control system for the clutch has an integrated reservoir tank and master cylinder to save weight and under-bonnet space.


sorry this was so long. i thought some of you might want to know.

damn, you posted a novel. now i got something to keep me company at lunch.

heres an internal view of the 1NZ-FE engine
http://stuph.com/v29/i/mouse_wheel_200x220.gif

here are some more accurate pictures, randy.

http://www.sae.org/automag/globalview_01-00/images/15.gif

http://www.sae.org/automag/globalview_01-00/images/17.gif

oops sorry, I meant to post this pic of the 1NZ-FE engine
http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/rubberband1.jpg

(quoting specs)...the Toyota C154 five-speed overdrive manual transmission has tall ratios for fourth and fifth gear. the ratios suit the high torque of scion's 1.5 litre 1NZ-FE engines

Tall ratios compared to what? A VW bus? 3000RPM in OD at 60MPH isn't exactly what i would call "tall"!

there is no overdrive with the manual transmission (unless you count 5th gear), therefore the gear ratios for the auto are totally different. i did not post any automatic tranny specs since i figured people with that transmission are not into performance or technical information. sorry.

actually, the manual tranny has pretty short gears, but 4th and 5th are fairly tall compared to the first 3 gears, which are very short.

there is no overdrive with the manual transmission (unless you count 5th gear), therefore the gear ratios for the auto are totally different. i did not post any automatic tranny specs since i figured people with that transmission are not into performance or technical information. sorry.

actually, the manual tranny has pretty short gears, but 4th and 5th are fairly tall compared to the first 3 gears, which are very short.

I was quoting the Scion specs which refer to a "5-speed overdrive transmission"

The term "overdrive" usually refers to a transmission ratio of less than 1:1. The Scion xB transmission ratios are 3.545 / 1.904 / 1.310 / 0.969 / 0.815, so both fourth and fifth are technically OD. However the 4.31 final drive ratio really shortens the gearing, so engine RPMs at cruise are quite high.

Of course real "overdrive" was a separate gearbox between the transmission and final drive. Fat chance of finding that on a Scion!

George

ha. calling it an overdrive is really a stretch. but if that's what they want to call it, ok. the gearing would be perfect if it was exactly the same but with a 6th gear, in my opinion. i love the short gearing but you run out of them so soon.

anyway, i think some of those tranny specs were from the echo, in which case it's a different thing altogether. so i think i will edit that part out. the engine stuff is all accurate though.

Wow! That's a pretty detailed description, thanks a lot for posting that here!

ha. calling it an overdrive is really a stretch. but if that's what they want to call it, ok. the gearing would be perfect if it was exactly the same but with a 6th gear, in my opinion. i love the short gearing but you run out of them so soon.

anyway, i think some of those tranny specs were from the echo, in which case it's a different thing altogether. so i think i will edit that part out. the engine stuff is all accurate though.

The Echo gearbox ratios are identical to the Scion ratios. It is the final drive ratio that is different. IMHO they went a little too far in the change, but with people putting larger diameter wheels on the car they probably didn't want it to get a reputation as a slug.

George

ok, here is more information from the japanese toyota website. sorry if the translation is a little off:

(1) 1.5 1NZ-FE VVT-i engine
Acquiring recognition from the national traffic ministry U-LEV of all the car domestic highest levels as "super - an exhaust car *3 low". VVT-i (continual variable valve timing mechanism) actualizing the inhalation of high efficiency. As for low and medium-speed limits powerful and smooth. Also acceleration efficiency in the high-speed limits is complete. It has contributed to also fuel economy of course low largely.

http://www.toyota.co.jp/Showroom/All_toyota_lineup/bB/mechanism/images/mecha01.jpg

1) BEAMS 1NZ-FE VVT-i
Maximum Power: NET 80kW (109PS)*1 /6,000r.p.m.
Maximum Torque: NET 141N m (14.4kg m)*2 /4,200r.p.m.
Displacement: 1.496L

In case of *1 4WD car, 77kW (105PS).
In case of *2 4WD car, 138N m (14.1kg m).
*3 2000 standard exhaust 75% decrease level

- BEAMS: Breakthrough Engine with Advanced Mechanism System
(The same aerodynamic volume displacement class worldwide top-level engine which assures the harmony with the society)
- VVT-i: Variable Valve Timing-intelligent (continual variable valve timing mechanism)


by the way, here is the error message you get if you type in a bad link:


Very much, there is no excuse, but there is no corresponding page.
We guide to the top page.

