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Underbody Kit Install: Getting Wiring Into the Car

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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 08:56 PM
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Default Underbody Kit Install: Getting Wiring Into the Car

Hey,

I'll be installing my Inferno kit tomorrow. I was reading over various HOWTOs at oznium.com and on these forums and have a good idea of how to install the kit.

Instead of running wire underneath the car where it is exposed, I'd like to route wire inside the car as much as possible. I've looked underneath the car and can't seem to figure out how to get the rear tube's wire inside the car near the taillights. Can anyone here help me with finding where to route the wire to get inside the car?

Also, I'm not sure about how to get the side wire into the car either. I've heard that you need to poke a hole in rubber grommets located near the front wheels and go in that way. I think I've located them underneath the car, but if someone could confirm with pics or a description of what they look like that would be awesome.

Thanks!
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 09:00 PM
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check under the car for grommets comming up through the floor. i know the tC's and xB's have like 8 grommets in the floor of hte car allowing you to pass wires from underneith up into the car.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 09:01 PM
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yep, thats the way i did mine...
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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Cool. I think I see these on the sides, but I don't want to be putting holes in something I shouldn't be...

As for the rear, if I open the taillight cover on the inside of the car, I can't see any openings from the bottom of the car into that area... I'll take another look.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 09:25 PM
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take out the rear floor, spare, tools, etc etc. i know the tC has 2 grommets down there, the xA should have at least one also.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 09:27 PM
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u dont really need to poke holes in the grommets or anything for that matter. just put the wire thru and put the grommet back in. then use a piece of duct tape to hold it in place. works beautifully for me.

The grommet near the back of the vehicle is located under the back seats of the xB. Just pull up on the seat and it pops out. its under all of the stuff. you'll see it. good luck!
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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that's bad advice^

just running through the hole and not actually running the wire through the grommet could eventually cut through the insulator on the wire and cause it to short out. that's a bad fire risk.

slice a hole w/ a box cutter and run through the grommet.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Neothin
take out the rear floor, spare, tools, etc etc. i know the tC has 2 grommets down there, the xA should have at least one also.
Wasn't thinking about that. There may be one I didn't see under the foam compartment for the spare and mini-cargo area. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Neothin
just running through the hole and not actually running the wire through the grommet could eventually cut through the insulator on the wire and cause it to short out. that's a bad fire risk.

slice a hole w/ a box cutter and run through the grommet.
Yeah, I've heard this before with the firewall grommet. I'll do it "the right way" and cut a hole.


If anyone has done this and can be specific to the locations of the grommets that would be the best, but I think I may have enough info to try to locate them myself.

Thanks everyone!
Old Jan 4, 2007 | 01:22 AM
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Remove the rear bumper. There are rubber grommets on each side below the tail lamps...this would be a prime spot to run wires in. Dunno about the sides.
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 12:42 AM
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Default Wiring toward the dash?

Originally Posted by TerribleTed
Remove the rear bumper. There are rubber grommets on each side below the tail lamps...this would be a prime spot to run wires in. Dunno about the sides.
Thanks, I see this. Wiring is in the car; however, I can't seem to figure out how to remove the plastic panels leading up to the dash.

I can remove the door sill plastic easily enough, but I'm confused as to how I can thread the wire through the plastic over the rear wheel and the plastic between the front and rear doors without removing the seats or something.

I found the grommet and can get wires into the dash easily from the right and left side, I'm just having problems with routing the rear wire as I haven't messed with these plastic panels before.

If anyone could help me out, I'd appreciate it...
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 03:42 AM
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The kick panel piece (under dash on sides) pull straight back after popping up the sills. The center post piece removes by pulling the forward edge (where it lips over the body flange by the door wetherstrip in the rear of the front door opening) forward to get it off the flange then slide the whole piece rearward to remove (pop up rear sill plate first). To get the rear side pieces off for access the rear seats need to be removed. Not hard to do, 2 bolts hold each rear seat back on, and then you can unsnap the front of the rear base on left and right (pull straight up near the attachment spots) then unhook center hook at the rear middle of the seat base. Once that is out remove anything else impeeding the side panel and the side panel pulls straight out (has pop clips). I would think you might be able to stuff the wires under the edge of the rear side panels tho (I did that with most of my stereo cables).
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 05:16 AM
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Ted, thank you. Things seem a lot easier with that info!

I have also looked at the pics from the stickied eDead / box interior gutting thread and it all makes sense now.

I've gotten 2 tubes mounted and from quickly plugging them in the setup looks awesome. I'll have to finish the rest of the install later because I'm having surgery and won't be doing much in the next couple of days.

Thanks again! By the way, I've been waiting to tell you that your box looks HAWT. The paintjob is amazing
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 12:42 PM
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I put RAAMmat
http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/ind...25fe8d8b9eeaba
everywhere. It made a BIG BIG difference both is sound level (noise) getting in and sound level (of stereo) staying in Road noise significantly reduced and bass response significantly increased, certainly woth the cost and effort. This pruduct is easy to work with, conforms well to contours and rates very highly in comparison testing of it and similar products (don't have the link to the independant tests I saw tho), I highly recommend it (much easier to work with than dynamat imo I have used it too before).
Old Jan 7, 2007 | 02:30 AM
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Finished the install tonight. To get the wire from the taillight to the rear door sill, I simply used an Allen wrench to remove the two screws near the top and pulled back the plastic enough to fit the wire through-- no rear seat removal required. I was impressed at how easy that was. The kit looks great. Thanks for your help.

I have been considering installing a sound deadening solution since I bought the car. I checked out http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ and it too also recommended RAAMmat BXT as the best value. I'd much rather go with a butyl mat than an asphalt one because of the problems I've heard about.

But, I don't have a huge problem with sound at the moment. My car is a daily driver and it's somewhat difficult to find the time to install stuff, especially something as involved as installing sound deadening... I'll keep the RAAMmat brand in mind though.
Old Jan 7, 2007 | 04:06 AM
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I did my entire interior floors inside all the doors in about 5 hours. Everything comes out pretty easy. The RAAMmat is easy to work with. 1 Roll is NOT enuf to do all you need about 1.25 rolls. you can do it in bits and pieces as you ahve time too. Do a door or 2 then a couple more doors, then the area behind the rear seats then the rear 1/4's and floor (remove all seats at this time), after the seats are out and trim off the carpet basically lifts right out It made more difference in the sound quality and the bass level than road noise abatement but it makes a nice difference in both.
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