implayaz9

so the OTG as well as cusco helps us adjust the camber on our cars?.. if i have tein ss would the cusco pillow mounts work on those coils?

rebelMan

I know this is old, but since the last time i've read this post i've installed the Cusco plates (this morning actually) and i just wanted to let you know that in my case, i can't use camber bolts to adjust my camber (that i know of). I'm on air via Easystreet Air Struts up front and they give like 1~2 degrees of positive camber. The way that the struts are made they push the front disc's out more then stocks (giving postive camber). So for us on air with the ES struts the easiest way for us to get rid of the positive camber is the Cusco's. I have mine set as negative as possible and i probably only have -1 degree if i'm lucky. I'm getting an alignment ASAP so i'll know how much for sure then.

No offense or anything, i just felt that i should put this information out there since i've learned this. I'm pretty sure that the reason you can't use the camber adjusting bolts on the ES struts is because the area i highlighted in red:


The hole for the bolt to go through and hold the knuckle thing from the disc brake is closer to the body of the strut (cylinder part) then the stock struts. Sorry if that doesn't make sense, i can't explain it any better . But the nuckle from the disc brakes that attaches to the struts is right up against the Easystreet air-strut's cylinder body, so there's no room for adjustment (i guess you could give it more positive lol). Make sense?

Boxer_Rebellion

Now that this thread is ressurected...

Has anyone here on SL used the Eibach camber bolts to get 1.5 degrees of negative camber? I have some rubbing issues but don't need three degrees, just a tad should do me.

implayaz9

,,

xdorkx

SO. how does one do the toe out bit? i didnt see that covered here. .... thx

eXciteBox

the toe-out for the rear is covered when you put the OneTonGarage shims on. they are made with the camber and toe correction built in. all you have to do is make sure the left one goes on the left and the right one goes on the right.

to answer implayaz9's question you can use the cusco camber plates for the front suspension with most if not all coilover set-ups, you will need to have the sleeve nut re-threaded to accept the coilover's threads. you may need to use more or less spacers too to avoid knocking or other problems

xdorkx

Thanks for the reply, so basically if i got onetongarage shims i could expect decent tire life still and not 100% wear in half the time?
Thanks

eXciteBox

the tires wear pretty well with the OTG camber plates. the wear is still noticable after a while, but i have them on my daily driven showcar and had no problems.

oBnoXious_XB

so no pics of the eibach bolts on? wanna run em on mine but dont know if it will be too much for daily.

Kodokan_4

My alignment mechanic put camber bolts on my xA, and changed the front camber from neg 0.25 to 1.75 degrees.

It's like driving a different car, now.

-Pete

eXciteBox

Just make sure you get a front end alignment if you mess with the front camber. You will DESTROY your tires if you don't.

JerkzXb

good info

hyrev

Selling for about 140 USD, not sure on the brand, just some one on Yahoo auctions japan.

http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g53407109

proctorsilex

how much toe out are you guys running with how much negative camber in the front?
i don't care about the appearance. i want more performance for autocrossing, but not so much that my tires wear ridiculously.

SPC makes a camber and caster gauge that you can buy from jegs and summit racing. i bought it from summit who is supposed to be selling it for $124, but they charged $150. have to torture them about it.
i was uncertain whether the price would be worth it. after seeing it, i think so. it can measure on non-level ground.

does anyone know of any corrective rear shims?
i saw a set on fleabay, but i am not sure how good it is. i never hit anything in the rear, but the last time i had it aligned the tech said that it was off and they didn't have any shims.

thanks

Maicca

Got to get me some of those OTG spacers + camber plates.

Guest

I have them available at www.TheScionCentral.com !!!! :D :D :D

172

sorry to dig this out again,but what are the benefits of getting the rear camber to -3??
other than LOOKS,CLEARS wide offset wheels etc...
I wan to know if those going tracking need so much camber at the rear?
what do our FWD need? more camber on front to reduce understeer or increase the already bad understeer by increasing more camber at the rear?

put looks aside lets talk about handling benefits.

proctorsilex

I went to -1.5 front and -1 rear back when I had been tracking my xA. I had KSport coilovers with 4Kg front springs (KSport sucks hard. not recommended) and a rear anti-sway bar. With street tires, it drove ok and tended to understeer. With R compounds, the car oversteered far too easily such that I could not go fast in any autocross slalom. More negative camber in the rear probably would have helped go from oversteer to neutral with the R compound tires.

I do not recommend going to any extreme alignment on the xA/xB for handling purposes because you will eat up tires with little handling in return. These cars and their aftermarket were really not designed for significant handling performance. If you want better handling, go for some mild suspension mods and mild alignment settings (talk to your alignment shop). Any more than that and you will be spending a lot of time and money for a car that will still get blown away by a Civic crap can in the twisties

1epoXyBox

Just curious, why do you dislike the ksports, and what other brand do you like better that you have tried. I have the ksports now. I like them, but have not been able to compare them to anything else.

proctorsilex

not compliant enough. too hard for PA roads which made it uncomfortable and loud to drive. the travel is way too short (3.5" total? i barely remember. stock is at least twice that). the stiffness and short travel on rough roads also meant that the wheels would lose road contact at times which is rather perturbing. if your roads are smooth, then they would handle well and not be too uncomfortable. roads in PA, MD, and DE are not smooth enough for ksports in my opinion.

they also rusted a lot within a couple of months. right through the chromed parts and the painted parts. the ksports are too weak to handle the liberal use of salt here. the aluminum seemed rather soft and they had labels saying that they were not for street or racing use: show purposes only. i felt concerned about safety and whether they would last a year.

i read stories about ksport's seals breaking and dumping oil within a year. i met a man at the track who said that the seals broke on his and they did leak oil. he hated them and moved on to something else.

depends on what you want. if i still cared about performance, i would probably force myself to accept that the xa is not going to beat most cars (with equally skilled drivers, of course) then try to get a balance of handling, reliability, and DD comfort. i would use 1-2" lower springs with about 20% more stiffness (my progress springs are good enough) mated to koni yellow (those RUST easily, btw) and a rear anti-sway bar (got a progress one that came with the springs).
i also have a front strut bar and the front and rear tanabe/sustec under braces. you will probably not notice much with them unless you have high spring rates like the ksports.

since i care not for performance in the xa these days and i NEED dampers, i will probably try some tokico HP along with the progress springs, bar, and braces (could not sell them for enough to be worthwhile so why not use them).

good luck.