CREDITS: Written by nacy333. If you used this article and it helped, shoot him an email or a PM and thank him! Big credit goes out to Randy West. As well as being a big time porn star back in the 80s, he also really knows his stuff when it comes to this. He's done 32 sets of springs now and continues to provide a big service to So Cal Scion owners...remember, he does it for free for TSW members. Also thanks to Ernesto for providing the testing vehicle. And to Kristal (Randy's wife) for keeping the beer cold and making fun of us while we worked out stuff. Again, if you don't feel confident in changing your springs and are in the SoCal area, just PM Randy (he's gonna set a world record ya know).

DISCLAIMER: Scionlife.com does not take any responsibility in what you do to your car. This FAQ could be filled with incorrect information. You could be voiding your warranty if not installed by a certified mechanic or dealership. It is quite possible that you can totally mess up your car by using this as a guide to install your springs. This can result in serious bodily injury, death, dismemberment, sexually transmitted diseases and so forth to you and anybody else in case of an accident resulting from failure to take safety precautions and/or following the instructions in this write-up.

Get Ready:

Nut Sizes: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm

Tools: Floor Jack, Jack Stands, Sockets and Wrenches in above sizes, Flathead Screwdriver
Optional: Latex Gloves, Impact Wrench, Corona Extra, Tylenol, Toyota Mechanic

Buddies Required (Not including yourself): One (you can have more but they will only make fun of you, drink your beer and eat your snacks)

Rear Installation:

1. Once you get the rear of the car jacked up, it is not necessary to take off the rear wheels, you can do it without doing so but it makes it alot easier, especially if you don't know what you're doing (as evidenced in the following pictures).

2. Once you have one side of the rear up take off the Shock nut (17mm) that attaches the Rear shock and Suspension.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/Rear01.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/Rear01.jpg)

3. Once you've taken off the nut, proceed to 'jiggle' the shock loose of the bolt that it is attached to until it is completely off.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/Rear02.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/Rear02.jpg)

4. If you have the whole rear of the car lifted, just pump the jack a few more times and the springs should pop right out, if not push down on the rear brake drum brake body and have your buddy (see requirements) pull out the spring.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/Rear03.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/Rear03.jpg)

5. Remember to take care full note of which way the rubber grommets fit back in the assembly before you remove the springs completely. The top grommet should have the indented holes section facing upwards.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/Rear04.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/Rear04.jpg)

6. When placing the new springs into the assembly be sure that it aligns with the top rubber grommet to fit in place with the stop on the grommet.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/Rear05.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/Rear05.jpg)


You can now put the rear suspsension back together. See how easy that was?! Just take note that as with the front, springs will not settle into the proper drop right away. In most cases, it takes about 2 weeks to properly settle to the proper height, though most of the rear will settle while you're working on the front springs.


Front Installation:

First things first. Do you have an air gun to undo the big nut (god I love that term!) in the front strut? If you don't, or hell, even if you do, I would recommend loosening the strut nut that compresses the spring down before you remove the front strut assembly - you'll see why later in this FAQ and I'll point it out before you have to.

As usual, we are not going to go into detail on how to jack up the car and remove the wheels, but you better do it now before you go to the removal steps. Put the car on jack stands so it doesn't fall on your face.

1. Under the hood: Remove the rubber dust cap that covers the top of each strut tower.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front02.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front02.jpg)


2. If you are using hand tools then you should start by loosening the large 17mm nut a bit to make it easier in the long run. If you don't do it now then its a real pain in the ___ later. Just loosen it a little, don't remove it!
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front03.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front03.jpg)

3. Remove the nuts (12mm) at the top of the struts. The one hiding in the rear is a real pain in the ___ though and cannot be removed with a normal socket wrench. Manual labor time.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front01.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front01.jpg)

4. Disconnect the front brake line housing that attaches it to the front strut by removing the bolt (14mm) in this picture.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front04.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front04.jpg)
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front05.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front05.jpg)


5. Use a flathead screwdriver to undo the clip that holds in place the ABS sensor line.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front06.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front06.jpg)

6. Use a 19mm socket to remove the 2 lower bolts that attaches the strut to the lower arm.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front07.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front07.jpg)


7. Disassemble the strut and lower arm assembly and remove the strut from the car.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front08.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front08.jpg)


8. The front strut is now off the car and randy goes for a little finger dip action where its nice and lubricated (not neccessary and completely optional). You'll need to remove some of this lubricant when you remove that big nut(!).
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front09.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front09.jpg)

9. While holding down the front strut firmly in place go ahead and remove the big nut from the front strut. *When the nut comes off, part of the assembly will spring out, do not be surprised and take precaution as to where both ends of the strut are pointed.*
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front10.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front10.jpg)


10. Be sure to take note of the order of the front strut assembly. It's the strut rubber housing, the metal plate, a paper-like thick bushing, and the top plastic housing.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front11.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front11.jpg)


11. When putting the new spring in, make sure that end meets up with the lower stop on the strut.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front12.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front12.jpg)


12. The arrow on the rubber housing should be point outward of the car - in this case, facing in the same direction as those 2 forks on the lower part of the strut (the ones that hold the lower part of the strut to the lower arm).
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front13.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front13.jpg)


13. When you place the top metal portion of the strut assembly on, make sure that the side labeled 'OUT' is facing the outside of the car (same as with the rubber boot cover housing).
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front14.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front14.jpg)


14. When you're done with that, place on the paper-like bushing and then the top of the strut assembly housing on the strut and have someone push down on the assembly while another places the big nut back in the strut.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front15.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front15.jpg)
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front15a.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front15a.jpg)


15. Go ahead and tighten up the big nut, you do not need to do this all the way as you should tighten it more after you've placed the strut back in the car.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front16.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front16.jpg)


16. Put the strut back in. It helps while someone holds it down in place on the bottom while someone helps to guid the top strut into place.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front17.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front17.jpg)


17. Place and tighten up the screws that hold the top of the strut into place.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front18.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front18.jpg)


18. Replace the bolts that attach the shock assembly to the suspension. They should be inserted in the front and the nuts secured to it from the rear like the top not in this photo. (from the front passenger side)
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front20.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front20.jpg)


Anyways, after you put into place the two lower bolts that hold the strut to the lower arm, remember to put the ABS sensor line back on the clip and to bolt on the front brake line housing to the strut. Once you've done that you're all done and you can continue to the other side!

Wow the rear is much easier than I thought it would be. The Toyota instructions tell you to even undo the brake line and all that crap. But apparently one bolt is all it takes on each side to take out the spring.

Wow the rear is much easier than I thought it would be. The Toyota instructions tell you to even undo the brake line and all that crap. But apparently one bolt is all it takes on each side to take out the spring.
thats so they can charge you 4 hours labor. :wink:

i'm actually gonna put this guide to use tomorrow ;)...pray for me...j/k :lol:

JC

i'm actually gonna put this guide to use tomorrow ;)...pray for me...j/k :lol:

JC
dude, call me up if ya get stuck. i'll walk you through it.

no prob man ;)..will do 8)

JC

I will be doing this today, I will be calling you if I have any problems.

Randode is the Scion King!!!! Instructions were very easy to follow and very detailed. Don't waste your money paying $300 & up for the dealer or shop to install. If i could do it, anyone can.

i looked at this for reference when i did my spring install. the rear literally only takes about 20mins total. it consists of two bolts.

Its even easier to do the front suspension bolts (3 on top per strut) when you take out the windshield wiper assembly and tray. :)

Then you can use sockets on all 3 bolts instead of working hard with those manual tools. The tray comes out very easily!

super clear, super simple directions. i read them over 3 or 4 times and then lost them. i think i must have left them at work or something. instead of looking them up again, i decided to use the force and just go for it. my 12 year old son and i cranked it out in less than 2 hours. the springs we installed are tanabe df210s. they dropped the xb perfectly (around 2 inches) and retained much of the stock ride. thanks for the great info!

mark

What happened to the bump stops? My Eibach Pro-kit came with two bump stops for the front springs. Instructions say to replace them with the Eibach ones. Did I just miss it? :?:

What happened to the bump stops? My Eibach Pro-kit came with two bump stops for the front springs. Instructions say to replace them with the Eibach ones. Did I just miss it? :?:

When we had originally did up this little FAQ there were no springs out on the market that included bump stops. If however, you received bump stops with your aftermarket springs, by all means replace your factory bump stops with the aftermarket parts.

awsome instuctions...thanks alot, although id perfer New Castle over Corona, the intruction will come handy next week when i install my springs..thanks again!
_Ryan

awsome instuctions...thanks alot, although id perfer New Castle over Corona, the intruction will come handy next week when i install my springs..thanks again!
_Ryan

I've lost my love for Newcastle, and have diverted my affections to the new newcastle...Heffeweisen, though I'm slowly being tempted away by Stella.

