View Poll Results: How Are my DIYs
Sticky this now!
19
90.48%
Great 1st DIY
4
19.05%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 21. You may not vote on this poll
DIY: Water Pump Replacment Tutorial - ( Scion XA & others 1.5L Engine) Instructions
#21
This would be a very useful starter set that everyone should have.
GearWrench 93004 5 Piece Combination Ratcheting Wrench Set Metric - Gear Wrench Metric -
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 02-21-2020 at 01:48 PM. Reason: Link Updated by Administrator
#22
Sorry guys I'm pretty fresh to all this. Apologize for all the newb questions, but want to get it right the first time so I can get back to work on Monday. I think I got this down after buying all the parts. I just had three questions:
1) I'm kind of weary of jacking up the engine block. The instructions state a "2x6 flat between the oil pan and the jack". Is this a 2x6 piece of wood? I haven't figured out how to approach this, any aids would help.
2) is there a proper way to tension on the alternator belt when you put it back on? I wasn't sure if taking a picture of the bolt point before and eye balling it when I put it back together, or if there is a process to follow when putting it back in place?
3) Can you over tighten the bolts? Most of the stuff I read that involves the block has a torque setting.
1) I'm kind of weary of jacking up the engine block. The instructions state a "2x6 flat between the oil pan and the jack". Is this a 2x6 piece of wood? I haven't figured out how to approach this, any aids would help.
2) is there a proper way to tension on the alternator belt when you put it back on? I wasn't sure if taking a picture of the bolt point before and eye balling it when I put it back together, or if there is a process to follow when putting it back in place?
3) Can you over tighten the bolts? Most of the stuff I read that involves the block has a torque setting.
#23
Sorry guys I'm pretty fresh to all this. Apologize for all the newb questions, but want to get it right the first time so I can get back to work on Monday. I think I got this down after buying all the parts. I just had three questions:
1) I'm kind of weary of jacking up the engine block. The instructions state a "2x6 flat between the oil pan and the jack". Is this a 2x6 piece of wood? I haven't figured out how to approach this, any aids would help.
2) is there a proper way to tension on the alternator belt when you put it back on? I wasn't sure if taking a picture of the bolt point before and eye balling it when I put it back together, or if there is a process to follow when putting it back in place?
3) Can you over tighten the bolts? Most of the stuff I read that involves the block has a torque setting.
1) I'm kind of weary of jacking up the engine block. The instructions state a "2x6 flat between the oil pan and the jack". Is this a 2x6 piece of wood? I haven't figured out how to approach this, any aids would help.
2) is there a proper way to tension on the alternator belt when you put it back on? I wasn't sure if taking a picture of the bolt point before and eye balling it when I put it back together, or if there is a process to follow when putting it back in place?
3) Can you over tighten the bolts? Most of the stuff I read that involves the block has a torque setting.
1)yes the 2x6 is wood, about a foot long for "padding' between your oil pan and steel jack.
2) I believe you can buy a special tool to get the accurate tension on the belt. I always have just done it by feel. Don't over tighten it. If it is a little loose the belt will squeal, and needs to be tightened more. feel the tension before you loosen it, that should help.
3) YES you can overtighten anything, look to your book for proper torque specs. Again I have always done it by hand, too lose and it will slip looser, to tight and you will damage it forever. I would buy a book If I were you, it will have torque specs and lots of other useful info.
#24
1)yes the 2x6 is wood, about a foot long for "padding' between your oil pan and steel jack.
2) I believe you can buy a special tool to get the accurate tension on the belt. I always have just done it by feel. Don't over tighten it. If it is a little loose the belt will squeal, and needs to be tightened more. feel the tension before you loosen it, that should help.
3) YES you can overtighten anything, look to your book for proper torque specs. Again I have always done it by hand, too lose and it will slip looser, to tight and you will damage it forever. I would buy a book If I were you, it will have torque specs and lots of other useful info.
2) I believe you can buy a special tool to get the accurate tension on the belt. I always have just done it by feel. Don't over tighten it. If it is a little loose the belt will squeal, and needs to be tightened more. feel the tension before you loosen it, that should help.
3) YES you can overtighten anything, look to your book for proper torque specs. Again I have always done it by hand, too lose and it will slip looser, to tight and you will damage it forever. I would buy a book If I were you, it will have torque specs and lots of other useful info.
I went ahead and bought a breaker bar and a gear wrench instead, and I think I have everything else I need to finish the project.
#25
I did flush the coolant system, installed the new water pump, and replaced the thermostat. Mind you this was my first DIY on a car, I've previously did minor maintenance on a motorcycle.
As expected, the alternator was a beast. I needed a breaker bar (3/8" from Harbor Freight = 8 bucks) to get the bottom bolt out. Also, it helped with getting the engine mounts bolts out.
As mentioned, the Gear wrenches (Ratcheting) were pretty much necessary given the amount of space getting around the back bolts on the water pump. Lifting the engine I was able to get around everything else pretty easily.
I did try to go cheap and get the Craftsman variation and they were too long to maneuver in the engine. Bad idea, get Gear Wrench.
It helped having a friend around to get the alternator in and bolted on. We had to use a block of wood/hammer and a couple taps to get the alternator back on, really tight fit.
I also siphoned the liquid out of the overflow, Harbor Freight transfer pump $6.
