Well guys I was looking at how my car was working during different loads with my wideband, and saw that at WOT my car even hitted 10.6AFR and the stayed on 11.3-11.5 and went again 10.7 and I was like, Why is it so RICH when this car is not so modded. Is anyone else with a wideband recording this in N/A setups?

Yes - When I dynoed my car it was running way rich - around 10's for AFR. Try taking out your ECU fuse to reset the ECU, then after plugging it back in, idle the car for a few minutes then drive normally - you should see better AFR's

That's what I did 3 days ago, sine I connected the wideband. I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes, while I was working on it and then reconnected it and saw the readings today when I got to install the gauge itself. So those are my normal AFRs.

I'm not complaining, I'm just trying to see how many people are seeing this in their N/A cars. :D

watching!

watching!

I know. Keep watching between this week and the next one. :eyebrow:

your car ran rich? mine was running on the leaner side with cai, header, spipe, and exhaust. i was in the mid to high 13's. then at redline it would spike up to like 14 something... i had to richen it to get it back down.

your car ran rich? mine was running on the leaner side with cai, header, spipe, and exhaust. i was in the mid to high 13's. then at redline it would spike up to like 14 something... i had to richen it to get it back down.i know running a little lean is ok, but isn't running rich not safe for the car?

i thought we are supposed to shoot for around the 12.9 - 13.3 range? mine was i think 13.6-14.xx something. i can't remember exactly.

your car ran rich? mine was running on the leaner side with cai, header, spipe, and exhaust. i was in the mid to high 13's. then at redline it would spike up to like 14 something... i had to richen it to get it back down.i know running a little lean is ok, but isn't running rich not safe for the car?

Other way around for the most part. Running lean can burn up a motor. When running FI you run even richer on a street tune to keep this from happening. Although, at a certain point on the "rich" scale you begin causing some detrimental effects.. but it has to be VERY rich.

Stoich is approximately 14.7: 1 (it can actually vary depending on what is in the fuel). That is the optimum mixture to acheive a full burn and low emmissions (a result of a full burn). Running FI you will see much richer setups to keep the system safer on the engine.

A common misconception around this is that if you add more fuel because you are upping boost, you are making it "richer", which is untrue unless you change the ratio.

So, technically you arent running the car "lean" at 13:1 on a stock setup, you are running rich compared to stoich (stoichiometric ratio).

The dyno's I have done have all shown my car running rich. It dipped in the high 10's, even when I pulled the fuse to let the ecu relearn it still ran really rich.

Yep, I think that's the stock setting working there, and also because we use regular fuel the ECU pulls enough back to be REAAAALL safe. I think. A best AFR for N/A would be between 12.7-13.5 AFR. Idle 14.7 and suppooooosedly, 15.1 for cruising, since he engine is under no heavy load. But I think a safe margin at cruising would be between 13.5 and 14.5AFR. What do you think guys?

Hmm Well ive been using the search ,wanting to find answers. So i guess ill even try to brings this old thread back lol. I was wondering if i can get an update? What are you doing about this rich A/F ratio soros? My tc has been burning extreme gas with my I/H/E setup.

would it just be the header that would affect the AFR's? or basically any modification such as a midpipe, s-pipe, axleback, etc?

Lol thanks for helping me bring this thread back up, spot. But with just my weapon-r intake with ram air, tsudo midpipe, and tanabe axleback. I was gettin around 220 per tank for months. With the header ive been getting 180 per tank. For about 4 fill ups. This is with 50/50 city highway, even though that shouldnt even drop me to under 200 a tank.

i used to get constant 260-280 miles per tank (from full tank until light comes on) with my I/H/E/P setup. I was just curious about the effects with AFR's and such.

i have I/H/E and i run:

Idle: 14.9-15.3
Normal Driving: 14.2-15.2
WOT: 11's @ shift point, 13's- low 14's at cruising

I did try a Greddy Emanage Ultimate and it works but only at WOT this is the limitation of piggy back systems. So I just purchased a AEM standalone ECU for the tC.

From what I've heard, the Ultimate isnt needed for N/A apps...the standard blue works well, and I've seen some good results from that

Its doesn't work for part throttle and its still a little quirky at wot.

So you guys are saying the regular emanage blue is the best for N/A setups? Wat about the AEM F/IC? Also low 14:1 is the ideal A/F ratio for normal driving right?

Okay, I was never able to tune the car, but I manage to alleviate the problem, by resetting the ECU the right way, and letting it adjust without forcing it.

Hmmm and what do you mean, "the right way". I disconnected the battery for 5 minutes, then started the car. let it idle for 5 minutes. then drive at a acceptable speed for 100 miles. You think maybe i should disconnect the battery and take out the ecu fuse for 5 minutes?

i think the right way is disconnecting a fuse?

ok i mightaswell just unplug the battery AND the fuse. Cant go wrong there right. And correct me if im wrong, but theres no like bad side of just resetting my ecu just for the hell of it right?

What I mean by the right way is by letting it idle 15 minutes, and light throttle when in used until the ECU relearns the new parameters. But it all depends, as always.

I see, Of course i did that. lol, roughly how long do you think i should drive it lightly till the ecu relearns though? Say 50 miles?

I use to drive it lightly for 20 minutes at least, soemtimes for longer trips, 30 minutes. It all depends to where you going at. :D Hope that helps.

PS, I think E-manage Ultimate still beats the Blue one for a long margin.