yellowxhoodie

iTrader: (16)

i know.
i stole this idea from Zilvia.
only its way better over there.

people actually search and use google first.
im gonna leave it for another week or two, if it still sucks, itll be gone.

UNDERCOVER

iTrader: (2)

does anyone know which whole on the rear sway bar is the stiffest im in the middle right now (hotchkis)

AcidDrop

iTrader: (4)

^the inner hole but it will be overkill for daily driving so your better off leaving it as it is.

moderneuphoric

what are the effects of having negative camber performance wise? (i have -.5 front & -2.5 rear)

yellowxhoodie

iTrader: (16)

smaller contact patch with the road.

Murphys_Law

iTrader: (3)

+ shorter life of tires=more prone to use cheaper tires=less performance of tires

Dizzzle

how much hp can the auto tranny hold?

yellowxhoodie

iTrader: (16)

its been covered a million times.
search.

UNDERCOVER

iTrader: (2)

yea i noticed a big diff right away. plus imma about to lower on s-tech and put the ingalls K brace in. should i get aftermarket endlinks? since the stock ones seem week.

Dizzzle

I already searched

yellowxhoodie

iTrader: (16)

search better.
im not going to help you.

i didnt make this thread so that people dont have to search.

i also didnt make it for people incapable of using the search feature and google correctly.

yellowxhoodie

iTrader: (16)

you know what, you dont even have to search to find it.
i just did in less than a minute.

HINT.

Scion tC Forced Induction -> Important FI Threads -> Turbocharging you A/T

ack154

iTrader: (7)

Negative camber is mostly better for cornering grip and stability... also negative camber up front will help with turn-in.

Sort of true... only in a straight line. When you're going around a corner, the negative camber means the outside tires are now rolling over onto the full surface of the tire and therefore provide more traction - instead of rolling over onto the shoulder/sidewall of the tire and losing contact on the inside of the tire.

Not really true. Negative camber by itself will not really affect the life of the tires (unless you're running EXTREME negative camber and never touch the outside of the tire - which is just dumb and you should expect to go through tires fast). Where most people have a huge problem is negative camber combined with an incorrect Toe setting. This will chew a tire up pretty quick depending on the severity.

I've been running -2° up front for the last two years and have perfect wear on my tires. Rear has probably been at around -1.5° for much much longer and I've never had a problem after getting it properly aligned.

Dizzzle

Yeah, I found that... But I read that its 240-250 whp but is there a way to beefing up the tranny? Except for the a/t cooler?

ack154

iTrader: (7)

So you asked a question that you already knew the answer of and then changed it to a different question?

RS2_1823

^^^ Smh lol .. yes I think he did

AcidDrop

iTrader: (4)

no you don't have to buy new enlinks as the stock ones aren't weak at all, you can slightly adjust the camber them whenever you go get an alignment but don't try adjusting it yourself at home.

Skittle

As long as you take it to the Pros and let them align and dial everything in properly, it will ride great. Just be sure to understand how much camber you actually need before you tell them what you want.

Skittle

Ok Yeah I have searched this Forum and Google and have been looking for a definite answer on how to fix the ticking sound coing fro the glove box area from the A/C system. I have seen multiple people complaining about the same thing, but nobody has yet to say a definite answer to a fix. No there is no warranty on the car anymore. I even took it back to the dealer I bought it from and they took apart the motor compartment for the A/C under the glove box area and pulled out a bunch of leaves, but its back. I drove away from the dealer when they said they "fixed" it, but guess what, its still has a faint ticking. When I press the button to make the air blow faster and colder, the ticking gets faster. When it is at the lowest setting for air flow, it ticks loud, and kind of sounds like a ball bearing that is stripping, or not revolving completely. Anybody know what the fix is for this? A/C works perfectly and blows cold, but that ticking is effin annoying. Ive searched for a definite answer, but nobody posted any fixes for it.

yellowxhoodie

iTrader: (16)

you sure it coming from there?

could be your belt or A/C compressor since your saying it speeds up when you turn the A/C up.

i havent had A/C in my car for a while but if i remember correctly mine did the same thing. And if you say youve heard alot of others have the same "problem", it may just be a toyota "thing". Kind of like how toyotas are notorious for loud valvetrains