P2121 Code and Erratic Acceleration
06-30-2015, 10:55 PM
#21
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Alright thanks man, I'll have to give the tuner a call. I don't have a long or short term fuel trim option in torque. The only thing that gave me a value ever was bank 1 sensor 2 and it popped up to like 90 right after I started the car (graph only goes to 80 but display said ~90):
On a side note, the pedal sensor fault code hasn't gone off since I reset the ECU a few days ago. Perhaps repositioning it a few mm actually did the trick. I have been driving it very sparcly and hesitantly though so I guess well see what happens with time.
On a side note, the pedal sensor fault code hasn't gone off since I reset the ECU a few days ago. Perhaps repositioning it a few mm actually did the trick. I have been driving it very sparcly and hesitantly though so I guess well see what happens with time.
07-01-2015, 05:07 PM
#23
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Yes, I looked for about a half hour yesterday to find the differences between pro and lite and couldn't find this as one of the things. I'll purchase the app and see.
The car is acting up again, but it is very hot out today. Either it is in my head, or the car runs worse (meaning the acceleration is erratic) when it is warmer outside. The worse the car has been was the hottest day so far this summer and I also had to drive ~40 miles. Could temperature play that large of a factor in this case? After taking apart the old pedal sensor and measuring voltages at the ECU, I'm fairly confident it is not the culprit.
edit- I also have 4 pending fault codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P2195
I think you're on the right track bb. Thanks again for all your help.
The car is acting up again, but it is very hot out today. Either it is in my head, or the car runs worse (meaning the acceleration is erratic) when it is warmer outside. The worse the car has been was the hottest day so far this summer and I also had to drive ~40 miles. Could temperature play that large of a factor in this case? After taking apart the old pedal sensor and measuring voltages at the ECU, I'm fairly confident it is not the culprit.
edit- I also have 4 pending fault codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P2195
I think you're on the right track bb. Thanks again for all your help.
07-01-2015, 05:33 PM
#24
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This was all I could pull up on injector latency (for anyone else's reference):
RC Engineering:
Flow CC/min 750
Flow LB/Hr 71
Ohm 12
10v 1.36
11v 1.12
12v 0.92
13v 0.76
14v 0.63
15v 0.50
sauce: Fuel Injector Lag Time
Not really, lol.
I pinpointed a possible problem.
I have PE 800cc injectors, at 14 volts the lag is 1.6 ms
I compared it to others injectors of similar size (800cc), and their lag time is 1ms or less. So basically they open/closer faster than mine.
I got my car to idle, but when I lower the pulse width, it dies if its anything leaner than 12afr.
I wanted to change the injector latency map, so it can be close to what my injectors actually are. But the latency map only goes up to 1.2ms
So that doesn't help.
The only other possibility I see, is to go with low impedance injectors which usually have much lower lag.
I'm probably going to go with RC Engineering 750cc low impedance, denso style injectors. The lag time I think is something like 0.8ms at 14volts. Which is super faster than mine.
So with those I should be able to idle a lot better. So i'm gonna purchase those next paycheck, and then take it to get tuned.
N/A cars turned Turbo cars are a lot of work >.< !!!
I pinpointed a possible problem.
I have PE 800cc injectors, at 14 volts the lag is 1.6 ms
I compared it to others injectors of similar size (800cc), and their lag time is 1ms or less. So basically they open/closer faster than mine.
I got my car to idle, but when I lower the pulse width, it dies if its anything leaner than 12afr.
I wanted to change the injector latency map, so it can be close to what my injectors actually are. But the latency map only goes up to 1.2ms
So that doesn't help.
The only other possibility I see, is to go with low impedance injectors which usually have much lower lag.
I'm probably going to go with RC Engineering 750cc low impedance, denso style injectors. The lag time I think is something like 0.8ms at 14volts. Which is super faster than mine.
So with those I should be able to idle a lot better. So i'm gonna purchase those next paycheck, and then take it to get tuned.
N/A cars turned Turbo cars are a lot of work >.< !!!
RC Engineering:
Flow CC/min 750
Flow LB/Hr 71
Ohm 12
10v 1.36
11v 1.12
12v 0.92
13v 0.76
14v 0.63
15v 0.50
sauce: Fuel Injector Lag Time
07-01-2015, 06:15 PM
#25
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Yes, I looked for about a half hour yesterday to find the differences between pro and lite and couldn't find this as one of the things. I'll purchase the app and see.
