alienvictim

(update) removed rear subframe and fuel tank.

I cleaned out the fuel tank and brazed the damaged spots shut with OF/gas so no more leaks.

I also replaced my rear lower control arms with IS300 control arms that i cut down to the correct size and lap welded the seams.
This allowed the normal rear tC coils to compress correctly and have the right travel. I also reinforced the subframe to make it stronger..

Also you will need to replace the inner bushings on the is control arms, they are too small in diameter and the adjustment bolts on the ST205 subframe will not fit.

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now to yank the trans and replace it. than we should be good.

I'm still undecided on if i want to use my 20g or an hx40 i have. decisions lol

That's it for that update. almost fixed

alienvictim

UPDATE!!! the car isnt running yet!! haha but i pulled the trans and motor to look at the transmission thinking it was the issue. (sounded like a box of nails in a blender)

found this instead when i cracked the trans off the motor.





so basically after i built the living ____ out of my 2azfe, and than was doing the last pull while street tuning i murdered my friction disc rated at 400ft lbs of torque..

that friction disc had 800 miles of break in and thats all.. i guess ill have to get a better clutch before i start doing dig wot pulls again lol...

i was completely wrong about it being my trans that failed... oh well i will install the st205 transmission and keep the older st185 trans as a back up.

so looks like it will be a few weeks lol.

alienvictim

well ordered a new friction disc. turned out that the pressure plate on the car was the wrong part number for the kit.. but in a good way. instead of being the 400 ft lb pressure plate i had the 500 ft lb pressure plate. so i ordered the 6 puck sprung plate rated for 500 ft lb (wanted to do more but this is what i could afford)

hopefully it should be here next week and than i can assemble everything again with the new st205 transmission and try to break this clutch too lol.

getting there.

alienvictim

well clutch came next day, couldn't believe it. a sprung 6 puck rated at 500
torque so this should hold.. (i hope) im not a huge fan of the unsprung friction
discs at least above 300. the friction disc splines have trouble keeping up.

got the new trans modified to clear the block, and swapped over most of the
goodies from the other transmission so so now im taking the time to do some
clean up on the engine bay. clean up some of the corrosion from sitting.

than i am going to see if i can make the st205 calipers work on our stock
rotors with the use of a caliper bracket, have to get the metal for them but if
this works out we will have a way of getting 4 pot calipers as big as willwoods
for 200 bucks.. or whatever price you find them on ebay

than its putting it back in the car..feels like forever but i'm almost there.

alienvictim

well got the motor and transmission in, hooked up most everything just have the
turbo manifold, turbo and accessories to reattach, jack the car up and install
the drive shaft do the alignment work and double check all of the bolts.

than go in and have the tire shop install my enkei rpf1 wheels, and also watch
their faces when it goes up on the lift. suprise! not front wheel drive haha.

FIREDOG21

UN-F*#%ING-BELIEVABLE!!!!


This is EXACTLY what ive been looking to do to my tC!! _____ part is my motor seized up on Thursday last week... so now she is sitting on jack stands in my garage.


Awesome job in trail blazing this path!!

hata

iTrader: (1)

that's so awesome. keep it up!

alienvictim

I think its what most tC owners want lol hahaha and thank you .

That sucks sorry man, my previous engine seized up.. pulled it apart to analyze the failure.. turned out that my upgraded clutch was destroying my thrust bearing on startup due to dry starts (because you have to hold the clutch in to start the car)
the shavings went straight to the oil pump and killed it.. and basically murdered my bearings..

If you can disable that switch if you upgrade your clutch to a higher torque or hp rated clutch.. I just wrapped mine with tape so the switch is depressed and ziptied it up.. if you do this check what gear your in before starting your car everytime..

Appreciated!! Thanks man!

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FIREDOG21

Hmmm... Well I still have the stock clutch from factory (93,000 miles on it and still grabby as all hell with no slippage what-so-ever!!!!) So I don't think that was the failure... I read up on the TSB on oil consumption and I may be victim of a very thirsty motor hahaha but I appreciate the condolences!!

But I like the switch trick... May have to rig that up!! Photo attached is from today's continuing tear out...

alienvictim

You going to drop the subframe or try to chery pick the motor out.. i found its much easier to lower the motor and trans on the subframe out below the car on a furniture dolly, than jack the frame up and pull all of it out from underneath.

I hate trying to unbolt the trans in the engine bay.. just crazy lol

But anyways good luck man!

Oh also i have just got the tc up and running. I think i have a manifold to turbo leak so i have to fix that.

But its back up and running. Glad to have it back haha.

FIREDOG21

Yeah I already have the car sitting on its frame on jack stands and gonna pull it from the top. Dunno... just how ive always done a motor swap... the trans will stay attached until I get it out as an entire piece...


I will say that the engineers definitely packed 8 lbs of **** into a 2 lb bag in the engine bay!!


Installed the new Megan drift spec exhaust tonight and almost done with the intake side of the motor... almost ready to pull!


Great to hear she's up and running again!! Move vids and pics!!

alienvictim

hahaha yeah it can get a little tight, sounds good posting now!

went to the local tire store and got my rpf1 wheels mounted. unfortunately one of
the "tech" there crack the hoop of one in half.. i was annoyed until the manager
stepped up and said they were buying me a new wheel.





these are videos from starting it up after redoing a massive amount of stuff. i
guess the gasket failed from whatever and there's a substantial wastegate
leak so i ordered new gaskets and also sent my downpipe to a friends to be
welded. i have an arc welder and i can weld stainless just not thin gauge or
to make it nice looking.

here are the videos of first start though to hold people over. btw there is a huge
gasket leak going on in the videos when its revved.

video 1

video 2

but its alive i drove it to the tire shop and back. because of that manifold leak its
running really rich in boost to the point of sputtering. so getting that fixed this week
and should help that. will be until next week until i get the downpipe back and
the new wheel to finish my rpf1 set and than the gasket for the downpipe.

with the new modified is300 control arms the rear suspension actually now feels like
it should and it feels really planted as well which is great news.

Awdbuilder

Was their more rear subframes assembles at the place you got that one from

alienvictim

not sure i actually bought it off of an ebay seller from canada.

alienvictim

If either this transmission or motor fails for whatever reason i'm going to be converting the car to rwd and putting a v8 into it.. i love projects so its no biggie.

Currently fixing a friend's tC and doing a motor rebuild to get a real engine management system for my tC, the AEM F/IC just doesn't cut it.

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Kanchi

iTrader: (4)

Locked per OP request.