For everyone that has bought aftermarket rims so far, did the rings come with your wheels or did you have to buy them separate. I know when I bought wheels for my bimmer they came with them but @ wheelmax they said they dont have them? Any ideas?

depends on who you buy the wheels from. i know tirerack.com and tires.com comes with them for sure, but most of the other online stores don't come with them. my friends shop, machii.net comes with them. you might want to check them out.

ok i know this sounds bad but what is a hub centric ?

get them, use them.
don't ever run wheels without them.
just my advise.
they only keep the vehicle load on the HUB where it's supposed to be,
not on the lug studs, keeping you from shearing off your wheel studs or loosing a wheel.
decent place to buy them online if you can't find them locally:
DriverFX.com (http://www.7453217467431.com/browse/brandBrowse.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1356959&FOLDER%3C%3EbrowsePath=1173893&FOLDER%3C%3EbrowsePath=1356699&affID=DFX&bmUID=1048266835781&affiliate=DFX)

I dont understand the rings....how do you choose some?

DO you have to know the dimensions of the wheel, and the hub...or what?

I have MSR wheels, and I would like to get some, but I dont know what size to order.

i need to get rings too, and i have no idea what size to get.

You will only need hub centering rings if the wheel you are using on your Scion is not hubcentric (if you measure the centerbore of your wheel, it should be 54.1 mm). The type of rings you will require will vary depending on the wheel. You will need to measure the centerbore of the wheel, and then get a ring with an outer diameter matching the wheel's bore, and an inner diameter of 54.1 mm to fit the Toyota hub. This will effectively center the wheel onto your hub and prevent shaking. For example, the 4×100 bolt pattern Antera wheels come with a centerbore of 75mm. The fitment fot the Scion would then call for a center ring that has an outer diameter of 75 mm, and an inner diameter of 54.1 mm.

I found a place to get the centering rings... www.prestigewheel.com , I believe that they are out of huntington beach. And yes you do need to know your wheels inner diameter, they have a lot on their site and are helpful over the phone as well. He wasnt familiar with the scion but I told him that the measurement should be the same as an MR2 and he had info on that so? Hopefully this all works out....oh and they were $30 for the set shipped

Ok, I went to prestige wheel....I looked at what they had to offer.

They have this ring\

http://www.prestigewheel.com/cgi-bin/commerce.exe?preadd=action&key=HR72-5406

My wheels have a bore of 72.64 according to the manufacturer, and the scion has a 54.1 according to kendo.

SO this is the closest thing I have found, is this right? I dont want to get the wrong thing.

thanks for the link, you guys. BTW if anyone has similar wheels as mine, i have 16x7 rota grid. the center bore is 67.1. i ordered HR67-5406 from prestige and we'll see if they work. if anything, they will be better than nothing, which is what i have now.

This ring should work fine. Which wheels do you have? I'm surprised that anyone offering a 4×100 PCD wheel with a 72.6 CB does not have rings for their wheels readily available for a bunch of makes and models. I don't know of any vehicles that are already hubcentric at 72.6 other than certain BMW's, and those are all 5-lug.

They are MSR #113.

they are an eagle wheel company.

I will email them and ask.

i just realized something. 76 is way bigger than 54. you guys need rings badly. i've been riding around without them for a few thousand miles now, and i can't tell the difference, but i'm sure it's not healthy for the lugs to put all that weight on them instead of the hub.

Hey Eric, do your wheels have a centerbore of 76mm? There should be definate shaking going on when you are driving...

no, my centerbore is 67.1. i mentioned it a few posts up. i tried to center the wheel as good as possible, but i'm sure it's a mm or 2 off. anyway, there is no shaking, and i've gone over 100mph with no problems.

How do you figure out the center bore?

you use a caliper or ruler to measure the inside diameter of the hole in the middle of the wheel. or do what i did and search the internet.

i got my centering rings from tires.com for $8 shipped. just call them and let them know the size you need. you can take a look at prestige to see the standard sizes. our xb's, like all other toyotas are 54.06mm.

All this stuff is confusing me.

Ok, so my wheels are from a Civic...and I'm almost certain that it did not come with hubcentric rings--at least none fell out while I had the wheels rolling around in my garage.

So my search for some hubcentric rings begins.

18x7.5 Volk Racing GT-N...

What is the hub centric ring size that I should be looking for?