Corona, however, will always be my steady.

Anyway, I'm just waiting for Randy and Krystal to head back to California for vacation one of these days so we can get drunk again so we can get drunk and make up something to install.

Anyway, I'm just waiting for Randy and Krystal to head back to California for vacation one of these days so we can get drunk again so we can get drunk and make up something to install.
soon my friend, soon.

I just finished installing Tein S.Techs on my xB and I must say that this walkthrough was amazing! Thanks a million!

anyone got any instructions for doing this with adjustable coilovers? how hard is it gonna be without air tools?

I told you last week at the meet to search the tech section. Anyways here it is.

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20764


Quack Quack

nah man thats a different setup and my damn front coilover sleeves arent big enough to get around the portion that secures the insides of the strut from coming apart. i guess theyre just crappy. my loss i suppose too bad now my back is dumped and my front is at stock height

If you cherish your life you would use a strut spring compressor so that the spring does not fly off and kill you. Which it can, It happened to a guy my dad knew.

If you cherish your life you would use a strut spring compressor so that the spring does not fly off and kill you. Which it can, It happened to a guy my dad knew.
it is possible for the spring to fly off and kill you. Just not on an xB.
I've done 40 Scion spring installs now, and have never had one fly off.

what about a coilover kits that doesn't include the front strut??? like... its just prings and the threaded adjuster??? will they fit the front strut? the ones im looking at are made by ROKU Creation never heard of them before... there is another set i found on ebay made by K2motor.... im not sure if they are ripp offs or not

took me 50 minutes and I didnt even read this beforehand. :)

How different would this install be on a tC and would changing the shocks be as simple as placing the new springs on the new shocks once you take everything apart?

I ordered TRD springs for my xA RS and I'll be installing them next weekend. Is this pretty much the same as the xB?

I will be using all hand tools - any issues with doing that?

Thanks!

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I used them to install my trd's.

Although loosening the top strut nut before removing the strut/spring assembly is mentioned at the begining of the instructions for the front, the instructions state that you should lift the car and take off the wheels FIRST, AND THEN remove the dust cover and loosen the top strut nut.

I would reccommend loosening both top strut nuts before lifting the car. You need the weight of the car to keep the whole strut/spring assembly from turning while you try to loosen the nut. It may not be a problem if using an impact wrench, but it can be when using a regular socket wrench.

(If it does happen, just remove the whole assembly according to the article and vice it so you can get leverage on the nut.)

Thanks Bill (scionspecialistvegas) for the emergency help!!


Laura

Great FAQ! Looks easy enough for me.
I'm just waiting on nicer weather (still Winter here) to
buy and install my springs.

Instructions look great. I want to install the Tein H springs which don't have that much of a drop. Am I going to be able to compress the spring enough to get the nu back on? I think most are installing the S which is more of a drop and I would think less spring height to compress.

Any thoughts?

Also I am doing this to improve the ride quality. Any thoughts on this as well?

Thanks

I'm stuck.........I keep trying to loose the 17mm bolt on top and it just keeps turning and staying tight, the passengers side bolt loosened right up. Any suggestions? My car is in pieces in my garage and I am leaving for a trip tomorrow. (pushes panic button) :pray: :pray:

Is the part still on the car? Sometimes putting more load on the strut can be enough to get it to start turning. This is where a impact gun comes in handy.

If it is off you maybe able to take it somewhere that has impact guns (Auto repair shop) that may do it for you. Some local major auto parts stores may have this as well.

Using a impact gun is good. They do have some electric impact guns avalable if you don't have air avalable. I have not used these so I don't know how good they are.

I am not an expert at doing these and have not done a xB yet. I have done struts but it was some years back. I hope this helps

Electric impact guns arent really good for the torque produced from an air gun. you can probably rent a compressor and air impact stuff like from autozone and their tool borrowing program.

i havent used this system but from my experence doing roadside assistance for a BMW dealer. the impact gun is only good enough for hurrying up lug nuts that have already been untorqued.

keep us updated once your done

I got it off. I had to put some vice grips on the shock under the boot to get it to loosen. Thanks for the advice though.

no prob

Let us know what you think of the new springs. Which ones did you install?

Goldlines and they are awesome.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/data/500/11526MVC-019F-med.JPG

Just a general question - Are these directions good for the xa as well or just the xB ?

Hi, Should work for both. They share the suspension. I've never popped the hood of a xA to see where the towers are in relation to the firewall, but other than that, they should be exactly the same.

Goldlines and they are awesome.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/data/500/11526MVC-019F-med.JPG

Looks good. So you used vicegrips to hold the strut. Any issues with the funcionality of this now? Did you grip in the area that goes into the cylinder or was there room to grip above it?

I have my springs now. Waiting for some nicer weather here in Michigan to install them. I don't have a garage so I have to work in the driveway. Snowing here today. :yawn:

BTW I never likes the black rims on the xB but after seeing them around I like them now. Do you have a before pic?

Here's a before:
http://us.f3.yahoofs.com/users/42141104z14a03471/ce5a/__sr_/4836.jpg?phj.OGCB.HcI3kHH

I am having problems posting phots for some reason.
I gripped the part thr goes in as high up as I could and as gently as I could. I have had no problems with it since. Normally you don't have to do this, the passenger side loosened up fine.

Are there any special torque settings to be used, or just go as tight as you can without stripping it?

I just used the "yeah, it's tight" method. Have not had a problem with them.

well just did this according to the tech on my buddies box and it helped greatly. Some of the pictures werent working though.

Thanks for the excellent writeup :bow:

I got my DF210s yesterday and had them on in just a couple hours with nothing but hand tools. The rear literally took 10 - 15 minutes and the front was a little harder but nothing worth paying a shop to do in my opinion.

I've got to recommend ptuning.com too. I ordered the springs on Thursday and they arrived on Tuesday :D

:bow: first off. this is a really good thred.

Now for my Q. i just got my gold line spring and i am raring to install them. But i am perplexd. There is a bump stop trimming instructions. it says that for the scion xa/xb hey highly recomed cuting the front bump stop 1"inch the back just says N/A i take it there is none back the or it is not necesery to cut it.

My Q is. Were is, What dose and Should i do What it says??

:pray: pleas pleas pleas help me i want to do this as right as i can.

Thank u in advance for all the help and the great wright up. :eyebrow:

Please PLease PLease. Can someone help me out???? :pray: :bow:

Sure, I did my Goldline.

As part of the front strut assembly, there is a high density
rubber/foam bump stop that's on the steel shaft of your
strut. On my box they were a (dirty) yellow, and are fairly
light weight since they are dense foam.

They should look just like the ones pictured in the directions!

I simply used a hack saw to shave off 1.5" FROM THE TOP
just like the directions state.

What they do is help stop the shock from bottoming the
shaft out on the bottom of the cartridge body, which could
result in bursting your strut and just overall making a mess.

It's super easy overall.

Good luck with that.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/suspension_springinstall/thumbs/front13.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/suspension_springinstall/front13.jpg)



the yellow oringe thing in this pic???? dose it come out and is it 1.5" or 1" cuz my thing says Scion xa/xb cut Bumpp Stop 1" ??? thank u so much... may the Car Gods Bless you. :bow: :bow: :bow:

HELP HELP HELP Please..... ok i instald my springs this weekend and they are oh so nice...... :bow: now my thing is i think it is only the right pasengers side that is squeeking like crazy but not shere. is this normal its kind of scary i dont want to be driving down the free way and the bam the srings go flying out or something.... i instald all corect like instructions seid did every thing to a T..... PLease Help.