This page as for the one which is registered to the book mark,
It is the number of hands, but we request the modification of the book mark.

The Toyota Motor Corporation corporation

Furthermore, this page jumps automatically 5 seconds later.
* When it does not jump automatically, please click the above-mentioned link.

"about the fuel system:
the scions have a fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter in the fuel tank. the returnless system means warm fuel from the engine bay does not return to the tank. the internal temperature of the fuel tank therefore stays cooler, reducing evaporative emissions.
"

That's what they say.....but to me, I think it saves the MFG some money because now they don't need to run fuel lines back to the tank. Seriously here now....if they can save literally $2.00 per car, they will.

i think saving money is important, but reducing emissions is more important, which is probably the main motivating factor for the returnless fuel system. i see a lot of other ways toyota could have cut costs on the xB and they didn't so i am thinking it's an emissions thing.

i think saving money is important, but reducing emissions is more important, which is probably the main motivating factor for the returnless fuel system. i see a lot of other ways toyota could have cut costs on the xB and they didn't so i am thinking it's an emissions thing.

The fuel return is a vestage of the old days when it was used to fight vapor lock. If the fuel lines got too hot the fuel would vaporize and the engine-mounted fuel pump wouldn't pump the vapor. The carb would run out of gas and there you would sit until the lines cooled and the vapor condensed into something the pump could pump.

With FI, a return allows more precise control of fuel pressure at the engine, but it is no longer needed for vapor lock, as the fuel is under pressure all the way from the tank. Apparently Toyota figured out a way to control fuel pressure adequately from the tank end.

George

hyundai, mazda, and honda also have returnless fuel systems in some engines i believe. must be the new thing.

How to improve the performance on the NZ engine? Specs as repeated from above:
1495 cubic centimeters
-75.0mm bore
-84.7mm (3.33-in) stroke
-dual overhead camshafts
(4 valves per cylinder via shimless bucket type tappets)
-valves inclined at 33.5°
-vane type VVT-i continuously variable intake valve timing device.
-valve diameters:
30.5 mm (1.20 in) for intake
25.5 mm (1.00 in) for exhast.
-cylinder block: aluminum with cast-in iron liners.
-cylinder and crankshaft centers are offset to reduce piston slapping.
-the NZ engine is placed transversely, canted rearward, with the intake side facing forward.
-the 1NZ-FE 1.5-L puts out 81 kW (110 hp) at 6000 rpm and 143 N•m (105 lb•ft) at 4200 rpm.



