This hopefully will give you an idea of what it takes to install the front Koni yellows. This will not cover removal of the struts and springs, because that has been covered elsewhere. This will give a step by step, of how I modify the stock strut and replace it with the yellow front inserts. It is an easy modification. If you can remove the strut, there should be no reason you don’t install the Yellows yourself.

This is not intended to be a manual, or a how to. Only follow the instruction from the Manufacturer. This should only be used as pretty pictures. In other words, I take no reasonability if you believe anything I say

Tools needed:
14mm dill bit
Dermal and a metal cutting disk
Place to put strut oil

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/sharijames2002/product_on_table.jpg

First Step
Removed strut and drilled a tiny hole in the bottom center with a small drill bit. I would recommend not drilling it like I did. If you have a vice that would probable be safer.

This is actually me drilling with the 14mm as you can see the top of the strut has already been cut off. This will just give you and idea of how I drilled the holes.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/sharijames2002/drillinghole.jpg

Koni says to drill the small hole then tape over. Then proceed to cut the top portion off.
I found it easier to pump the piston to get rid of the oil, via the hole you just drilled, before cutting off the top. I could only imagine the mess if you follow their instructions.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/sharijames2002/pumpstrut.jpg

After the oil has been removed, drill out the small hole in the bottom of the strut with the 14 mm bit.
Next measure 42 mm from the top of the strut, not the top of my tape shown

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/sharijames2002/Cut-photo.jpg

I cut the first one off with a hand saw, it sucked. The second one I used a dermal tool with a metal cutting disk. It worked great and I got to throw some sparks.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/sharijames2002/sparks.jpg

Next you just have to slide the strut into its new home. Pull down the rubber boot and put the bottom bolt to hold the strut in. I lost the first bolt on the road because of vibration. I would recommend locktite to prevent this from happing to you.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/sharijames2002/rubberboot.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/sharijames2002/Drillinbottom.jpg

Finished product
Eibach sportline and Koni Yellow

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/sharijames2002/finnishproduct.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/sharijames2002/000_0067.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/sharijames2002/000_0068.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/sharijames2002/rearofcar.jpg

As for the rears, they just bolt in. Be careful no to put the spring perch in upside down when putting the rears together. I did, and so have a couple other people. The perch needs to be facing down. You will know if you did it wrong because the rear will not drop at all.

I plan on installing a NOS kit soon, let me know if you are interested in a NOS instillation sticky.

kool, i was planning on getting these but after knowing i had to cut some of the OEM strut for it to fit, i didnt want to spend $550+ for something i have to do more besides direct swap which is why i went with TRD. How's the ride?

Rides Great. I went with Yellows for the adjustablilty and lifetime warranty. In retrospect I should of just bought coil overs but I happy with them. Its a rare setup and she corners very well. When I installed the struts and spring in Feb 06 I think I was the first with this setup.

Nice rite up. I think it's worth mentioning that after you put the bolt in to hold the insert into the stock houseing, be sure to tigheten it again after you put it back on the ground.
I didn't and lost a bolt, so I had to have Koni send me a new one.

Mine with Hothckis ride great! I chose these over the TRD because I could get the fronts now, and the rears later when I can afford them. Also, they are so easy to adjust and it actually makes a big difference depending on what your doing (highway, rough roads, or track)
But I agree with you, James, in that I should have just gone with fully adjustable coilovers to begin with, but hey, you live an you learn.

I am going through the Koni / Tein SS-P debate right now. I really would like the dampening adjustability so I can tighten it up for the weekends/autocross and leave it softer for my 50mi commute to work.

It's easy to say "just go with coilovers" but they are a lot more expensive than the strut/spring combo, and I am not rolling in cash right now.

I know for the Konis and Teins the fronts can be adjusted at the top of the strut tower inside the engine bay. But how hard is it to change the dampening on the rears of the Koni struts? I thought I read somewhere that they need to be taken off.. Same question if anyone knows about the Tein SS-P...

Thanks

GREAT JOB! I thought i would never see a DIY for this, not that i need it though. The dremel is my best friend.

Just showing some applause...

I thought I read somewhere that they need to be taken off.. Same question if anyone knows about the Tein SS-P...

Thanks
Because the way the rear Koni's are designed, they must be completely removed, taken appart from the springs, compressed, twiested, and then put back on. Total PITA.

I'm not sure about the Tein rears.

