Clutch will not disengage
10-31-2016, 02:59 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 3
Clutch will not disengage
I have a 08 tc 5-speed and just the other day my clutch started making this clicking noise and it smells like its burning. I am able to get it into gear while it is on it is just very difficult and it will shift when its off. I dont exactly want to drive it because i dont want anymore issues. I read other forums and saw it could be the master or slave cylinder but if that was the case i would think the fluid would at least be dirty or it would be leaking but it is not. The fork isnt bent so i have come to the conclusion that i might have broken a spring in the clutch and i just wanted to get some advice before i dropped the transmission and bought a new clutch.
12-20-2016, 03:45 PM
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 7
I have yet to change a clutch in mine, so I'm not entirely sure. But you might have a bad throwout bearing that's not doing it's job in separating the clutch and flywheel. But in that case, you might as well change it all.
Last edited by Treyyoung545; 12-20-2016 at 08:00 PM.
01-05-2017, 02:46 PM
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 1
Having just finished my first clutch replacement on my new to me '05 TC, I do not envy you at this moment.
For me the initial issue was a really easy troubleshoot, but was strange timing. The seller had told me the clutch was replaced two years ago, and with the documentation that came with the car it only had 20k miles on it, further investigation clarified that it was the AC clutch that was replaced, meaning that it was the original clutch that died shortly after hitting 165k.
You say "Clicking"? The only clicking I'm familiar with is within the transmission. I'm assuming the smell you got was burnt friction material, and happens when the clutch disk isn't fully disengaged and allowed to spin while pressed against the flywheel or pressure plate. The difficulty with shifting was a hold up with my replacement, and has multiple methods of troubleshooting. I had both bad master and slave but didn't find out until getting the car back together, no visible leaking with both but neither passed bench testing and couldn't maintain enough pressure to allow the slave to move fork. Depending on budget you've got a lot of ways to start.
First get a friend to depress the clutch pedal while you watch the slave to see of its engaging the fork, if it is trying pushing back on the fork into the slave, if the slave doesn't give any resistance, then you have air somehow. Cheap fix is to bleed the hydraulics and watch for air bubbles and how many you are seeing as you go though a few cycles. If there's air and you can't get it out, replace the master, honestly though both are very reasonable and might as well do both, shouldn't be more than $60 for parts and an extra $5 for a large bottle of DOT 3. If that doesn't fix you up it's safe to assume that you need a new clutch, and if you decide to do it yourself make sure you have a buddy, it's a two person DIY job especially if you are not experienced with the process.
Lastly, if you are grinding when shifting don't continue to drive your car with it continuing. That grinding is your transmission saying ouch as your mangling the teeth on the syncromesh and that means you're rebuilding your transmission if you keep at it. That's a bill you'd prefer not to pay, I tried pricing it and I'd almost gamble the cost of buying one from the junkyard.
For me the initial issue was a really easy troubleshoot, but was strange timing. The seller had told me the clutch was replaced two years ago, and with the documentation that came with the car it only had 20k miles on it, further investigation clarified that it was the AC clutch that was replaced, meaning that it was the original clutch that died shortly after hitting 165k.
You say "Clicking"? The only clicking I'm familiar with is within the transmission. I'm assuming the smell you got was burnt friction material, and happens when the clutch disk isn't fully disengaged and allowed to spin while pressed against the flywheel or pressure plate. The difficulty with shifting was a hold up with my replacement, and has multiple methods of troubleshooting. I had both bad master and slave but didn't find out until getting the car back together, no visible leaking with both but neither passed bench testing and couldn't maintain enough pressure to allow the slave to move fork. Depending on budget you've got a lot of ways to start.
First get a friend to depress the clutch pedal while you watch the slave to see of its engaging the fork, if it is trying pushing back on the fork into the slave, if the slave doesn't give any resistance, then you have air somehow. Cheap fix is to bleed the hydraulics and watch for air bubbles and how many you are seeing as you go though a few cycles. If there's air and you can't get it out, replace the master, honestly though both are very reasonable and might as well do both, shouldn't be more than $60 for parts and an extra $5 for a large bottle of DOT 3. If that doesn't fix you up it's safe to assume that you need a new clutch, and if you decide to do it yourself make sure you have a buddy, it's a two person DIY job especially if you are not experienced with the process.
Lastly, if you are grinding when shifting don't continue to drive your car with it continuing. That grinding is your transmission saying ouch as your mangling the teeth on the syncromesh and that means you're rebuilding your transmission if you keep at it. That's a bill you'd prefer not to pay, I tried pricing it and I'd almost gamble the cost of buying one from the junkyard.