Enlarge the bore? - is there room? Custom pistons will be required if factory does not have a larger bore for this engine type.
Increase the compression ratio? Currently the ratio is 10.5:1 but this could be increased with new pistons or by lowering the deck by machining the head.
Increase the stroke? - already done! However it might could be extended a bit more, but by working the numbers it is already near the limit. Otherwise it will actually rob power.
It is already a dual overhead cam design so that is good.
New cams? - more lift and/or longer duration. These probably already exsist in Japan. Most likely will interfer with the VVT-i though.
More valves? - 5 valve design? Like the 4A-GE 5valve JDM engine? Very hard to do in your garage! Best bet there is beg Toyota to produce a new head design.
Valves at a differing angle? - GE head design has the valves at 43 degrees! This design has a better flow , especially for higher rpm. Again ask Toyota for a GE head for the NZ.
Larger valves? - Possible! It might be possible to use valves from the ZZ engine and have the head reworked. This would be a lot of work and would be rather expensive but might be a possible performance increase. The valve sizes for the ZZ-FE are 32.0 mm (1.26 in) for intake and 27.5 mm (1.08 in) for exhaust.
Modify the VVT-i? - Dual VVT-i or a programable controller? The Engine used in the JDM Altezza engine has dual VVT-i , one on the intake and one on the exaust , this allows for even more adjustability. The VVT-i is controlled by the ECM and so it would be possible to build an electronic adjustable controller. I know they have them for the Honda design but I am not sure if they are available for Toyota's. This would be a great upgrade as it is easy to install , just replace the computer{if it is adjustable by programming then it would need to be tuned but even that is not that hard}.
Some other ideas:
Headers - duh!
New intake manifold?
Larger throttle body
Oil cooler{does not give more performance but protects engine and keep it cooler allowing it to perform at it's best}
Cold air box{yes a box!}Just changing the air filter is not going to add much{even the claims of 6-10Hp are exagerations}However a true cold-air box will keep the hot engine compartment air from heating up the incoming air.
Better ignition system{does not really give much more power but allows the engine to run more efficently and smoother and allows it to rev a bit higher}
Turbo or supercharger
Many more minor things but they wouldn't give more than an extra HP or two.

you forgot the most important thing...changing the rod ratio. that is the secret to getting lots of horsepower from a N/A engine.

i know for a fact that with the right tuning, you can make a scion with a 1NZ-FE faster than if it had a stock or slightly modified VVLT-i celica/matrix engine. you could totally put a deck plate on the 1NZ-FE and increase displacement to at least 1.8 liters. maybe more. there is a lot that can be done. it would just cost several thousand dollars. an engine as light as the 1NZ with 200whp would be awesome though.

you forgot the most important thing...changing the rod ratio. that is the secret to getting lots of horsepower from a N/A engine.

I will be honest and say - what is "rod ratio"? and to what do you "ratio" it to? If you are saying rod length then that I would understand. I think this is what you are saying = longer rods but the stock crank then raise the deck to prevent the pistons from bashing into it. Is that it? Yes you are right this would increase displacement and thus increase HP , but it would be far more work and money that it would be worth. 200 HP is capable from just a good turbo or supercharger with the bottom end mods to hold it. I also forgot a different very important thing , head work - a three angle valve job , reshaping the ports and even the combustion chamber{or adding material if that is what is needed}. Proper squash is very critical for getting the most out of any engine. The head is easy to get to and can be removed without pulling the engine and it would only cost $500 or so - or do-it-yourself and save some{although the valves should be done by a shop unless you have the proper equipment}.

the rod ratio is a calculated number based on the stroke and the connecting rod length. i am not going to lie and say i know everything about engines and engine design, but here is some info i found on the internet somewhere:

-------------------------------------
Rod ratio is the center to center length of the connecting rod, in relation
to the stroke. For example an engine with a 6 inch long rod and and 3 inch
stroke would be classified as having a 2 to 1 ratio.
While there are different opinions on the ideal ratio, something close to 2
to 1 is considered to be optimum by most "experts", at least for a high rpm
engine.
Rod length has an affect on breathing, cylinder wall loading and friction
and where peak torque and horsepower are produced. A long rod runs at less
of an angle, in relation to the cylinder bore and puts less side loading on
the piston skirt. Also, since the piston is less likely to rock in the bore,
ring sealing is better too. The other advantage is that with a long rod, the
piston has more dwell time, at TDC and BDC. This allows more time (in
crankshaft degree) for cylinder filling, combustion and scavenging. This is
especially so, when the camshaft timing has been designed with the rod
length to stroke ratio taken into consideration. A camshaft that has been
desighned as ideal, for a given ratio, may not perform at it's best in
another engine, with a diferent rod ratio.There are trade offs too, with a
long rod. Firstly there is the weight of the rod. Obviously, a long rod is
heavier than a short rod. While a long rod engine will generally rev higher
and make peak power at a higher rpm, than a short rod motor, the actual
weight of the rod becomes an issue. Secondly, a long rod requires a higher
deck height and/or a shorter piston and a physically larger and heavier
engine to make room for the rod. That's it in a nut shell, or at least, my
understanding of things.