I thought I read somewhere that they need to be taken off.. Same question if anyone knows about the Tein SS-P...

Thanks
Because the way the rear Koni's are designed, they must be completely removed, taken appart from the springs, compressed, twiested, and then put back on. Total PITA.

I'm not sure about the Tein rears.
Well thanks for the info. That kind of scares me though... Maybe I will just save up for a while more.

Like I said, if I could have waited, i would have gotten fully adjustable coilovers. But then again, I'm not sure how to adjust the Teins. Also, if you find the right setting for the rears, you should be able to just leave them there, and just adjust the fronts a quarter turn this way or that way for street or track.

I would set up both for mild track use, then just turn down the fronts if your streets are rally bad. But I know what you mean. If your paying for fully adjustable, you want to have fully adjustable.

Nice, I was planning on writing a DIY for this when I install mine next week or so. I previously had to do this on my 04 civic, so I know how it goes.

With my civic, all 4 corners were adjustable from inside the car (fronts under the hood, rears in the trunk), but most of the time, despite the really horrible roads in this town, I ran the rears all the way firm. It actually rode pretty well, maybe even better than stock.

I know it's probably different for the tC since it's a different car and weighs 600lbs more, but my suggestion would be to install them, drive around and see how it is, and take it apart and adjust them just to mess around with it. Sure, it may be a few more steps than you'd want (especially compressing the springs and whatnot), but I think it's worth it for how good the Konis really are.

Most of my friends with "JDMTyt3" coilovers usually end up having the dampers blow out at anywhere from 10-30k miles, whereas my civic and 2 of my friends' other cars running Konis had 47k, 72k, and around 50k on them, with no problems at all. And the fact that they can be revalved is a big plus, especially since there's a few places in town that can do it here.

JamesD, I'll still take some step-by-step pics when I end up doing mine, maybe you can add them to your DIY or something.

Sounds cool just send the pics when you get them. The setting is pretty easy to set up. Anything over stock is better and more than 2 turns is asking for back problems. Mine are set at 1.5 turns. Ride is not rough and you can still take entrance loops at 90+. (do not attempt, this was done on a closed course with a professonal driver) :)

That's it. I'm going for coilovers. I'm running my stocks with Hotchkis for only 4K miles and I think I have plenty of time to save up for coilovers before the stocks go. I'm only living in an apartment complex so I would never be attempting to do this. Good luck for those who will. :D

Has this been added to the tech section yet? Or are there just not many people riding the Konis?

Thank You so much for this DIY, if I didnt have this i wouldnt have been able to install my konis

Why hasnt' this been stickied yet?

ahhh awesome, bump for this bc its the first post ive actually been able to answer my question about what has to be done. sweet. ima go konis and stechs,w00t.

great DIY!

yea needs to be stickied ftw

Now there their are more Koni users out there, I think this thread should be stickied.

great DIY

jw does the tokicos have to be cut like these?

I beleive teh tokios are direct replacements...so no.
But they are also not adjustable.

ah idc about adjustable. i just want some good replacements for stock

watching.

wow...watching a dead thread? what exactly do you think it's gonna do?


:silly:

Come back to life of course. LOL

I like how, on the 2nd pic. There's two empty beer bottles -HAHA!

I beleive teh tokios are direct replacements...so no.
But they are also not adjustable.

should be ready by mid 09

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=236502&highlight=

quick question for those whos have koni yellows. I have these in my tC right now, but the metal washer (the one that stays up by the upper perch about the size of a dime) on my rear driverr side fell down to the bump stop. Has this happened to anyone else and does anyone remember how that washer stays up there?

I think there was a little metal ring that goes under that washer in the groove on the shaft, which holds it up. I forget.

sorry...I only got the fronts in...

Does anyone remember the assembly of the strut. For example, i think the white plastic washer goes on the bottom, then the bump stop, then a metal washer, then a smaller metal washer, a black bump stop and the top perch. Not sure i forget, these instructions that come with the struts suck big time. Anyways I have an extra set of used rears that i will prolly need to sell.

i can't remember either, but there are some good pics in this pdf:

http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_files/19425instructions1632621729file.pdf

...you selling used Koni rears? How much and how used?

im thinking 200. they have about 5k on them. thats an over guess estimate too. they need this little metal ring, which would be really cheap to get.

Alright I made the Tech section after 2 years. Do I get a cookie?

my friend has these with ground control coil sleeves and they are nice