Turbo kit; don't want to tap into the pan
#1
Turbo kit; don't want to tap into the pan
I'm building a 2AZ for a guy who picked up a Turbonetics kit for his '05 tC. He sent the installation instructions so we would know how to tap the pan.
First off, I can't believe that Turbonetics actually tells you to punch into the pan and tap the sheet metal while it's still attached to the motor. That just blows my mind. Whatever.
What I'd prefer to do is tap into the aluminum upper pan, rather than the stamped steel part. The aluminum is nice and thick, and will hold whatever fitting we end up using MUCH more securely. Should also keep the return outlet above the oil line in the pan. This is easy to do, since right now, the upper pan is not installed yet.
That being said, we don't have the car. So, has anyone done this? Where would it be safe to drill and tap where the return line won't get in the way of anything else?
Thanks!
First off, I can't believe that Turbonetics actually tells you to punch into the pan and tap the sheet metal while it's still attached to the motor. That just blows my mind. Whatever.
What I'd prefer to do is tap into the aluminum upper pan, rather than the stamped steel part. The aluminum is nice and thick, and will hold whatever fitting we end up using MUCH more securely. Should also keep the return outlet above the oil line in the pan. This is easy to do, since right now, the upper pan is not installed yet.
That being said, we don't have the car. So, has anyone done this? Where would it be safe to drill and tap where the return line won't get in the way of anything else?
Thanks!
#3
I think that's what covers the balance shafts and other stuff (not 100% sure). I don't think anyone has done that, but you shouldn't worry about tapping the lower oil pan. Most (if not all) of us F/I guys have the lower pan tapped with no problem. You should remove it from the motor first, then mark out where the fitting goes, then punch through and drill out the holes. You can either tap the pan or weld a bung onto it. Another alternative is Dezod's Insta-tap fitting (no tapping necessary). Just fit it into the drilled holes, use the provided self tapping screws and add a little bit of JB Weld to make sure it's nicely sealed and won't go anywhere. I've had mine that way for 3 years now and not a single issue with it (other than the screws protruding too much and scraping up the AN fitting, but you can just chop off the excess length once it's in and secured).
#4
That'll be easy, as neither the upper pan* or lower pan is installed yet. The balance shafts have been completely eliminated, too. Manley rods, Wiseco pistons, etc, etc.
A quick search on here shows pretty good results with drilling into the oil pan, but it still worries me. I'm going to have to think about this a bit.
*Toyota calls it the "STIFFENING CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY". I'm used to the 2J's, which have an aluminum upper and stamped steel lower oil pan.
A quick search on here shows pretty good results with drilling into the oil pan, but it still worries me. I'm going to have to think about this a bit.
*Toyota calls it the "STIFFENING CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY". I'm used to the 2J's, which have an aluminum upper and stamped steel lower oil pan.
#10
Just make sure the return hose length is adjusted and routed so that it's not rubbing on anything or hanging too loose. Most kits have the line cut to length assuming it's going to the oil pan. You have the fitting much higher.
#11
That's a little over engineered but hey, it'll work. Plus it's different which gives you cool points Kind of funny he is built out on a Tnetics kit, assuming it's the stock kit.
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