glhboy

So I bought the Monroe 5601's, for my 06 xb, stock replacement, but I can't figure the hardware out on them. From all the installation threads I've seen, it shows that I remove the plastic boot from the old shock and put on the new one, but these 5601's already have a boot on them and come with rubber bump stops and gold washers. I can't remove the boot from the new one since it appears to be welded on. I have attached a picture.

The one on the right is the stock shock with boot removed, left is new shock.
Anyone???
I have one shock still off the car and need to finish this tonight.

bbszero

iTrader: (6)

put the new one in, then install the rubber piece, then the cup washer, then the bolt.

glhboy

So I don't use any old hardware/rubber stops?

When I put the new shock in(I took it back out)

I put a cup washer on the new shock, rubber bushing, then put the shock in the car, once the threads were through the hole at the top, I put a rubber bushing and another cup washer, then the nut, but when tightening the nut, it kept turning the dust boot on the shock itself.

I took the new shock back off and put the old one back on for now to make sure I was doing this right.

All the pictures I see you just use the old dust boot from the stock shock on the new ones.

tipc4life

iTrader: (2)

cazn i ask y did you go with them just a ?

bB2NER

If the new ones have the upper shroud welded on it must already have a bump stop so go ahead and install them. Be sure to use the right washers and rubber bushings tho.
Might I ask why you didn't do the fronts also? It really does improve the ride.

burstaneurysm

Just pop the rubber bushing on top and put em in. You reuse the hardware inside the car, rubber and washer.

Those have integrated dust shields, no need to swap em.

Babe

I have the same problem.

you get 2 large washers and 2 rubber things and one nut

one side of the rubber thingy is larger than the other side, which end is up or visa versa...

the dust cover is on the new shock and you can't remove it.

anyone really know this one

whatevertrick

just got done doing this myself. I put new metal washer on then the new rubber washer with the smaller end to the body of the box. then lowered the box down and guided the smaller part of the rubber into the center of the hole. the smaller part of the rubber washer is almost the same size the the hole on the body of the box. then i put the rubber washer on with the smaller part to the body of the box, metal washer and the nut. i had to hold the metal dust boot to tighten down the nut until i could fit a 1/4" wrench to hold the piston shaft from turning. hope this helps

biancoxb

whatevertrick, is it normal to hear a clanking noise coming from the rear shocks when going over the harsher bumps? I installed them the same way, but I think the first bottom metal washer may be clanking on the shock itself. I was debating if I should remove it, but I am not too sure if it is creating the sound or could be something else. I checked all bolts and they are all torqued tight.

joeyV

glhboy et'al,

Nice posts. Two years later and I am having the same problem on my 06 Box and found your thread post-installation. So my trouble shooting resulted in the decision to use the original Scion hardware with the new Monroe, except for the new nut that came with the Monroe shocks.

Using glhboy's photo above as reference - Before installation I measured the distance from the top end of the Monroe to where the Monroe hardware and the original hardware would end...measurements were the same. The original metal cap will not bottom out on the Monroe shock upper sleave due to the stop that is in place (sorry if terminology is wrong).

My concern with the Monroe hardware was the smaller diameter of their rubber grommets, especially on the underside of the mounting plate (again, terminology). I figure if Scion wanted a smaller foot print for the rubber grommet they would have designed it that way.

whatevertrick - I too had problems tightening the new nut as the whole spindle turned. I resolved this by running the nut down the threads and then back off prior to installation. This seemed to have smoothed the way but not completely. I still had to hold the top of the spindle in place with adjustable pliers while I used a box end wrench to tighten it down. All is good.

Anyway, this is my wife's ride and it is stock height so there was no need to raise the vehicle to change the shocks. This had to be the easiest shock replacement I have ever done, once the troubleshooting was over.