Alarm/Keyless/Remote Start Guide
10-28-2004, 04:16 AM
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Alarm/Keyless/Remote Start Guide
Keyless Entry / Alarm / Remote Start wiring guide
(This is from 2 sources that do nothing but wiring guides. Usually pretty good but I know at least 1 wire is wrong, I will note it. Pretty sure it was the unlock wire)
As always check the wires with a test light or multi-meter before you cut.
Basics: Ignition / Starter kill(or start) and Acc wires:
located in large electrical taped mess to the left of the stearing colum, there is a 90 degree plastic piece that points the wires left, you can remove the plastic piece and make life easier
Door lock, Door trigger wires:
are in the kick panel on the left next to the clutch (or brake) behind this flimsy plastic piece that is held on with 1 plastic nut, unscrew the nut, pop off the door sill plates (the pieces next to the seat that hold the carpet down. there are no screw in those pieces, use a long flat head screw driver to pop them off, they are just metal clips(or plastic). Pull on the Kick panel peiece and remove it. There will be a large white plug with about 15 wires in it. It holds the door trigger and door lock wires.
Keyless Entry wires:
12 Volts [Located at stearing colum] (enough to power keyless) : White with red stripe (really big thick wire)
12 Volts [Located at stearing colum] (enough to power remote start this is a 50amp line do not screw around when cutting or striping) : White with blue stripe (really big and thick wire)
Ignition (key on) [Located at stearing colum] white with blue stripe (Thin wire)
Door lock [located in large white plug in kick panel] (Negitive trigger) brown with yellow stripe
Door unlock (Negitive trigger) [located in white plug, kick panel] Blue with yellow stripe to yellow with black stripe (this was somewhat a pain in the ___ as to test the lock unlock wires you need a Power Probe or multi meter, these throw a negitive pulse. Put the key in the driver door and unlock the door twice with the key, you should see a -12 volt thats the unlock (it's one of those 2 wires, varies from Toyota) Negitive or reversing triggers out of alarms trip these fine, no relay needed
Parking lights (if wanted) Postive 12 volts need to go to this wire [Located inside the colum, take the 3 or 4 screws off the bottom of the colum and the pieces for the stearing colum snap apart. Easier to take apart than put back together. GREEN wire, test for 12 volts when only the parking lights are turned on, turn off lights should go back to 0.
Alarm wires:
Door trigger (all doors) Negitive trigger thin red with white stripe, [located in the plug mess above the fuse box. Take off the fuse box cover and look up inside. there is 4 or 5 red/white wires. You will need to close all the doors, then hold down the pin switch in the driver door for about 15 seconds to check for - (it will flip from + to - when the pin is held down for about 15 seconds or right away, can't remember)
Hood pin: your on your own.
Horn trigger [located in stearing colum] white with red stripe (negitive trigger)
Starter kill Black [located near colum in that wire mess]
Remote start wires:
(all except brake wires are in the colum, tach wire ... I couldn't find/ didn't care but I have the location for it.)
Ign 1 black with red stripe
Ign 2 black with yellow stripe
Acc line (radio, ac, heater, rear defroster) white with blue stripe
Brake switch green with white stripe, located in white plug on brake pedal, unplug it to tap the wire.
Parking brake (usually not required) yellow with red stripe [located, top of fuse box, gray plug with 11 wires in it
Tach wire: black [located back of fuse box 18 pin plug]
Do not mess around doing an auto start if you are not 100% sure you know what your doing and check the wires. You can cause alot of damage really quickly. Reading a wire guide does not make you an expert.
All wires in this guide should be checked with a test light or multi meter before cutting or splicing them.
I am not responsible for any damage you might do to your car. Hence why you must have a test light or multi meter to do any of this.
Installers guide: (can be used for shops that might not have them or say they don't know)
12 Volts [colum] (15 amp) : White / red
12 Volts [colum] (50 amp) : White / blue
Ignition [colum] white with blue stripe (Thin wire)
Door lock [kick panel] (-) brown with yellow stripe
Door unlock (-) [kick panel] Blue with yellow stripe to yellow with black stripe
Parking lights (+)[colum]
Door trigger (all doors) (-) thin red with white stripe, [top of fuse box, 9 pin plug]
Hood pin: your on your own.