The car is acting up again, but it is very hot out today. Either it is in my head, or the car runs worse (meaning the acceleration is erratic) when it is warmer outside. The worse the car has been was the hottest day so far this summer and I also had to drive ~40 miles. Could temperature play that large of a factor in this case? After taking apart the old pedal sensor and measuring voltages at the ECU, I'm fairly confident it is not the culprit.
edit- I also have 4 pending fault codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P2195
I think you're on the right track bb. Thanks again for all your help.
The car is acting up again, but it is very hot out today. Either it is in my head, or the car runs worse (meaning the acceleration is erratic) when it is warmer outside. The worse the car has been was the hottest day so far this summer and I also had to drive ~40 miles. Could temperature play that large of a factor in this case? After taking apart the old pedal sensor and measuring voltages at the ECU, I'm fairly confident it is not the culprit.
edit- I also have 4 pending fault codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P2195
I think you're on the right track bb. Thanks again for all your help.
It looks like the next code thats pending is your o2 sensor stuck lean. Not what I would have expected with excessive fuel, unless it's beginning to foul the sensor.
By chance, has your gas mileage been poor?
07-01-2015, 06:35 PM
#26
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This was all I could pull up on injector latency (for anyone else's reference):
RC Engineering:
Flow CC/min 750
Flow LB/Hr 71
Ohm 12
10v 1.36
11v 1.12
12v 0.92
13v 0.76
14v 0.63
15v 0.50
sauce: Fuel Injector Lag Time
RC Engineering:
Flow CC/min 750
Flow LB/Hr 71
Ohm 12
10v 1.36
11v 1.12
12v 0.92
13v 0.76
14v 0.63
15v 0.50
sauce: Fuel Injector Lag Time
Although I would recommend your tuner do this, you can try this yourself. Back up your current map and save it on your computer. Then you can try to play around with the idle range of the map and latency and see if you can get a stable idle. If you have 750cc injectors, I believe your idle range should be ~-57% to flow similar to 320cc injectors. If you do this, you may need to alter the latency however in order to compensate for the injector opening time. If none of this works, just reload your old map. If it does work, I wouldn't exactly leave it like that because there will be some harsh transitions in your fuel map, but it'll give you something to discuss with your tuner.
I'd recommend you monitor the fuel trims first for evidence that this is indeed your issue. Oh, and check for vacuum leaks too! That'd be embarrassing
!
Last edited by bbsciontc; 07-01-2015 at 07:15 PM.
07-01-2015, 08:13 PM
#27
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Ok. Check to see what it's currently set at. I believe the AEM default is 486us (0.486ms). I wouldn't go ahead and change this yet, as increasing this value will actually cause your injectors to spray longer since the FIC is going to assume that it needs to increase the pulse width more to compensate for the longer lag. What I'm thinking is that the fuel map should first be trimmed so off boost flow is like stock, then the latency setting in the FIC should be raised to get the car to idle properly.
Although I would recommend your tuner do this, you can try this yourself. Back up your current map and save it on your computer. Then you can try to play around with the idle range of the map and latency and see if you can get a stable idle. If you have 750cc injectors, I believe your idle range should be ~-57% to flow similar to 320cc injectors. If you do this, you may need to alter the latency however in order to compensate for the injector opening time. If none of this works, just reload your old map. If it does work, I wouldn't exactly leave it like that because there will be some harsh transitions in your fuel map, but it'll give you something to discuss with your tuner.
I'd recommend you monitor the fuel trims first for evidence that this is indeed your issue. Oh, and check for vacuum leaks too! That'd be embarrassing !
Although I would recommend your tuner do this, you can try this yourself. Back up your current map and save it on your computer. Then you can try to play around with the idle range of the map and latency and see if you can get a stable idle. If you have 750cc injectors, I believe your idle range should be ~-57% to flow similar to 320cc injectors. If you do this, you may need to alter the latency however in order to compensate for the injector opening time. If none of this works, just reload your old map. If it does work, I wouldn't exactly leave it like that because there will be some harsh transitions in your fuel map, but it'll give you something to discuss with your tuner.
I'd recommend you monitor the fuel trims first for evidence that this is indeed your issue. Oh, and check for vacuum leaks too! That'd be embarrassing
!I took off work tomorrow so I actually have a chance to take the car back to the tuner an hour away. I'm waiting to hear back if they can fit me in or not.
07-02-2015, 12:18 PM
#29
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Ok, before going to the tuner, please read this thread by Crush from several years back (mainly just the first post).
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sci...-setup-153354/
He talks about how the FIC works (you can ignore the wiring stuff he did; that's just for added features).