We learn something new everyday! I hadn't heard about that ratio and neither had my dad who used to be a mechanic and race car builder. It must be a newer term and way of thinking. I do see how it can affect the engine and to be honest I wouldn't try messing with that. Toyota engineers have probably gotten that ratio to it's peak for all around performance and unless the engine was being built for out and out competition shouldn't be messed with. It will be interesting to see what parts and modifications become available. How far can the NZ be pushed? what is the most power/torque that can be squezed out of it?

we don't know the limits of the 1NZ-FE engine yet, but i'm sure someone is going to find out soon enough. new advanves in engine design and building are always popping up, which is why you see 1500cc cars with 110hp. there are tons of bigger engines with a lot less power. or how about the old vw beetle engine? those had around 36hp, and had enough power to get people around. i think 110hp in a light car is a good starting point to make a fun, quick little car. top end will never be like a big V8 or 4 cylinder with 2.5l or more, but with the low weight, you can really get the scions to fly. i think it just requires good engine design.

there are civics running 10 second quarter miles with normally aspirated engines. how do the guys running 12 second supercharged V8 mustangs explain that?

Hey , my Focus is 2.0 liter with a 110 hp. The only good thing about it is its 125 tq. But its an overall BAD design , it only has 8 valves!!

heres an internal view of the 1NZ-FE engine
http://stuph.com/v29/i/mouse_wheel_200x220.gif

I had a feeling Randy would post something like this......... :lol:

Thanks eric for the breakdown on the engine info!

and thanks to everyone for the feedback too!

this give me a lot to read about to learn more about my xB....

Truth is, "There's no substitute for cubic inches." Install the engine from the Corrolla or the 1.8 from the Celica!
I'm quite satisfied with my 1NZ-FE engine with the AEM cold air intake, TRD axle-back exhaust and oil filter, Royal Purple synthetic motor oil and gearbox lube to lower friction. An engine is simply an 'air pump'. Make it's job of pumping air easier, with less restriction, and it'll breathe deeper and give more flexible power.
I'm looking for a larger throttle body!

Actually overdrive isn't an extra gear it is a device that is added to the transmission before the connection to the driveshaft. it feel like and extra gear but itsn't.

Truth is, "There's no substitute for cubic inches." Install the engine from the Corrolla or the 1.8 from the Celica!
I'm quite satisfied with my 1NZ-FE engine with the AEM cold air intake, TRD axle-back exhaust and oil filter, Royal Purple synthetic motor oil and gearbox lube to lower friction. An engine is simply an 'air pump'. Make it's job of pumping air easier, with less restriction, and it'll breathe deeper and give more flexible power.
I'm looking for a larger throttle body!

kind of. you can't just go balls out on the intake and exhaust of a N/A engine though. it won't be as efficient. you have to design it to bring in and exhale a specified amount of air to get the power and efficiency you want. that's why there is continuously variable valve timing on the intake cam. on a turbo engine, you can have a 1" intake and 1" exhaust to and from the turbo, but on our car you cannot do that, even though you could consider that "less restriction". anyway, everyone is talking about putting the 1.8 engine in the scions, but i have yet to see pictures. i wish people would stop talking about how much better it would be, and just start doing it. it's always the people who aren't online who do the coolest stuff to their cars.

it's always the people who aren't online who do the coolest stuff to their cars.

BURN...on me

damn you meanie

it's always the people who aren't online who do the coolest stuff to their cars.
BURN...on me
damn you meanie

i'm online too.

it's always the people who aren't online who do the coolest stuff to their cars.
BURN...on me
damn you meanie

i'm online too.