Horn trigger [colum] white with red stripe (-)
Starter kill/start Black
Hazard lights green/orage at switch
Left turn signal green/black (+) top of fuse box 13 pin plug
Right turn signal green/yellow (+) top of fuse box 13 pin plug
Reverse lights red/white (+) top of fuse block 9 pin plug
Key sense (-) yellow IGN harness
Remote start wires:
Ign 1 black / red
Ign 2 black / yellow
Acc line (radio, ac, heater, rear defroster) white / blue
Brake switch green / white located in white plug on brake pedal, unplug it to tap the wire.
Parking brake yellow / red stripe [top of fuse box, gray 11 pin plug]
Tach wire: black [located back of fuse box 18 pin plug]
Install notes:
Neg trip door locks, Driver Priority can be run off blue/white(lock) and blue/black to yellow/green (Unlock) Driver priority is 5 wire reverse polarity.
Double unlock pulse required for single unlock all operation. Can also tap inside pass. door key cyl for single unlock pulse wire.
Pull fuse box cover to be able to see ign wires easier.
Large steel grounding plate on left side of firewall
I skipped the tach wire on these installs. 1.5 second crank needed to always start if tach wire is skipped and auto sense is used.
Shock sensor is more than sensitive on IGN loom once taped back up.
Other wise it's a very straight forward install.
If you do not know what you are doing save yourself some time, headache and possibly a bad trip to the dealer and pay a shop. Remember there are those who do not work for shops that do know how to do this, and those that say they do. Those that say they do are messing with your car, so whats the worst that can happen, it's not thier new car.
(This is from 2 sources that do nothing but wiring guides. Usually pretty good but I know at least 1 wire is wrong, I will note it. Pretty sure it was the unlock wire)
As always check the wires with a test light or multi-meter before you cut.
Basics: Ignition / Starter kill(or start) and Acc wires:
located in large electrical taped mess to the left of the stearing colum, there is a 90 degree plastic piece that points the wires left, you can remove the plastic piece and make life easier
Door lock, Door trigger wires:
are in the kick panel on the left next to the clutch (or brake) behind this flimsy plastic piece that is held on with 1 plastic nut, unscrew the nut, pop off the door sill plates (the pieces next to the seat that hold the carpet down. there are no screw in those pieces, use a long flat head screw driver to pop them off, they are just metal clips(or plastic). Pull on the Kick panel peiece and remove it. There will be a large white plug with about 15 wires in it. It holds the door trigger and door lock wires.
Keyless Entry wires:
12 Volts [Located at stearing colum] (enough to power keyless) : White with red stripe (really big thick wire)
12 Volts [Located at stearing colum] (enough to power remote start this is a 50amp line do not screw around when cutting or striping) : White with blue stripe (really big and thick wire)
Ignition (key on) [Located at stearing colum] white with blue stripe (Thin wire)
Door lock [located in large white plug in kick panel] (Negitive trigger) brown with yellow stripe
Door unlock (Negitive trigger) [located in white plug, kick panel] Blue with yellow stripe to yellow with black stripe (this was somewhat a pain in the ___ as to test the lock unlock wires you need a Power Probe or multi meter, these throw a negitive pulse. Put the key in the driver door and unlock the door twice with the key, you should see a -12 volt thats the unlock (it's one of those 2 wires, varies from Toyota) Negitive or reversing triggers out of alarms trip these fine, no relay needed
Parking lights (if wanted) Postive 12 volts need to go to this wire [Located inside the colum, take the 3 or 4 screws off the bottom of the colum and the pieces for the stearing colum snap apart. Easier to take apart than put back together. GREEN wire, test for 12 volts when only the parking lights are turned on, turn off lights should go back to 0.
Alarm wires:
Door trigger (all doors) Negitive trigger thin red with white stripe, [located in the plug mess above the fuse box. Take off the fuse box cover and look up inside. there is 4 or 5 red/white wires. You will need to close all the doors, then hold down the pin switch in the driver door for about 15 seconds to check for - (it will flip from + to - when the pin is held down for about 15 seconds or right away, can't remember)
Hood pin: your on your own.