The main point is that for our car, O2 offset does not work well in percentage mode, hence we should be using it in voltage mode (ours is a factory wideband sensor, that's why). At then end of his post, he has a sample o2 voltage map that seems good from what I can tell. The important thing is the chart of o2 offset voltage vs desired closed loop afr at the beginning of the post. In the idle range, you want your target afr to be around 14.7. I suggest sharing this with your tuner.
Once you have a good understanding of this post, you should be in better shape with regards to your discussion with the tuner.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sci...-setup-153354/
He talks about how the FIC works (you can ignore the wiring stuff he did; that's just for added features).
The main point is that for our car, O2 offset does not work well in percentage mode, hence we should be using it in voltage mode (ours is a factory wideband sensor, that's why). At then end of his post, he has a sample o2 voltage map that seems good from what I can tell. The important thing is the chart of o2 offset voltage vs desired closed loop afr at the beginning of the post. In the idle range, you want your target afr to be around 14.7. I suggest sharing this with your tuner.
Once you have a good understanding of this post, you should be in better shape with regards to your discussion with the tuner.
07-02-2015, 02:17 PM
#30
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Thanks BB, but I already took notes from that thread! Haha. And of course all of your wonderful comments. Hopefully I can have a valid discussion with the tuner now.
I will report back later today with the outcome.
I will report back later today with the outcome.
07-03-2015, 01:05 AM
#32
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Got all the way out to the tuner only to be told that they thought this was a 5 minute fix with no dyno :/
I fortunately got to speak with the tuner who was very understanding, however. I shared my notes with him and he stated that he has tuned a few TC's and everything was fine- never heard back after that. He also stated that the base maps he created for their cars didn't come close on mine (probably because the descenant kit is much different than the handful of others).
He also stated that he didn't touch the O2 map and never has. I'm unsure how there could be values if he didn't. I appologize but I have not the slightest clue what the typical tuning procedure process entails, nor how values are generated besides manually typing them in each cell- but the map on my tune closely match crush's. (mine is the lower/ less jpg'ey)
He suggested that we try to add two more high flow injectors in a custom weldment and revert back to stock injectors- that way the car runs stock when under-boost or idle, or adds the extra fuel when needed. His rationale was that he then has full control over the fuel management, at all RPMs. I understood his frustration as the TC ECU is by no means friendly with a piggyback system, but that I think we should try to tune on the dyno once more. I have never seen this sort of setup before and I need to research it some.
I suggested that we first re-tune: 02 map, based on crush's values (with voltage set and not percentage), then fuel map, then set injector latency and tweak both maps once more. He agreed, and my car will be back at the tuner the 20-24th. I told him I would leave in the car my concluded notes from this thread as well as crush's- along with crush's base map and any others that I can find, that seem relevant (as reference).
As a side note:
I have ordered new brake pads and rotors to see if my brake light issue gets resolved. I don't believe they are the culprit since I replaced them a year ago and they look fine- although I no longer feel as though this issue is related to the others. I also have not gotten the CEL for P2121 since I repositioned the accelerator sensor, although I still don't feel the car drives the same way it did after the tune a few weeks before it came on. The car doesn't sputter and lag like it did, but I also don't have to clear fault codes or unplug the battery every other day, just to be able to drive it to work. Hopefully these two issues were mutually exclusive and me poking around at the ECU harness fixed things.
I fortunately got to speak with the tuner who was very understanding, however. I shared my notes with him and he stated that he has tuned a few TC's and everything was fine- never heard back after that. He also stated that the base maps he created for their cars didn't come close on mine (probably because the descenant kit is much different than the handful of others).
He also stated that he didn't touch the O2 map and never has. I'm unsure how there could be values if he didn't. I appologize but I have not the slightest clue what the typical tuning procedure process entails, nor how values are generated besides manually typing them in each cell- but the map on my tune closely match crush's. (mine is the lower/ less jpg'ey)
He suggested that we try to add two more high flow injectors in a custom weldment and revert back to stock injectors- that way the car runs stock when under-boost or idle, or adds the extra fuel when needed. His rationale was that he then has full control over the fuel management, at all RPMs. I understood his frustration as the TC ECU is by no means friendly with a piggyback system, but that I think we should try to tune on the dyno once more. I have never seen this sort of setup before and I need to research it some.
I suggested that we first re-tune: 02 map, based on crush's values (with voltage set and not percentage), then fuel map, then set injector latency and tweak both maps once more. He agreed, and my car will be back at the tuner the 20-24th. I told him I would leave in the car my concluded notes from this thread as well as crush's- along with crush's base map and any others that I can find, that seem relevant (as reference).