Remember we had that talk awhiles back and this totally suits us now.

Me too... :P

Adding a longer rod simply won't increase displacement. To increase c.c. you need a longer throw ( or crankshaft stroke.) There has been lots of article on rod ratio advantages and disadvantages, certainly it would effect the way an engine "feels" but I have not read enough to understand all of the science behind it. Also keep in mind if you do switch to longer rods you will need new pistons with a shorter compression height ($) and you will need to rebalance everything. There are also ongoing studies on (rotating assembly) Center Of Gravity location and the affect on engine performance.

Quench area is also very important to cylinder combustion. does anyone have any pics of the head or the pistons? I would love to see them.

I personally think a good valve job is worth its weight in gold, I have only seen better flow and power gains from proper backcuts. How do the Toyota valves look from the factory?

10.5 CR is a bit too high for much more than 5psig boost without proffesional tuning. In the future, will Scion release a motor designed for higher boost? (like the turbo vitz?) With a lower CR and wider ring gaps?

I/H/E mods will be great for this car, but I wonder if a larger cam will ever come out for it? As any change in duration will require new programming.

http://www.remus.dti.ne.jp/~pochiinu/001Vitz-TechInfo/Taco/0411NZ-EGSC.jpg

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/urltrurl?lp=ja_en&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.remus.dti.ne.jp%2F%7Epochiinu%2F002Vitz-DIY%2F..%2F001Vitz-TechInfo%2FTaco%2F040EngineSpecCurve.htm

even Ford mustangs have had returnless fuel lines, since 1999

Actually overdrive isn't an extra gear it is a device that is added to the transmission before the connection to the driveshaft. it feel like and extra gear but itsn't.

Uh, not really.

"Overdrive" simple means that the last gear on an automatic, actually lowers RPM instead of being a multiplier of the final drive, i.e. 1st-4th take the final drive and are multiples of that ratio. a 1:1 would mean that if your final drive is 4.11, then in that gear what you're getting is 4.11, where as overdrive might give you effectively a 3.90 or something like that.

even Ford mustangs have had returnless fuel lines, since 1999


Another advantage of returnless fuel lines not mentioned yet is that by keeping fuel cooler, they increase it's density slightly. That's better for making power. A mariginal difference, but it matters. Notice that drag racers and other performance applications will actually super cool their fuel before a run. That is why.

Same principle as cooling the intake charge, it increases density of air or fuel which means more mass/volume. More air + more fuel = more power.

I've even heard of people modifying their cars to make the fuel lines returnless. One reason they use the return is it's supposed to help the engine warm up faster, but I'm not so sure about that.

Actually overdrive isn't an extra gear it is a device that is added to the transmission before the connection to the driveshaft. it feel like and extra gear but itsn't.


Ah.. I got it. :idea:

I was thinking of the lockup torque converter on an automatic transmission. That would make sense in the context you are using. You are 100% right about the manual transmission overdrive being a mechanical unit bolted to the rear of the transmission, it will reduce the engine speed by about one-third, while maintaining the same road speed.

what if i changed the diff. gear ratio to about 4.355:1 with 5th gear @ 0.815 that should bring the final drive down to about 3.55:1 wouldn't that also help with the MPG???

Making the gearing # lower would in ideal increase MPG. There is a point though where you could gear tranny to low & that would cause more bad then good. I found out earlier today that JDM xA has a 185/65-15 Tire. So by the american market putting a 185/60-15 changes the gearing a little. So just by running a taller tire you lower your gearing a little. Also by changing your gearing you increase the overall time it will take you to get to speed. I read in this thread that @ 60mph the engine is at 3,000RPM!! I drove a v6 stang & that was at about 1,800RPM @ 60. I got near 3,000 when doing 85 in that thing. I know the Stang has more HP & more so TQ. So if you could change the gearing so the engine does about 2,200 @ 60mph that would be a drop of 800RPM of engine work. Might only raise gas milage by like 2% but every bit helps. Sorry for the very long reply to such a simple question.

eric and risin sun,
very interesting, thxs fellows.

