Trailering with an xA...don't tell no one...
07-12-2012, 04:17 PM
#21
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
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My wife drives an old automatic 2004 xA. We had a U-Haul tow hitch installed for last year's camping trip but thus far have only used it for a bike rack mount. This year's camping trip we've got 2 new 8-year-old kids (our foster kid and we're kidnapping her best friend) so we've lost our rear cargo area. We've decided to go with the U-Haul 4x8 trailer (as a practice run for hauling a teardrop camper next year).
Normally I wouldn't worry but I live at 80 ft elevation and camp is 4650 ft straight up the Sierras--and its the middle of July so temps across California are kinda high. We're having a transmission radiator installed this afternoon by our usual family mechanic. We're looking into the lighting harness problem with U-Haul people. I'll post later how it all goes.
Normally I wouldn't worry but I live at 80 ft elevation and camp is 4650 ft straight up the Sierras--and its the middle of July so temps across California are kinda high. We're having a transmission radiator installed this afternoon by our usual family mechanic. We're looking into the lighting harness problem with U-Haul people. I'll post later how it all goes.
07-13-2012, 01:54 AM
#22
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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My wife drives an old automatic 2004 xA. We had a U-Haul tow hitch installed for last year's camping trip but thus far have only used it for a bike rack mount. This year's camping trip we've got 2 new 8-year-old kids (our foster kid and we're kidnapping her best friend) so we've lost our rear cargo area. We've decided to go with the U-Haul 4x8 trailer (as a practice run for hauling a teardrop camper next year).
Normally I wouldn't worry but I live at 80 ft elevation and camp is 4650 ft straight up the Sierras--and its the middle of July so temps across California are kinda high. We're having a transmission radiator installed this afternoon by our usual family mechanic. We're looking into the lighting harness problem with U-Haul people. I'll post later how it all goes.
Normally I wouldn't worry but I live at 80 ft elevation and camp is 4650 ft straight up the Sierras--and its the middle of July so temps across California are kinda high. We're having a transmission radiator installed this afternoon by our usual family mechanic. We're looking into the lighting harness problem with U-Haul people. I'll post later how it all goes.
About the lights: I once rented a U-Haul with the old lights, and the xA battery wouldn't keep them lit. Apparently, it is too small for anything but the LED lights on the newish U-Hauls.
07-14-2012, 02:24 AM
#23
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Don't expect to be passing anything going up the mountains either. That's quite a bit of extra weight for a 1.5l engine w/automatic. The cooler will help but like Mountain Boy said, take some breaks. It's a good excuse to pull over at some scenic spots and exercise the young-uns.
Keep a good eye on the trailer tongue weight too and secure any heavy items in the trailer to keep them from shifting.
I'm not sure if your wiring is the same as the '06 but earlier in this thread is wiring details.
Let us know how it goes and how the car performed.
Good luck and have fun!
Keep a good eye on the trailer tongue weight too and secure any heavy items in the trailer to keep them from shifting.
I'm not sure if your wiring is the same as the '06 but earlier in this thread is wiring details.
Let us know how it goes and how the car performed.
Good luck and have fun!
07-14-2012, 12:47 PM
#24
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Ditto on the tongue weight. This is crucial. If I recall, it should be roughly 1/10 of the trailer weight. So if your trailer and cargo weigh 1000 pounds, your tongue weight should be 100 pounds. You can measure tongue weight with a bathroom scale by standing on the scale and holding the trailer up at the exact height of your trailer hitch. Alternatively, you can find a brick or something that is at the same height and use it on the scale.
07-20-2012, 04:03 PM
#25
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Location: Sunnyvale, CA
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Well we made it. Pictures at my Flickr link below.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2861897...7630667242676/
I guestimate the cargo weight at about 600 lbs. I didn't do the bathroom scale thing with the tongue weight because I didn't want to have to lift it off the scale and drop it on the ball by hand fully loaded. I put a cinderblock under the kickstand that was just shy of an inch short dry and barely touched wet, so it was riding the ragged edge of U-Haul's recommended maximum suspension deflection.
Highway 4 in California has a "speedbump" between Stockton and Angel's Camp that rockets up 1200 feet or so inside 10 or so miles. From Angel's Camp to Calavaras Big Trees past Arnold is a steady 35-mile climb from 1200 feet or so to the camp's 4300 feet. Nasty business for towing.
