sleeving the block

smallblockurs10 · Joined: 19 Jul 2005 Posts: 52 Location: SFV

hey guys ive got a problem, ive got my stock motor smoking from blow by so bad i cant drive the car anymore, but ive got some forged pistons, rod and main bearings, and a head gasket at home

im deciding should i build a new motor or buy a used one from a salvage yard. it will cost me 1200 for the used one

btw do i need to sleeve the block?

i plan on getting the k1 rods and arp main and head studs if i do this but my question is do i need to sleeve the block for the new pistons? if i do how much would this cost? thanks for the input

B_Real45 · Joined: 14 Dec 2007 Posts: 1322 Location: South Florida

I would sleeve it if you're looking to run really high boost (20+) and over 400whp. It's not necessary - but if you're building a block from scratch, why not have that extra security.

Contact ERL for their sleeving services.

For your new pistons you don't really NEED to have it sleeved - you need to have it honed and bored to the spec's of the piston.

Ace83 · Joined: 26 Aug 2006 Posts: 5783 Location: TX

I would sleeve the block if i built it.. not really needed though if you just run med boost but as mentioned its for extra insurance since you are building a high stress machine.. important thing though is to find a reliable shop that can build it

Joe_Dezod · Joined: 30 Dec 2004 Posts: 2928 Location: Mesa, AZ

Depends on how much you want your build to cost.

If you plan on upgrading your intake manifold, customizing the fuel rail, running a stand-alone, and some large turbo, then you should sleeve it.

If you're looking for 400whp reliably, then I would suggest that you buy a standalone EMS instead and just put in the pistons and rods. The stock sleeves are pretty stout.

Ace83 · Joined: 26 Aug 2006 Posts: 5783 Location: TX

So for like 350-400 hp, a simple piston and rod upgrade will do reliably? I already have a standalone to start with, as soon as I find a shop i can trust to do the build, i might go for it..