As a side note:
I have ordered new brake pads and rotors to see if my brake light issue gets resolved. I don't believe they are the culprit since I replaced them a year ago and they look fine- although I no longer feel as though this issue is related to the others. I also have not gotten the CEL for P2121 since I repositioned the accelerator sensor, although I still don't feel the car drives the same way it did after the tune a few weeks before it came on. The car doesn't sputter and lag like it did, but I also don't have to clear fault codes or unplug the battery every other day, just to be able to drive it to work. Hopefully these two issues were mutually exclusive and me poking around at the ECU harness fixed things.
07-03-2015, 11:56 AM
#33
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Your O2 voltage map above looks pretty good, with the exception of the range of 14.2-17.8. It begins to tip lean at 14.2, then drastically goes rich right after. That does not seem right to me, and I can see the car behave erratically in that range as a result. All the transitions should be smooth, like Crush's. While I didn't use any of Crush's maps myself, I created my own O2 map based on "gut feel" and it came out quite similar to his.
Try smoothing this out and report back if there is any improvement.
Try smoothing this out and report back if there is any improvement.
Last edited by bbsciontc; 07-09-2015 at 02:48 PM.
07-08-2015, 02:00 AM
#36
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Well, I imagine the LTFT and STFT may not even register when cold, since the ecu is not adjusting your fuel ratios. When warm, that's when you should see the fuel trims in realtime. As a goal, the total trim should be less than +/-10% (adding both the STFT and LTFT). If you are seeing more than that, then the ECU is trying really hard to correct for excessive fuel.
Your tuner should have adjusted this for you by modifying your fuel map until the fuel trims (long term and short term) are as close to zero as possible in the closed loop range. I wouldn't be surprised if this wasn't done, as this is a quirk of using a piggyback ECU and is basically an extra step.
The other thing that will also need to be looked at is the "injector response time" under "setup" in the fic software. I don't know what this needs to be for you injectors, so you may need to do some trial and error. If you do a search on this forum, you may get lucky and find a a recommended setting for these injectors. Generally, larger injectors need a longer response time (the time needed for the injectors to fully open).
Your tuner should have adjusted this for you by modifying your fuel map until the fuel trims (long term and short term) are as close to zero as possible in the closed loop range. I wouldn't be surprised if this wasn't done, as this is a quirk of using a piggyback ECU and is basically an extra step.
The other thing that will also need to be looked at is the "injector response time" under "setup" in the fic software. I don't know what this needs to be for you injectors, so you may need to do some trial and error. If you do a search on this forum, you may get lucky and find a a recommended setting for these injectors. Generally, larger injectors need a longer response time (the time needed for the injectors to fully open).
Should the injector lag be changed only in the setup box after I have the fuel map worked out? Or should I highlight cells and change the injector size (new and old) there?
Could you also please elaborate on the desired closed loop AFR table crush gave? I thought I understood it, but looking at my fuel map, the values are nowhere near that, nor the ones crush posted. What exactly is meant by that?
07-08-2015, 12:38 PM
#37
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I'm glad the O2 map is working better. The way it was before seemed like it would give you a nasty stumble in that region.
I have to admit that I am surprised that running less fuel would make your car run worse. Not what I would have expected. What you could try is zeroing the 3.16 portion of your o2 map temporarily so that the stock ecu is in full control fuel at idle (0 doesn't mean 0 volts, it just tells the FIC to leave the o2 signal alone. Make sure it's exactly 0, not 0.1 etc.). Next,start the car and let it fully warm up, then check the fuel trims. That'll tell you the current fueling situation at idle.
I'm not positive on this, but the 3.16 that's currently in that range may be "hiding" the true AFR from the ECU, making you unable to monitor the true AFR through the OBD2 port. Unfortunately it's tough to troubleshoot without sitting in the car. Post up your findings, and feel free to set it back of things aren't running that well.
Regarding your question about injector lag, my approach would have been to adjust the fuel trims first, then adjust the injector response time until I got a steady idle. However, for some reason you are unable to get there. Are you positive that your setup has no leaks? It's almost as if you are running lean at idle but your injectors are compensating by overflowing stock by 2X. That suggests that air is getting into the system after the MAF sensor, but I'm totally just speculating here.
Definitely make sure there are no leaks, or else trying to correct this by tuning will be futile.