*note on the instalation i i had the same problem with the nut turning but not loosening. the key is to live the car down with the tiers on and do the 17mm bolt then jack it up and waht not. i notec that cuz i was doing th pasenger side i loosend the 17mm nut first befor jacking it up and loosend easy. The drivers side was jacked up at the same time and i couls not loosten the nut. so put the tier back on and let the car back down to see if this would help and to my amazment it did. so some one might want to fixt this DIY to say this info or something.... anyway please please help...

oh ya i also noteced that doing 80+ the car starts to shack like the stering wheel starts to quiver did not do this with the OEM springs is this normal?? I have checked every thing 2 times and every thing is corect and tight. any help would be apreshiated.

Thanks in advance... :eyebrow:

*note i am a DIYer and note a mechanick i can do it with instructions but othere wise i am shipt out of luck. should i get my align ment done or something like that??

Alignment needs to be done , incorrect toe seems to be your culprit. get it checked soon , i have ghetto super low springs and have no shaking at all , something along the line got misaligned , take er in and get er fixed so as to make the car safe and to prolong tire life.

Wow guys this is one heck of a write up. Thanks for your time and effort.

So, I just did my Goldline install. However I forgot to cut the bump stops. Dang, So what's going to happen now that I have forgotten this step? Is it totally needed? Can I get some pros and cons? The drop looks sick though. One more question. How do you know if you put the correct springs in the correct place? I didn't get any directions. I just used yours and I didn't see if the bigger ones went in the back or the front. I kind of just compared and went with it. Please let me know if I have messed up. I also read that it would take a day or so for the front to drop while the rear would drop while the front is being done. But mine seems to have droppped already. I have Goldlines. Please help me. before I get messed up.

you really dont need to cut the bumpstops. I didnt, and it never bottoms out. Its impossible to confuse the fronts and rears. I'm sure you did it right.

Yeah I looked at it again, in perfect Woody Style, after I had spoke and realized I couldn't have put the on any other way. So the ride for you is good w/o cutting the bump stops. Sweet. Thanks for the help and this write up guys.

I just installed TRD lowering springs on my xB using the posted instructions. Those instructions were amazing and helped me out tremendously. Thanks a lot for putting them together.

Since my instructions were in Japanese :rofl: , this walkthrough was a big help.

I just installed a set of goldline springs 3 days ago and used your tech guide. It was a very detailed guide to use. I just have one question about the front though. I had no problem doing the front other than the alignment cup on the top of strut (the one that says out) turning on me while i was torqueing down the driver side. So i had to take it out and do it all over again on the driver side, but then torqued it down while the car was on the ground. One question i have is how do you know you got the strut bolt tight enough in the front? When i re-checked it today, the bolt just kept on turning which means its just turning the whole shaft of the strut while im tightning it. There is a noise in the front while i go slow over large bump in the road, but this might just be the coils coming into contact with each other and rubbing. The back makes the same noise. Is there a way i can take out the strut and tighten the bolt while its out of the car so i know its really tight? Is there a stationary bolt on the shaft that you can hold on too with a open end wrench while tightning the top 17mm bolt? I dont really want to put a vise on the shaft because it could damage the it. Sorry about this being so long.

I think the noses u here are just from the new springs seteling and realining them self to the strust and rubbers and what not when i furts put mine in i was freaking out cuz mine was mackingall kinds of nosies and seeing as how i am not a machanic i thoguht for sher i had screwed something up. and now they are fine nice and quiet. :eyebrow: hope this helps a little

I just installed a set of goldline springs 3 days ago and used your tech guide. It was a very detailed guide to use. I just have one question about the front though. I had no problem doing the front other than the alignment cup on the top of strut (the one that says out) turning on me while i was torqueing down the driver side. So i had to take it out and do it all over again on the driver side, but then torqued it down while the car was on the ground. One question i have is how do you know you got the strut bolt tight enough in the front? When i re-checked it today, the bolt just kept on turning which means its just turning the whole shaft of the strut while im tightning it. There is a noise in the front while i go slow over large bump in the road, but this might just be the coils coming into contact with each other and rubbing. The back makes the same noise. Is there a way i can take out the strut and tighten the bolt while its out of the car so i know its really tight? Is there a stationary bolt on the shaft that you can hold on too with a open end wrench while tightning the top 17mm bolt? I dont really want to put a vise on the shaft because it could damage the it. Sorry about this being so long.
if the strut rod is turning while tightening the big nut, the flat spots on the strut rod and spring hat are not engaging. You need to take it apart and see whats going on.

I just installed a set of goldline springs 3 days ago and used your tech guide. It was a very detailed guide to use. I just have one question about the front though. I had no problem doing the front other than the alignment cup on the top of strut (the one that says out) turning on me while i was torqueing down the driver side. So i had to take it out and do it all over again on the driver side, but then torqued it down while the car was on the ground. One question i have is how do you know you got the strut bolt tight enough in the front? When i re-checked it today, the bolt just kept on turning which means its just turning the whole shaft of the strut while im tightning it. There is a noise in the front while i go slow over large bump in the road, but this might just be the coils coming into contact with each other and rubbing. The back makes the same noise. Is there a way i can take out the strut and tighten the bolt while its out of the car so i know its really tight? Is there a stationary bolt on the shaft that you can hold on too with a open end wrench while tightning the top 17mm bolt? I dont really want to put a vise on the shaft because it could damage the it. Sorry about this being so long.
if the strut rod is turning while tightening the big nut, the flat spots on the strut rod and spring hat are not engaging. You need to take it apart and see whats going on.

I think i might have explained myself wrong. After you set the car on the ground, then tighten up the strut bolt, is there a point after that the bolt seams is tight it can turn more if you really put some muscle into it? It just feels like im fighting against something rubber in a way. It feels secure though. Do you have experience with the goldline springs? My scion did not come with those rubber tubes that are on the stock springs.

mine felt that way too. I just tryed to observe how tight each nut was and tried to tighten it back to about the same amount of torque. Even though they felt rubbery they tightened up OK.


Hope this helps

So is there a way to mark the struts or assembly so an alignment doesnt have to be done after the install? Or is it going to throw off the alignment no matter what?

i went to go get my car aligned when i did the install and they told me it did not need it that only 2 things had chang from the normal stats and that was just do to the fact that the car was lowered the guy said not to wory about it. Just my $0.02....

I didn't need an alignment after I did mine either. The struts only go in one way.

You need to do a allignment WHENEVER you do any adjustments to the suspension of a car. Hence the lowering is going to mess with the camber and toe of the car. When i lowered mine, it didnt feel like i need a allignment but i still took it in so i wouldnt mess up my brand new 215/35/18 toyo proxies. They told me that my toe was out a little and I had negative camber which you will allways have when you lower something that has a strut setup.

Ok guys, wish me luck. :pray:

I have read over all 3 pages of comments and tips and now I think i am going to attempt to do my XB tomorrow. I purchased suspension tech springs with a 1.75" drop all the way around, so I hope I do it right and it sounds rather easy...

Thanks for all the advice and if I have any questions, I will be sure to come back and ask

Thanks alot guys :bow:

Quick question of the back spring rubber mounts. Do the top need to be facing a certain direction? What i mean of this is that there are 5 or 6 little notches on top that are placed againt the car. Do these need to face a certain direction and does it matter where the tail of the coil is facing? Tail meaning the very last coil that sits against the notch of the rubber mount.

Yes it does, which springs are you mounting? I know with the Goldlines, the Goldlines emblem ends up facing the tire.
I believe that puts the tail of the spring facing the tire also.

Might be better to wait for someone a little more confident to respond....lol

Where did you hear that at?

Oh yeah... I have Goldline on my Xb.. Kinda forgot to include that in the last message.

Where did you hear that at?

I didn't "hear" it anywhere. It's just what I noticed from installing 2 sets.

My Goldline logo is not in the exact same area from one spring to the next.... But maybe your right... How long did it take for your goldline's to settle in the back? My Xb seems a little hight in the back than the front when im looking at the wheel gap.

