I'm trying to make my 06 tC all performance...
12-01-2014, 02:54 AM
#1
I'm trying to make my 06 tC all performance...
Just bought an 06 tC 5-speed about 2 weeks ago and it does needs a little TLC. It does has 158,400 miles and hope it lasts me at least good 100,000 miles but, who knows... I never drove a Toyota before, So any pointers would be helpful. Anyways, I would like to get my car all performance thru-out next year. So, Got alot of work in ahead of me, lol.
Well, if you want...can you give me your opinion on what performance parts is the best (brand names or just parts) to install.
Gas grade (87, 89, 91)
Spark plugs
spark plug wires
Air Filter (actually I only use K&R)
Exhaust system
flywheel/clutch
brakes (silver, gold, platium)
Etc...
It does has a body kit front/rear but, no spoiler on it yet. I'll post a pic of my car (hopefully in a few days)
Anyways, thanks.....btw, when first got the car, I did changed the oil and checked tire pressure and started using the 89 gas grade. Did notice that my car was running alittle rough on 87 but, guess things are starting to run smoothly with 89. Also, changed the Surpertine belt. Any feedbacks will be helpful. Thanks again
Well, if you want...can you give me your opinion on what performance parts is the best (brand names or just parts) to install.
Gas grade (87, 89, 91)
Spark plugs
spark plug wires
Air Filter (actually I only use K&R)
Exhaust system
flywheel/clutch
brakes (silver, gold, platium)
Etc...
It does has a body kit front/rear but, no spoiler on it yet. I'll post a pic of my car (hopefully in a few days)
Anyways, thanks.....btw, when first got the car, I did changed the oil and checked tire pressure and started using the 89 gas grade. Did notice that my car was running alittle rough on 87 but, guess things are starting to run smoothly with 89. Also, changed the Surpertine belt. Any feedbacks will be helpful. Thanks again
Last edited by MR_LUV; 10-15-2017 at 04:23 PM. Reason: typo
12-03-2014, 04:17 PM
#2
Gas grade (87, 89, 91) -- 87 is fine. The change you feel is in your head.
Spark plugs -- NGK Iridium, the key here is Iridium.
spark plug wires -- Negative. Coilpacks.
Air Filter (actually I only use K&R) -- Then why ask? I like K&N.
Exhaust system -- TRD is popular for the I don't want attention crowd.
flywheel/clutch -- Anything you find should work, ACT, clutchmasters, etc.
brakes (silver, gold, platium) -- I like EBC.
Any questions?
Spark plugs -- NGK Iridium, the key here is Iridium.
spark plug wires -- Negative. Coilpacks.
Air Filter (actually I only use K&R) -- Then why ask? I like K&N.
Exhaust system -- TRD is popular for the I don't want attention crowd.
flywheel/clutch -- Anything you find should work, ACT, clutchmasters, etc.
brakes (silver, gold, platium) -- I like EBC.
Any questions?
12-05-2014, 12:52 PM
#4
Pros:
Cool whistle sound when in throttle.
I suppose it adds to performance.
Fancy colored intake tube under the hood.
Cons:
$300 for a metal pipe.
Puddles are suddenly car killers.
There really is no performance gain.
You'll probably break the midpoint mount in your engine bay due to engine movement.
Up to you. Personally, I'd start in suspension. You'll get way more fun out of that.
EDIT: You're currently in VB?
Last edited by Basebllstar; 12-05-2014 at 01:05 PM.
12-05-2014, 02:14 PM
#5
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 866
Agreed, suspension is where to start. If you're on original shocks with that mileage, it's likely time to replace regardless. Springs and shocks (or coilovers) and a trd rear sway bar would do nicely.
Also, with essentially stock power, leave the clutch alone and just replace when your current one starts to slip. There is little measurable performance to be gained by using a performance clutch on an engine with bolt ons. Performance clutches increase wear and tear on clutch hydraulics and should only be considered when necessary (i.e. making considerably more power using FI). You'll end up replacing these parts more often.
Also, with essentially stock power, leave the clutch alone and just replace when your current one starts to slip. There is little measurable performance to be gained by using a performance clutch on an engine with bolt ons. Performance clutches increase wear and tear on clutch hydraulics and should only be considered when necessary (i.e. making considerably more power using FI). You'll end up replacing these parts more often.
