Voltage Stabilizer Installation
Hi everyone,
Here is the instruction of how to make a voltage stabilizer for our cars. Although it has many names such as hypervoltage system, ground or volt stabilizer, they are all the same. Their prices range from $60-$220, but you can do it yourself for less than $40. :) . Personally, I don't know exactly what is inside the box. So what I describe below is based on my knowledge as an electrical engineer. The voltage stabilizer is used as a filter and a secondary voltage storage for your car. Although the battery itself acts as a large capacitor, it doesn't respond to all current fluctuation in your car. Voltage stabilizer help supplying or absorbing transient current so that electrical interference is suppressed and more energy from the alternator is stored. As a result, the engine will run smoother and quieter. Its throttle response will improve. You also get more miles from your gas. It consists of capacitors connected in parallel. High capacitor value should be use to maximize the filtering effect. Both electrolytic and ceramic capacitors should be use to cover broad frequency range. For battery protection, I add a 3-5A fuse. You can dress it up with some LED lights, but it will just drain up your battery a bit. Here is the part list: 1. 3-foot 4 or 8AWG wire and 2 ring terminals 2. Plastic enclosure 3. 4 16V Electrolytic capacitors 4. 4 16V Ceramic capacitors 5. A fuse and a fuse holder 6. 2-side sticky tape 7. Pre-drilled PCB board First, Cut the wire and connect each wire with a ring terminal. Then drill 2 holes on the plastic box. Align capacitors in parallel on the PCB board and solder them. Be aware that the electrolytic capacitors have polarity. You should connect all the capacitor's negative terminals to the same point of the PCB board and similary for the positive terminal as shown in the schematic. https://www.scionlife.com/gallery/da...26Drawing2.jpg This is what inside the box. wires, PCB, CAPs, a fuse and a fuse holder: https://www.scionlife.com/gallery/da...sidethebox.jpg Zoom in image of the caps https://www.scionlife.com/gallery/data/500/8326Caps.jpg Then connect one of the fuse holder port to the positive terminal of the capacitors. Insert the positive wire though the box and solder it the PCB board at the other end of the fuse holder. After that, insert the negative wire though the box and solder it the PCB board. Close the box's lid and your voltage stabilizer will look some thing like this: https://www.scionlife.com/gallery/sh...sort=4&cat=500 Installation: Just connect its + terminal to the + battery terminal and then connect - terminal to the - battery terminal. You will see some spark :twisted: . It would be best to charge the unit with a power supply before you hook it up to the battery. I stick my voltage stabilizer on top of the fuse box using a piece of sticky tape. The ECU needs about 1-2 days to adjust itself once you install the your voltage stabilizer, but you should see some improvement immediately. The system should last for at least 3-5 years. IMPORTANT NOTE! Improper connections may cause the fuse to break or it may drain your car's battery. Good luck! :) *Administrator's Note: The OP's Original Images from 12/2004 have long Expired _____ |
Mike (Mikochu), please put this in the Tech section!
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Another Mad Mike creation I'll have to try!
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man i need some better pics of how it is all connected to the board. i'm pretty sure id fry somethin or just make a really crappy looking plastic crap box.
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The stuff inside doesn't look that pretty to show, that what the plastic box is for :). Anyway, make sure that the wiring for the positive terminal is not connected to the wiring of th neganative both inside or outside of the box and you won't fry anything .
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no i wanna see the wiring in and out of the capacitors.
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OK, I'm not a electrical engineer, but I would love to know what current four little electrolytic capacitors can supply that a full-size lead-acid starting battery cannot. I wasn't aware of any great current time-lag, or internal resistance losses in such a battery.
Now, I can see the advantage of a capacitor on the far end of a long wire run next to a device (like an audio amp) that has transient high current needs. It fills in the voltage drop caused by drawing large currents through the wire. Next to the battery, this advantage seems to be lost. Also, wouldn't it be easier to use one larger capacitor instead of several smaller caps in parallel? I note that you didn't specify a value for the caps except for a voltage. 16V seems me to be cutting it a bit close on a system running ~14V. 25V would be safer, I've seen these devices built for the Japanese market, housed in transparent boxes showing off the row of electrolytics, but frankly it seems like nicely-packaged snake oil to me. |
this may be . i wanna see some company with any type of this get individually dynoed and un-biased tests with cars other than the owners ones
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OK, I'm not a electrical engineer, but I would love to know what current four little electrolytic capacitors can supply that a full-size lead-acid starting battery cannot. I wasn't aware of any great current time-lag, or internal resistance losses in such a battery. Also, wouldn't it be easier to use one larger capacitor instead of several smaller caps in parallel? I use 16V caps because I can get higher capacitor values. It is more compact and cheaper ;) . Yes, the battery is running at 14V and It won't go above that, unless there is something wrong with the alternator and the battery will be damaged anyway. I was first thinking about using the 25V caps, then I find justifications to use the 16V caps instead. The capacitor can withstand voltage ripple of more than 16V, but it cannot withstand "steady" voltage of more than 16V, so it should be safe. The main reason I make this myself is that I want to know if it works without spending too much money on it. |
can we see a visual picture of the insides pls
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I'm too lazy right now to take of its lid and take a picture in the cold weather :wink: . Anyway, I will post the picture of the inside.
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I'll "FAQtify" this thread once a more thorough tutorial is made...either by Kong, myself, or someone else. For now, it will be sticky'd.
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Sorry guys, I totally forgot to take a photo inside the voltage stabilizer box. I'll do it this week end.
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not this weekend do it now, lol
your so lazy :silly: |
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They sell something like this on EBay and I couldn't imagine
what it was, though I do understand basic electronics. Thanks for your description Kong. Seeing as how I'm teaching myself to build Vacuum Tube Guitar amps, your ripple filter makes much more sense now. All you need is a spiffy chrome box to put it in! |
just a surrealistic idear
make a voltage stablizer out of the vacuum tubes boy that would be so OLD school!!! |
As promised, I have taken some photos and added to thread above. Now you see what are inside.
If you have any question about how to make it, feel free to PM me. Happy moding :) |
where the 4 16V Ceramic capacitors at???
and from your pic on your car it looks like its hooked up stright to your pos. and neg. terminals, is that right??? :eyebrow: :eyebrow: :eyebrow: |
Originally Posted by hornet_on_flower
where the 4 16V Ceramic capacitors at???
and from your pic on your car it looks like its hooked up stright to your pos. and neg. terminals, is that right??? :eyebrow: :eyebrow: :eyebrow: |
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