So I Got a TC. Long Plan to Racecar.
#1
So I Got a TC. Long Plan to Racecar.
I just bought a TC, very clean. I want to make it fast (Even though I know its not RWD or anything like that. )
My goals are 300 whp, Tight Suspension, and making it look good, and keeping it semi reliable? it is my daily after all lol.
So, since I dont make tons and tons of money. First things first. Its used, I need this car to last long enough to make it to race time! What do you guys think of this maintenance list? for a car nearing its 140k mile mark?
anything else I should do? I plan on doing my suspension after all the maintenance is finished. I dont know how the car was driven previously so I want to cover all my basis before getting started.
My goals are 300 whp, Tight Suspension, and making it look good, and keeping it semi reliable? it is my daily after all lol.
So, since I dont make tons and tons of money. First things first. Its used, I need this car to last long enough to make it to race time! What do you guys think of this maintenance list? for a car nearing its 140k mile mark?
- Oil Change
- -Replace PCV Valve during Oil Change (I hear these go out?)
- Coolant Flush
- Manual Tranny Fluid Flush?
- Radiator Fluid Flush
- Power Steering Fluid Flush
- ??Fuel Injection Cleaner?? - I hear this is good or bad?
- Replace Spark Plugs
- Check Belts, Hoses, Intake Air Filter, Cabin Air Filter
- and lastly run a compression test
anything else I should do? I plan on doing my suspension after all the maintenance is finished. I dont know how the car was driven previously so I want to cover all my basis before getting started.
#3
And I'd be willing to spend 9-11k to get it there (some of that would be towards cosmetics)
I think this is a good car blend of speed and zippyness, aftermarket support, looks, reliability, uniqueness ish (more so than Hondas and Mustangs lol), gas mileage, and low upfront cost for the car ! I can't think of many with all those qualities I can use as a daily and fast (Imo 300whp is plenty fast)
#4
I'm sure it's capable of getting to 300whp and running 13's in the quarter mile though.
And I'd be willing to spend 9-11k to get it there (some of that would be towards cosmetics)
I think this is a good car blend of speed and zippyness, aftermarket support, looks, reliability, uniqueness ish (more so than Hondas and Mustangs lol), gas mileage, and low upfront cost for the car ! I can't think of many with all those qualities I can use as a daily and fast (Imo 300whp is plenty fast)
And I'd be willing to spend 9-11k to get it there (some of that would be towards cosmetics)
I think this is a good car blend of speed and zippyness, aftermarket support, looks, reliability, uniqueness ish (more so than Hondas and Mustangs lol), gas mileage, and low upfront cost for the car ! I can't think of many with all those qualities I can use as a daily and fast (Imo 300whp is plenty fast)
#10
While the 5.0 mustang is no doubt a faster car, it lacks gas mileage, and has pretty pricey insurance. And tons of those are around at car meets lol. I can't see driving that every day. Maybe if a 2nd car was an option that's what I'd do. Prius + Mustang combo! But the scion stock internals should withstand 300hp if my readings are correct. I imagine $4k on a turbo + $1k on suspension set ups should get me there?
#11
Yea, don't get a mustang if you plan to go to car meets
300whp is pushing it on stock internals. People have done it, yes, but I wouldn't count on reliability. If you have access to a second car/beater, go for it. Also, 300whp is a lot on these cars with an open differential and street tires. Hell, I can barely hook up in second gear, and I'm only pushing ~260whp with taller gears and a Quaife LSD. These cars are not high horsepower friendly
300whp is pushing it on stock internals. People have done it, yes, but I wouldn't count on reliability. If you have access to a second car/beater, go for it. Also, 300whp is a lot on these cars with an open differential and street tires. Hell, I can barely hook up in second gear, and I'm only pushing ~260whp with taller gears and a Quaife LSD. These cars are not high horsepower friendly
#12
Yea, don't get a mustang if you plan to go to car meets
300whp is pushing it on stock internals. People have done it, yes, but I wouldn't count on reliability. If you have access to a second car/beater, go for it. Also, 300whp is a lot on these cars with an open differential and street tires. Hell, I can barely hook up in second gear, and I'm only pushing ~260whp with taller gears and a Quaife LSD. These cars are not high horsepower friendly
300whp is pushing it on stock internals. People have done it, yes, but I wouldn't count on reliability. If you have access to a second car/beater, go for it. Also, 300whp is a lot on these cars with an open differential and street tires. Hell, I can barely hook up in second gear, and I'm only pushing ~260whp with taller gears and a Quaife LSD. These cars are not high horsepower friendly
Also the differential thing I'll have to do some research on that I don't know much about it. But I believe civics and golfs have open differential too and those suckers get built pretty fast! I do see the disadvantage though.