12-08-2014, 05:10 PM
#6
Depends on how you define better:
Pros:
Cool whistle sound when in throttle.
I suppose it adds to performance.
Fancy colored intake tube under the hood.
Cons:
$300 for a metal pipe.
Puddles are suddenly car killers.
There really is no performance gain.
You'll probably break the midpoint mount in your engine bay due to engine movement.
Up to you. Personally, I'd start in suspension. You'll get way more fun out of that.
EDIT: You're currently in VB?
Pros:
Cool whistle sound when in throttle.
I suppose it adds to performance.
Fancy colored intake tube under the hood.
Cons:
$300 for a metal pipe.
Puddles are suddenly car killers.
There really is no performance gain.
You'll probably break the midpoint mount in your engine bay due to engine movement.
Up to you. Personally, I'd start in suspension. You'll get way more fun out of that.
EDIT: You're currently in VB?
I can feel almost every bump in the road, so it's probably long overdue for new suspension. The guy who had this Scion Tc last, haven't took good care of the car. The oil haven't changed since back in Feb 2014 (according to the oil change sticker on the window), the carbon filter was completely black, the air filter was dirty, the transmission fluid is dark red, tire pressure was very low. Driver's side Drive Axle Seal is leaking...The list goes on, lol. Can only imagine how bad the suspension is. Didn't get the chance to look thru everything on the car yet. Probably should had waited to buy a new Scion but, couldn't afford $400+ a month and yet, again it's hard to afford used ones as well with maintenance. We can't win!
Yep, currently I do live in VB (about 15 mins from the ocean front). Was from Pennsylvania though
Last edited by 06ScionTc5sp1; 12-08-2014 at 05:47 PM. Reason: needed to add a few more things
12-08-2014, 05:24 PM
#7
Agreed, suspension is where to start. If you're on original shocks with that mileage, it's likely time to replace regardless. Springs and shocks (or coilovers) and a trd rear sway bar would do nicely.
Also, with essentially stock power, leave the clutch alone and just replace when your current one starts to slip. There is little measurable performance to be gained by using a performance clutch on an engine with bolt ons. Performance clutches increase wear and tear on clutch hydraulics and should only be considered when necessary (i.e. making considerably more power using FI). You'll end up replacing these parts more often.
Also, with essentially stock power, leave the clutch alone and just replace when your current one starts to slip. There is little measurable performance to be gained by using a performance clutch on an engine with bolt ons. Performance clutches increase wear and tear on clutch hydraulics and should only be considered when necessary (i.e. making considerably more power using FI). You'll end up replacing these parts more often.
Great point about leaving the clutch alone...til' it slips. The clutch is in good condition right now. I can start out in 2nd or 3rd gear without a problem. So yeah, guess it wouldn't be wise to replace it with a performance clutch on an engine with bolt ons. Probably it does have bolt ons, knowing my luck. Btw, what is FI?
Last edited by 06ScionTc5sp1; 12-08-2014 at 06:02 PM.
12-09-2014, 12:54 PM
#8
I was thinking on the lines of cold air intake, maybe getting more better fuel mileage with more air flow. Not sure if that makes sense though, lol. Well, with the way it whistles I like the sound of that. Of course, wouldn't mind installing an Turbo booster but, then again probably wouldn't gain nothing there except for HP either. Yeah, You do got a good point with the pros/cons. Especially with the midpoint mount might break due engine movement.
I can feel almost every bump in the road, so it's probably long overdue for new suspension. The guy who had this Scion Tc last, haven't took good care of the car. The oil haven't changed since back in Feb 2014 (according to the oil change sticker on the window), the carbon filter was completely black, the air filter was dirty, the transmission fluid is dark red, tire pressure was very low. Driver's side Drive Axle Seal is leaking...The list goes on, lol. Can only imagine how bad the suspension is. Didn't get the chance to look thru everything on the car yet. Probably should had waited to buy a new Scion but, couldn't afford $400+ a month and yet, again it's hard to afford used ones as well with maintenance. We can't win!