Easiest way would be to contact VOLK by email, and ask them the bore of that model wheel...Use that number along with the 54.1 inner diameter for the scions hub.

this whole hubcentric thing is new to me. I have some HP Racing Hurricanes that use the stock style of lug nut(countersunk hole-self centering) Are hubcentric rings sill needed on this type of wheel?

this whole hubcentric thing is new to me. I have some HP Racing Hurricanes that use the stock style of lug nut(countersunk hole-self centering) Are hubcentric rings sill needed on this type of wheel?

if you are putting your wheel on and you can move it all around after you stick it on the lugs without tightening them down, then it is not centered, and that's what the rings do. they just keep everything aligned so the wheel isn't lopsided when it turns. i'm sure you could whittle your own hubcentric rings if you were good with a piece of wood and a pocket knife.

I would get rings. Although the self centering lugs will do a reasonable job of centering the wheel, the studs were not designed to carry all this weight. I would measure the centerbore of your wheel, and then see what is available. Center rings are very inexpensive so the safer you are, the better.

Ok, here is my story for today concerning these bad boys.

I went down to my local Discount Tires, who deal with all sort of companies like Volk, Tanabe, H&R, Work, etc...all that good stuff.

I explained the situation to him and he took off one of my wheels to make some measurements. The thing is, in order for my stupid wheels to fit right, I had to run a spacer in the front...so this actually prevented me from being able to just buy a set of hubcentric rims for my wheels to fit the car. He also commented on how unsafe it is to drive with spacers, because of the reduced stud thread with the wheel pushed out like it is. This is my fault--as I just wanted to get the wheels on for the time being.

So, he says that he can have custom made wheel spacers--WITH hubcentric rings built in to them. He used a caliper tool and measured a few things...and I think he came out to be 65 or so for the wheels. Also, with the custom made spacer...he said that it could be done in any offset, and he recommended 30--which of course I agreed with and it would look much better than it does as it sits now.

It'll take a week before they come in, but from my understanding, it will give me 4 new lug bolts, on top of a spacer that will make the wheel a 30 offset, while not compromising any lug thread because of the all new bolts. This will also include a matched hubcentric ring, so that it will fit nicely on the car.

Kendo....does this sound ok to you? The guy at the shop said that this would be the safest way to run the wheels, without having to get new ones.

Hey JDMxB, it sounds proper. The guy at the shop is correct in that if you run generic spacers you lose thread turns on the lugs which can get dangerous. The custom ones he is having built for your car should end up working perfectly, plus with the ET30 your wheels will look bigger and better.

Just got home from getting the rear spacers for my car. They are ones with new lug studs--not the cheap 'billet' ones.

Can one of you fellas enlighten me on how exactly do these "higher" quality spacers with the new lug studs and everything work?

I'm under the impression that they have to possibly grind or something the original lug studs...?

Ideally, i'd like to know how exactly the spacer goes on, and where everything works out and how. thanks!

I still have the generics on the front wheels--because he hasn't recieved the new spacers yet--and I think I have started to run into a little problemo.

The inside of the spacer seems to be getting slightly grinded down by possibly the brake caliper? There is a small area on the inside of the spacer closest to the car that is shiny shiny aluminum--like if someone had it grinded down...it is also like a 'step' down from the rest of the spacer.

Kendo--you still around here?

If this piece was rubbing against the caliper, the you should see an area on the caliper itself that is grinded away as well. Is this the case? How big is the diameter of the generic spacer compared to the backpad of the wheel? How thick of a generic spacer are you using? How many turns are you getting on the lugs on the front axle?

I think what the problem is is that the spacer is a little larger than the diamter of the backpad of the wheel--causing some sort of rubbing on the inside. I did notice that the rear "good" spacer is significantly smaller than the front generic one. I will get pics up asap...maybe that will help.

Also, i get about 2 and a half to 3 turns if i remember correctly.

If you're experiencing any grinding of any sort, remove the part causing the problem RIGHT AWAY!! You could potentially be causing more permanent damage that will be extra costly to repair later. Also, with lug nuts, you want thread engagement that is at least equivalent to the diameter of the stud. So with the 12mm studs, you want your lug nuts to be threading on to a section that is about 12mm deep.

It's nice to have the wheels back on the hubs, but I don't think my rings did anything.

JDM XB what is you wheel/tire fitment recipe, ie offset, tire size and rim size.
I dont want the same problem you are running into on yours when im shopping around.
Are you running too high of an offset?

Just go with as low an offset as possible and you'll be fine. ET35-40 with a rim width of 7-7½ inches will give you no problems.

Yes, Kendo is right, and he's the one who solved all the problems with all the great info.!

Just stay under +40 offset if you are running 7.5 inch wheels.