Horn trigger [located in stearing colum] white with red stripe (negitive trigger)
Starter kill Black [located near colum in that wire mess]
Remote start wires:
(all except brake wires are in the colum, tach wire ... I couldn't find/ didn't care but I have the location for it.)
Ign 1 black with red stripe
Ign 2 black with yellow stripe
Acc line (radio, ac, heater, rear defroster) white with blue stripe
Brake switch green with white stripe, located in white plug on brake pedal, unplug it to tap the wire.
Parking brake (usually not required) yellow with red stripe [located, top of fuse box, gray plug with 11 wires in it
Tach wire: black [located back of fuse box 18 pin plug]
Do not mess around doing an auto start if you are not 100% sure you know what your doing and check the wires. You can cause alot of damage really quickly. Reading a wire guide does not make you an expert.
All wires in this guide should be checked with a test light or multi meter before cutting or splicing them.
I am not responsible for any damage you might do to your car. Hence why you must have a test light or multi meter to do any of this.
Installers guide: (can be used for shops that might not have them or say they don't know)
12 Volts [colum] (15 amp) : White / red
12 Volts [colum] (50 amp) : White / blue
Ignition [colum] white with blue stripe (Thin wire)
Door lock [kick panel] (-) brown with yellow stripe
Door unlock (-) [kick panel] Blue with yellow stripe to yellow with black stripe
Parking lights (+)[colum]
Door trigger (all doors) (-) thin red with white stripe, [top of fuse box, 9 pin plug]
Hood pin: your on your own.
Horn trigger [colum] white with red stripe (-)
Starter kill/start Black
Hazard lights green/orage at switch
Left turn signal green/black (+) top of fuse box 13 pin plug
Right turn signal green/yellow (+) top of fuse box 13 pin plug
Reverse lights red/white (+) top of fuse block 9 pin plug
Key sense (-) yellow IGN harness
Remote start wires:
Ign 1 black / red
Ign 2 black / yellow
Acc line (radio, ac, heater, rear defroster) white / blue
Brake switch green / white located in white plug on brake pedal, unplug it to tap the wire.
Parking brake yellow / red stripe [top of fuse box, gray 11 pin plug]
Tach wire: black [located back of fuse box 18 pin plug]
Install notes:
Neg trip door locks, Driver Priority can be run off blue/white(lock) and blue/black to yellow/green (Unlock) Driver priority is 5 wire reverse polarity.
Double unlock pulse required for single unlock all operation. Can also tap inside pass. door key cyl for single unlock pulse wire.
Pull fuse box cover to be able to see ign wires easier.
Large steel grounding plate on left side of firewall
I skipped the tach wire on these installs. 1.5 second crank needed to always start if tach wire is skipped and auto sense is used.
Shock sensor is more than sensitive on IGN loom once taped back up.
Other wise it's a very straight forward install.
If you do not know what you are doing save yourself some time, headache and possibly a bad trip to the dealer and pay a shop. Remember there are those who do not work for shops that do know how to do this, and those that say they do. Those that say they do are messing with your car, so whats the worst that can happen, it's not thier new car.
11-06-2004, 09:36 PM
#2
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Please read updates
Tach wire, forget getting it at the back of the fuse block
Tach wire Black ,small plug going into the tach behind the radio, left hand plug
Door trigger for all doors (I knew this was wrong in the guide, admin update please,?
All Door triggers Red with blue stripe still 9 pin plug in top of fuse block.
Tach wire Black ,small plug going into the tach behind the radio, left hand plug
Door trigger for all doors (I knew this was wrong in the guide, admin update please,?
All Door triggers Red with blue stripe still 9 pin plug in top of fuse block.
11-13-2004, 09:57 PM
#4
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Id suggest no one use a test light when doing an alarm as most test lights are not computer safe and you can do damage to your car... I own a computer safe TL, but it costs well over 100 bucks- the price of nice digital multi meter.