Yep, currently I do live in VB (about 15 mins from the ocean front). Was from Pennsylvania though
I can feel almost every bump in the road, so it's probably long overdue for new suspension. The guy who had this Scion Tc last, haven't took good care of the car. The oil haven't changed since back in Feb 2014 (according to the oil change sticker on the window), the carbon filter was completely black, the air filter was dirty, the transmission fluid is dark red, tire pressure was very low. Driver's side Drive Axle Seal is leaking...The list goes on, lol. Can only imagine how bad the suspension is. Didn't get the chance to look thru everything on the car yet. Probably should had waited to buy a new Scion but, couldn't afford $400+ a month and yet, again it's hard to afford used ones as well with maintenance. We can't win!
Yep, currently I do live in VB (about 15 mins from the ocean front). Was from Pennsylvania though
As for the breaking of the mount, I would recommend a Dr. Isotope CAI panel. It'll hold the CAI pretty firm where it enters the quarter panel and then you don't necessarily have to hook up that part of the mount. That's what I ended up doing.
Fortunately for you, the car is fairly easy to do regular maintenance on. This is a good car to learn with.
I'm also in VB, I'll probably see you around here. You can't miss me, I have Neon Yellow rims.
12-09-2014, 02:33 PM
#9
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SL Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 866
Did noticed that the suspension will need replacing, also Tires. I can feel almost every bump in the road, Thinking about replacing them after, getting my car new spark plugs, oxygen sensors or something that is causing the check engine light to come on. Requardless, it will need new spark plugs. In your opinion, what brand would you say is better on suspension? (if there is any certain kind) Usually I buy parts that is cheapest with the other vehicles I had but, never had a sports car before, til' now.
Great point about leaving the clutch alone...til' it slips. The clutch is in good condition right now. I can start out in 2nd or 3rd gear without a problem. So yeah, guess it wouldn't be wise to replace it with a performance clutch on an engine with bolt ons. Probably it does have bolt ons, knowing my luck. Btw, what is FI?
Great point about leaving the clutch alone...til' it slips. The clutch is in good condition right now. I can start out in 2nd or 3rd gear without a problem. So yeah, guess it wouldn't be wise to replace it with a performance clutch on an engine with bolt ons. Probably it does have bolt ons, knowing my luck. Btw, what is FI?
Regarding suspension, if you think you are feeling bumps now, that will only get worse with a performance suspension. It'll fix the floating feeling and body roll for sure, but you will fell more since the stock setup is way soft and does a decent job at smoothing out the bumps.
I noticed you mentioned the trans fluid was dark red. Do you have a manual trans? Because gear oil is not supposed to be red.
12-17-2014, 12:47 AM
#10
As for fuel mileage, you likely won't see a difference. But it won't hurt anything.
As for the breaking of the mount, I would recommend a Dr. Isotope CAI panel. It'll hold the CAI pretty firm where it enters the quarter panel and then you don't necessarily have to hook up that part of the mount. That's what I ended up doing.
Fortunately for you, the car is fairly easy to do regular maintenance on. This is a good car to learn with.
I'm also in VB, I'll probably see you around here. You can't miss me, I have Neon Yellow rims.
As for the breaking of the mount, I would recommend a Dr. Isotope CAI panel. It'll hold the CAI pretty firm where it enters the quarter panel and then you don't necessarily have to hook up that part of the mount. That's what I ended up doing.
Fortunately for you, the car is fairly easy to do regular maintenance on. This is a good car to learn with.
I'm also in VB, I'll probably see you around here. You can't miss me, I have Neon Yellow rims.
Yeah, noticed that these Scions has alot of space, better than being clamped with no knuckle room with these new cars, lol.
I live on Ferrell Parkway, work on Battlefield Blvd. Guess, you'll be easy to see you on the streets then
12-17-2014, 03:13 PM
#11
By FI, I mean Forced Induction such as a turbo kit or supercharger. With intake and exhaust components, you make some power, but really not a lot. I will comment that my MPGs when up by about 2 on average with intake, header and exhaust. It sounded terrible so I put the stock exhaust back on and left the other two.