Overheating the engine was my primary concern. I brought over my OBD-2-to-Bluetooth dongle and monitored coolant temp in real-time on my Android Torque ap the whole way up. Air temp was 91 F (yikes!). Coolant cruised at 80 C and peaked out at 98 C (yikes!) on the uphill grinds. I wasn't too worried as I know water takes way more heat to push over 100 C. Still, we were crawling at 25 mph on the up-hill grinds. It felt like clacking up a roller coaster.
And no, I wasn't passing anybody. I couldn't even pull over on the uphill inclines to let others pass me as I was afraid I wouldn't be able to get the rig started again in the heat.
I kept it under 55 mph the whole adventure, per U-Haul's trailer speed limit. Overall I averaged 25 mpg for the trip. Normally I'm getting 31 out of city driving.
Altogether: I wouldn't say the lil' xA could do more than that. I just about blew mine doing it. If you live anywhere near the Rockies, Cascades, or the Sierra: towing is probably not for you. But for around town or across valleys: I probably could have stuffed the trailer to the gills and been fine.
Oh, and backing up with a trailer is a whole new driving adventure. Everything is reversed, bassackwards, and just plain swear-worthy. Practice for about 20 minutes in private before sharing THAT joy. I still wouldn't say I've any skill at it.
Did it pass the "could tow a teardrop camper" test? I'd say...B- or so. Teardrop yes-- but camping the High Sierra with it: think twice.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2861897...7630667242676/
I guestimate the cargo weight at about 600 lbs. I didn't do the bathroom scale thing with the tongue weight because I didn't want to have to lift it off the scale and drop it on the ball by hand fully loaded. I put a cinderblock under the kickstand that was just shy of an inch short dry and barely touched wet, so it was riding the ragged edge of U-Haul's recommended maximum suspension deflection.
Highway 4 in California has a "speedbump" between Stockton and Angel's Camp that rockets up 1200 feet or so inside 10 or so miles. From Angel's Camp to Calavaras Big Trees past Arnold is a steady 35-mile climb from 1200 feet or so to the camp's 4300 feet. Nasty business for towing.
Overheating the engine was my primary concern. I brought over my OBD-2-to-Bluetooth dongle and monitored coolant temp in real-time on my Android Torque ap the whole way up. Air temp was 91 F (yikes!). Coolant cruised at 80 C and peaked out at 98 C (yikes!) on the uphill grinds. I wasn't too worried as I know water takes way more heat to push over 100 C. Still, we were crawling at 25 mph on the up-hill grinds. It felt like clacking up a roller coaster.
And no, I wasn't passing anybody. I couldn't even pull over on the uphill inclines to let others pass me as I was afraid I wouldn't be able to get the rig started again in the heat.
I kept it under 55 mph the whole adventure, per U-Haul's trailer speed limit. Overall I averaged 25 mpg for the trip. Normally I'm getting 31 out of city driving.
Altogether: I wouldn't say the lil' xA could do more than that. I just about blew mine doing it. If you live anywhere near the Rockies, Cascades, or the Sierra: towing is probably not for you. But for around town or across valleys: I probably could have stuffed the trailer to the gills and been fine.
Oh, and backing up with a trailer is a whole new driving adventure. Everything is reversed, bassackwards, and just plain swear-worthy. Practice for about 20 minutes in private before sharing THAT joy. I still wouldn't say I've any skill at it.
Did it pass the "could tow a teardrop camper" test? I'd say...B- or so. Teardrop yes-- but camping the High Sierra with it: think twice.
07-20-2012, 04:13 PM
#26
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Well done, marsvr. It does sound like you pushed the xA to its limit. 600 cargo weight was exactly what I had when I did the cross-country, and I too was sweating during my trip's only extended hill.
I agree with you that, around town, on flat terrain, there is very little issue at low speeds. And at the very least, the xA looks great with a trailer.
Glad you enjoyed it. Personally, I love having a hitch on my xA. It's the only car my family owns, and I really dig being able to turn it into a pick-up truck on weekends by renting a $26 U-Haul 4x7 utility trailer. With the seats down as well, the little hatchback carries quite a bit of cargo around town.
I agree with you that, around town, on flat terrain, there is very little issue at low speeds. And at the very least, the xA looks great with a trailer.