I'm not sure how long it takes normally. I loaded up the rear with kids and luggage the next day and went on a road trip. They haven't dropped any more since then.
You could always call Goldline, they have excellent customer service. http://www.goldlineonline.com/

OK guys, THANK YOU VERY MUCH for all the help and the step by step on how to lower the XB. I just completed lowering my car on friday and everything works great. Had some issues and difficulties with the front, but other then that, it was rather easy.

Mental note for anyone attempting to do this later. I ended up removing the wipers and the plastic cowl piece to get to the top 12mm nuts on top of the strut tower. It took a little extra time, but it saved some time getting to those back ones, which were a bi**h. So just a FYI

Also, if anyone interested, look into the suspention tech springs (got mine on ebay for $100 shipped). They ride real nice, almost like stock ones. Don't bounce to much, but aren't super rough on every bump in the road. Looks good too. Once I figure out how to post pics on here without a url, I will get 'em on here.

Again, THANK YOU everyone for your help :bow:

Another, easier way to get thos bolts off the top of the strut tower is to loosen them up as much as you can and then jack the car up. Once the front tires are off the ground, you can push down on the tire a little and get all the clearance you need. Very handy for putting on strut tower braces too.

Thanks for that advise 'cause I am sure I will be using it soon when it comes to installing a upper strut bar when I get one..

That is actually the advice written in the instructions for the DC Sports strut tower brace. It works really well.

Question: How much can I drop My Box on 19 inch wheels. Has anyone done it ? and do they rub. I wanted to go 2 inches.

Question: How much can I drop My Box on 19 inch wheels. Has anyone done it ? and do they rub. I wanted to go 2 inches.


That I don't know for sure. I dropped mine 1.75" and I am sitting on 18's with 25 series tires and there isn't much of a gap in my wheel well. Honestly, I think you may rub with a 2 inch drop and 19's, but I could be wrong. I have rubbed once or twice on a hard turn with what I have.

25 series tires with 18's? I never heard of that before. Do you mean 35 series? I have 18's with goldlines that are a 2" inch drop. I think you would probably get away with 2" inch drop with 18's. I would probably go with a 1.5" drop though because i hate the sound and the feeling of rubbing my tires. I rarely rub, and if i do its because of going around a corner pretty fast while hitting a bump. Other than that i never do.

OOOps, I have fat fingers.. ha ha ha ha :rofl:

Yes, I meant 35 series tiries.. he he

I'll probably try 1.75's and see what happens. Thanks

I'll probably try 1.75's and see what happens. Thanks

You're welcome. That is what I have on my XB and it looks great I think. The fronts could settle a little more, which I hope they do with time. The rears settled perfectly. They filled the gap nicely

me and blue05xb lowered my xB this past saturday using df210's and i have to say it was easy as all hell with these instructions. i also have a video of me undoing the nut on top of the front strut and the spring uncompressing if people who are worried about it can see its not bad at all. anybody interested?

i'm a serious chicken and was wondering if there was someone in the miami area that would be willing to help me out swapping in my s techs? beers and pizza on me. :pray:

great instructions, I hope I can do this myself. I want to drop my xB like the week I get it. is ptuning the cheapest place to get the DF210s?

It is Super Easy. If you guys have the basic tools needed and
follow the directions, you'll be done in less then two hours.

I did mine solo without issue.

Though I do have to point out, after you drop your box, drive
around for a bit, then retighten the 3 nuts at the top of the
strut towers, and also the 17mm under the rubber cap at
the strut towers. On mine the 17mm losened up a hair, on
another guys one of the 3 nuts losened up after a few miles.

yeah i heard you are supposed to re-tighten all the bolts after you drive it around a little. I am just worried that after i lower it my box is gonna be making all kinds of rattles and squeeks like my integra did when i lowered it. but i also put a whole new suspension in the integra: struts/coilovers. i am getting the xB for a daily driver and to have some comfort but i want the looks of a lowered vehicle, i hope i dont wind up paying the price again.....

not one sound has come from my xB after i lowered it. all i hear is my magnaflow :). no squeeks rattles or anything. if you use the spring wrap you should be good to go

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/4167/cimg01786tw.jpg

i cut the wrap in half lengthwise, and did each side of the dead coils where they start to come together

Here is a link to a recent session I had installing springs on my 2005 Scion XA.


DISCLAIMER: Scionlife.com does not take any responsibility in what you do to your car. This link could be filled with incorrect information. You could be voiding your warranty if not installed by a certified mechanic or dealership. It is quite possible that you can totally mess up your car by using this as a guide to install your springs. This can result in serious bodily injury, death, dismemberment, sexually transmitted diseases and so forth to you and anybody else in case of an accident resulting from failure to take safety precautions and/or following the instructions in this write-up.

Spring Installation on a Scion XA:
http://www.screwtheman.com/archives/2005/08/scion_xa_on_a_s.html

Hope this proves informative...

Cheers,
CoffeeBean

Who here has had the alignment checked after your install. Seems pretty important to do whenever installing new suspension parts. Was there much of a difference?

Also, what is the offset of the factory wheels of an Xb?

my alignment was a bit out...

had to actually pay someone to do that...i wish there were an easier do it yourself way to get aligned....

either way it was and will be worth it to save the tires...

get that alignment done after spring installation!

i didnt have and alignment done. car tracks straight and nice. after i get cusco front camber plates i will get an alignment

:bow: Great write up! I did mine a couple a weeks ago with no problem at all. thanks.

after installing new springs, is it necessary to install new shocks and struts? im planning to install s techs.

I just installed a set of goldline springs 3 days ago and used your tech guide. It was a very detailed guide to use. I just have one question about the front though. I had no problem doing the front other than the alignment cup on the top of strut (the one that says out) turning on me while i was torqueing down the driver side. So i had to take it out and do it all over again on the driver side, but then torqued it down while the car was on the ground. One question i have is how do you know you got the strut bolt tight enough in the front? When i re-checked it today, the bolt just kept on turning which means its just turning the whole shaft of the strut while im tightning it. There is a noise in the front while i go slow over large bump in the road, but this might just be the coils coming into contact with each other and rubbing. The back makes the same noise. Is there a way i can take out the strut and tighten the bolt while its out of the car so i know its really tight? Is there a stationary bolt on the shaft that you can hold on too with a open end wrench while tightning the top 17mm bolt? I dont really want to put a vise on the shaft because it could damage the it. Sorry about this being so long.

just wanted to let you know man, you don't have to crank down on the top nut, what is more important are the lower 2 bolts that the weight of the car sits on. The top nut is only specd @ 25ft. lbs in the repair manual. The surrounding 3 nuts on the tower are rated @ 29ft lbs.

On the other hand the lower 2 bolts/nuts are @ 97ft. lbs!!

If anyone is wondering, the brake bracket is 22ft. lbs.

Enjoy ^_^

:bow: This write up is off the hook! I've just installed my TEIN H Tech springs and I used this DIY each step of the way. Exept for the putting the fronts shocks in. The guys that installed is probably 50 pounds heavier than me because I couldnt compress the spring enough to but the big nut in. Thank god that PEP BOYS rent out the spring compressor! That did the trick!

Thanks again! :bow:

Awesome write up.

im one of those paranoid about hurting myself or someone else lol ive heard some horror stories about springs hurting peeps...from a few friends

but i could rent the spring compressor and have no worries

geez this is tempting lol springs themselves are not that costly its always the installation that sucks your wallet dry...TheDanger rocks he already offered to help too so I may just do that some time...course I do have a few friends who are auto gurus one worked at Velocitytrends before.

very very very good writeup, Im 99% sure I can do it ..and thats saying a lot cause im a newbie

If it makes you feel better, i'm 17 and i did it on my own. Of course when i was 16 i had a knowledgeable friend show me how to change my springs on my Toyota Echo (same suspension set up as the xB/xA). I changed from stock > Megan Racing springs that night and watched how he did it.