#13
Thank you for the quality reply! I guess for reliability I'd either have to stop at 250whp ish, or build up my engine to handle a bit more so I can obtain 300whp without blowing it up eventually. so I'm not pushing it to its limits.
Also the differential thing I'll have to do some research on that I don't know much about it. But I believe civics and golfs have open differential too and those suckers get built pretty fast! I do see the disadvantage though.
Also the differential thing I'll have to do some research on that I don't know much about it. But I believe civics and golfs have open differential too and those suckers get built pretty fast! I do see the disadvantage though.
#14
#15
Regarding your tune up plan, its good, but don't flush the manual trans. Just drain and fill till all the old fluids out.
Also you might want to add brakes to that list.
pads, rotors, fluid etc.
how are the tires?
140K is high milage to start hot rodding it.
If I were you. I'd buy another motor and trans and build it outside the car. pistons valvetrain, good turbo, good clutch,LSD and a flywheel. then drop it in when your ready.
then you won't have to much down time if its your daily.
One thing I've learned in my youth is don't make your daily driver your race car. At least have a beater so you can still get to work and ____.
Also you might want to add brakes to that list.
pads, rotors, fluid etc.
how are the tires?
140K is high milage to start hot rodding it.
If I were you. I'd buy another motor and trans and build it outside the car. pistons valvetrain, good turbo, good clutch,LSD and a flywheel. then drop it in when your ready.
then you won't have to much down time if its your daily.
One thing I've learned in my youth is don't make your daily driver your race car. At least have a beater so you can still get to work and ____.
#16
Regarding your tune up plan, its good, but don't flush the manual trans. Just drain and fill till all the old fluids out.
Also you might want to add brakes to that list.
pads, rotors, fluid etc.
how are the tires?
140K is high milage to start hot rodding it.
If I were you. I'd buy another motor and trans and build it outside the car. pistons valvetrain, good turbo, good clutch,LSD and a flywheel. then drop it in when your ready.
then you won't have to much down time if its your daily.
One thing I've learned in my youth is don't make your daily driver your race car. At least have a beater so you can still get to work and ____.
Also you might want to add brakes to that list.
pads, rotors, fluid etc.
how are the tires?
140K is high milage to start hot rodding it.
If I were you. I'd buy another motor and trans and build it outside the car. pistons valvetrain, good turbo, good clutch,LSD and a flywheel. then drop it in when your ready.
then you won't have to much down time if its your daily.
One thing I've learned in my youth is don't make your daily driver your race car. At least have a beater so you can still get to work and ____.
The reasoning to working with the high mileage car is bc it was cheap lol, but since I am new to all the tuning, and racing, chances are this car WILL break. just statistically speaking lol. I figure this car is more likely to blow up or crash than outlive its motor. which is (I dont want that to happen) but I have planned for it lol.
And a beater... ive been thinking about that. still have to price out the insurance cost of 2 cars, and finding the space to store two cars...
#17
Something I am looking at upgrading first (before my suspension) is getting some wheels and tires. Wheels, im thinking (to help with all the tire slippage) 18" rims and 9" width? rather than the stock 17" x 7"? What do you guys think?
Also. would it be too much to go for two sets of wheels? one with cheaper daily tires. the other with performance tires? or is just some mid level performance tires good enough? (I dont plan on going to the track THAT often maybe once every 2 or 3 months?) -- what do you guys do?
