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Scion xA/xB 1st-Gen Suspension & Handling Coilovers, Shocks, Airbags, Swaybars...

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Old 03-15-2012, 06:26 AM   #21
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I replaced the Struts and springs and still have the clonking noise. My a-arm bushings are completely worn, rotted,broken,brittle and E.) all of the above. Gonna be replacing them this weekend with some Energy Suspension bushings this weekend. Hopefully this will fix the problem. I'll be looking at all possible bushings and tighten everything up. Hopefully this fixes the problem. Does anyone know how much dealerships would charge to take a look at this?
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:25 PM   #22
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I put on df210's about 5 days ago everything was rollin smooth with no noise then yesterday on my way home from class.. and these crappy ohio roads.. i started gettin a nasty clunk as i went over the bumps in the road.. i knew it couldnt be from my lowering springs cause it just started all of a sudden i though it was my cv shaft.. but i just went over my top strut bolts they seemed tight untill i went to my master bolt that howds the strut down..turns out it got loose from vibration and made an awful "clunk" but now its all good.. hope this helps the next person..

-Low and slow.
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:13 PM   #23
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One more thing to check is front brake pads jiggling about as you go over a bump.
I had this slight clunk until I retrofit new style brake pads shims from Toyota. It has since stopped clunking.
One way to check it for sure is to drive over a bump with brakes slightly applied.
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:13 PM   #24
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I have been following this post, as I also have the rattle on bumps. In retrospect, it seems like it started shortly after changing my brakes last summer. I was thinking it was struts, so replaced them last month. I also replaced the end link bushings last month. Actually the noise got more pronounced. I did notice when i brake slightly over bumps, there is no noise. So, I bought a new set of loaded calipers from RockAuto and put those on, only because I had a caliper that was sticking on one side, and the pads on the other side were squeaking. I still have the rattle and it goes away with braking. This rattle is beginning to drive me crazy......

I have read on other Toyota forums that a fix is to get the OEM anti rattle springs called a Fit Kit. Wondering if anyone has tried this.

Also, whats the process for shimming the pads?
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Old 04-21-2012, 01:47 PM   #25
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I am recently having the same problem. I could hit the deepest pothole and will not hear anything. but a slight hump or road bump and I hear a clunk from the front right. I recently replaced the sway bar link bushings to energy suspension, changed the brake pads, and changed the top strut mount and made it really tight, and still no luck. This is with stock setup. After checking almost everything that seems tight, what could possibly be causing this clunk?
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Old 04-27-2012, 03:18 PM   #26
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Default Rebuilt struts again

Okay, I replaced the boots and spring mount for my struts. Basically the thick rubber at the and of the boot was split and warn down where the top end of the spring is. Also, the metal mount is flat on 2 sides to fit the strut piston. The 2 pieces are indexed for installation. Bad news is it did not fix the clunk which is on right side. But, I can eliminate the struts as the problem. I called Raybestos and they warranted the caliper. Just got a new one from Rockauto yesterday. I will install the new caliper this weekend and see what happens. I did look at the replacement loaded caliper, and it seems solid. I did take pics of the strut rubbers, plate and piston,
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Strut Mount S.JPG (69.9 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg Piston s.jpg (72.8 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg Plate s.jpg (56.1 KB, 16 views)
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:08 PM   #27
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Default Fixed, It was the caliper mount

Okay, RR the loaded caliper on the right side. Once removed, the top bolt on the old "caliper to mount" was loose - I could wiggle it around. The bolts on the new caliper were solid. This fixed my rattle/clunk over bumps issue. Hope this helps others out.
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Old 05-22-2012, 01:59 PM   #28
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Default Same problem here...

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyseXb17 View Post
I put on df210's about 5 days ago everything was rollin smooth with no noise then yesterday on my way home from class.. and these crappy ohio roads.. i started gettin a nasty clunk as i went over the bumps in the road.. i knew it couldnt be from my lowering springs cause it just started all of a sudden i though it was my cv shaft.. but i just went over my top strut bolts they seemed tight untill i went to my master bolt that howds the strut down..turns out it got loose from vibration and made an awful "clunk" but now its all good.. hope this helps the next person..

-Low and slow.
I've had this same problem ever since switching to the KYB Echo struts. I'm running Tein springs. Taken off the struts and springs reseated them, made sure all was tight. I'm thinking maybe its the strut mounts? Also my car seems to be a little lower on the driver's side.

