Just wondering if anyone has had any success using a nitrous system, and what kind of setup it is? and any other useful info.

 

I ran a universal Nitrous Express wet kit. I ran a 50 shot for about two years before I went Turbo and had no problems. I even put a 75 shot in once or twice and it held together. Check my profile for a picture. I haven't put in a new shot of the engine bay yet so luckily it is still the shot of my NOS setup.

 

Thanks! Thats what i was lookin' for, I was gonna go NX universal EFI, 50 shot sounds perfect, umm... wide open throttle switch? or "the big red button"?

 

WOT is safer but if you know what you are doing and wait until you have the pedal to the metal the big red button is a little better for overall control.

 

If your just learning to use the juice, I would go with the ZEX system. It is pretty much fool proof.

And from my experience with it, I wouldn't go much over a 35 shot for reliability, unless you have an extra power plant ready for transplant, just in case.

and yes , I have been running NOS for 60k miles now, with a 35 shot I can go from
80 to 120 in about 3 sec.( thats all the juice time she can take)

 

What is better a wet or a dry system?

 

Both can be used saftly, if the set up is done correctly and it is used properly.

Dry is an easy install, but you should limit it to 35 shot.

Wet is more involved, more costly.can be pushed to 50 ( I wouldn't recomend a full 50 shot wet or dry)

Just remember, if you juice, follow the rules and be safe, don't follow the rules and bad things happen.

 

I used a wet system 50 shot for almost two years and never had a problem with my motor. A 50 shot on these motors is equal to about 5 or 6 psi boost from a turbo. People run 6psi all day long without a problem. Who do you know and what were they doing in there Xa/Xb to blow it up with a 50 shot?I did have a full exhaust so there wasn't a back pressure issue. I ran 17 full 15lb bottles thru my motor and I'm not even puffing smoke (meaning I did not burn out any seals or rings).

As far as kits go it does not really matter which brand you go with it is how you set the jets that counts. Every kit is the same, couple of solenoids/ stainless steel braided line for fuel and nos/ bottle/ -an fittings to screw it all together/ WOT or big red button/ and a relay. If the kit does not have Stainless Steel braided lines don't buy it. That is the one thing any good kit will always have. Rubber lines=Substandard kit.

 

We have a few sprayed boxes running around Orlando. They are running Ny-trex xB specific Dry kits. One is running a 50 shot with an automatic and runs great with no traction issues. Another is running a 35 shot with a manual trans and when he can find traction is much faster than the auto. This car can regularly be seen at the street races beating up Eclipses, new Accords, V6 Mustangs, modded tCs, and just about anything else that smack talks an xB. It's getting hard to pick up races for him unless it's a low 14 second car.

A wet system can be pushed to the limit of the block. The experts at SL say that's anywhere between 180 and 250hp ...I don't care. With this chassis and drivetrain there's no sence making much more than 160 hp. Any more would require major upgrades to the chassis and suspension. These sprayed cars are already just a big smoke show at the line. To do a wet system right on an xB you would in the least need an aftermarket fuel rail with an additional port to run your fuel supply.

A dry system can be pushed to the limit of the fuel system. Most of the fellas here are running 25hp jets (makes about 35hp) and are very happy with the result. In a 2200 pound car that's a heck of a boost in power. There are no drag losses from a blower or volumatric losses from a turbo, so you dont have to share the power gains driving the blower or turbo. The install is very easy (our kits take about 2 hours). They can be totally hidden for a stealthy install, and removed in an hour when you sell the car. I keep seeing these wet systems being pushed on here and wonder what the owners will think when it comes time to tap into the fuel rail or line. It's easy on a tC, but not so easy with these cars.

Somebody should make a sticky for the fellas that want to get into nitrous. Most of these nitrous threads get corrupted with misinformation. Nitrous really kicks a$$ over just about anything...it's a shame people get scared away from it. As I stated in other threads...if you're local please feel free to call me and we always have a sprayed xB or tC laying around to demonstrate the systems.

 

Not all kits are created equally...check the quality of the solenoids and the seal material. Also the completeness of the kit itself. Most kits are universal and lack certain parts or lengths of line for the car you're working on. I had a NOS Sniper system a long time ago (before I knew what to look for) that had brass solenoids with black rubber seals that would leak after a few months(they still sell these). After 6 months with that kit the nitrous solenoid stuck open and I lost a great motor.

Never buy without making sure the solenoids are top quality. Also never buy a used system. They are cheap, so why take a chance. Service your solenoids every 3-6 months. It's easy insurance against failure and only takes a few minutes.

 

I totally agree with you. I got the NX kit with the Iceman solenoid, I just did not like the new one they were using on the new kits. There is a problem with actually saying "you get what you pay for" or "this brand has better components than this brand" on this site. There is always that guy who swears the Shady Shot system he got on Ebay for $50 is the best thing out there and they will argue that point to the death. That is why anymore I try to play Switzerland on brand/kit choice.

 

heh heh...I like that attitude. Anybody selling nitrous will say their stuff is the best. Anybody that buys a certain kit will say it is the best to justify their decision if nothing else. Best thing to do is check them out for yourself.

I've had all brands except the newer ones like Cold Fusion and Venom. If they are anything like what I sell (Ny-Trex) then they should be good kits. They are the small guy trying to break into the market with giants. A bad rep lasts forever, so I imagine they stuff these kits with goodies and a great price, I know Ny-Trex does.

 

After reading the above posts, I have some noob questions. I understand the concept of the big red button, but the wide open throttle approach is a little cloudy. I am sure it is exactly how it sounds, but just assume I know nothing about NOS.

 

WOT switch is basically hooked up to your gas pedal, it triggers when you floor it (wide open throttle), and as long as your system is armed/on, here comes the spray.

 

so say in a quarter mile you would only have spray whenever your building rpm and top speed but when ever your shifting with a manual the spray should stop when your shifting..... is this correct?


forgive me if this sounds retarded but its been a long day

 

Depends on how you shift. If your running on a WOT switch and you're speed/power shifting, you have to ease off the gas pedal slightly in order for the WOT switch to deactivate and then fully depress to reactivate. The WOT switch is not like a BOV.

 

ummmm then i would think a button would be better since the motor has great lower torque and the tranny delivers great launches but its not so great lagging into the higher rpm and 3rd gear ....... ok this of course being the manual tranny but i think its a little different for the autos benifiting more with the WOT switch

 

I am getting ready to install my kit and would like some pics of where you mounted the solenoids.

I am going to run a dry 25 shot with the WOT micro switch and am MSD digital rpm window switch so I don't have to worry about spraying at the wrong time.

I have a set of colder plugs too.

Any other tips or suggestions would be great!

 

Im interested in this as well. ill take all the info i can get.

 

so im thinkin, 50 shot dry, through CAI, WOT switch, the rpm switch, and an aeromotive fuel pump controller for any needed extra fuel.