...the gear ratios for the auto are totally different.
i did not post any automatic tranny specs since i figured people
with that transmission are not into performance or technical information. sorry.

What! :shock:
Not true at all. Just because we have an Auto
doesn't mean we are not into performance or technical information.

Remember, you *can* shift an automatic, you just don't have to.
If you have the info on the auto, please share.

BTW: thanks for the great info!
:D

Anyone know if this block is Open or Closed Deck? If closed deck then getting lower compression pistions would be a good option, no need for re-sleeving.

I'm debating wether or not to do up my Echo (05 Echo hatch that I bought as my daily driver/winter beater ;) ) Or to just keep building my Civic.

Civic is a great platform for a fast car however, I REALLY like the Echo and I think I rather do this up but it being a new car and not many people modding them (hardcore engine mods) is a little scary for me.

It's so "cookie cutter" on the Civic to get good power.

This engine is good, 1.5L DOHC with the technology it has..a lot of people have 200-300whp in the 1.6L SOHC honda motors or even the 1.5L SOHC Vtec JDM honda motor.

Let's get some people develloping engine parts!!

heres an internal view of the 1NZ-FE engine
http://stuph.com/v29/i/mouse_wheel_200x220.gif

I have to agree. The specs are awesome and one of the reasons I bought the car. The actual performance is more comparable to the illustration. LMAO

How to improve the performance on the NZ engine? Specs as repeated from above:
1495 cubic centimeters
-75.0mm bore
-84.7mm (3.33-in) stroke
<snip>
-the 1NZ-FE 1.5-L puts out 81 kW (110 hp) at 6000 rpm and 143 N•m (105 lb•ft) at 4200 rpm.



Probably the best thing to do would be to scrap it and start from a clean slate. Here, lets compare to another, common small engine:

1299cc
-81.0mm bore
-63.0mm stroke
-11:1 compression ratio
-129kW (175hp) at 9800rpm
-141Nm at 7000rpm

You'll note that the torque is quite close to the 1NZ-FE while the horsepower is significantly higher even though it's 200cc smaller. So, why can't Toyota design an engine like this? Suzuki several ago, and now some 1.0L engines are at about this level of horsepower. Yeah, I know emissions are much more lax on motorcycles, but I still think there's lots of room for improvement.

Of course, it's not performance that draws us to the Scions. I want an xB in spite of it's unexciting engine.

How to improve the performance on the NZ engine? Specs as repeated from above:
1495 cubic centimeters
-75.0mm bore
-84.7mm (3.33-in) stroke
<snip>
-the 1NZ-FE 1.5-L puts out 81 kW (110 hp) at 6000 rpm and 143 N•m (105 lb•ft) at 4200 rpm.



Probably the best thing to do would be to scrap it and start from a clean slate. Here, lets compare to another, common small engine:

1299cc
-81.0mm bore
-63.0mm stroke
-11:1 compression ratio
-129kW (175hp) at 9800rpm
-141Nm at 7000rpm

You'll note that the torque is quite close to the 1NZ-FE while the horsepower is significantly higher even though it's 200cc smaller. So, why can't Toyota design an engine like this? Suzuki several ago, and now some 1.0L engines are at about this level of horsepower. Yeah, I know emissions are much more lax on motorcycles, but I still think there's lots of room for improvement.

Of course, it's not performance that draws us to the Scions. I want an xB in spite of it's unexciting engine.

Well one problem with that is that a car that reaches its peak torque at 7000 rpm is going to be irritating as f*ck to drive and pretty worthless. Add to that the big bore and short stroke and you've got a formula for a car that will sit on its ___ off the line and be annoyingly slow to drive unless you flog the crap out of it, then by the time you finally reach the RPMS where a normal car should be redlining, you get a sudden kick in the ___.

