I installed the longer wheel studs that came with my 5mm H&R wheel spacers (in the front wheels). It was actually much essayer then I thought. Below is a DIY with some pictures from the install.

Here is a picture of the longer H&R stud next to the stock stud
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/stud_install/stud1.jpg
Start by jacking up only one side of the front of the car and remove the wheel. Here is a picture with stock studs on.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/stud_install/stud2.jpg
From behind the hub, take out the two 17mm bolts that hold the brake caliper and remove the caliper. You will need to have something to support the caliper so that it wont hang by the brake line and possible brake it. I used a few bricks piled up. This picture depicts the two bolts to undo. When reinstalling these bolts they are torqued to 88 N-m / 65 ft-lbs.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/stud_install/stud3.jpg
Once the brake caliper is off the rotor (disk) can slide off by pulling on it. You might need to jiggle it a few times to get it to pop off. The picture below shows the rotor that has been taken off exposing the hub. The red circle around one of the studs shows the stud that is in the position to be banged out with a hammer. Notice that there is no obstruction behind this stud and it can be taken out from behind.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/stud_install/stud4.jpg
After baning out the first stud, you will need to rotate the hub in the direction of the red arrow so that the other studs can be positioned to be removed. To do this you will need to slightly jack up the other side of the front of the car so that the wheel is just barley off the ground.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/stud_install/stud5.jpg
After each stud is banged out, replace it with a new one by sliding it through the hub from the back side. Don't worry about securing it at this point. Bang all four stock studs out and replace with new studs by rotating the the rub. Once you are done doing this let the other side of the car down so that only the side you are working on is jacked up. This will stop the hub from turning while you are working on it. This picture shows a new stud being inserted from the back of the hub
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/stud_install/stud6.jpg
You will next need to secure the new studs so that they are flush with the back of the hub. It is very difficult to try and bang them in with a hammer. A very easy way to get them in is to take a nut, preferably the stock lug nut that you know will fit on the stud, and tighten it on the new stud until the force pulls the stud all the way in.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/stud_install/stud7.jpg
You will probably want to use a torque wrench to get the leverage you need to wedge the new stud all the way in so that it is flush like the stock stud used to fit.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/stud_install/stud8.jpg
After replacing all four studs the hub should look like this.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/stud_install/stud9.jpg
Once you have them on replace the rotor and brake caliper. Torque the two 17mm brake caliper bolts to 88 N-m / 65 ft-lbs. Now you can put your new spacer on. This is a H&R 5mm spacer with the longer studs that came with the kit.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/stud_install/stud10.jpg
Hope this helps. It was not hard at all and is definitely a DIY project. Happy to answer any questions.

nice write up man... very much appreciated, and im sure i speak for other people on this.

I'm glad you showed the correct way to pull a stud through. I've seen people booger the hub by using the conical end of the lugnut :shock:
You should always use the flat side of the lugnut, and a washer is always a nice bit of insurance too.

How about the rear end? I would think that hub spacers are the best way to go, so how about a write up on that?

What is the benefit of running a longer stud and spacer? Wouldn't the spacer change the shear point of the stud and actually make it more likely to break?

The longer studs are needed to run a 10mm spacer. Without them, there aren't enough threads to get a lugnut on there safely. The spacer is to push the wheels out further.

For the rears, I run and would recommend the rear shim spacers from www.onetongarage.com. If you need more than that 10mm, then look at spacers. They make a nice spacer at OTG, as well.

Great write-up Minsk99, we'll get this added to the tech section.

great writeup. But one question.....Will hupcentric rings still work since there is 5mm less to put on the ring to the center of the hub?

Any pics of your XB with this mod done? I'd like to see wth the whole car looks like.

thank u for posting that DIY, im sure many people will benefit from that. i did my rear with extended wheel studs too, i should taken pix.

anyways. post pix of ur ride with the wheels on

Are the rear studs just as easy to remove?

edited

Are the rear studs just as easy to remove?

I just installed extended studs in the rear (I used studs from a 97 Land Cruiser, which are about 10mm longer than the stock rear wheel studs). To do this make sure the parking brake is off. I hit the drum cover with a mallet to get it loose, then it just wiggled off. I used a steel bar between 2 of the studs and the ground (so don't remove all of the studs at once!) to hold the stud hub in place while I tightened the new studs into the hub. I used several washers because the studs from the Land Cruiser had about a 10mm space that didn't have thread on it. It took me a while to figure out how to do this, so I hope this post saves some time for those of you doing this. Good luck!

Sorry, I'm a little confused. I was planning on using Landcruiser studs for the fronts, and potentially the rears. Is this "10mm-of-no-thread" area going to be a problem? Should I not use them? :nails:

I can't confirm this, but I'm pretty sure the Land Cruiser studs are only for the rear of the xB and only for an extra 10mm. The front studs on the xB are longer than the rear ones, so it won't work. If you need to go longer in the front I believe you can order longer studs directly from H&R.

I can't confirm this, but I'm pretty sure the Land Cruiser studs are only for the rear of the xB and only for an extra 10mm. The front studs on the xB are longer than the rear ones, so it won't work.

pdrizzle you're using Landcruiser front studs right? They work in the xB fronts too,I run them.