I used this combo of DIY to get a holistic view of the project:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sci...29/?styleid=14 (2nd Gen, but still helpful)
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2938123
http://www.clubxb.com/forums/scion-x...l-gen-1-a.html
http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/20.../flush_coolant
http://www.clubxb.com/forums/scion-x...ittle-low.html
http://www.clubxb.com/forums/scion-x...ml#post1282841 (Engine drain)
Really appreciate the tutorial, and the assistance with my questions.
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As expected, the alternator was a beast. I needed a breaker bar (3/8" from Harbor Freight = 8 bucks) to get the bottom bolt out. Also, it helped with getting the engine mounts bolts out.
As mentioned, the Gear wrenches (Ratcheting) were pretty much necessary given the amount of space getting around the back bolts on the water pump. Lifting the engine I was able to get around everything else pretty easily.
I did try to go cheap and get the Craftsman variation and they were too long to maneuver in the engine. Bad idea, get Gear Wrench.
It helped having a friend around to get the alternator in and bolted on. We had to use a block of wood/hammer and a couple taps to get the alternator back on, really tight fit.
I also siphoned the liquid out of the overflow, Harbor Freight transfer pump $6.
I used this combo of DIY to get a holistic view of the project:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sci...29/?styleid=14 (2nd Gen, but still helpful)
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2938123
http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/20.../flush_coolant
http://www.clubxb.com/forums/scion-x...ittle-low.html
http://www.clubxb.com/forums/scion-x...ml#post1282841 (Engine drain)
Really appreciate the tutorial, and the assistance with my questions.
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 06-09-2020 at 05:39 AM. Reason: emphasis by Moderator
#26
This is a great tutorial, I've been trying to get my alternator out all day. I think this car was designed to be worked on my contortionist "little people". I've got everything but the bottom alternator bolt out. I've got a regular socket wrench with the 1" or so socket now backed up against the airbag sensor bracket. I can't get the bolt out any further because the airbag sensor is in the way, and I can't reverse the socket wrench because the flippy dial thing can't be rotated, it's stuck against the airbag sensor.
I think my only hope is to try to get another wrench in there to remove the airbag sensor, but I have no idea how I'm supposed to fit it.
*Administrator's Note: Heed the OP's warning: "if I had started with a Gear wrench (Ratcheting), I would have been better off."
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I think my only hope is to try to get another wrench in there to remove the airbag sensor, but I have no idea how I'm supposed to fit it.
*Administrator's Note: Heed the OP's warning: "if I had started with a Gear wrench (Ratcheting), I would have been better off."
__________________
Last edited by MR_LUV; 06-09-2020 at 05:40 AM. Reason: emphasis by Administrator
#27
Curious
Replaced belts due to some annoying squeaking but not constant. I've never had any leaks and have over 235K on my 2006 xA. Last night a co-worker noticed I was leaking something it was a reddish fluid thinking it maybe trans or brake fluid I was concerned but not overly and continued to go do my route as normal figuring I would take it to a shop in the morning. Unfortunately I discovered it was not either but apparently a coolant issue given my temp light came on and when I opened the hood it looked like coolant was all over. I'm thinking it is the water pump given the pumps location and all the squeaking my car has been doing over the past month or so. I replaced the belts thinking that it was just a belt slippage issue, but I really suspect the water pump now because there was a mention of red fluid in this DIY forum.
My fan turns on to cool so i'm thinking the thermostat is fine but the fan alone doesn't seem to be able to cool it down enough so I have done stop, cool down then drive to finally get back home and found this wonderful info board.
Hopefully this will be an easy fix and I can get back to work. Just wondering if anyone had any other suggestions on what my issue here could be... Will update on repairs. Thanks for having such detailed info hopefully I can do this myself if I can get the water pump today.
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Wish me luck.
Last edited by MR_LUV; 02-21-2020 at 01:53 PM.
#28
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: State of Confusion: CA
Posts: 2,583
Thank you! Sciota for the Write-up w/pics. Thank you, caliscion83 for posting the Youtube video.
Typically, as a car ages, it will require a Water Pump replacement. His was Replaced at 177K.
I made it a Sticky!
*Heed his Warning on using Gear Wrenches (Ratcheting) instead of standard wrenches to remove the back bolts.
GearWrench 93004 5 Piece Combination Ratcheting Wrench Set Metric - Gear Wrench Metric -
Typically, as a car ages, it will require a Water Pump replacement. His was Replaced at 177K.
I made it a Sticky!
*Heed his Warning on using Gear Wrenches (Ratcheting) instead of standard wrenches to remove the back bolts.
GearWrench 93004 5 Piece Combination Ratcheting Wrench Set Metric - Gear Wrench Metric -
Last edited by MR_LUV; 06-09-2020 at 05:41 AM.
#29
My 2005 xB Automatic is on its third water pump now. I watched a lot of videos and read a lot of tutorials, and I went with this one because I didn't want to crawl around under the car. It was still a royal PITA because of the tight working space. The original pump went out at about 90,000 miles and was replaced with an aftermarket one (I didn't change that one, someone else did) that didn't last as long. I unbolted the airbag sensor and tucked it out of the way to get the alternator bolt out (I remembered to disconnect the battery prior to that). I fought with the alternator getting it out. Mine was clamped down too hard on the engine block for some reason and I had to use a pry bar go get it free from the engine. It gouged the aluminum on the engine block a bit, but I filed the spacer down on the alternator and the gouged aluminum on the block and got it to go back in easily. I went with a Genuine Toyota one this time and I should never have to replace it again. That's the nice thing about getting old.
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 02-21-2020 at 01:26 PM.
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