trdbb92

too many pics

bBonVolks

You can never have too many pics!! I just started to sound deaden my xB. Thanks for the writeup!

Now that i think about it...i actually started with a part that wasnt in the how-to. lol But that tinny noise on the roof drove me crazy in the rain...not a problem anymore

HondAudio

I noticed you had a can of Great Stuff in one of the pics of the hatch. Where did you put that?

yigs114

First my backround:
I have been taking all kinds of things apart since i was little, vcrs and what not
I have been a computer repair technician for 3 years
Iam an hobbyist building whatever fancies me aka model airplanes and such
the tools at my despense: Woodworking tools found in a wood shop and electronic tools found in a computer shop
Alright i saw this how-to and decided to do it myself and i ordered this stuff 120 square feet of v1^2 to be exact. anyways i thought i could cover the entire car (doors, all 5, floor and ceiling and have left over) , well i could have... covered the entire car but it would not have been effective (as i found out after using it) Basically i tried to be cheap and save a couple bucks by buying v1^2 what happened was i started working on my car with my brother at around 11:30pm at night and finished my left 2 doors at 5:30am what this means was 1 layer outer skin 1 layer inner skin and 1 layer plastic skin= 6 hours. now before i get attacked about how slow i worked keep in mind this was my first time taking my door off plus i wanted EVERYTHING to be perfect. Then after i screwed everthing together i put in a bass cd and to my astonishment the left and right side doors vibrated the same, shut with the same clank that we are used to and music still was heard out of the car. i was like wtf no improvement? so i said wtvr ill sleep on it so i slept til 2pm. when i woke up i had realized that in this how-to he put 2 layers of v1se^2 which is 60 mils thick and what i had put on was 45mils thick(v1^2). whoops 120mils vs 45 BIG difference. so that night i attacked the doors again this time applying another 2 layers to the outer skin on the left doors. that came out to 3 outer 1 mid 1 plastic. then i put everything back together and it was time to test.Let me tell you this my initial reaction was one big Fing smile.. WOW. The door shut with a thud that sounded like heaven, wow. Vibrations u ask, reduced by half and guess what! my mirror vibrating to those heavy bass hits. Not at all. Period. overall those two doors took me and my bro about 10hours to complete. -jsut a quick note each door takes less and less time to comeplete. the total time til completion roughly 25 hours (4 days) waaaaaay to much time (what took the most time was applying the edead. i ended up doing all five doors and my rear quarter panels 3 layers outer skin. i have around 10 square feet extra that ill use for wtvr i find a use for. Today was the day i finished my last door the drivers side. took me about 3 hours from start to finish. when i was done my friend in his g35 rolled up into my driveway next to my car and i helped him edead his license plate....anyways....i said let me hear what your door sounds like compared to mine. Guess what my door sounded better haha lol. Now onto the tips for some ppl who are interested in this journey of exellence
TIPS:

All DOORS:the blue vapor barrier can be removed easily if you pull from the gap in black glue the effect is that the black glue sticks to the plastic and not the door (major pain but if it happens just cover it up with edead), save the blue plastic so that you can put it on later on top of the edead.
When putting on the plastic part of the front doors slide the top corner closest to the front of the car in first, also when attaching the plastic back on pay attenting to the yellow foam hitting whatever vapor barrier you have(it might have to be shaven down or removed)
Also mark off what you can see of the metal that the plastic doesnt cover up, that way when you put the plastic part of the door back on you wont see edead.
GENERAL TIP: use medical or any kind of a paper tape to cover your finger tips in order to save yourself from "paper cuts" from the foil backing and from jamming your finger into something in the door.
REAR QUARTER PANEL: you can easily access this thru the little door in your trunk
THICKNESS: Ive notice thru trial and error that 3 layers on the outskin of v1^2 works well, although putting it in is a b&!@h that totals 135 mils the total square feet of each layer of the outer skin is roughly7 square feet my suggestion go for the v1se^2 save a bunch of time and hassle.
~jon

goyogi

I've noticed in the two stickied threads on sound deadening that eDead is a popular product.

You may want to reconsider after reading this site.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Not to take away from the original posting. Great job with the write up.

airwalk

The pictures in this thread are great, thank you so much for posting them. It makes working with a car much easier when you don't have a shop manual...

goyogi: Thanks for sharing that site! I've been looking for a resource like that for awhile.

yigs114

if im not mistaken that website above is discussing v1 and v1se original and not the v1^2 or the v1se^2 since the original supposedly there is butyl in the product increasing the melting point of which i dont know exactly but around 160 anyways if i am wrong plz say so
~jon

Withaquicknes

Now thats tearing it up, I wouldnt ever think of doing anything that crazy. great job guys

mandos

That was done w/ the old asphalt based eDead.

Current eDead is butyl, no asphalt.

That page = outdated and pretty much causes misinformation now.

Ghost_1

Wish I had this walk thru before I gutted my car the first time. lol Great write up! once I can get enough money together I will be switching all my audio minus the headunit up for eD stuff. . . no money right now

IceCube

i just purchased 20 square feet of edead to do my doors and hatch. from looking at the pics on the doors do you try to cover the entire outer shell? and do you have to do the inner door skin for both the doors and hatch?

yigs114

covering the outer shell of your door will make the biggests difference since they are almost paper thin whereas the inner metal skin is a bit thicker i used 3 layers of edeadv1^2 and it works great. if you bought the v1se^2 then 2 layers should suffice on the outer skin of the door. btw when your done knock on the door from the outside and then knock on your front hood quarter panel (in thats the right term) and youll see a HUGE difference in feel and sound

IceCube

i just did my hatch with two layers of v1^2 and its a huge difference, no longer have the license plate raddle. now i just need to do around my gas cap to keep that from raddling....

Chiguy_2002

Good Information in this...one day I will deaden the xB...

JoeyXB

Thanks for all the pics and the detailed description I want to do mine sometime soon. This will help for sure

jbo

Extremely through my friend car does look nice too...Im assuming Alex was your salesman.

mandos

Duh

Winter

question before i start poppin pins... do they just come right out and then snap right back in? just figured id ask, i didn't see anything about new pins for like the hatch interior and whatnot.

HondAudio

I just took off the panel in the hatch yesterday. Even though I was being careful and using a panel puller, I broke 4 of the 13 pins. They're just brittle. However, I bought a bunch of screw-in replacement pins at Lowes, $1.04 for a 2 pack, and I needed 7 packs. They'll be easy to unscrew and pop out any time

mandos

Yeah, the ones that hold up the carpet in the hatch = very much so brittle. Shattered one and had to buy a replacement.