11-14-2004, 12:35 AM
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I agree, any installer worth his salt does not have a high current test light in his or her tool box. I sell an alarm for xa & xb, but my instructions are very alarm specific. I have a 40+ year old voltmeter with a shunt on the the back of the meter,analog all the way, great for doorlock pulses. Bill
11-18-2004, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by scionspecialistvegas
I agree, any installer worth his salt does not have a high current test light in his or her tool box. I sell an alarm for xa & xb, but my instructions are very alarm specific. I have a 40+ year old voltmeter with a shunt on the the back of the meter,analog all the way, great for doorlock pulses. Bill
11-18-2004, 08:12 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by LeeD
Originally Posted by scionspecialistvegas
I agree, any installer worth his salt does not have a high current test light in his or her tool box. I sell an alarm for xa & xb, but my instructions are very alarm specific. I have a 40+ year old voltmeter with a shunt on the the back of the meter,analog all the way, great for doorlock pulses. Bill
03-22-2005, 02:08 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by phatcyclist
is there a way to do this and still keep the driver door as the first click on the alarm, and then a second click unlock all the doors?
03-22-2005, 07:15 AM
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"Neg trip door locks, Driver Priority can be run off blue/white(lock) and blue/black to yellow/green (Unlock) Driver priority is 5 wire reverse polarity."
Well I read this, and I makes me ask the question, what is meant by 5 wire reverse polarity? I can tap the inside door cylander if I HAD too, but if there was a wire in the left kick panel or something that I could just use as an unlock wire, then hit the remote twice, first for the driver door, then the rest of them.
Well I read this, and I makes me ask the question, what is meant by 5 wire reverse polarity? I can tap the inside door cylander if I HAD too, but if there was a wire in the left kick panel or something that I could just use as an unlock wire, then hit the remote twice, first for the driver door, then the rest of them.
03-22-2005, 07:41 PM
#11
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For the xA you would have to go into the doors to and and use a relay setup for single door unlock, program the keyless entry for two stage unlock,
on your xB it is just a matter of programming the alarm for 2 stage unlock.
Bill
on your xB it is just a matter of programming the alarm for 2 stage unlock.
Bill
Last edited by MR_LUV; 01-20-2019 at 09:56 PM. Reason: Awarded 10 Yr Badge
04-11-2005, 03:01 AM
#13
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Can I get some help with my alarm install? I can't seem to get the lock/unlock to function. I even bought a second alarm system of a different brand to see if the first was defective.
I followed the wiring explanation above. Do I need a relay circuit to operate the lock/unlock functions? My alarm system says it has the neg output for lock and unlock says -500mA. If I try and measure the lock/unlock wires while in operation(from the alarm system) they show a pos pulse.
I'm confused and still without keyless enrty and alarm.
HELP!!!!!!!
I followed the wiring explanation above. Do I need a relay circuit to operate the lock/unlock functions? My alarm system says it has the neg output for lock and unlock says -500mA. If I try and measure the lock/unlock wires while in operation(from the alarm system) they show a pos pulse.
I'm confused and still without keyless enrty and alarm.
HELP!!!!!!!
04-23-2005, 06:11 PM
#14
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Location: Florida
Posts: 7
wires for lock and unlock
the wires for the lock and unlock are in the 9 pin plug at the kick panel
with the plug unplugged and the 6 wire row towards you, the wires you need are the 2nd and 3rd wires in the row.
the brown wire is for - lock pulse
the blue is for - unlock pulse
also, i had to set my keyless entry for double 800ms unlock
read your keyless entry or alarm programming guide on how to do that.
the instructions above helped me somewhat on my install, but not all the info was 100%, the car i did was a '05 xA
this is my first post here
i have a 05 xB black cherry pearl
my girl has a 05 xA silver something
with the plug unplugged and the 6 wire row towards you, the wires you need are the 2nd and 3rd wires in the row.
the brown wire is for - lock pulse
the blue is for - unlock pulse
also, i had to set my keyless entry for double 800ms unlock
read your keyless entry or alarm programming guide on how to do that.
the instructions above helped me somewhat on my install, but not all the info was 100%, the car i did was a '05 xA
this is my first post here
i have a 05 xB black cherry pearl
my girl has a 05 xA silver something
10-27-2005, 03:28 AM
#16
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Location: Central Oregon
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Hi There all. This is my first post so no giggling. Just installed a Factory Security With Remote Keyless Entry in my 06 xA. I got the system from E-Bay for 1/3 $$$ from Scion.