I have to admit that I am surprised that running less fuel would make your car run worse. Not what I would have expected. What you could try is zeroing the 3.16 portion of your o2 map temporarily so that the stock ecu is in full control fuel at idle (0 doesn't mean 0 volts, it just tells the FIC to leave the o2 signal alone. Make sure it's exactly 0, not 0.1 etc.). Next,start the car and let it fully warm up, then check the fuel trims. That'll tell you the current fueling situation at idle.
I'm not positive on this, but the 3.16 that's currently in that range may be "hiding" the true AFR from the ECU, making you unable to monitor the true AFR through the OBD2 port. Unfortunately it's tough to troubleshoot without sitting in the car. Post up your findings, and feel free to set it back of things aren't running that well.
Regarding your question about injector lag, my approach would have been to adjust the fuel trims first, then adjust the injector response time until I got a steady idle. However, for some reason you are unable to get there. Are you positive that your setup has no leaks? It's almost as if you are running lean at idle but your injectors are compensating by overflowing stock by 2X. That suggests that air is getting into the system after the MAF sensor, but I'm totally just speculating here.
Definitely make sure there are no leaks, or else trying to correct this by tuning will be futile.
07-08-2015, 05:27 PM
#38
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I'll give what you said a shot either today or tomorrow. Thank you.
Is the injector lag a one-shot setting in the setup window? What is the right click on cell to change injector size do?
Lastly, do modifications need to be made quickly after the ECU is reset, or is it better to wait until after I have drove for a few miles? Yesterday when I was tweaking numbers it was in the 10-30min gap after I had the battery unplugged to reset the ECU. I allowed the car to idle for 10 minutes then drove it a few miles to heat the car up.
Is the injector lag a one-shot setting in the setup window? What is the right click on cell to change injector size do?
Lastly, do modifications need to be made quickly after the ECU is reset, or is it better to wait until after I have drove for a few miles? Yesterday when I was tweaking numbers it was in the 10-30min gap after I had the battery unplugged to reset the ECU. I allowed the car to idle for 10 minutes then drove it a few miles to heat the car up.
07-08-2015, 06:46 PM
#39
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The injector response time is a one time thing. It's tough to find concrete information about it but it is a little different that one would think. True, it's the time needed for the injector to open, but the way its used in the FIC (apparently) is that it looks at the total pulse length coming from ECU, subtracts out the IRT you entered, and then only applies the correction to the remaining pulse width.
Someone on this forum said the base tune from AEM with stock injectors had entered 769.5us, so the ECU will subtract this amount from the total pulse width and apply any corrections to the remaining pulse width. Now you can imagine that if your aftermarket injectors take longer to open, it gets complicated becuase you're not exactly trying to enter the latency of the injectors, but a combination of that and the expected latency of the oem ecu with stock injectors.
The more I think about it, it hurts my head. That's why I feel the best solution is to try the oem latency, calculate the mathematical fuel trim to flow like stock outside of boost, and adjust the IRT up and down until the idle is stable and fuel trims (from your scan tool) are as close to zero as possible. I feel this should be done with the O2 offset set to 0 in the idle region so that you can see what the the ECU is targeting without O2 sensor skewing from the FIC.
The change injector size thing is just that. It provide the user with a quick tool to adjust fuel trims when going to larger injectors. For instance, if you are using 750cc injectors, you enter 750 as the new injector and enter 330 (or whatever the oem injector is) as the old, and the FIC will automatically attempt to adjust the fuel map so it flows like a 330. Since you're tuned already, you shouldn't use that. It's only meant for when injectors have been changed to something different than what you are tuned for, or if you are starting from scratch with a new tune.
Finally, I think the adjustments should be made shortly after the ECU is reset. This doesn't necessarily have to be right after or even in the same driving cycle, but the longer you drive, the ECU will start to migrate the STFT to LTFT. It'll be easier to adjust the fuel map while all the corrections are being made by STFT and the LTFT is close to zero. You do want to be fully warmed up however, so what you are doing sounds perfect.
Someone on this forum said the base tune from AEM with stock injectors had entered 769.5us, so the ECU will subtract this amount from the total pulse width and apply any corrections to the remaining pulse width. Now you can imagine that if your aftermarket injectors take longer to open, it gets complicated becuase you're not exactly trying to enter the latency of the injectors, but a combination of that and the expected latency of the oem ecu with stock injectors.