To me it almost seems like the spring isn't seated right on the mount. But when I take a look, its seated just fine.

Does anyone have a preference between Monroe or KYB strut mounts?
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Old 05-30-2012, 04:29 AM   #29
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I dont know if this would help or not, but I recently had an issue with my car (2005 xa with 130k miles) pulling hard to the left all the time and especially at highway speeds. It started a little while after I ran over an ice bump (about the size of a small log). Bent one of the rims but it didnt loose air and the tire didnt seem messed up. Had rim straightened and balanced which kinda fixed it for a little while but it always went back to pulling. I had alignments (nothing was out of spec), replaced tires, replaced wheels, replaced shocks and struts. Still pulling hard to the left. Using the process of elimination in that I replaced everything except the lower control arm, I decided to just buy a new passenger side lower control arm, install it and see what happens. It fixed it! No more pulling and I havent even had it aligned again yet. In looking at the lower control arm that came off of the car, I noticed that it did not look bent and compared to the new one in all measurements. I also noticed that the two chassis mounting points for the lower control arm are nothing more than rubber bushings, the front one running horizontal and the rearward one running vertical. Ive not read anything about it, but I believe that these rubber bushings can wear out and that the lower control arms should be replaced at about 100k whether it seems like it needs it or not. Im replacing the other side this next weekend and am expecting the car to ride and drive like it was brand new. Since it sounds like youve replaced everything else, replacing the lower control arms may fix it. If you do the replacing yourself, remember, once you pull out the bolts for the chassis mounting points, the front part of the arm must be pulled out toward the side of the car and not downward. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-30-2012, 03:54 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spawnconnery View Post
I dont know if this would help or not, but I recently had an issue with my car (2005 xa with 130k miles) pulling hard to the left all the time and especially at highway speeds. It started a little while after I ran over an ice bump (about the size of a small log). Bent one of the rims but it didnt loose air and the tire didnt seem messed up. Had rim straightened and balanced which kinda fixed it for a little while but it always went back to pulling. I had alignments (nothing was out of spec), replaced tires, replaced wheels, replaced shocks and struts. Still pulling hard to the left. Using the process of elimination in that I replaced everything except the lower control arm, I decided to just buy a new passenger side lower control arm, install it and see what happens. It fixed it! No more pulling and I havent even had it aligned again yet. In looking at the lower control arm that came off of the car, I noticed that it did not look bent and compared to the new one in all measurements. I also noticed that the two chassis mounting points for the lower control arm are nothing more than rubber bushings, the front one running horizontal and the rearward one running vertical. Ive not read anything about it, but I believe that these rubber bushings can wear out and that the lower control arms should be replaced at about 100k whether it seems like it needs it or not. Im replacing the other side this next weekend and am expecting the car to ride and drive like it was brand new. Since it sounds like youve replaced everything else, replacing the lower control arms may fix it. If you do the replacing yourself, remember, once you pull out the bolts for the chassis mounting points, the front part of the arm must be pulled out toward the side of the car and not downward. Hope this helps.

Is it possible to just replace the control arm bushings? From what your saying it seems like the arm itself is OK, just the bushings are worn.

Thanks
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:52 AM   #31
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Looking at the bushings it looks like the front one may be able to be pressed out pretty easily, but Im not sure what could be used to replace the rubber. I imagine that it would be pretty easy to find something to replace that bushing with something from another type of vehicle. The rearward bushing, the mounting bolt of which runs vertically, I dont think can be replaced. If the old one was removed, I cant think of where to look for something similar to replace it except for maybe a 99-04 mustang upper control arm bushing from the axle side. (Ive not seen one of these, it just seems like its has a similar function)

Ive kept the old lower control arms just in case I need to do some research on them. PM me if you have anything you want me to check.
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:58 AM   #32
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The xb1, xa, and toyota mr-s all use the same lower control arms, I am going to do the poly bushing swap for the xb
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:42 PM   #33
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i just wanted to add.

about 2 years or so ago i was hearing a knocking sound coming from the front pass side, couldn't figure it out til i went to change my pads.... yeah one of the caliper bolts fell out? could have been my fault for taking it somewhere in a hurry to have the oil changed and could have been sabatoge, possible it could have fallen out on its own... either way, that was the problem. i do all my own servicing regularly now and when i swap my tires i double check everything now
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:42 PM
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