Manualsonly

Just curious, does anyone know the Front-Rear weight distribution of the tC2?

I have a 2014 tC, we all know that power gains are minimal unless you go boost, I'm researching handling characteristics and am curious what the actual weight distribution is. We're obviously very front heavy. Just for fun i took out the rear seats and spare tire and went on a short drive... Yes it felt slightly quicker in straight line, but I lost a lot of confidence cornering at speed over uneven roads. This was just little experiment, the extra weight in the rear definitely helped the rear stay settled over bumps, without the seats and spare it was twitchy- i should also mention I'm currently running a stock suspension. Unless I want to shave an extra 10th of second in a drag, I'm keeping the seats and spare in my daily lol. Just curious what the numbers would be to go along with my little experiment.

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FreedomPenguin

No, just don't. I am pretty open minded but taking out seats etc to lose weight to gain time? You are in a 3500lb car (guessing idk) with 170-180hp: the seat weighs 4 lbs. so, you'd be better off just not eating.

Our car isn't meant to be drag raced and it's embaressing without a turbo to try.

It's your car man, but it's like having a 40 year old Subaru and taking off its gas cap to save the weight.

Placebo my car has 100-200 extea pounds from all the dyno mat and ensolite above on top it and audio + sub, also layers of undercoating not and stuff and there's absolutely no difference.

It's like having a passenger, our cars made for it with the torque, won't change that with subtle weight.

Manualsonly

Thanks, but I think you misunderstood my post. I'm not asking if I should remove the rear seats, in fact I advised against it. I was just wondering if anyone had the numbers to go along with what i experienced in my little experiment.

FreedomPenguin

I completely misunderstood it. Anything less than a few hundred pounds would have no effect on our cars in anyway though. I know I've added hundreds, hell I tow a motorcycle and trailer (1000lbs) across the country, and I felt very little difference other than I shift a little higher.

biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

Weight distribution is 64/36. Weight is just over 3100 lbs.

Manualsonly

Thanks Steve

JC3fresh

I know this is an old thread but nothing wrong with trying to lose some weight to get better handling and accel. If you want, you can lose the spare, rear seats (they aren’t only 4lbs), rear seat bench, replace the front seats with lighter ones, replace the hood(or any other panels) with carbon fiber, and go with some lighter wheels (our rims are ~26lbs and Konig has some that are as low as ~18lbs) and you’ll have something totally different, just by modifying the weight. You can go further and replace suspension components and have an even greater handling benefit. Every 100lbs you shed off your car will make a difference 0-60 and in handling, and it is more noticeable the more you shed if you know your car. Btw, serious question, how do you add 100-200lbs of insulation to your car? My car barley needed 36sqft of the Noico 80mil sound deadened and that is only 27lbs, if I did every square inch of my car and used Ensolite, it’d still be well under 100lbs.

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62Fender

Naturally aspirated four-cylinders have small windows of improvement. If it costs $100 of your time to cannibalize, you might not see $100 worth of return. As for buying parts, you'd likely see even less return. Is a $2000 set of wheels worth a tenth of a second, particularly when we don't know the results?

All this is speculative and might be why the OP asked for actual numbers.

DannoXYZ

Good ideas, weight is always easier and cheaper to shed than equivalent performance-increase with adding power. These engines are extremely optimised from factory and you're not gonna get significant increases without boost. Weight-loss also improves braking and handling/cornering performance.

Many decades ago, I used to take my street car (Supra) to tracks like Laguna Seca, Sears Point and Willow Springs. After over $15k in upgrading brakes, suspension, intake/cams/head-porting/pistons/rods + turbo, I realised I could've just bought track-ready car that didn't need all those parts upgraded. Sold Supra and got Porsche 944 Turbo. Total costs ended up being similar, but Porsche started where I ended up with all those upgrades on Supra. Way, way more durable and reliable too as Porsche was bone-stock and I didn't have to worry about continually blowing up headgaskets and frying valves like on Supra.

But both those cars are 3200-lbs and after certain point, weight-loss gets exponentially expensive. I'm gonna start with much, much lighter track-car next. Perhaps build tube-frame race-car from scratch...