Glad you enjoyed it. Personally, I love having a hitch on my xA. It's the only car my family owns, and I really dig being able to turn it into a pick-up truck on weekends by renting a $26 U-Haul 4x7 utility trailer. With the seats down as well, the little hatchback carries quite a bit of cargo around town.
07-20-2012, 05:17 PM
#27
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
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Thanks. I'm just glad to be back alive from that adventure, and not stuck out on the side of some High Sierra road with a blown radiator and 2 young girls along that ain't mine. THAT would have been a fun conversation to have when Highway Patrol showed up. 
For my next bonehead stunt: methink's my '96 Suzuki Sidekick JX needs a trailer hitch next. Normally 'zukies are hauled behind RV rigs as a spare because their 4x4 transfer cases have a neutral gear that disengages the odometer when being towed--but they've got factory mounts for a tow hitch in the back too! On the down side it doesn't have the radiator capacity of the Scion xA. I already blew its thermostat and warped the front belt housing in the 115 F heat one summer just shy of the Grapevine on Highway 5 between Fresno and Bakersfield. It ain't been right on hills in the heat ever since. Its a convertible but the 'zuki'd be for winter hauling only.
Or if you want to talk outright absurdity: I also have a 2012 Scion iQ that ain't doin' nuthin' in the back. Nevermind the CVT slip: it still has WAY more low-end torque than the xA. And the iQ's rear chassis could really use a trailer crossbar to firm up the suspension. A teardrop camper behind THAT lil' thing'd be just too WTF awesome.
For my next bonehead stunt: methink's my '96 Suzuki Sidekick JX needs a trailer hitch next. Normally 'zukies are hauled behind RV rigs as a spare because their 4x4 transfer cases have a neutral gear that disengages the odometer when being towed--but they've got factory mounts for a tow hitch in the back too! On the down side it doesn't have the radiator capacity of the Scion xA. I already blew its thermostat and warped the front belt housing in the 115 F heat one summer just shy of the Grapevine on Highway 5 between Fresno and Bakersfield. It ain't been right on hills in the heat ever since. Its a convertible but the 'zuki'd be for winter hauling only.
Or if you want to talk outright absurdity: I also have a 2012 Scion iQ that ain't doin' nuthin' in the back. Nevermind the CVT slip: it still has WAY more low-end torque than the xA. And the iQ's rear chassis could really use a trailer crossbar to firm up the suspension. A teardrop camper behind THAT lil' thing'd be just too WTF awesome.
07-22-2012, 01:40 AM
#28
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Well played sir! I do miss the mountains but not having to drive them in the summer. Northern Ohio is surprisingly mountain free so that sort of thing isn't really an issue.
I'm assuming from the temp outside that you were running the A/C the whole time. That would just add to the load on the engine. Another reason I bought a Toyota, it can take it and keep on swinging.
I'm still tossing around trailer designs for the one I have and I think I will settle on a Berlin Flyer motif. Should turn some heads. I originally wanted to do all aluminum but after the sticker shock for materials I decided I didn't have a reliable way to weld it together anyway. And steel would be easier to just buy one.
I'm assuming from the temp outside that you were running the A/C the whole time. That would just add to the load on the engine. Another reason I bought a Toyota, it can take it and keep on swinging.
I'm still tossing around trailer designs for the one I have and I think I will settle on a Berlin Flyer motif. Should turn some heads. I originally wanted to do all aluminum but after the sticker shock for materials I decided I didn't have a reliable way to weld it together anyway. And steel would be easier to just buy one.
08-13-2012, 10:55 AM
#29
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Or if you want to talk outright absurdity: I also have a 2012 Scion iQ that ain't doin' nuthin' in the back. Nevermind the CVT slip: it still has WAY more low-end torque than the xA. And the iQ's rear chassis could really use a trailer crossbar to firm up the suspension. A teardrop camper behind THAT lil' thing'd be just too WTF awesome.
Like this?
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
05-02-2015, 05:47 PM
#31
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Just a quick bump on this thread to thank you all for this information. I live in California and am contemplating moving all of my stuff - including my Buddy 125 scooter - back east on a trailer towed behind my '06 xA. Your experiences with UHaul trailers, hills, and lights will be indispensable in about 6 months when I get it all together! Now, to figure out what "tongue weight" is... I am a total newbie to all of this, so THANK YOU! I'll keep you posted.