This proves the xB rear studs are definitely shorter than the fronts. I measured approx 5mm difference between the LC studs and xB fronts. Since pdrizzle said the LC's are 10mm longer than xB rears,this means xB rears are 5mm shorter than xB fronts.

I can't confirm this, but I'm pretty sure the Land Cruiser studs are only for the rear of the xB and only for an extra 10mm. The front studs on the xB are longer than the rear ones, so it won't work.

pdrizzle you're using Landcruiser front studs right? They work in the xB fronts too,I run them.

This proves the xB rear studs are definitely shorter than the fronts. I measured approx 5mm difference between the LC studs and xB fronts. Since pdrizzle said the LC's are 10mm shorter than xB rears,this means xB rears are 5mm shorter than xB fronts.

I can confirm that the xB studs are longer in the front than in the rear. I think you meant to say that the front LC studs are 10mm longer than the rear xB studs, but yeah, your logic seems correct. So the conclusion is that LC front studs can be used with 5mm spacers up front and 10mm spacers in the rear.

I can confirm that the xB studs are longer in the front than in the rear. I think you meant to say that the front LC studs are 10mm longer than the rear xB studs, but yeah, your logic seems correct. So the conclusion is that LC front studs can be used with 5mm spacers up front and 10mm spacers in the rear.

Doh :doh: just caught that,I meant to say longer,just edited my post. I sometimes hit submit too soon LOL.

whatchu know about that, VW put poked rims on the map! :bow:
old pic (before a majority of mods)
but im not running spacers, thas 18x9.5 and 18x8.5 boy
(baddddd pic)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e299/One8Turbo/100_6178.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e299/One8Turbo/aj1.jpg

Nice thread!

I was rolling down the highway a few days back and I heard a pop....
Then I exited and went to where I was needing to be and heard another pop!
I pulled over and 3 out of my 4 studs had snapped.... :nails:
This information is a life saver and a money saver.....
Thanks..... :bow:

Nice thread!

I was rolling down the highway a few days back and I heard a pop....
Then I exited and went to where I was needing to be and heard another pop!
I pulled over and 3 out of my 4 studs had snapped.... :nails:
This information is a life saver and a money saver.....
Thanks..... :bow:

whoa, studs aren't supposed to snap like that.

used this today ..thx

Lookin into the 10mm just for the rear , just wondering if anyone had some before and after shots with the stock steelies and is it a simple put it over the studs and bolt the wheel back up mod or is there a little more to it ? I always thought the rear tires were just too unusually spaced together

good job on the DIY

does anyone know the full specs of the stock studs? i need the knurl and thread size of the factory stud.

how did you manage to break the 17mm bolt free?

Good writeup except for one thing:
You will probably want to use a torque wrench to get the leverage you need to wedge the new stud all the way in so that it is flush like the stock stud used to fit.

Don't EVER EVER use a torque wrench like a breaker bar to get greater leverage. A torque wrench is a delicate & precision calibrated tool and after being used like this it may no longer give a correct torque reading, which could be very dangerous (imaging thinking your lug nuts are torque tight enough when they aren't).

If you need extra leverage go and buy a cheap breaker bar (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=63457-1074-22802&lpage=none), it is well worth spending the $10-$30 on one to save your $50-300 torque wrench.

Good writeup except for one thing:

Don't EVER EVER use a torque wrench like a breaker bar to get greater leverage. A torque wrench is a delicate & precision calibrated tool and after being used like this it may no lo

X2

You might as well throw your torque wrench away after this suggestion.

i can confirm that arp evo extended studs fit the xa. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/dexter_5000/Mods/wheel%20spacers%20and%20studs/0308091814.jpg

i can confirm that arp evo extended studs fit the xa. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/dexter_5000/Mods/wheel%20spacers%20and%20studs/0308091814.jpg


Hi Dexter and everyone,

So the ARP Mitsu Evo extended studs work on the Xa? I assume it will be the same for a 04-06 Xb?
How much longer is the threaded length compared to stock in the rear and front studs?

Why did you go with the ARP Mitsu Evo extended studs instead of the ARP Honda extended studs - as I believe the Honda and Evo have the same thread - 12mm x 1.5?

I ask because I need to replace my stock studs on my 2005 Xb as the Volk wheels I have allow me to only thread on my lug nuts about 5 turns when tightend in the rear. In addition I would like to install some 5mm or 10mm spacers to rear in order bring out the wheels a bit more flush with the rear wheel well.

Would any of these work for as extended replacements for the rear and front wheel studs...
http://www.hrsprings.com/applications/studs

Thanks in advance for the info!

Will

went with the evo studs cause the knurl diameter is the same not sure how much longer than stock these are. someone else did fit them on the rear i haven't gotten that far yet though.

I was wondering would this be the same steps on a TC?

Thanks for DIY

used this today ..thx

In 2008^
and again today due to one snapping off.. :cry:

Anybody have a more in-depth walkthrough (with pics) on how to remove the studs in the rear drum brakes?

in order to install longer studs in the rear you'll have to remove the rear hub assembly completely. just not enough room to put the longer studs back there with it installed. i tried a few times and just ended up replacing them with stock ones.

if you just need to change them. have to pop off the drum. the studs themselves will just hammer out. then to install the new one you need to use an over sized nut as a spacer and a lug nut threaded on the stud tighten the lug nut will suck in the stud.