Regarding suspension, if you think you are feeling bumps now, that will only get worse with a performance suspension. It'll fix the floating feeling and body roll for sure, but you will fell more since the stock setup is way soft and does a decent job at smoothing out the bumps.
I noticed you mentioned the trans fluid was dark red. Do you have a manual trans? Because gear oil is not supposed to be red.
Regarding suspension, if you think you are feeling bumps now, that will only get worse with a performance suspension. It'll fix the floating feeling and body roll for sure, but you will fell more since the stock setup is way soft and does a decent job at smoothing out the bumps.
I noticed you mentioned the trans fluid was dark red. Do you have a manual trans? Because gear oil is not supposed to be red.
I think everything in my car is stock, so guess that would lies the problem with adding performance parts, oh man! was looking forward to it, lol.
Thanks for the feedbackAbout my tranny, yes, my car is a manual (5speed). According to the repair shop mechanic, as he was changing the oil, he mentioned the tranny fluid.. He said, my driver's side Drive Axle seal is leaking, which I will get that fixed after this month is over. Don't know if the drive axle seal has anything to do with the tranny fluid being dark red but, I might need to get it flush out soon to be on the safe side.
12-18-2014, 04:30 PM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 866
I'm running Redline MT90 right now. It's not red, it's a light amber like most other oils. I'm actually using this oil to lube up the bearings and shift forks for my LSD install.
If your oil is red, someone may have put in ATF fluid in by mistake, as there is nothing that would make it turn red over time. You want to make sure you drain it all and replace with a proper 75W90 gear oil so you don't prematurely wear out your synchros. Make sure it is a GL-4 oil, not GL-5. Redline MT90 is a good choice, or even the factor stuff from Toyota. Be careful with what you choose, as most of what you get at the stores is a GL-5 or GL-4/GL-5, which are not recommended for a synchronized gearbox. You'll need ~2.5 qts, so buy 3.
If your oil is red, someone may have put in ATF fluid in by mistake, as there is nothing that would make it turn red over time. You want to make sure you drain it all and replace with a proper 75W90 gear oil so you don't prematurely wear out your synchros. Make sure it is a GL-4 oil, not GL-5. Redline MT90 is a good choice, or even the factor stuff from Toyota. Be careful with what you choose, as most of what you get at the stores is a GL-5 or GL-4/GL-5, which are not recommended for a synchronized gearbox. You'll need ~2.5 qts, so buy 3.
12-18-2014, 06:58 PM
#15
Nice touch up with the Dr. Isotope CAI panel. Never heard of Dr. Isotope and their products but, now got something to work with. Thanks for the info
Yeah, noticed that these Scions has alot of space, better than being clamped with no knuckle room with these new cars, lol.
I live on Ferrell Parkway, work on Battlefield Blvd. Guess, you'll be easy to see you on the streets then
Yeah, noticed that these Scions has alot of space, better than being clamped with no knuckle room with these new cars, lol.
I live on Ferrell Parkway, work on Battlefield Blvd. Guess, you'll be easy to see you on the streets then
12-21-2014, 07:21 AM
#19
I'm running Redline MT90 right now. It's not red, it's a light amber like most other oils. I'm actually using this oil to lube up the bearings and shift forks for my LSD install.
If your oil is red, someone may have put in ATF fluid in by mistake, as there is nothing that would make it turn red over time. You want to make sure you drain it all and replace with a proper 75W90 gear oil so you don't prematurely wear out your synchros. Make sure it is a GL-4 oil, not GL-5. Redline MT90 is a good choice, or even the factor stuff from Toyota. Be careful with what you choose, as most of what you get at the stores is a GL-5 or GL-4/GL-5, which are not recommended for a synchronized gearbox. You'll need ~2.5 qts, so buy 3.
If your oil is red, someone may have put in ATF fluid in by mistake, as there is nothing that would make it turn red over time. You want to make sure you drain it all and replace with a proper 75W90 gear oil so you don't prematurely wear out your synchros. Make sure it is a GL-4 oil, not GL-5. Redline MT90 is a good choice, or even the factor stuff from Toyota. Be careful with what you choose, as most of what you get at the stores is a GL-5 or GL-4/GL-5, which are not recommended for a synchronized gearbox. You'll need ~2.5 qts, so buy 3.
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