05-03-2015, 02:36 AM
#32
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Tongue weight is exactly that: the weight on the hitch ball. Optimal weight is 10% of the trailer weight. 1000# trailer ===> 100# on the ball. Balance (and secure) the load to get that.
You don't really want to go over that because of how far back the load is. It can effect steering response. Under and the trailer can get squirrly.
Check it with a bathroom scale.
Go easy up and down the hills: small engine and tiny brakes.
Good luck on your trip and congratulations on leaving that state.
You don't really want to go over that because of how far back the load is. It can effect steering response. Under and the trailer can get squirrly.
Check it with a bathroom scale.
Go easy up and down the hills: small engine and tiny brakes.
Good luck on your trip and congratulations on leaving that state.
06-24-2015, 06:20 PM
#33
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 26
I have towed a coleman colorado camper for about a thousand miles around the north east and that was before I did any work on my car.
I've since added - CAI, headers, and a trans cooler.
I'm currently swapping my fan out for a mishimoto fan while I change the coolant.
Next up is a cross country road trip with the camper.
I've since added - CAI, headers, and a trans cooler.
I'm currently swapping my fan out for a mishimoto fan while I change the coolant.
Next up is a cross country road trip with the camper.
04-12-2016, 01:20 AM
#34
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found a trailer!
My dreamy cross country road trip/move is slowly coming together... still haven't gotten the hitch or trailer, though I haven't stopped dreaming about it. I just found this trailer and it seems like this will be the one I get as it's readily available, reasonably priced, not as much of a pain as the Harbor Freight ones that require assembly, and has good reviews for long distance towing:
Shop Carry-On Trailer 4-ft x 6-ft Wire Mesh Utility Trailer with Gate at Lowes.com
I am hoping to install a chock on it for my scooter. Does anyone have experience with this? Do I need to install a piece of wood on it first before installing the chock?
Also, regarding the hitch, how do I know which of these Curt hitches will work with this trailer? Hitch Lookup for 2006 Scion xA All
Does it matter?
I am also thinking of loading some boxes or maybe a rolled up foam mattress on the trailer with the scooter. If I manage to get the weight evenly distributed, do you think this is a good idea to do? I will strap it all in securely but I've never towed anything long distance before. Other than being exposed to the elements, do you think it's OK to put stuff on the trailer other than the scooter?
Thank you!
Shop Carry-On Trailer 4-ft x 6-ft Wire Mesh Utility Trailer with Gate at Lowes.com
I am hoping to install a chock on it for my scooter. Does anyone have experience with this? Do I need to install a piece of wood on it first before installing the chock?
Also, regarding the hitch, how do I know which of these Curt hitches will work with this trailer? Hitch Lookup for 2006 Scion xA All
Does it matter?
I am also thinking of loading some boxes or maybe a rolled up foam mattress on the trailer with the scooter. If I manage to get the weight evenly distributed, do you think this is a good idea to do? I will strap it all in securely but I've never towed anything long distance before. Other than being exposed to the elements, do you think it's OK to put stuff on the trailer other than the scooter?
Thank you!
04-12-2016, 10:52 AM
#35
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Also, regarding the hitch, how do I know which of these Curt hitches will work with this trailer? Hitch Lookup for 2006 Scion xA All
Does it matter?
I am also thinking of loading some boxes or maybe a rolled up foam mattress on the trailer with the scooter. If I manage to get the weight evenly distributed, do you think this is a good idea to do? I will strap it all in securely but I've never towed anything long distance before. Other than being exposed to the elements, do you think it's OK to put stuff on the trailer other than the scooter?
Thank you!
About the weight: there is a lot on the internet regarding tongue weight and how to make it worth right. The generally gist is the that tongue weight (the amount of weight pushing down on the ball) should be no more than 10% of the total weight of the trailer. Double check the numbers, but my memory is that the Scion and its hitch set up can handle around 100-150lbs of tongue weight, which means 1000-1500 lbs of total trailer weight.
When loading up the trailer to ensure that the tongue weight is not over 100-150lbs, you can simply pick the trailer up while standing on a scale. At the exact level of your ball hitch, the scale should register no more than 100-150lbs over your normal body weight.
