Ok, so I went to a sound comp on Saturday by the urging of a friend of mine. He was pretty certain I'd place/win in my class.

When we first did the install a few months ago, the bass would hit so loud and hard you could feel your chest wall vibrate and it would be hard to breathe. (No I don't drive around with it that loud on a daily basis, I'm not totally stupid lol)

My friend took 3rd in PA last year for db level in PA, and was either 2nd or 3rd this year again in his class... so he knows what he's doing (just doesn't know jack about Scions lol)

ANYWAY, he's pretty sure the stock alternator isn't able to keep up with the demands of the system, forcing it to draw off of the battery, thus not getting the voltage it requires to do what it's capable of doing. (I only ended up hitting 131 db (1 12" sub, 1 amp), which I suppose is a feat for still at this time running on the stock battery and alternator... yes I'm getting a yellowtop).

My question is, is there a company that makes a bigger amp alternator for the tC, where do I get it?

 

I can't think of one offhand, but yeah, your alternator probably can't handle the draw at that extreme. Have you tried adding an extra battery as an alternative. Granted, a new alternator shouldn't be that much, I think refurb stocks are like 80 or so, I think you should expect about 140 range, but I am not sure where exactly to get them.

 

What kind of system are you running? I upgraded to a yellow top and did the "big 3" upgrade and it handles my system pretty well (most of the time )

 

Heh I didn't post what KIND of system I have for the simple fact that most people laugh, until they hear it. The sound quality I get is unbelievable, but the system just isn't getting the power it needs, hence the need for the alternator upgrade and my question lol.

If it's totally necessary to know what I'm running to find a better higher amp alternator I'll post it up, but in the meantime I'm trying to get it back to where it was at first and get my numbers to prevent comments like "oh you don't need more power to run THAT"... when I do lol.

The "big 3" might be an option down the road, but first I have to solve my "lack of amperage" problem.

So, anyone know where I may find this magical alternator I need? hehe

 

If you were doing a key on, engine off pull then you are not running off the alternator, so I am assuming the car was running at the event. You really need to know what you are pulling to know if you need a bigger alt and what size it needs to be. What is the total rated peak power of your system?

 

well here is the thing. you really don't need a new alternator unless your pushing around 2500-3000 watts and even then you can get away using another battery. i Doubt you need an alternator. I think the biggest reason you didn't do as well as you thought is because you guessed a number at first. yea it can sound loud but until you actually meter it you have no idea.

Also your box could be too small. we really need to know what your running. big three will help more than alternator plus an alternator is like 800 bucks.

 

Ok... I didn't guess a number (I don't know crap about stereos) my friend did. Like I said, my friend the past 2 years at least has placed 2nd to 3rd in PA for highest DB in his class... and ALL of his work over YEARS he has done solely on his own... he knows what he's doing, besides, if he messes something up... I know where he lives to get him to replace/fix it/pay for it to be fixed. I wouldn't let my friend touch my car if I didn't feel he knew what he was doing, and didn't see the dozens and dozens and dozens of trophies to show he DOES know what he's doing.

One of the things we're doing is getting a new custom box. It didn't come in time for the show. I've already planned on getting a yellowtop, just haven't had the extra funds.

I do not know offhand what peak power I'm running. I just wanted to know if there was an "aftermarket" or "higher amperage" alternator on market for the tC and where to get it. The "bugs" are going to be worked out one by one, with the alternator being the last "bug" to try in getting everything where it should be.

I just wanted to know if there was one made, and where to find it so I know what my options are and which road we want to take.

I am NOT trying to sound ungrateful or like a biotch, so please don't take it that way. Anytime anyone gives advice I take it into account, but I just want to know:

1. Is there an "aftermarket"/"higher amperage" or whatever alternator made for the tC
2. Where do you get one? (I'm sure the price would be listed)

 

1. yes
2. stinger around 800-1000 bucks

 

the first step you should take is the big three. Not only is it very very cheap but very effictive.

 

nebster> THANK YOU!!!

fujitech43> Like I stated before, he's fairly certain that the alternator isn't putting out what I need, and feels like that would be the best option. HOWEVER, before I do that, we're going to go over the smaller stuff (like I also mentioned) with looking into the big 3, waiting for my custom box (STILL), and the yellowtop. My friend just wanted to know if there was another alternator out there, since he's not accustomed to working on Scions... start with the smaller stuff to eliminate those possibilities, and work our way up.