Also. would it be too much to go for two sets of wheels? one with cheaper daily tires. the other with performance tires? or is just some mid level performance tires good enough? (I dont plan on going to the track THAT often maybe once every 2 or 3 months?) -- what do you guys do?
#18
If your main objective is to go fast, I'd stay clear of 18's.
They are heavy and don't offer performance advantages.
You say you want to build a racecar, but what kind of racing are you looking at?
Drag, Track, Autocross, Ralley, Street? You need to have a clear plan and stick to it.
For the best performance, buy the lightest wheel you can afford.
Also depending on what kind of racing, there are classes that limit your tire and wheel selections. such as in autocross. For example a class this car would be sort of competitive in would be STF. They limit the wheel width to 7.5" and the tire to 225. so it's a good idea to plan ahead.
16"-17" would offer a lower cost and less weight compared to a 18" anchor. the rotating mass of an 18 would pretty much negate any gains if you were running NA with mild bolt-ons and usually make the car slower.
Plus a 16-17" tire is a lot cheaper than an 18".
Just some food for thought.
They are heavy and don't offer performance advantages.
You say you want to build a racecar, but what kind of racing are you looking at?
Drag, Track, Autocross, Ralley, Street? You need to have a clear plan and stick to it.
For the best performance, buy the lightest wheel you can afford.
Also depending on what kind of racing, there are classes that limit your tire and wheel selections. such as in autocross. For example a class this car would be sort of competitive in would be STF. They limit the wheel width to 7.5" and the tire to 225. so it's a good idea to plan ahead.
16"-17" would offer a lower cost and less weight compared to a 18" anchor. the rotating mass of an 18 would pretty much negate any gains if you were running NA with mild bolt-ons and usually make the car slower.
Plus a 16-17" tire is a lot cheaper than an 18".
Just some food for thought.
#19
If your main objective is to go fast, I'd stay clear of 18's.
They are heavy and don't offer performance advantages.
You say you want to build a racecar, but what kind of racing are you looking at?
Drag, Track, Autocross, Ralley, Street? You need to have a clear plan and stick to it.
For the best performance, buy the lightest wheel you can afford.
Also depending on what kind of racing, there are classes that limit your tire and wheel selections. such as in autocross. For example a class this car would be sort of competitive in would be STF. They limit the wheel width to 7.5" and the tire to 225. so it's a good idea to plan ahead.
16"-17" would offer a lower cost and less weight compared to a 18" anchor. the rotating mass of an 18 would pretty much negate any gains if you were running NA with mild bolt-ons and usually make the car slower.
Plus a 16-17" tire is a lot cheaper than an 18".
Just some food for thought.
They are heavy and don't offer performance advantages.
You say you want to build a racecar, but what kind of racing are you looking at?
Drag, Track, Autocross, Ralley, Street? You need to have a clear plan and stick to it.
For the best performance, buy the lightest wheel you can afford.
Also depending on what kind of racing, there are classes that limit your tire and wheel selections. such as in autocross. For example a class this car would be sort of competitive in would be STF. They limit the wheel width to 7.5" and the tire to 225. so it's a good idea to plan ahead.
16"-17" would offer a lower cost and less weight compared to a 18" anchor. the rotating mass of an 18 would pretty much negate any gains if you were running NA with mild bolt-ons and usually make the car slower.
Plus a 16-17" tire is a lot cheaper than an 18".
Just some food for thought.
Thank you for the info!
#20
Something I am looking at upgrading first (before my suspension) is getting some wheels and tires. Wheels, im thinking (to help with all the tire slippage) 18" rims and 9" width? rather than the stock 17" x 7"? What do you guys think?
Also. would it be too much to go for two sets of wheels? one with cheaper daily tires. the other with performance tires? or is just some mid level performance tires good enough? (I dont plan on going to the track THAT often maybe once every 2 or 3 months?) -- what do you guys do?
Also. would it be too much to go for two sets of wheels? one with cheaper daily tires. the other with performance tires? or is just some mid level performance tires good enough? (I dont plan on going to the track THAT often maybe once every 2 or 3 months?) -- what do you guys do?