Two days of back breaking labor and I finally finished. I have done some research and homework on sound deadening / insulation until I decided on what product I wanted to use, but fell short on advice and photos as to how it goes in to the tC. As we all know the stock tC is a NOISE BOX on the highway. I am not responsible for anything that breaks or any problems that may arise. NO your interior wont fit the EXACT same way, but if you have patience you can make it fit 99% perfect. Final product
I bought 98 square feet (3 bulk packs) of mat, and I only used 72 square feet of roll-on, adhesive butyl based deadening mat with aluminum backing. Stinger Audio Roadkill Expert. seen here
I bought 24 square feet (two 32" x 54") carped pads with vinyl backing. Stinger Audio Roadkill. I used all of the padding. seen here
My BEST friend while installing the deadening mat was the Marshalltown roller. I used both ends of this thing and abused it. I am glad I didn't get a cheap one. seen here
A few other things that I used: Acetone, rubber gloves, microfiber towels, paper towels, heavy duty scissors, razor knife.
I also replaced ever plastic clip along the way to ensure tight panel fitment, I wanted it to be perfect. I have a list of the clips I ordered from Toyota if you would like to PM me about it.
The first step is disassembling your interior. Let me say this, if you are uncomfortable disassembling your interior, then installing this sound deader is probably not the job for you. It requires logic to visualize the panel fitment when the car is taken apart so you can place the deadener in areas that wont interfere with fitment of panels. The mat was like a big jigsaw puzzle in the making. This is very time consuming but worth it to those who are willing. Also, if you have trouble taking it all apart, then you definitely will struggle getting it all to fit right, because this deadener will occupy more space and make things tighter. Start here thanks to MANDOS from Scion Life
Once the interior is apart you have a blank canvas. Preparation is key to successful adhesion of the mat. Vacuum out all areas inside the fenders and on the floor, then with rubber gloves on and acetone, wipe down any surface you are visualizing the mat.
Even small areas on any flat piece of sheet metal could use some insulation. If you want to get tricky you could
scrape up the stock deadener. My motto is the more the merrier. So I insulated over the factory deadening too. I layed the deadener in the same order I re-install my interior, back to front. Start with the rear quarter panels. The drivers side has a fuel neck so there is no way to physically cover the entire outer body panel, So lay the insulation as far as you can until you reach the fuel filling area. Go ahead and get comfortable inside the car. I folded a towel up and sat in the spare tire opening. use caution when rolling the mat on to body panels, then are thin and can become malformed if the roller is used too hard and unevenly, then again you want this mat to stick good right? Use adequate pressure to get a slight "ripple" on the aluminum backing. Also roll the edges of the mat tight to ensure no moisture can work its way under it.
The passenger side rear quarter has enough room to lay insulation from the taillight to the door jam.
There is a support brace that runs from rear shock mount to rear shock mount, cover both rear fenderwells from there towards the back of the car.
Start in the spare tire opening and work your way up to the fenderwells and support brace from rear shock to rear shock. I also covered the areas under the taillights and rear latch. I double layered the spare tire opening.
Once the rear area of the car is done move to the rear quarter panels between the wheel and the door jams, place the mat as far up and back into the panel that you can.
From this point I covered the front of the fenderwells and the rear seat area. BE SURE NOT TO COVER ANY HOLES OR FLAT SURFACES THAT THE SEATS BOLT TO.
The doors are tricky, you want good coverage but you have many components that cannot be interfered with. I removed the moisture barrier and reused it. There are not many big openings to get inside of the door with, speaker removal will help, but I didn't. Don't use toooo much product or your doors will be REALLY heavy and stress the hinges.
The side interior panels have some LAME foam on them, I removed the lower foam and doubled up on the deadener.
There are still some open air spaces in the fender wells, they need to be filled. A bag full of "poly fill" from a hobby store will work. Stuff the back full of it and tuck it away in the open spaces, I do not recommend grocery bags because of temp rating, they could melt. I robbed some shredded foam rubber from my love sac lol. you can squeeze the air out of the bag and stuff it way up in the fenders.
For the carpet pad, I HAD to remove the stock styrafoam from the carpet. With the foam pad installed (vinyl side up) it boosts the carpet up drastically. The styrofoam was showing itself so I pulled them off. Just slice the foam to let it settle around the seat channels. Then cut holes for seat brackets, wiring harness, gas cap lever. When the mat is in place, put the carpet back in and walk around on it. stomp down in all corners to help the foam and carpet settle. Putting the interior back in will be a little tricky, but patience is key.