A few months later i bought Tanabe df210's (for the xB) and swapped them onto my Echo and sold the Megan Racing springs. Then i took the Tanabe's off, traded in the Echo for the xB and then put them on the xB. Not hard at all but by yourself it WILL take some time. Some people says it takes 2 hours but for me it's taken almost 4 hours. Thats getting all my tools out, jacking up the car ... and removing the window cowl with wiper assembly takes some time. Some people choose not to do it but it's a lot easier with it removed to work on the front struts, and you can get a torque wrench on the nuts to makes sure their torqued down properly. Good luck.

This is really a great help for people who want to install their own springs and sve a couple hundred bucks. Thanks for posting it!!!

One thing that might be added....When you remove your struts in the front-SUPPORT YOU WHEEL HUB(ROTORS)!!!! If you let them hang it can cause you inner axle boots to tear, and the clamps to pop off, leaving nice piles of thick grease under your car (and not on your axle joints where they need to be).
This happened to someone (guess who :doh: ), and even tho I could fix it alright, it's not fun- and it turns the job from 2 hours into about 6...

Where does the grease come out from? Where the rotors are or underneath the engine? I never knew about supporting them and i didn't do it when i changed my springs. I want to check and make sure that it didn't happen. When i changed the springs on my last car (Echo) both times i didn't do this and there was a bunch of grease all in my engine bay and on my firewall and i couldn't figure out where it came from :doh:

well i fubar'ed my front spring install :roll:

one strut boot has a hole in it and the other was getting close too it

i did not know that the front coil spring seat upper and the strut rod was keyed

the struts are fine but the front coil spring seat upper and boot are fubar'ed :doh:

so went to the dealer to order new ones all four pieces cost less then 60 dollars

will take pics when i take it apart again

this time it only took my 2.5 hours to take every thing apart and put back together :)

well i some what knew i went wrong when i had to get a another alinement done 2 times in two months last year

so last friday i took my struts out and check my shotty work :?

passenger side
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/hornet_on_the_flower/my%20car/P1210001.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/hornet_on_the_flower/my%20car/P1210003.jpg

driver side
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/hornet_on_the_flower/my%20car/P1210002.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/hornet_on_the_flower/my%20car/P1210004.jpg

so yeah thats a pretty way below subpar of a install i did last year :? :shock:

thats cause i never knew that the strut rod is keyed :?
thats one major detail that every body left out :?

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/hornet_on_the_flower/my%20car/P1200014.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/hornet_on_the_flower/my%20car/P1200009.jpg

so now i have gottin the new parts replacement parts installed every thing is lined back up, every thing is back up to par :)

the bad install resulted in the car drifting off too the right pretty, glad i got that mofo fixed right this time and it only costed me $58.90 for the replacement parts from the dealership

I was going to wait until spring for my sring install, but today i got "the itch" and had to put the hotchkis springs on and it really is only a 2 hour job using all hand tools, If i had a air commpresed spring commpresser it would have only taken about an hour or hour and a half.

i have a problem!
its REALLY hard for me to undo the front suspension
i been into an accident before and all the bolts are HARD as hell its like nearly impossible to take it out
i got the back ones in easy, but i dont wanan be riding on just the back ones all the time


need help/info

:nails: :nails: :nails: :nails:

Use a breaker bar, it's quite easy to do.


Or just slide a pipe over your wrench handle and use it.



Which bolts are you talking about?

nvm i think i figured out the problem...

it was those two 19mm ones by the abs

i was stupid not to remove the wheel :doh:
yaya dumb mistake... but ima do it right 2maro thanks

oo actually this might be stupid but ya
i bought the tanabe df210s ... which ones are the front? which are the read?

look at the size of them. comare the shape of the tanabe's to the stock shocks.

Looks pretty straight forward...I ahve an 06 xA, and will be getting my Tein S Techs Wednesday....will the install be the same as this? Any differences?

basically exactly the same.

Very straight forward installation writeup, I installed GoldLine 2" drop, looks awesome, rides awesome. Minor noise coming from all 4 springs, but after driving around for a few hours, noise is going away. Keep the awesome writeups coming.

Thanks to the write up my friend and I installed Tein H-Techs & the OTG rear hub spacers in 2 hours flat. It sits a lot better now and ride quality is improved a little bit. I'm happy.

Hornet on a flower thats strange, I didn't notice mine were keyed but I'm not pulling to one side or another and don't hear any noises so I'm assuming all is well..

And after thinking about it, everyone does mention to make sure the OUT of that metal piece and the tab of the boot face towards the outside of the vehicle that may have been the issue.

I used these instructions today and with the help of my wife I got it done in 2 hours. I could not have done it without these instructions!! Thanks for your effort!!

does anybody know how bad thier camber/toe was after lowering it about 1.75 in? is it necessary to buy a camber kit?

Nice write up! I printed them and istalled my Tein S with my Brother in Law this afternoon. All hand tools. Took a couple hours but dang, the instructions were spot on! Thank you!

i installed some h techs today and forgot to put the felt washer back on one side...made it a touch longer to do. Now i just need to get it to stop pulling to the left...but great write up.

great guide, it helped me install some df210s. but now i'm getting this weird sound and i think its coming from the rear. i know it would be hard for somebody to tell what it is without actually hearing it, but can anbody maybe tell me what to check and look for back there?

SuperMario6582 Posted: 5/8/06 7:26AM Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

great guide, it helped me install some df210s. but now i'm getting this weird sound and i think its coming from the rear. i know it would be hard for somebody to tell what it is without actually hearing it, but can anbody maybe tell me what to check and look for back there?


the springs in the rear usually end up having dead coils....so when the coils compress, they actually touch eachother a little. The touching makes a little creaking sound, usually if you push on your bumper or rock your car up and down. The df210s are supposed to come with black spring wrap. You should wrap this stuff around the rear springs, starting with the bottom and wrap it going up. It's supposed to stop the noise.

I have the same springs, and I wrapped them, but the still creak a little when I get in and out of the car. Nobody like that sound, but its not harmful or anything.

SuperMario6582 Posted: 5/8/06 7:26AM Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

great guide, it helped me install some df210s. but now i'm getting this weird sound and i think its coming from the rear. i know it would be hard for somebody to tell what it is without actually hearing it, but can anbody maybe tell me what to check and look for back there?


the springs in the rear usually end up having dead coils....so when the coils compress, they actually touch eachother a little. The touching makes a little creaking sound, usually if you push on your bumper or rock your car up and down. The df210s are supposed to come with black spring wrap. You should wrap this stuff around the rear springs, starting with the bottom and wrap it going up. It's supposed to stop the noise.

I have the same springs, and I wrapped them, but the still creak a little when I get in and out of the car. Nobody like that sound, but its not harmful or anything.
its not a creaking sound. its when im driving around that i hear it. i'm gonna see about checking all the bolts and making sure that their all tightened right. maybe this will fix it? sometimes it sounds like it starts on one side and then fades to the other side.

I figured it out. It was the brake dust covers in the front rubbing. I guess when I pulled out the strut I bent them forward enough that they would rub. I just bent them back into place and I don't hear that noise at all anymore.

i'm going to try it this weekend. wish me luck ya'll

I did this install this week. I had some trouble puting the fronts on though... I just took the struts to the Tirekingdom down the street and they my new springs on fo $44 it was nice and easy for me. I came back home put them on and reintalled my windshield wiper assembly.

Thanks man for the great write up!

Nice. So how did you remove the windshied wiper assembly? I tried that, but didn't have enought time to fool with it.

I got the back goldlines in fine (xA) but the fronts are going to be trouble. I think I'll need to remove that windshield cowl. Anybody take pics of this, or have advice? Thanks.

Great thread!

Don't bother, a wrench will work fine.

Just did mine with no problems. A 12mm combination wrench will take care of the nuts on top of the strut towers. Take your time putting the strut back on and get someone to help you as it is difficult to manuever everthing and line up the bolt holes by your self.

What do you think?

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/2308000-2308999/2308283_15_full.jpg

i will put some pics up on the window assembly later tonight.

Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna buy a combo wrench and take care of it in the next few days. Meanwhile, I'm driving around half-lowered and feeling...pretty cool...

