bbsciontc

Were those codes after you had reset the previous one? You may have to do that to clear them out, as they may not go away on there own.

The car is going to stumble since it's relearning LTFT from your previous tune. What you'll notice is that as you correct fuel at each cell, you'll first see a change in STFT, and as you watch you'll see that change being transfered into LTFT. I tried this myself on Sunday. I used the o2 offset feature to change my target idle AFR to around 13.0. Immediately, the STFT jumped to +20 and LTFT was still close to 0. Within seconds, the LTFT started to go up and STFT went back down to near zero. This is the ECU "learning" the new target. I then set the o2 offset back to the original '0' value, and watched the opposite happen, until finally everything settled back at zero. It's actually pretty cool seeing this in action and shows the power of the FIC. No other piggyback can do this.

skruff

Yes it was after the fact. Still popped up. I used the map you posted and changed idle values more towards - 65 to zero out trim. I let it idle for 20 minutes so well see if it drives better tomorrow without throwing a cel

bbsciontc

How's the idle? Better than with your previously tuned map?

skruff

Yes, startup and idle are much smoother. Drove to work with the car today without any issues. Well see if the cel stays off now as well

mc1114

Would a pedal position sensor/assembly be faulty without seeing a code or triggering the Check Engine light?

skruff

Keep getting p0102 now :/
Mc- based on the repair manual, I highly doubt the pedal sensor would be faulty without triggering a CEL. If the ECU gets a value that is erratic or out of the accepted voltage range (for anything more than 0.5s), it will trigger a CEL. The repair manual also explains how to check what might be faulty at all parts in the setup. e.g. right at sensor terminal, right at CEL and what your resistances should be (car off) or voltages (car on) with and without the gas pedal being depressed.

bbsciontc

Open up the gauges in the FIC software while the car is running and verify that the Maf in and Maf out voltages are relatively close in value. Rev the engine a bit to make sure this relationship looks consistent.

skruff

What qualifies as close? I'll check it out tomorrow!

bbsciontc

Within 0.1V or so

bbsciontc

Here is the diagnostic procedure.

skruff

Maf in 1.30-1.36
Maf out 1.38-1.42
Taking the car to the tuner now finally with all these notes and maps

bbsciontc

Yea, that voltage looks pretty good. One thing I saw in the service manual is that the expected voltages at the MAF vary by throttle position. It is therefore possible, that you may be getting a MAF value error if your TPS sensor is out of range and the car is expecting to see more voltage for a given throttle position (idle in your case). Just a thought.

Anyways, good luck. Make sure all tuning happens in the Fuel and Ignition maps. Leave the MAF map alone.

skruff

Are you still suggesting that the TPS sensor is going bad? I checked all vac lines going to and from it, and all were solid. Car has now been at the tuner for 5 days and they said they want 3 more... I'll report back once I finally get the car back.

bbsciontc

It was just thought about the tps. I dont really seeanything that stands out as the problem. Get the car back yet?

skruff

I got the car back Monday and have been driving it minimally since. The car is still all messed up and dies when coasting to a stop light in neutral. So far I'd say I have restarted my car while driving about 30 times. The car otherwise ran fine for a few days until yesterday when I was driving on the interstate. It was misfiring like crazy and I had to pull off and reset the ECU in order to drive the rest of the way.

When I left the tuner fuel trims were around -6-16 for short term and -15 for long term. After resetting the ECU they were below 10%, but I haven't driven it much since. I'm unsure of what to do at this point because the tuner never called me to discuss my notes even though I hounded them to do that. They are the only shop in the area that would tune the car and I had to call around for hours to find them. It is strange that they are so bad at tuning with the FIC because the shop has excellent reviews and the tuner said he has tuned a few TC's before. I don't think it makes sense to bring the car back again because I have been there 3 times already and this last time they had the car for 8 days.

I can't keep letting my car troubles get in the way of my daily life at this point. It is giving my anxiety how much work and money I have put into it at this point and still don't have a driveable car. I think I'm going to take the turbo off this weekend and give up.

bbsciontc

That sucks man. If you want to post up the tune, I can take a look at it to see what he did. I can understand not wanting to deal with it anymore. You need to have a usable car.

I assume you already checked with Paul from Dezod if he could recommend someone in the area?

skruff

I'll post the tune later today. I made a thread on here looking for a tuner but any replies led to false leads. I wasn't aware that Paul knew people from all around the states- I'll give him a shout.

bbsciontc

He definitely did know of tuners in a few regions. Not sure about yours, but it's worth a shot. BTW, did the base tune I gave you run poorly as well?

skruff

Oh I apologize, I thought I said something about it. Yes the base tune you gave me worked great. I tweaked it a little bit but that was the only reason I was able to drive to the tuner. I gave the car to the tuner with that map on it and told the tuner to start with that and not his old one. I never got a check engine light, although it wasn't perfect. That map idled so much better than what's on the car now and the car never died when going into neutral.

bbsciontc

Hmmm. Definitely sounds like a tuning thing. I hope you can find a decent tuner out there. The FIC may be a bit uncommon, but it shouldn't be all that difficult if someone takes the time to understand how it works.