Anyway...I have the complete Step-by-Step Install Guide. If you need it just PM me.
______
Anyway...I have the complete Step-by-Step Install Guide. If you need it just PM me.
______
Last edited by MR_LUV; 01-20-2019 at 10:03 PM.
10-24-2009, 11:30 PM
#17
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Posts: 3
Scion xA 06
Hi, I was wondering if someone could help me. Which is the starter wire? Which one is ignition 1 and ignition 2.
And there are two blue/white wires as shown, which one is 12volt constant and which is accessory?
Thanks
____________
And there are two blue/white wires as shown, which one is 12volt constant and which is accessory?
Thanks
____________
Last edited by MR_LUV; 01-20-2019 at 09:58 PM.
12-31-2009, 08:57 PM
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1
Hi,
First, I’d like to thank all those who contributed to the prior information in this thread and a few others where I gathered information. Thanks to all of you, I’ve successfully added a remote start / keyless entry system to my 04 Scion XA. The tip about finding the Door Lock Control Relay through the instrument cluster was great! I really didn’t want to tear apart the dash.
I still have a problem with the install and I’m hoping someone can help me. The remote start is working fine. But the door lock / unlock still isn’t working quite right.
Lock works fine. But the unlock requires me to hit the remote key twice, with a noticeable pause (2-3 secs) between each button push.
I assume I need to change the pulse signals but I’m not sure what the settings should be. I can use a trial and error approach but thought I’d check with the experts here first.
My system has 4 possible settings for the Lock/Unlock pulse
· 1secL/1secUL
· 3secL/3secUL
· 1secL/1secULx2
· 30secL/1secU
I assume 3rd option might work. Any suggestions?
Thanks
First, I’d like to thank all those who contributed to the prior information in this thread and a few others where I gathered information. Thanks to all of you, I’ve successfully added a remote start / keyless entry system to my 04 Scion XA. The tip about finding the Door Lock Control Relay through the instrument cluster was great! I really didn’t want to tear apart the dash.
I still have a problem with the install and I’m hoping someone can help me. The remote start is working fine. But the door lock / unlock still isn’t working quite right.
Lock works fine. But the unlock requires me to hit the remote key twice, with a noticeable pause (2-3 secs) between each button push.
I assume I need to change the pulse signals but I’m not sure what the settings should be. I can use a trial and error approach but thought I’d check with the experts here first.
My system has 4 possible settings for the Lock/Unlock pulse
· 1secL/1secUL
· 3secL/3secUL
· 1secL/1secULx2
· 30secL/1secU
I assume 3rd option might work. Any suggestions?
Thanks
07-17-2011, 05:11 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1
Step-by-Step Install Guide needed..
Hi There all. This is my first post so no giggling. Just installed aFactory Security With Remote Keyless Entry in my 06 XA. I got the system from E-Bay for 1/3 $$$ from Scion. Anyway...I have the complete step-by-step install guide. If you need it just shoot me an PM
I am having difficulty installing my alarm. can you please PM me the guide you used.
Joe
Last edited by MR_LUV; 01-20-2019 at 10:01 PM.
12-04-2011, 04:11 PM
#20
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 27
Thanks to all have contributed to this great thread! I am just doing some research into installing a remote start/keyless/alarm system I just bought.
First question I have is on an ignition harness, please see this thread:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=209959
Second question, is there a way to connect the rear defrost switch to an alarm system? I know most of the alarms have a programmable output. Any experience with tying into the rear defrost switch?
First question I have is on an ignition harness, please see this thread:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=209959
Second question, is there a way to connect the rear defrost switch to an alarm system? I know most of the alarms have a programmable output. Any experience with tying into the rear defrost switch?