The more I think about it, it hurts my head. That's why I feel the best solution is to try the oem latency, calculate the mathematical fuel trim to flow like stock outside of boost, and adjust the IRT up and down until the idle is stable and fuel trims (from your scan tool) are as close to zero as possible. I feel this should be done with the O2 offset set to 0 in the idle region so that you can see what the the ECU is targeting without O2 sensor skewing from the FIC.
The change injector size thing is just that. It provide the user with a quick tool to adjust fuel trims when going to larger injectors. For instance, if you are using 750cc injectors, you enter 750 as the new injector and enter 330 (or whatever the oem injector is) as the old, and the FIC will automatically attempt to adjust the fuel map so it flows like a 330. Since you're tuned already, you shouldn't use that. It's only meant for when injectors have been changed to something different than what you are tuned for, or if you are starting from scratch with a new tune.
Finally, I think the adjustments should be made shortly after the ECU is reset. This doesn't necessarily have to be right after or even in the same driving cycle, but the longer you drive, the ECU will start to migrate the STFT to LTFT. It'll be easier to adjust the fuel map while all the corrections are being made by STFT and the LTFT is close to zero. You do want to be fully warmed up however, so what you are doing sounds perfect.
Last edited by bbsciontc; 07-09-2015 at 02:54 PM.
07-09-2015, 06:00 PM
#40
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Thanks man. I still don't comprehend what crush's AFR table is for though. I appologize for making you beat this dead horse, but could you explain where I need to use this in my process?
1. Unplug battery and ECM fuse- let stand for 10 minutes
2. Change 02 map to all zero's below boost (all 3.16 values in my table)
3. Flash FIC
4. Plug in battery and ECM fuse, start car and let idle for ~10 min
5. Monitor short term and long term fuel trims, as well as AFR through obd2
6. Adjust fuel map below boost to bring fuel trims near zero- nominally between -10 and +10 (on the y-axis, 13.1 should have values near 0; increasing in negative value towards 3, with values near -57?)
^Should I rev the car here to check for trims at higher rpms? How do I verify trims near boost if the car is at a stand still? What am I monitoring AFR for?
7. After fuel map is adjusted correctly and the values below boost are negative (unlike my current map)- turn off the car and plug the battery and ECM fuse- let stand for 10 minutes
8. Change 02 map to what it was before
9. Flash FIC
10. Plug in battery and ECM fuse, start car and let idle for ~10 min
11. Monitor short term and long term fuel trims, as well as AFR through obd2
12. In setup, change injector lag (increase value from default 486) until idle is smooth
^Does this update in real-time like the maps, or do I need to save and flash?
Thanks again for all of your help- I owe you more than a few beers.
Another side note- I removed the ECU connector from my "boomslang harness" that contains the accelerator pedal sensor, and connected it directly into the ECU. The only connection going to the FIC from this connector is 12v power, so I simply directly spliced that onto the stock connector. If I get a p2121 or p2123 code again, I know the issue can be completely fixed by replacing the ECU and rewiring the wires going from the sensor to the ECU. It would be a hassle, but those are the only two places that issue could reside.
1. Unplug battery and ECM fuse- let stand for 10 minutes
2. Change 02 map to all zero's below boost (all 3.16 values in my table)
3. Flash FIC
4. Plug in battery and ECM fuse, start car and let idle for ~10 min
5. Monitor short term and long term fuel trims, as well as AFR through obd2
6. Adjust fuel map below boost to bring fuel trims near zero- nominally between -10 and +10 (on the y-axis, 13.1 should have values near 0; increasing in negative value towards 3, with values near -57?)
^Should I rev the car here to check for trims at higher rpms? How do I verify trims near boost if the car is at a stand still? What am I monitoring AFR for?
7. After fuel map is adjusted correctly and the values below boost are negative (unlike my current map)- turn off the car and plug the battery and ECM fuse- let stand for 10 minutes
8. Change 02 map to what it was before
9. Flash FIC
10. Plug in battery and ECM fuse, start car and let idle for ~10 min
11. Monitor short term and long term fuel trims, as well as AFR through obd2
12. In setup, change injector lag (increase value from default 486) until idle is smooth
^Does this update in real-time like the maps, or do I need to save and flash?
Thanks again for all of your help- I owe you more than a few beers.
Another side note- I removed the ECU connector from my "boomslang harness" that contains the accelerator pedal sensor, and connected it directly into the ECU. The only connection going to the FIC from this connector is 12v power, so I simply directly spliced that onto the stock connector. If I get a p2121 or p2123 code again, I know the issue can be completely fixed by replacing the ECU and rewiring the wires going from the sensor to the ECU. It would be a hassle, but those are the only two places that issue could reside.