Okay, I did the backs. It wasn't too bad. I also removed the windshield assembly, since I didn't have a combination wrench, but I did have a repair manual.

One thing I noticed...I had some trouble with the ABS wire, I think. It drooled a little bit of fluid from both sides, but not much at all. Is this normal? My car seems to drive fine...

DUDE!!! If you're leaking brake fluid at all, GET IT FIXED QUICK!!! :eyes:
It may seem fine now...till you're exiting the freeway and plow into a truck at 80mph, because your brakes don't work.

Please, get it fixed quick!!!
Seriously. I'm not being an ___ about it. Please, get it fixed.

Did you remove the 14mm bolt that holds the brake line to the back of the rear hub? If not, when the swing arm dropped without the shock to limit travel you probably damaged the lines. Make sure the resivoir is full and go get it checked.

Thanks for the quick replies. yeah, I undid the 14mm bolt before letting the swingarm down, just like the directions said. The strange thing is that I followed the directions specifically, and about 1 teaspoon of fluid leaked out of the ABS line of each side. It seemed like a tiny amount of fluid, but in equal proportions and from both sides. I undid the bolts, moved the lines out of the way of the swingarm, and in doing so, a few drops spilled out. After that, no leaking at all. What's the deal with that?

However, I will go get things checked, since that seems to be the pragmatic thing to do. Any other thoughts you folks may have on this would be helpful. Maybe the about details will help out.

I just thought that moving the ABS wire gently out of the way shouldn't result in that moisture leaking out...of both wires? WEIRD.

Anyone? I'm still planning on getting it checked. Anybody else have this happen?

not me check just to be sure man.

Werd.

I did the install yesterday. Took about 4 hours, taking my time. I've never done suspension work before and used hand tools.

I rented a strut spring compressor, which was a godsend. I was doing this by myself so I didn't have anyone to push on things and compress. Also, with the fronts being keyed, I wanted to make sure they stayed in place while tightening the bolts.

I tried to take off the wiper plastic thingy, but couldn't quite master that part. It was easy enough with a box wrench to take off the front top strut nuts.

Went quite smoothly thanks to this install page! I got TRD springs, and the instuctions say "refer to manual." Overall, the feel is mildly stiffer, not too bad. The drop is there, but not super noticeable. Definitely doesn't look slammed, just closed down a little bit of the gap.

Oh, and no leaks.

Thanks for the DIY on this, it helped alot, finished mine up in an hour and a half! Used spy springs and love the ride.

installing the fronts can be a tiresome nightmare especially getting the strut back in and lined back up to put the 2 bolts back in took two people an hour a side that are experienced mechanics I don't know if this had anything to do with all the polyurathane bushings from energy that were prototypes there making a master kit for our cars the Xa and the Xb and don't forget to warn people not to move wround to much or oyu will pull the exel out of the transmission especially if it is an automatic. I felt like the basic principle was outlined in the installation but on the xa you definently need to remove the wipers and motor and tray area. there is alot more to it. I also see some people did a DIY without using spring compressors just because it didn't kill you doesn't mean that it can't happen and people loose legs and arms because of not using them considering they can be rented for free at autozone I see no reson for people not to put safety first. This can be a very tough job on the front easy on the back and it may be harder with the TRD springs with less of a drop but I definently noticed alot of difficulty then it was made to sound in the front and some safety tips left out.

Sorry to hear you had such a hard time of it. However, the spring install on an xA or xB is not nearly as diffcult as you make it out to be. I am not a certified or "experienced" mechanic, and I did not have nearly the difficulty you did. Granted I am pretty familiar with suspension and have done lots of suspension work in my time.

I also just can't believe it took two experience mechanics over an hour per side just to compress the spring and line up the strut bolts. Myself, with my brother-in-law (who has never done suspension work) took less than 10 minutes per side to compress the strut to align the bolts. And that 10 minutes was with plenty of struggling.

Also, while your comments about using spring compressors is valid in some applications it really isn't an issue with our springs. They aren't compressed enough to pose a serious risk. On other cars, it can be very serious, and if you don't know for sure you should err on the side of caution. But I know from doing mine that with the strut laying flat on the ground and tapping the top with a runner malet the spring went less than 3 feet. Had it been facing vertically I dounbt the coil would have cleared the strut shaft.

Bottom line? Our cars are probably one of the easist on the market today to lower. Are there tools and methods out there that can make lowering them easier? Sure. Are those tools and methods absolutely necessary to get the job done? No. Is it something an average shade tree mechanic and his buddy can get done in an afternoon? Absolutely.

Bravo. I agree. I'm no mechanic. I got it done.

you dont need to remove the wiper cowl on an xA or xB. I can do one in 35 minutes if I'm not standing around BS-ing too much.

When I "compressed" my springs on the struts, I just pushed it down- while my wife got the nut started on the top. It wasn't a big deal. Nothing flew off and killed anybody.

just wanted to express what we found on the Xa I think it is tighter work area than the Xb and the car was automatic it was very hot day with no lift. I said what I did about the springs just cause i saw a guy with a toyota NOAH Van loose a leg for not using spring compressors and all went very easy with the install until getting the front strut back in line and bolted up underneath. the axel kept coming out of the transmission this may be something on the automatic Xa I dunno but we definently had to remove the tray and wipermotor up top to use a tourque wrench properly on the bolts. and the hochkis strut bar was in the way as well as a viper alarm siren so it took a little while longer than I expected. I'm anxious to see how your header tutorial is when I install the TRD toyota ist header next monday it should be here from japan I excited. looking at importing all the underbraces that aren't available here either and the yaris supercharger i want to make sure it will fit first in the engine bay and i can tune it with a standalone but thats another topic.

The trick to lining up the bottom strut holes is to jack up the front of the car from the middle....raising both front wheels off the ground at the same time. This unloads the sway-bar and allows the struts to drop right in.

yeah I didn't jack it up in the middle I used jack stands on the lift points but had the front totally raised

yeah I didn't jack it up in the middle I used jack stands on the lift points but had the front totally raised
Yeah I didn't mean it had to be jacked up from the middle, just that the entire front should be off the ground.

Not sure why they gave you so much grief though.

me either still baffling me I'm sure I didn't do something absolutly right but I read alot of diy and followed all the steps even removed top tray with wiper motor for extra room found on echo forums but I don't know they were a serious pain I hope the TRD springs don't blow the shocks because I do not want to change them for along time seriously.

me either still baffling me I'm sure I didn't do something absolutly right but I read alot of diy and followed all the steps even removed top tray with wiper motor for extra room found on echo forums but I don't know they were a serious pain I hope the TRD springs don't blow the shocks because I do not want to change them for along time seriously.

just wanted to express what we found on the Xa I think it is tighter work area than the Xb and the car was automatic it was very hot day with no lift. I said what I did about the springs just cause i saw a guy with a toyota NOAH Van loose a leg for not using spring compressors and all went very easy with the install until getting the front strut back in line and bolted up underneath. the axel kept coming out of the transmission this may be something on the automatic Xa I dunno but we definently had to remove the tray and wipermotor up top to use a tourque wrench properly on the bolts. and the hochkis strut bar was in the way as well as a viper alarm siren so it took a little while longer than I expected. I'm anxious to see how your header tutorial is when I install the TRD toyota ist header next monday it should be here from japan I excited. looking at importing all the underbraces that aren't available here either and the yaris supercharger i want to make sure it will fit first in the engine bay and i can tune it with a standalone but thats another topic.

Please use the ENTER/RETURN key occasionally, as it's extremely hard to read a run-on sentence without that consideration.

Thanks.

Just used this tech to istall TEIN springs. Extemely easy and it only took me and my buddy about an hour to do. I measured to factory ride height at 9.5" and now my box sits at 6" all the way round. Looks awesome.

I really doubt you have a 3.5" drop with teins.

I measured the factory ride height at 9.5" and here is a picture of my current stance at 6" The sideskirt is 6" from the ground. I would post a better pic, but its raining like crazy here, maybe tomarrow.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2398000-2398999/2398427_2_full.jpg

:question: I dont know, but thats what I got

Well just installed the H&R Touring Cup suspension and other than battling with the front springs since I was doing it alone with no compression vice it went rather smoothly. I ended up having to go visit my mechanic and use his. After that was all said and done came back home to put the front end back together. Took the car out for a ride and she rides BEAUTIFULLY.. Very happy so far with the H&R suspension components.