In a word, it would suck.

How to improve the performance on the NZ engine? Specs as repeated from above:
1495 cubic centimeters
-75.0mm bore
-84.7mm (3.33-in) stroke
<snip>
-the 1NZ-FE 1.5-L puts out 81 kW (110 hp) at 6000 rpm and 143 N•m (105 lb•ft) at 4200 rpm.



Probably the best thing to do would be to scrap it and start from a clean slate. Here, lets compare to another, common small engine:

1299cc
-81.0mm bore
-63.0mm stroke
-11:1 compression ratio
-129kW (175hp) at 9800rpm
-141Nm at 7000rpm

You'll note that the torque is quite close to the 1NZ-FE while the horsepower is significantly higher even though it's 200cc smaller. So, why can't Toyota design an engine like this? Suzuki several ago, and now some 1.0L engines are at about this level of horsepower. Yeah, I know emissions are much more lax on motorcycles, but I still think there's lots of room for improvement.

Of course, it's not performance that draws us to the Scions. I want an xB in spite of it's unexciting engine.

Well one problem with that is that a car that reaches its peak torque at 7000 rpm is going to be irritating as f*ck to drive and pretty worthless. Add to that the big bore and short stroke and you've got a formula for a car that will sit on its ___ off the line and be annoyingly slow to drive unless you flog the crap out of it, then by the time you finally reach the RPMS where a normal car should be redlining, you get a sudden kick in the ___.

In a word, it would suck.

That sounds just like a S2k....hum....we should try it...

If you want performance then you must sacrafice something, and that usually is drivability.

I agree thanks for the information.

nice talk
Good info
An extra engine to modify would be awesome :pray:

:bow:

So to n.a tune the internals of 1NZFE is like nearly impossible???

How to improve the performance on the NZ engine? Specs as repeated from above:
1495 cubic centimeters
-75.0mm bore
-84.7mm (3.33-in) stroke
<snip>
-the 1NZ-FE 1.5-L puts out 81 kW (110 hp) at 6000 rpm and 143 N•m (105 lb•ft) at 4200 rpm.



Probably the best thing to do would be to scrap it and start from a clean slate. Here, lets compare to another, common small engine:

1299cc
-81.0mm bore
-63.0mm stroke
-11:1 compression ratio
-129kW (175hp) at 9800rpm
-141Nm at 7000rpm

You'll note that the torque is quite close to the 1NZ-FE while the horsepower is significantly higher even though it's 200cc smaller. So, why can't Toyota design an engine like this?

They could, but why? How about this combination:

599cc four cylinder 16 valve
109bhp @ 12500rpm. Torque 63Nm @ 10000rpm

(it comes bolted into a Honda CBR600)

Yep, it makes the same HP as our stock Scion engine with less than half the displacement!

Would I want to drive it? No way! Having to row an 8-speed gearbox to keep the thing on its narrow powerband would be a colossal pain! Perhaps the coffee-can exhaust crowd might like it for the sound, but as a driver, forget it. I don't even like to take my xB past 5000RPM.

Small high-revving engines works fine in a motorcycle application because the rider seldom needs 100+ horsepower, but in an automotive application the driver would call upon the full capability more often.

Other vehicles have made the mistake of using high-revving engines. Both the Ford Taurus SHO (Yamaha engine) and Toyota's own Matrix XRS turned out to be disappointingly pokey unless their drivers were willing to scream the engines.

Remember that the Scion was designed as a urban vehicle for Japanese streets, using as many of the original Echo drivetrain as possible. Yes, we got a very close-to-JDM vehicle here, but we got some JDM disadvantages as well!

There is no substitute for cubic inches.

what would you need to do to remove the vvti? and put in some lumpy cams?

would that not be better?

What is the Final drive ratio on the Manual XB?

what would you need to do to remove the vvti? and put in some lumpy cams?

would that not be better?

No it would not be better.

