cjspitfire16

I recently did complete overhaul of short block. Now that everything is back together it starts and stops after 3 seconds. Someone told me my key was imobilizing it. I just can't see that as the issue as it unlocks the car and starts it. It just does after 3 seconds. It seems like it's not getting fuelnor proper fuel air ratio. Nearly everything on this car has been replaced. I found the knock sensor in wrong place but that shouldn't keep it from running should it? The fuses replaced as well as temp control sensor and 02 sensor. All wiring conections replaced or checked. I was told its the imobilizer and need a new key programmed. Something tells me its not it. There original key will open doors and start it. I did replace the battery in key fob. This is basically the only thing keeping me from driving it. Still need hood bumper tires and a lug stud put on. Missing a nut for an axel or strut but that's it. I ordered a new motor mount but none of these things should keep it from running. Have gone thru all fuses and relays. Can anyone help? I can't drive to dealer for reprogramming of key and a locksmith is about 400. I can clone a dup myself according to manuals but just don't see that as issue. Been working on this since July. I'm ready to get on the road

bbsciontc

The other guy mentioned it in another thread. I would investigate a fueling issue. Your pump may not be working right and may be dropping off fuel pressure. It could be a host of other things, but that's a starting point,

cjspitfire

Thanks. I will try that. No one has touched fuel pump or regulator. I know parts go out. This car been sitting since July 2015 but I drove it with no issue 04/16. I just can't see it as a key prob since its original key and I used to own locksmith businesses. My ex got in divorce but I'm not ignorant of those things. I'm just no mechanic. I appreciate prompt reply

bbsciontc

Yea, unfortunately it's next to impossible to diagnose on the net. There are just too many possibilities from the symptoms you state. I too don't think it's an immobilizer issue, as your car wouldn't be able to start at all. The other possibilities include bad sensors (MAF, Upstream O2 senso, Crank and/or camshaft position sensors), or just a gross vacuum leak somewhere. It really should be hooked up to a scan tool to look for some clues to the problem.

xile6

check engine light on? start with that.

cjspitfire

Won't won't stay running long nough to tell. It does after 3 seconds. I'm going to buy a code scanner here shortly. I'm not doing the work. I have a real mechanic doing it But the car is in my back yard. Can't drive it anywhere to test. I think it's the gasket at the throttle body. The one with the wire and small nub. He said fuel was leaking there and replaced with some other type o-ring. Its not leaking but I still think this is the problem. As I said in not a mechanic. I'm just a little old lady with some smarts. My daughter gave me the car. It has become a money pit but I hope to get some back due to oil consumption prob. I do a lot of research on things. But I still never know more than someone who does it a lot. I can't physically do the work. He did check fuel stuff and its all ok too

cjspitfire

I appreciate all the replies and time taken to give them

xile6

Yea get one of those check $20 scanner and check if it has a code.
The cars that i have seen that start up but turn off. At cause by the MAF sensor. Either not hook up, backwards or broken.

cjspitfire

I did get a scanner but was much more than $20. It came up with a code for each coil. p0351 0352 0353 0354. I think it's that gasket with the wire in it that has the small nub that goes on the manifold. And thought of MAF as well. Mechanic says these will cause veg to run poorly but not keep it from running. Good thing mechanic is my friend. He has put a lot of hours in on this plus his 50 hr week job. I know he is ready for it to end. I'm sure he will figure it out. He is ready to go home too! Thanks for the help.