Do you have any pics of the car? Looks really low good job



I measured the factory ride height at 9.5" and here is a picture of my current stance at 6" The sideskirt is 6" from the ground. I would post a better pic, but its raining like crazy here, maybe tomarrow.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2398000-2398999/2398427_2_full.jpg

:question: I dont know, but thats what I got

well i just did this today and i have a question. on one of the instructions it says to face the arrow on the tube for the front strut the same way the forks are. Well i didnt exactly do this, should i be worried? i did everything else right i believe...

as long as you put the top on correctly, to where it's labeld "OUT" and that you matched up the key marks.

If you didn't do that, I'd definetly make sure you do ASAP to avoid damage.

well, the shock tower is keyed so you can't put it in wrong, so if you somehow put anything in wrong, well.... here's your sign.

check again, it is possible to put it in wrong, not keyed.

Another user on this site did that, and the upper strut mount was torn up due to the key not being in the correct spot.

yeah i dont think i put it in wrong cuz you really cant, the rubber pieces are made to go only one way. My dad and brother helped me out so we payed attention to everything (i hope). But i should be fine...my box seems a little more lower on S-Tech's then others but i could be wrong...

im probably going to check every bolt this weekend to make sure that they are all tight. oh i got a question: On the rear springs is there a way you can install them upside down? the S-tech's i got already had that brown wrap towards the bottom of the springs so i put that side on the bottom. This is my first ever lowering job and im making sure i dont run into any probs in the future, so i dont have to take everything apart again cuz man it took so long for us!

check again, it is possible to put it in wrong, not keyed.

Another user on this site did that, and the upper strut mount was torn up due to the key not being in the correct spot.
This man speaks the truth. ^^^

check again, it is possible to put it in wrong, not keyed.

Another user on this site did that, and the upper strut mount was torn up due to the key not being in the correct spot.

that user does have a name here <<< :P haha

6th and 7th posts down...

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20769&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=100

sry bout that, forgot who it happened to.

Here is my tein install if it helps:
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=84087&highlight=

i didnt cut the bump stop. was i supposed to??? the Tein instructions say to do it. Gonna go to Toyota tomorow for an alignment, maybe have them check it all out and see if its 100% good.

I cut mine, but most people on here say it is not required. You will probably be fine, enjoy the springs.

Just installed the H-Techs using the instructions.
Very easy job!!! Thanks :clap:

Great write up and awesome follow-up responses with dos and donts made install a breeze. Thanks

is anybody concerned about tire wear? what about camber kits?

i dont think you really have to worry about tire wear unless you dont get an alignment after you lower it and drive like a race car driver, should be all good. Im glad i decided to lower mine and will never go back to stock again!

http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/38267_3.jpg

Are my springs on upside down? In another forum someone said that they were on upside down....

they're fine. that person doesn't know what their talking about.

Yeah, that's what I thought too.
Thanks!

if there is lettering on the spring, make sure the lettering is right side up.

I have had my trd springs for a few weeks now and I noticed that the front right (passenger) side is a 1/4inch higher than the left. The springs are in correct and I just had it aligned last week. Anyone know if the springs just settle at different rates. I was thinking that the driver side would settle more first because there is more weight (me) on that side?

Will this affect the alignment?

Daw i need to do my springs haha

huh?

do you know if its the same way for the tc?

do we need a spring compressor to take off the stock spring and to put on the new ones? it does not point this out in the DIY?

also is the abs line stickied on the side of the unit. so once it's peeled off. we have to get new double sided tape to re-apply it back on?

A spring compressor is recommended, but not needed. The rear springs practically fall out, but the front springs on the strut are the ones you need to be careful with. The springs on the strut are loaded and may shoot off the strut once the top hat is unbolted. If you are not using a spring compressor, be very very careful.

do we need a spring compressor to take off the stock spring and to put on the new ones? it does not point this out in the DIY?

also is the abs line stickied on the side of the unit. so once it's peeled off. we have to get new double sided tape to re-apply it back on?

no compressor needed. folloow the directions on how to disassemble the fronts.

also, the brake lines are clipped on like in the directions as well. If you have a laptop, just take it out to your car, and look at the parts first. It might help you.

thanks awesome write up homie. I used this 3 weeks ago and I still can not beleive how easy it was.
thanks for saving me a couple hundred bucks :bow:

i will use a spring compressor just for safety purposes. i can't afford to have a spring spring out on me. :pray: :)

I've done 5 spring installations, and never needed a compressor.

I've done 5 spring installations, and never needed a compressor.

is the key loosening up the top of the nut on top? to avoid it from springing out?

it will always spring out, just not violently. ive done spring installs both with and without compressors. i preffer with just for ease.

i will use a spring compressor just for safety purposes. i can't afford to have a spring spring out on me. :pray: :)

I agree. We are talking what... a whopping $12 from harbor freight for a set of spring compressors.

They also make it much easier getting the flats on the top of the strut lined up with the upper spring seat, the first time.

is it recommended to put jackstands on all four corners? or just on each corner that your working on?

for the front, just the corner your working on

for the back you can use two since its easiest to have both rear wheels off the ground.

On my 3 xA/xB spring installs, I've found it better to have both front wheels off the ground at the same time, as this unloads the sway-bar making for a much easier removal and replacement of the struts.

just got my springs in today. does anyone know what the heck the bump stops look like and what i should be cutting and how do i put it on the spring? or do i put it on the spring? Help! hehe... :pray: :pray:

so is it MUCH harder to do it by yourself? or would you NEED someone there to help you align the strut back in place for the fronts?

On my 3 xA/xB spring installs, I've found it better to have both front wheels off the ground at the same time, as this unloads the sway-bar making for a much easier removal and replacement of the struts.

just got my springs in today. does anyone know what the heck the bump stops look like and what i should be cutting and how do i put it on the spring? or do i put it on the spring? Help! hehe... :pray: :pray:

dude its a yellow piece of hard foam, you cant miss it. its only on the front struts.
if you read the first page where it tells you everything theres a picture of it.

with spring compressors you can do it by yourself.

do i cut this off, or take it off and put it on the new spring? thanks for your help!

just got my springs in today. does anyone know what the heck the bump stops look like and what i should be cutting and how do i put it on the spring? or do i put it on the spring? Help! hehe... :pray: :pray:

dude its a yellow piece of hard foam, you cant miss it. its only on the front struts.
if you read the first page where it tells you everything theres a picture of it.

with spring compressors you can do it by yourself.

is this the bump stop? also how would i cut it? sorry for all the questions. i just want to make sure i do it right. hehe... thanks again!

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/suspension_springinstall/front13.jpg

the little yellow thing is the bump stop. it has nothing to do with the springs. take it off teh strut shaft, cut in in half with a carpet knife or anything sharp, then put it right back.

seriously, read the DIY on the first page. It is self explanatory.

seriously, read the DIY on the first page. It is self explanatory.

read the first page, it says to replace bump stops with old ones with new one if you have ones that came with your springs. SO, in my case with the df210 springs they did not come with them. so just place the stock ones back in? now DO i cut? or Don't i CUT? it in half and put it back in? i'm a little confused!

if they tell you to cut, cut them.

it tells you in the directions how much they need to be cut.

all you have to do is cut the stock ones in half, put the top half back in and you'll be fine.

okay, sounds good. :) thank you!!


all you have to do is cut the stock ones in half, put the top half back in and you'll be fine.

just got done installing 3 springs on my car. the sun went down before the 4th one could go on. and complete the installation. :P

just to make sure i cut the "bump" stop. it's the round donut thing that is a off white colo directly right under the 17 mm bolt on top of the strut? :pray:

This is what a cut bump stop looks like. Mine is cut 1 inch from the bottom. (I have Tein S springs). Taken from this post:
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=84087&highlight=