 

Ok before I got my tC i ran 2 alpine type-e 12" subs with a 350-watt mono amp an hit 142.2. stock battery and alternator. since then i've made the box smaller and put 4" ports on the sides of the box. I'm installin the stereo in the tC this week on my days off work. I don't know alot but you don't need an alternator. I'm pushin 350 and i hit 140+ so if your only hittin 131 then u must be runnin at least 250 or lower. either that or a single sub don't hit as hard as 2 do. Also what is "The Big 3"? I ain't a n00b on cars jus I'm more of the "see if i'm faster than the other guy" car nut.

Thomas

 

it all really depends on the meter.

big three is bigger wire (typically 0 gauge)
1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine

 

heres an idea...get the NST alternator overdrive pulley, anda new belt

possibly a capacitor??

just my 2 cents...

plus a different battery will help...

oh and on the post about 141 db with 350 watts..

possible, but pure wattage is not the basis for noise level, their are many many different factors....my friend has a 1000watt and a 15 in his truck, when i had a 400 watt and 2 10s, and i was just as loud on the inside(the tc's interior shape seems to promote bass)

good luck with the radio

 

caps are worthless a complete waste of money.

do the big three and then a optima then if your still having problems really think about what stereo you have and if its actually phesable to get a higher number.

please pm me and i really want to know what you have bc i feel as though you shouldn't be getting much higher.

 

142 with type E's??.. truthfully... to me... thats hard to believe... i am not saying its impossible... but i would have to see it to believe it....

going along with the others... the big three is a slight help... i have never felt as strong about as other SL'ers... the better battery will help.. a cap... eh... will help very little... but in my opinion... in a car with a big system... these all act as a bandaid... i have always told my installers.. customers... everyone... not enough current is just not enough current... when your car makes 80 amps.. and your amplfier is pulling 60 of those... and your car.. runs on say.. 40... you are going to run into problems... thats why the only REAL fix is a high output alternator....

 

maybe but i doubt he has enough power potential in order to necessitate a new alternator

 

Caps are not worthless when used for the proper issue. A cap is a high pass filter by nature. So transient spikes will be effectively removed from the line. These types of spikes can cause noise at various harmonics as well as very quick flickering of the lights. Other, more prolonged drains (like the pull of a sub hitting a long bass note) will not be addressed well with a cap. With todays amps and car power systems, transient spikes are probably not much of an issue.

Many talk of a cap doing the same thing as a battery... this is true and false. A battery cannot respond to quick changes as well as a cap, which is why a cap is better for removing the transients than a battery is.

Even on a 1000W system, it is typically pushing more like 700 W if it is cranked all the way and that is only during peak, hard hitting notes. And most of the time that number is even lower. When they rate an amp, they typically rate it at the highest output frequency of the amp, during a peak sine wave signal. Real music and sound signals are not pure sine waves and do not sit right at the perfect frequency for he amp. So I would say that an average 1000W amp is producing closer to 500 typically, and for 99% of its time driving around listening it is at 200 or so. Even at 500W, you are looking at 34 Amps while the car is running. We have a 100 amp alternator, so unless you are running a lot of the cars electronics all at once you should be ok at those levels considering you will only be pusing that in a competition and will not be running the lights, defroster, etc.

Also true about the wattage meaning nothing in regards to sound output. The physical characteristics of the sub and box play a huge role as do the characteristics of the amp.

 

Antoher thing I did not mention was the efficieny of the amp. The actual power draw will be more than the number I mentioned above due to this figure, but should be in the same range. That is also dependent on the type of amp and its characteristics. For example, a Class D amp is much more efficient than other types. For a typical amp I would guess the 34 amps above should be closer to 45 or so.

 

*looks next to my name* yep... there's an F there... I'm a chick for one

For two, (like I said not to be a biotch) my friend has been doing stereos for YEARS and YEARS... and has dozens and dozens and dozens of Sound Comp trophies to prove he knows what the heck he's doing... and has been for the past few years rated no lower than 3rd in PA in his class. Honestly, I'd take his word over anyone who "supposedly" knows what they're doing in a stereo shop.

Like I also said in my post, it's not hitting as hard as it used to. I've told him and showed him the responses in this post, and he's quite adamant that the stereo is not getting the power it needs to run how it's supposed to. Like I said, not trying to be a b*tch, but if I had even the slightest doubt my friend didn't know what he was talking about I wouldn't listen to him and never would have made this post.

 

ok 1st, sorry for not looking at your age or your sex my bad.

thats fine i'm sure he does but unless your running a comp 12 (about 5000 watts) you don't need a new alternater i'm tryin to save you money but if you wanna go blow a grand for something your not going to notice go ahead. its not my money