Hope that helps! Safe trailering!
01-22-2018, 02:17 AM
#36
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It's only taken me like 3 years to pull the trigger, but I am finally getting out of California and going back to New York in April. I have a few more trailer and route questions for anyone still listening...
I just ordered the Curt hitch, which is rated at 2000lbs. I'm going to get the UHaul 5'x8' trailer. I'm also not sure if everyone's estimates of towing 600-1000lbs takes into account a packed vehicle. Mountain_Boy, was your car packed when you did your drive? How should I factor that in? I am hoping to take as much of my stuff as I can in the xA and in the trailer packed in around my 220lb scooter, though I won't pack it to the gills if towing 1000lbs is going to kill my engine. What do you think?
I'm also determining a fairly flat route to take where I also have friends I can stay with. I'm going to take the 10 from LA to Tucson and then route 25 north through New Mexico, up to Santa Fe and Denver (this will be the most dicey part as it goes uphill), then east on route 70, flat and boring all the way home. Do you guys know anything about New Mexico? It seems like there's an incline, but nothing like going on the 80 through the Sierras, which seems like a horrible idea with a trailer.
Thanks for all of your help! I am leaving April 1, so there's some time still for me to get excited and plan.
I just ordered the Curt hitch, which is rated at 2000lbs. I'm going to get the UHaul 5'x8' trailer. I'm also not sure if everyone's estimates of towing 600-1000lbs takes into account a packed vehicle. Mountain_Boy, was your car packed when you did your drive? How should I factor that in? I am hoping to take as much of my stuff as I can in the xA and in the trailer packed in around my 220lb scooter, though I won't pack it to the gills if towing 1000lbs is going to kill my engine. What do you think?
I'm also determining a fairly flat route to take where I also have friends I can stay with. I'm going to take the 10 from LA to Tucson and then route 25 north through New Mexico, up to Santa Fe and Denver (this will be the most dicey part as it goes uphill), then east on route 70, flat and boring all the way home. Do you guys know anything about New Mexico? It seems like there's an incline, but nothing like going on the 80 through the Sierras, which seems like a horrible idea with a trailer.
Thanks for all of your help! I am leaving April 1, so there's some time still for me to get excited and plan.
01-23-2018, 01:13 AM
#37
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This sounds like fun! I remember looking into this matter and basically learning that there were physics involved (staying in control) and mechanical issues (not smoking out the motor or the brakes).
As far as physics go, the trailer can't be heavier than the car. The car is 2000lbs so the loaded trailer shouldn't be more than that. The smaller U-Haul trailers are about 800lbs, so I tried to keep the cargo at less than 700lbs to keep the overall at 1500lbs. Then I used a scale to ensure that the tongue weight was about 150lbs, or 10% of the total weight of the trailer. These calculations become especially important due to the small size of the xA. You don't want the trailer whipping the xA around the road, or lifting its front wheels off the ground (via too heavy tongue weight), or pulling its rear wheels off the ground (via too light tongue weight). From the perspective of physics, a loaded car is good since it tends to stabilize the overall system by balancing out the weight of the trailer.
Then there are the mechanical issues of accelerating and braking. The general theory is that you should be able to accelerate and brake fine, as long as you don't try to do either one too quickly. (Think about pulling a trailer on your bicycle. As long as you have time to accelerate and decelerate slowly, you can pull almost anything.) So leave plenty of time to accelerate on the highway sand try to coast to a stop on offramp. (Ignore the traffic screaming at you from behind. Or better yet, avoid getting close to anyone and use your hazard lights liberally.)
If you have a manual transmission, that should help a great deal to preserve your motor and brakes, since you can easily shift down going both up and down the hills. If not, the you may want to consider a transmission cooler. I know nothing about them, but I've read that they will help keep you from burning out your transmission. You may want to turn your AC off on the climbs and perhaps downshift the automatic transmission (if permitted) on the downhills.
Above all, watch that tongue weight and try to avoid getting close to anyone. Most trailer wrecks happen due to tongue weight problems (causing jackknifing) or not being able to stop.
Happy trailering!