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a244/spryfry11/160d13e4.jpg

just to make sure i cut the "bump" stop. it's the round donut thing that is a off white colo directly right under the 17 mm bolt on top of the strut? :pray:

YES

This is what a cut bump stop looks like. Mine is cut 1 inch from the bottom. (I have Tein S springs). Taken from this post:
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=84087&highlight=

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a244/spryfry11/160d13e4.jpg

i did not cut this. i cut the thin sponge looking thing in half. did i mess up or is this not the bumpstops? :doh: :pray:

This is what a cut bump stop looks like. Mine is cut 1 inch from the bottom. (I have Tein S springs). Taken from this post:
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=84087&highlight=

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a244/spryfry11/160d13e4.jpg

i did not cut this. i cut the thin sponge looking thing in half. did i mess up or is this not the bumpstops? :doh: :pray:
ohh no. you cut the dust boot. you kinda need that to keep dirt out of your bearing.

i can order a new one from the dealership? does anyone have this part number?
This is what a cut bump stop looks like. Mine is cut 1 inch from the bottom. (I have Tein S springs). Taken from this post:
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=84087&highlight=

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a244/spryfry11/160d13e4.jpg

i did not cut this. i cut the thin sponge looking thing in half. did i mess up or is this not the bumpstops? :doh: :pray:
ohh no. you cut the dust boot. you kinda need that to keep dirt out of your bearing.

hmm...looks like i cut the strut insulator and not the bump stop. just my luck. hopefully the dealer will have them in stock tomorrow when i call them. :pray: :pray:

dude, if you look at the DIY it tells you what the bumpstop is. wtf?

we all told you a hundred times it was the yellow piece of foam and even posted a picture of it...

we all told you a hundred times it was the yellow piece of foam and even posted a picture of it...

yup, and still managed to mess it up. :doh: i just ordered the new part from the dealer. should be here by tomorrow. not a big problem. but defintely a hassle. :silly:

finally finished putting in all springs and cutting bump stops. and yadda yadda yadda. the car rides great! thanks everyone for your help!!!!! :bow: :)

best place to buy this springs again?

best place to buy this springs again?
from the guy who brought you the DIY.
www.randode.com

to randode! :bow: :bow: :) THANKS For the AWESOME DIY!!!
best place to buy this springs again?
from the guy who brought you the DIY.
www.randode.com

This guide is great. I started my spring install at 315pm and was jumpin in the shower by 418pm to clean up. Probably one of the easies suspension modifications I have done.

Your instructions are pretty clear and seems easy to do. I am going to do, but my question I have heard you need to reset your wheel alignment after you put in new springs. Do you do that or is that just something the dealership says.
I am looking at buying some of those TRD Lowering Springs, is that a good buy or should I look elsewhere? I would appreciate any information you can give me.

It is suggested to get a front wheel alignment after you lower the car. The rear does not need alignment.

I installed the Tein s springs which lowered the car about an inch more than the TRD springs. After it was lowered, it seemed to run fine without the alignment, but I got one just to be safe.

The best springs are the ones that fit your style. Do you want to lower the car just an inch, then get the TRD. Do you want to go lower, then look at the Tein s tech, Progessive, or Tanabe 210 springs. Hope that helps, good luck.

p.s. - Welcome to SL

Your instructions are pretty clear and seems easy to do. I am going to do, but my question I have heard you need to reset your wheel alignment after you put in new springs. Do you do that or is that just something the dealership says.
I am looking at buying some of those TRD Lowering Springs, is that a good buy or should I look elsewhere? I would appreciate any information you can give me.

I have the TRD springs. Although they only drop the xB about 1 3/16” it still has a pleasant ride and I have had no bottoming issues or tire rubbing with four adults in it. The lower you go the more potential you will have for tire rubbing, bottoming, road noise etc…..
Alignment after lower is needed with the TRD spring install, although it’s pretty minor adjustments. My steering wheel was about 2 degrees off counter clock wise after the spring install.

I paid $175 for the TRD springs shipped.

you run into rubbing only if you have wide and/or low offset wheels or run spacers (i have both and i rub). i took my wheels off and put steelies on for the winter and now i dont rub at all even with 4 HEAVY wheels and tires in the way back. i have tanabe df210's with a 2" drop and never got an alignment and the caar tracks straight and smooth as the day i got it over a year ago. steering wheel is straight and everything. i paid 162 shipped from ptuning.com with the scionlife discount code ptscionlife.

Just one quick then, the rims I am about to get are the KMC Kingpin 18", the tire size 215/35/18. Are these tires going to be alright? I know with the normal suspension I have now it will be ok but how about the Tein S-Tech springs? Or the TRD's?

depends on the offset of the wheel too. the tire SHOULD be alright, you may rub at full lock.

Can you explan that full lock thing?

wheels turned all the way left or right

I have heard you need to reset your wheel alignment after you put in new springs. Do you do that or is that just something the dealership says.


Lowering springs change your suspension/steering geometry, which affect tire alignment. It’s simple physics. Do the job right and get the alignment.

What color is the bump stop ? just kidding

Are these springs really that easy i'm doing them tomorrow?

Are these springs really that easy i'm doing them tomorrow?
If you've had experience with this type of thing...then yes, it's a breeze. But if not, it may prove to be more difficult.

I did mine using this guide about 6 months ago, and this was my first suspension mod that I have ever done in my whole mexican life, and it was like taking legos apart and putting them back together, took me 1:28 minutes, got an alignment 5 weeks later and now 6 monthas later IM one happy Mexican!
Thanks Randode and Sl Crew! :bow:

cool i'm going in to start in alittle while.


I did mine using this guide about 6 months ago, and this was my first suspension mod that I have ever done in my whole mexican life, and it was like taking legos apart and putting them back together, took me 1:28 minutes, got an alignment 5 weeks later and now 6 monthas later IM one happy Mexican!
Thanks Randode and Sl Crew! :bow:

Just finished!!! Thanks a million, man!!

wow they were pretty easy and the guide truly helped make it very easy.

Pics! Pics!

before
http://i8.tinypic.com/42x9zih.jpg
after
http://i13.tinypic.com/481vk45.jpg

Nice job, looking good :clap:

Give them about a week to settle a little more.

yikes then i'll really be smacking some aprons!

hey guys... planning on popping in my swift springs this weekend. the instructions also suggested cutting the bumpstop, im still debating on whether i should do it or not. the springs are only supposed to lower it one inch. it looks like most people dont cut the bumpstops, but has it had any adverse effects on anyone that left them alone?

what should i cut it with if i decide to do so?

also plan on slapping on my progress rsb and dc sports strut bar. all at the same time, i think i may explode.

^^^ If it's just an inch or so, don't worry about cutting the stops.

thanks man

ill let you guys know how it goes

Xa is right, shouldn't be a problem, but if you do cut the bump stop, it looks like this (cut about an inch from bottom):
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a244/spryfry11/160d13e4.jpg
taken from: http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=84087&highlight=

got it done.

took about 2 hours with a lot of "where the hell is the 14mm?!" kind of stuff.

the strut will not separate itself from the knuckle unless the opposite wheel is also elevated slightly or simultaneously.

i would definitely recommend having 2 jacks on hand, maybe even 3 if you can haha

the axle popped out once, but only a little so it slipped right back in. everything is fine as of right now. definitely make sure you have a scissor jack or something, dont let your axle fall out. it was a nightmare on my cousin's civic.

one question though:

on the rear springs, i am not sure if i lined everything up the exact way it was before – meaning the springs may be rotated into different positions. they are also not placed in the exact same way as each other – one spring's end is not in the same place as the other side.

if you can decipher what my concern is from that previous paragraph... do i or do i not have a problem?

i skipped doing the progress rsb because i wanted to see its overall effect – if i had done everything at the same time i wouldnt know the difference.

so, as of right now, im loving these springs. definitely tighter, not a major drop, about an inch. this is just how i wanted it. these springs are not in the spring sticky, can i propose that we drop it in?

^^^ You're probably ok on the rear. But post up some good clear pix and we'll let you know for sure.

And yes, elevating both the front wheels at the same time is a must. :wink:

Excellent write up! I will hopefully be starting the modding process, since spring is around the corner...