That is the entire point of valve timing. To eliminate the compromises forced by choosing cams for low, mid or high RPM power.

If you wanted to make it better, then they could have VVT-i on both cams, or upgrade to VVTL-i. A VVTL-i 1NZFE could probably make closer to 130 hp without sacrificing a significant amount of fuel economy (if any) but it's cost prohibitive in such a cheap car so don't count on it.

What is the Final drive ratio on the Manual XB?

4.30 : 1

Does anyone know the firing order for the 1NZ? Yea, inknow I could go ou to the car and check ... but I am at work and it's too cold.

Never mind ... another day and it got warmer.

Is the 1NZFE a toyota design and manufacture or is it out sourced? I understand it's a BEAM design which is a Yamaha product/design. Anyone know? Thanks, i have a debate going with my father in law.

Does anyone know the center-to-center bore spacing on the 1nz-fe or maybe overall dimensions? Most concerned about overall length. Thanks.

does anyone know the stock compression ratio?

If I am not mistaken, 10.5:1.

if i remmember correctly the 1NZ had a timing chain opposed to a timing belt as most manufacturers choose to use

wait, your saying that they have a BEAMS 1NZ-FE?

are the USDM BEAMS or just the JDM?

i have heard that they are going to be putting out a dual vvt i 1nzfe in europe. we are looking at the vitz rs turbo, as a possible swap. Im not sure what the specs but im waiting to see more.

I love these little motors, Im thinking about looking at the turbo vitz rs for specs, see how close that is and swap it!

thanks alot of info ... :D

does anyone know the weight of just the engine?

very useful information...

:question: isn't the turbo vitz a 1.3l 2nz series engine :question:


the yaris sr in the uk uses 1.8l 2ZR-FE is this the same as new XD scion engine

:idea: if base yasis uses 1NZ-FE and 2ZR-FE fits ..... could / has some one done the swap :pray:

I forgot to mention specs @ http://toyota.co.uk/vs2/pdf/YA3_63_spec.pdf
127 lb/ft tqs
133 hp factory

A quote by a VITZ RS Turbo owner in the UK
`m an owner of a Vitz (Yaris) RS import equipped with the 1.3 2nz-fe. Although this is quite a lively unit (i`ve heard also that the 2nz-fe on the rs develops102bhp -anyone heard of it??, instead of the usual 86bhp), i`d like to swap the engine with the TRD 1nz-fe version which was turboed developing 150bhp.
http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?s=2c42f9000399b7675ae5283d60e9c2be&showtopic=67877&pid=681323&st=0&#entry681323
I know :blah:

I think what the tranny needs is a six speed, but not to shorten the other gears keep them the same just add another gear. Or if the 6spd from the corrolla rs matches up? At 3000rpm and only going 60 is a problem, although I've taken that gear to 100.

C/D says that the 1NZ-FE is governed at 109mph, but I have personally taken mine to 113 and I've heard of them hitting peaks of 125. Is it the mods that make it run faster? Also Maybe its not "governed" but with the gear ratios it just doesnt have anymore to go. But then again 113-125mph

i own an o7 manual yaris with bolt-ons and ive been past 115 before. im told we're governed to 118 but i feel my car at least can go past this....

There is no substitute for cubic inches.

People in this thread keep saying that. Yes it's true, but that way everyone words it irks the CRAP out of me. :tap:

It goes like this: "There is no replacement for displacement!"

There is no substitute for cubic inches.

People in this thread keep saying that. Yes it's true, but that way everyone words it irks the CRAP out of me. :tap:

It goes like this: "There is no replacement for displacement!"

Sorry, I didn't know that there was a rhyming requirement. :eyebrow:

yall going up too 115 my car tends to get floaty upfront so yeah

This is a great write up, lots and lots of info.

limit on a 1nz-fe engine w/ stock internals is 149hp. after that the rods are the first to go. Ptuning determined that themselves on thier own dyno lol.

how much can the stock internals handle to the wheel?