As far as physics go, the trailer can't be heavier than the car. The car is 2000lbs so the loaded trailer shouldn't be more than that. The smaller U-Haul trailers are about 800lbs, so I tried to keep the cargo at less than 700lbs to keep the overall at 1500lbs. Then I used a scale to ensure that the tongue weight was about 150lbs, or 10% of the total weight of the trailer. These calculations become especially important due to the small size of the xA. You don't want the trailer whipping the xA around the road, or lifting its front wheels off the ground (via too heavy tongue weight), or pulling its rear wheels off the ground (via too light tongue weight). From the perspective of physics, a loaded car is good since it tends to stabilize the overall system by balancing out the weight of the trailer.
Then there are the mechanical issues of accelerating and braking. The general theory is that you should be able to accelerate and brake fine, as long as you don't try to do either one too quickly. (Think about pulling a trailer on your bicycle. As long as you have time to accelerate and decelerate slowly, you can pull almost anything.) So leave plenty of time to accelerate on the highway sand try to coast to a stop on offramp. (Ignore the traffic screaming at you from behind. Or better yet, avoid getting close to anyone and use your hazard lights liberally.)
If you have a manual transmission, that should help a great deal to preserve your motor and brakes, since you can easily shift down going both up and down the hills. If not, the you may want to consider a transmission cooler. I know nothing about them, but I've read that they will help keep you from burning out your transmission. You may want to turn your AC off on the climbs and perhaps downshift the automatic transmission (if permitted) on the downhills.
Above all, watch that tongue weight and try to avoid getting close to anyone. Most trailer wrecks happen due to tongue weight problems (causing jackknifing) or not being able to stop.
Happy trailering!
12-13-2022, 02:59 AM
#38
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Join Date: Dec 2022
Posts: 2
It started out with a desire to transport a bicycle (or two) without having to take it apart.
I looked at the options and figured a hitch was needed no mater what so I ordered a Curt: easy 4 bolt install (with a bit of cursing about popping the rear muffler mount). Only other thing I had to do is tap the tail pipe trim back a bit to stop it from rattling against the hitch frame. Step one complete.
I looked at hitch-mount racks and baskets and wasn't really impressed with the utility aspect of them. Then the wife decided to do some massive pruning in the yard...and suddenly a trailer became an option. I found one with a 52x52" deck that needed a bit of work for a very good price and dragged it home.
I didn't want to damage the wiring on my taillight harness and no one makes a kit for an xA because everyone knows that an xA can't pull a trailer, right? The xB kit looked like it had the same tail light connectors so I got the Curt 56030 xB kit and figured I could rewire the plugs if needed.
I had to move three pins in each plug to match the xA taillight pinout but other than that it was a plug-in install. It works like a charm and can be removed in 5 minutes.
TOWING: rule #1, don't be stupid. Don't expect to drag 2000# with the car. Not enough engine or brakes to do it safely. Keep in mind that once you get it moving, you will have to stop it eventually. Sometimes quickly. It will put extra wear on the brakes and drive train.
Rule #2, tongue weight is everything. The class 1 hitch can pull 2000# with a 200# tongue weight. That is the HITCH rating...not the car. There are three reasons that we have reduced/nonexistent towing ratings in the US: lawyer, lawyers and people that don't think. I would not drive the car if it had 200# sitting aft of the rear wheels. 100# is pushing it and I load for 50-75. Likewise the trailer weight: the maximum I would attempt to pull is 1000#. Three adult passengers is around 600# so that's not unreasonable and most small trailers are rated for around 1000# anyway.
Rule #3, drive like you are on snow: brake early and go easy on turns. In the US few small trailers have brakes (unlike Europe where trailering with small cars is much more common) and the brakes on the xA, while great, are a bit on the small side. They can heat up fast and start fading.
Back slowly, with such a short wheelbase the trailer will jackknife in a second. I had an '83 Jeep CJ5 that I towed with and had the same issue.
Practice backing with it before you have to do it in front of people...
Never forget that it's behind you. It's easy to do.
With more small cars on the road and the need to haul the same loads, there will be more small trailers out there. Use common sense and you too can help break the Anti-Trailering In The US Conspiracy! Also known as the Buy A Fuel Hog Truck Conspiracy.
I looked at the options and figured a hitch was needed no mater what so I ordered a Curt: easy 4 bolt install (with a bit of cursing about popping the rear muffler mount). Only other thing I had to do is tap the tail pipe trim back a bit to stop it from rattling against the hitch frame. Step one complete.
