I finally got my Monster Motorworks 4-2-1 header installed. The first attempt failed because I couldn't remove the b-pipe bolts. I'm not going to write the full install since there are 2 detailed write ups in the Tech section.

The header is very nicely made with good welds and all the factory mounting points for the heat shield and lower bracket.

Installation for this isn't too hard but you really need the right tools. The b-pipe bolts came off easily with a 15" breaker bar and a 10" extension. Three of the header bolts are easily accessible but again, you need a long ratchet to get leverage. I almost gave up a few times and almost stripped the bolts. Be sure to keep the socket firmly on the bolt and use 6 sided sockets to keep from stripping the bolts. Also, I learned the hard way that getting the header bracket off is much easier from the top than from under the car. On install attach the bracket bolt before installing the b-pipe bolts.

The factory donut gasket came off no problem and I reused the factory header gasket. The factory header gasket is stainless steel and very good quality.

Installing the new header was pretty straight forward. The hardest part is getting access to the bolts. I had to use standard box wrench to get between the pipes to tighten 2 of the bolts.

Before I lowered the car I fired it up to check for leaks. None! I dropped the car and took it for a ride. Not much difference in sound but it does have a bit more pep. I only have a sort ram intake on the car so I'm hoping for more gains once my exhaust is installed. I ordered a Tanabe Medalion Touring system.

Here's a list of the tools I used:
15" breaker bar with a 10" extension
14mm deep socket
14mm standard socket
12mm deep socket
12mm standard socket
10mm standard socket
8" ratchet
2 hydraulic jacks. First one to lift the car high enough to use an SUV jack to get the car high enough to use the jack stands fully extended. The extra room under the car helped a lot.

So with some elbow grease and patience this can be done easily by the home mechanic as long as you have the right tools and don't strip anything. Take your time!

 

I installed my MMW Headers this weekend. I had similar experience with two exceptions:

Bracket was easier to take off from underneath. I used 1/2" long handle ratchet w/ short (3" extension) and deep 14mm socket to access these.

I noticed no change in sound or performance after install. I have Injen SRI, Perrin Pulley, and PM Axle back. I noticed the most gain from Perrin and PM exhaust.

I agree that they look A+. The welds are gorgeous and no leaks for me either.

Dido the taking your time and having the corret tools. I only have 1500 miles on mine so everything broke loose pretty easy. If you box is a couple of years old, I wouldn't try to use anything but good 6 pt sockets.

 

a couple questions.

how much did this header run you? and do they come in a ceramic finish instead of stainless?

thanks :D

 

They were on sale for $200 shipped (see sponsored sales forum). Stainless is supposed to be better than ceramic from what I've read. Lasts longer.

 

i had heard ceramic was better for it putting out less heat. but i could be wrong, first car ive ever put any work into has been my b :D

 

The ceramic headers will allow you to run with no heat shield. The stainless headers you have to cover with the heat shield as they radiate heat too well. Its a shame to have to cover up the pretty headers with an ugly heat shield.

 

You don't HAVE to do anything. There are three differences between a Stainless Header and a ceramic coated header. Looks, heat and price. SS looks better, generates more heat and costs more. Vice versa for a ceramic coated header. As long as you keep plastic parts, cables, and hoses away from either style header you should be fine. If you don't want to take that precaution, you are better off with a header that will allow you to run the stock heat shield.

 

Thanks for the clarification. BTW, headers don't generate heat, they simply conduct it then radiate it to other components in the engine compartment.

 

In this case the SS header is much less (thanks to the sale from MMW). Also, the 4-2-1 is better for street than a 4-1 which is what the others are. The MMW also uses the stock heat shield.

 

Much less compared to what though? I would bet dollars to donuts if MMW offered a standard ceramic coated version it would be less money.

 

Compared to the DC. $200 shipped is pretty cheap for a SS header.

 

Yes it is. But it isn't the every day price. Sale pricing aside, you are looking at more for the MMW than the DC.

 

I still like the 4-2-1 over the DC 4-1 set up.