I looked at hitch-mount racks and baskets and wasn't really impressed with the utility aspect of them. Then the wife decided to do some massive pruning in the yard...and suddenly a trailer became an option. I found one with a 52x52" deck that needed a bit of work for a very good price and dragged it home.
I didn't want to damage the wiring on my taillight harness and no one makes a kit for an xA because everyone knows that an xA can't pull a trailer, right? The xB kit looked like it had the same tail light connectors so I got the Curt 56030 xB kit and figured I could rewire the plugs if needed.
I had to move three pins in each plug to match the xA taillight pinout but other than that it was a plug-in install. It works like a charm and can be removed in 5 minutes.
TOWING: rule #1, don't be stupid. Don't expect to drag 2000# with the car. Not enough engine or brakes to do it safely. Keep in mind that once you get it moving, you will have to stop it eventually. Sometimes quickly. It will put extra wear on the brakes and drive train.
Rule #2, tongue weight is everything. The class 1 hitch can pull 2000# with a 200# tongue weight. That is the HITCH rating...not the car. There are three reasons that we have reduced/nonexistent towing ratings in the US: lawyer, lawyers and people that don't think. I would not drive the car if it had 200# sitting aft of the rear wheels. 100# is pushing it and I load for 50-75. Likewise the trailer weight: the maximum I would attempt to pull is 1000#. Three adult passengers is around 600# so that's not unreasonable and most small trailers are rated for around 1000# anyway.
Rule #3, drive like you are on snow: brake early and go easy on turns. In the US few small trailers have brakes (unlike Europe where trailering with small cars is much more common) and the brakes on the xA, while great, are a bit on the small side. They can heat up fast and start fading.
Back slowly, with such a short wheelbase the trailer will jackknife in a second. I had an '83 Jeep CJ5 that I towed with and had the same issue.
Practice backing with it before you have to do it in front of people...
Never forget that it's behind you. It's easy to do.
With more small cars on the road and the need to haul the same loads, there will be more small trailers out there. Use common sense and you too can help break the Anti-Trailering In The US Conspiracy! Also known as the Buy A Fuel Hog Truck Conspiracy.
12-13-2022, 11:19 PM
#39
Member
SL Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sandusky,Oh
Posts: 42
Son still has the xA and hasn't hit 70k miles yet . . .
The picture in post #10 shows a before and installed harness. Make the harness look like the one installed.
Getting the locks undone may take some figuring out. (it's been 10 years since I looked at it!)
Rereading the notes there's just one pair of wires to swap.
Standard trailer wires are:
Brown - lights
Red - brakes
Green - right turn
Yellow - left turn
As you can see on the harness one side works with left turn and lights. The other side works the brakes and right turn.
Good luck, it's well worth the effort to do.
@MangoTheLegend
12-14-2022, 02:35 AM
#40
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2022
Posts: 2
Wow, it's been ten years since I started this!
Son still has the xA and hasn't hit 70k miles yet . . .
The picture in post #10 shows a before and installed harness. Make the harness look like the one installed.
Getting the locks undone may take some figuring out. (it's been 10 years since I looked at it!)
Rereading the notes there's just one pair of wires to swap.
Standard trailer wires are:
Brown - lights
Red - brakes
Green - right turn
Yellow - left turn
As you can see on the harness one side works with left turn and lights. The other side works the brakes and right turn.
Good luck, it's well worth the effort to do.
@MangoTheLegend
Son still has the xA and hasn't hit 70k miles yet . . .
The picture in post #10 shows a before and installed harness. Make the harness look like the one installed.
Getting the locks undone may take some figuring out. (it's been 10 years since I looked at it!)
Rereading the notes there's just one pair of wires to swap.
Standard trailer wires are:
Brown - lights
Red - brakes
Green - right turn
Yellow - left turn
As you can see on the harness one side works with left turn and lights. The other side works the brakes and right turn.
Good luck, it's well worth the effort to do.
@MangoTheLegend
In case anyone else in the next 10 yrs is looking for this same info lol the outer locks you can just pry out with a tiny screwdriver and then the secondary lock you lift a tab under the pin you want to remove. You are switching a yellow and white on one side and a green and white on the other. Just look at the pictures on post #10 like mentioned before and follow it across.